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Bordeaux 2008: St Emilion
Bordeaux 2008
En primeur
St Emilion
Day three of tasting the 2008 vintage started with a journey from my temporary residence in the Northern Médoc across to Libourne for a day of St Emilion and Pomerol. The day kicked off with a tasting of the Moueix portfolio, largely Pomerols but also a handful of St Emilions, which as usual was hosted in their offices which nestle in amongst the riverside warehouses on the Quai du Prioraut. I must admit I often erroneously think of the right bank appellations as being on the right bank of the Gironde, but of course we are much further upstream of that, and the quai sits on the Dordogne, here a well-sized river but nothing like the gigantic estuary which, at its widest, is about seven miles from one bank to the other. The Moueix tasting set a good benchmark for the day; a mix of St Emilions and Pomerols, with some wines of very high quality indeed. The tastings thereafter continued very much in the same vein, the day very much a blend of the two appellations which are very closely related. Indeed, at a number of estates, including Michel Rolland's Le Bon Pasteur, Ausone, Angélus and of course at the Moueix tasting, wines from both communes (and sometimes wines from much further afield) were often lined up together for tasting.
As
far as St Emilion is concerned it was for me undoubtedly
Cheval Blanc
(pictured left) that
set the tone; the second wine Petit Cheval was just fabulous, full of enticing
aromatics and very well composed on the palate, and I wondered momentarily how it
might be
bettered by the grand vin, although fans of the estate will naturally be
pleased to learn that I was not disappointed. Nor was I disappointed when I was
summoned into the kitchen in order to have my first taste of 2008 Yquem, but more of that in my Sauternes write-up.
Back to Cheval-Blanc, which displayed all the charm of the
appellation at its best, whereas Ausone,
the last wine tasted on the day, seemed to show
more power. In between the two visits I sampled many of the other wines of the
commune at the UGC tasting hosted by Figeac, where a good number showed very well indeed. Figeac
itself showed great finesse in an elegant, vibrant, red fruit style;
stylistically the wine was out on a limb, but that didn't stop it from being
delicious. Otherwise the vintage seems to have produced a broad swathe of very
good wines characterised by rich fruit aromas, particularly plum and cherry,
with good density on the palate. There are too many to discuss individually, as
in this commune (as in others) I seemed to taste much more widely than I did
last year, but Angélus, Troplong-Mondot, Canon-la-Gaffelière and, perhaps
somewhat unexpected, Beau-Séjour Bécot are worthy of specific mention.
All my notes are presented below in alphabetical order. I did consider presenting them in classification order, the premier grand cru classé estates first, followed by grand cru classé, grand cru and so on. But I decided the approach would be pointless, as a consequence of the recent classification saga that has beset the appellation during recent years. Which classification would I use? The 2006 listing which has been formally declared void in the French Court of Appeal in March 2009, and yet was still widely referred to whenever a member of my group asked for clarification as to an estate's ranking, or the 1996 classification which has been reinstated and is valid up until the 2009 vintage, but which I didn't hear cited once during the week? I think it is easier sticking to the alphabet; at least that is something I suspect the Libournais can agree on.
Finally, I think it would be inappropriate to continue without making some mention, once again, of prices. In a bold and very early move, Hubert de Boüard de Laforest released Angélus the Monday following the primeurs week at a price close to that of 2004. Although unprecedented it was entirely expected, as the rumour was all over Bordeaux during primeurs week; even the waiter in the café below Ausone in St Emilion knew what Boüard was up to. It seems, however, that it was too early and too bold a move for many of his fellow proprietors, as the week that has since passed has been one of masterly inactivity on the Bordeaux place. Or perhaps they have been quietly watching the sales of the wine with interest, or rather with disappointment, as chatter suggests it has not sold well, even with a fair (although hardly earth-shattering) reduction in price. Will the rest of Bordeaux release at an even lower price, to encourage sales? Some will I suppose, but in small quantities I suspect, to test the market, raising the price in subsequent tranches. Others will aim to release at a high price, with no real intention to sell until the economy is a little fitter. I also suspect that, despite the lead already taken, some properties may still be tempted to hold on until Parker's scores are published, especially if sales look so sluggish anyway. In the meantime, the attention of consumers - who seem to be far more interested in discussing prices than the quality of the wines if the threads posted on the leading internet forums are any indicator - will turn towards other things, other regions and indeed other wines. It's time for the Bordelais to wake up and follow the lead of Angélus in timing, and preferably to exceed Boüard's efforts in lowering the price.
