Chateau Montrose (St-Estèphe) 1983: A darker, treacle coloured wine. Black fruit on the nose, with a touch of rubber and marked, gravelly undertones. This wine is very different - probably the St-Estèphe. A slim, elegant, black fruit palate. Peppery notes, good balance, altogether a lovely wine. 17/20

Chateau Prieuré-Lichine (Margaux) 1983: A mahogany red hue, like all the wines in this flight. A ripe, raisined, macerated fruit nose, with some slightly floral, rose-petal notes. There is pleasant fruit on the palate, with very soft, integrated tannins. Good texture, balancing acidity and a soft creamy finish. Drinking very well. 16.5/20

Chateau d'Angludet (Margaux) 1983: Mahogany-red. A rich, earthy, slightly dusty nose, which immediately suggests d'Angludet. It later opens out to reveal fat, rich fruit with a touch of pencil lead. Lots of tannin on the palate, with slightly prominent acidity. Full bodied, with good fruit. This wine is lovely, and although it needs a little more time to come together completely it is drinking beautifully now. 17+/20

Chateau du Tertre (Margaux) 1983: Mahogany-red. A nose of prunes, raisins and toffee. Another wine with a floral element to the bouquet. Ripe fruit on the palate, with more toffee. Still a little tannic, particularly towards the finish, although they are well on the way towards full integration. Nice creamy texture. 17+/20

Chateau Duhart Milon (Pauillac) 1983: This wine has a slightly darker red-mahogany hue, setting it apart from the others a little. The nose is more elegant than the others, with some stony, mineral notes, and later some earthy notes. The palate is fairly big and creamy. There are good, integrated tannins, attractive fruit, and some hot spices towards the finish. Good length. 16+/20

Chateau Grand-Puy-Lacoste (Pauillac) 1983: A much lighter, red-amber wine. A ripe, fruit-laden nose, with aromas of toffee and roast beef. A good creamy texture on the palate, toffee and spice. Good tannins, nicely balanced. More pepper and spice on the finish. 16/20

Chateau Pichon-Lalande (Pauillac) 1983: A moderately intense mahogany-purple hue. A superb, classic, smoky, pencil lead mature claret nose that sings Pichon-Lalande. The palate is fruit-laden, with toffee notes and a superbly textured, creamy body. The tannins are integrating and there is lovely, balanced acidity. Finishes beautifully, with length. Absolutely lovely wine. 18/20

Chateau Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 1983: Another moderately intense mahogany wine. A ripe berry fruit nose, opening up to reveal some smoky complexity. A little austere on the palate, with some unintegrated tannins and obvious acidity. Oriental spices and good fruit, with a creamy texture. Some length. 17.5+/20

Chateau Lafite-Rothschild (Pauillac) 1983: This wine has a very dark, treacle-toffee mahogany hue. It is very backward still, but opens out to reveal some rich fruit aromas with time in the glass. It has tannins which, although softening, still dominate the palate. A little backward fruit and spice. Finishes with a show of tannins, and an amazing length that goes on and on. It has to be one of the first growths. 18.5/20

Chateau Latour (Pauillac) 1983: A moderately rich looking, purple wine. Another classic, mature claret nose. The palate has intense, rich fruit. A lovely creamy texture, with a touch of vanillin oak. A pleasant, softly tannic backbone. Superb balance, good peppery fruit on the finish. Gorgeous length. A first growth. 18.5/20