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Bordeaux 2006: The Right Bank
Bordeaux 2006
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St Emilion & Pomerol
The view of the right bank afforded by the wines presented at the annual UGC tasting is akin to tunnel vision; from St Emilion, at approximately 5400 hectares the most sizeable of the major appellations of Bordeaux, there are never more than two handfuls of wines. And with so many wines available to taste on the day, it is likely that not even this small sample will be exhausted; it is impossible to taste everything. And from Pomerol, admittedly a much smaller region, the number of wines presented is even smaller.
It is thus not wise to generalise about entire appellations based on such small tastings, although of course this is just as true of my notes for Pauillac, St Julien, Graves or any other Bordeaux commune as for these. I should limit our comments to the wines on show. Starting with those from St Emilion, these were a mixed bunch, although some were very good, and with some that I found less appealing I think it was largely a matter of style rather than effort. I enjoyed the wines of Canon-la-Gaffelière, Figeac and Troplong-Mondot more than many others; these wines certainly represent a variety of St Emilion styles, and I find it impossible to pick one out that I would choose to drink over any other. I think it would depend very much what mood I was in on the day. With Larcis Ducasse and Pavie-Macquin, however, I found the style too hard and extracted, but I am sure there are many palates out there who will just love these wines.
With Pomerol the prime cut is more easily seen; here La Conseillante was without doubt the success of the tasting, a wine with substance and depth, but also elegance and balance. Clinet was also excellent, although without that extra dimension that pushed La Conseillante to the fore in this arena. Most surprising wine, however, was Gazin, which I rated poorly in April 2007. That barrel sample, which I slighted with an underwhelming score of 14-15, bore no resemblance to the wine tasted here, which although not quite of the quality provided by La Conseillante and Clinet, certainly trumped the remaining wines presented on the day.
The notes and scores presented below are as written at the UGC tasting, and as usual I present the wines from St Emilion first, before moving on to Pomerol. (4/11/08)
The Right Bank 2006: Tasting Notes
Tasted at the UGC de
Bordeaux tasting in October 2008. Click
to locate stockists.
Chateau Canon 2006: This has a
dark and characterful nose, with deep, pastille-like fruit, although I should
stress it has a savoury rather than sweet feel to it. A supple palate, with good
substance, and a nice presence of fruit. The tannins are nicely judged, balanced
but firm, with a good acid backbone. This holds together rather well. Very good. 16.5+/20
Chateau Canon-la-Gaffelière 2006:
Dark and almost minty fruit here, with a little touch of dark chocolate. It
shows more depth and substance than Canon, with a huge presence of soft, ripe
fruit. It has a little edge of jamminess, and underneath a huge amount of
tannin, but it is well covered by all that fruit and texture. It culminates in a
creamy finish. This has excellent potential. 17.5+/20
Chateau Figeac 2006: Lots of
fruit on the nose here, with a deep and exotic character, with hints of spiced
plums. A very appealing palate, supple and elegant, reflecting the more gravelly
terroir at this end of the appellation perhaps. But there is substance
too, and a good, firm, tannic backbone. I think this has a fine, classic
composition and is one that will do well in the cellar. 17.5+/20
Clos Fourtet 2006: This
has ripe damsons and plums on the nose, washed with the aromas of new oak. A
supple entry, leaner and harder on the midpalate than this beginning suggests
though. Quite ripe tannins, although with a little chalk, and plenty of grip.
Quite an exotic edge to the fruit. This is an interesting, good wine. 16+/20
Chateau Grand Mayne 2006:
Bright fruit on the nose here, rather meaty in character, with plums and new
oak. Broad but supple and attractive on entry, leaner and tannic through the
midpalate. Good fruit flavour. Shows a little more creaminess later, rather
gentle, the tannins and acidity seem very detached, diffuse, but it has some
style and I think with time this could come good. 16+/20
Chateau Larcis Ducasse 2006:
As might be expected with Larcis-Ducasse a flashy nose, showing dense fruit and
lashings of oak. Supple and creamy on entry, but a more gentle and broad
midpalate. A lot of extract and tannin in evidence here, and not so much fruit
to match. It doesn't come together sufficiently for me, and it culminates in a
big, dense, dry tannic finish. A bit overdone for my tastes, although I think
some love the style. 15.5/20
Chateau Larmande 2006:
Delicious nutty oak here, with smoky nuances, and plenty of deep, fruitcakey,
plummy fruit. Nice flesh on the palate, supple and well composed, with a gentle
texture and a slightly nutty finish. Ripe tannins, nicely put together, not
overworked. Good. 16+/20
Chateau Pavie-Macquin 2006:
A slightly exotic nose here, rather stony yet perfumed. A dry and reserved
palate follows, showing little in the way of sweetness or flesh. Lots of tannic
grip though, with a dry, cigar ash feel and heavy extract. A big meaty wine,
with just moderate fruit. Over-worked for my palate, with too much focus on
extraction. 15.5+/20
Chateau Troplong-Mondot 2006:
Rather a restrained style on the nose, although there are appealing notes of
creamy, vanilla-tinged fresh fruits. Gentle, composed, supple texture on the
palate, smoky tannins, overall very well judged. Ripe, cigar-tinged tannic
finish. This is very nicely done and should drink very well with time. 17.5+/20
Chateau Beauregard 2006:
Appealing, spiced, plummy Merlot nose, overall an expressive but gently composed
wine. On entry very gentle, rather lean and stony in style, although there is a
pleasant balance of supple flesh and tannins. Perhaps a touch firmer in the
midpalate, and a hard, bare-structured finish. 15.5+/20
Chateau Clinet 2006: A very
attractive and evocative wine here, showing a great depth of spiced, savoury
fruit. A fine style evident on entry, supple, very balanced and elegant, with
ripe, well-covered tannins. Delicious, nutty, exotic flavours, on a fresh and
lively palate. This is very well composed. A very good wine indeed. 18/20
Chateau La Conseillante 2006:
In this vintage La Conseillante has a just beautiful nose, with vibrant red plum
fruit, a savoury character, and well judged, integrated oak. The palate is
lovely, supple, composed and elegant, with very stylish ripe tannins, covered by
raspberry, plum and vanilla flavours. Delicious, with a fine, savoury grip at the
finish. This is a very complete and enticing wine, and was certainly top wine of
the day. 18.5+/20
Chateau Gazin 2006: When I
tasted this wine in April 2007 it did not appeal; today it seems totally
different. It has more subtle fruit on the nose than some of the other Pomerols,
with more nutty oak evident. The palate is gentle at first, but then reveals a
more structured character, showing lots of big tannins. Nevertheless it is well
judged, more grippy than some other wines, with appealing bright flavour. Much
better than I expected. 17+/20
Chateau Petit Village 2006:
An interesting nose here, a little nutty, but with dry, savoury and slightly
dusty fruit alongside. The wine starts off in a supple fashion, with rather
restrained fruit thereafter. This has rather an austere style, certainly not a
flashy one. It has less character than some other wines of the appellation. From
seeming overly plump and soft in April 2007, this now seems to have gone in the
other direction. 15.5+/20
Chateau La Pointe 2006: Warm fruit here, nutty oak, otherwise this
isn't really a very expressive wine on the nose. It has a very lean entry, and a
firm character thereafter, lacking flesh. It seems to be all structure and
tannin, and shows little to round off its hard edges. This doesn't possess the
charm of some of the other wines. 13+/20