I have included not only notes for wines tasted in Bordeaux in April, but also wines from the Cercle Rive Droite tasting held in London shortly beforehand. (15/4/09)
St Emilion 2008: Tasting Notes
Tasted in London and Bordeaux in March & April 2009. Click
to locate stockists.
Chateau Angélus 2008: This is
58% Merlot and 42% Cabernet Franc. Big smoky fruit, intense,
aromatic, spicy and complex. Rich, dense, defined but creamy on the palate,
although it also has a fine, stylish definition to it. Quite a firm substance,
lots of texture, attractive weight in the mouth, very finely balanced, with lots
of ripe substance. A very strong wine indeed, which has excellent potential for
the future. 18-19+/20
Chateau Ausone 2008: The
overall yield at Ausone was just 27 hl/ha, and the grand vin is 55%
Cabernet Franc and 45% Merlot. Pure, bright and smoky on the nose, perhaps just
a touch of meaty richness, but certainly fabulously enticing. Intense, creamy,
pure, concentrated and yet also perfumed on the palate, this has a beautifully
svelte and creamy tannic structure. There is a fresh backbone of acidity,
brilliant depth, broad and elegant. Delicious, layered, pure, this has finesse
but also a lot of power in this vintage. Excellent potential. 18.5-19.5+/20
La Chapelle d'Ausone 2008: This is the second wine of
Ausone,
produced from a selection made in the vineyard. Yields are as for the grand vin,
and the blend here is 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. The wine has an
impressive smoky depth, fresh and pure and yet also deep. Creamy and appealing
on the palate, great style, with fruit complexity, ripe tannins and impressive
substance. Good acidity too. This is a fine second wine. 17-18+/20
Clos des Baies 2008: Something of a micro-cuvée, with just five
barrels from this tiny St Emilion property. Lovely sweet and aromatic fruit on
the nose, with pure and vibrant blackberries. Rich and sweet on the palate,
rounded and fleshy, with a good style of fruit. There is a slightly confected
edge to it but not enough to distract. Fine and lifted, well polished, and
likely to drink soon such is its plush nature. Good. 16.5-17.5+/20
Chateau Balestard la Tonnelle 2008: Dark, dense plummy fruit here,
with a sweet entry onto the palate. Suddenly it reveals firm zippy acidity in
the midpalate, with the tannins less apparent. Intense, plum cream character,
with lots of structure evident eventually. Concentrated, with a good, lively
finish. 16-17+/20
Chateau Barde-Haut 2008: An intense, fruit-rich nose, full of ripe,
squashed plums, blackberries and rich cassis. A little prune, balsamic too. The
palate is full, creamy, dense cherry, with a little soupiness to it. Lots of
substance, lots of tannin too.
A very extracted style. 14-15+/20
Chateau Beau-Séjour-Bécot
2008: Bright character, with damson, cranberry and sloe berry fruit. A nice
entry, harmonious, with lovely, ripe, gently polished grip underneath. Stylish
and composed, rich but with firm acids and grip. Lots of delicious and appealing
character here. 17-18+/20
Chateau Bélair-Monange 2008:
Previously known as Belair, the Moueix family acquired full ownership of this
property in 2008, and have renamed it in honour of Anne-Adèle Monange, Jean
Moueix's wife (and thus Jean-Pierre's and Christian's mother and grandmother
respectively). Rather muted fruit on the nose, a little hot perhaps, but there
is a nice creaminess on entry. There is texture here, good balance, and a firm
structure. Good acidity, slightly bitter substance, but there is certainly some
good potential here. 16-17+/20
Chateau Bellevue 2008: This
property is virtually opposite Angélus, and is under the direction of Hubert de
Boüard de Laforest. This is 98% Merlot, with a 2% dash of Cabernet Franc. Smoky
fruit, bright plum character. Fresh and creamy, a little flashy, but rather
brawny too, with a firm core of acidity. Ripe tannins, very firm structure, quite
extracted, but it has potential. 16-17+/20
Chateau Berliquet 2008: A slightly crystalline character to the black
and plummy fruits on the nose here, with a cokey-charcoaly edge. Rich on entry,
dense and creamy, with substantial tannins. Ripe, smoothly polished, with lots
of grip and extract here. On top, though, it is soft and creamy, underneath a
good backbone and acidity. 16-17+/20
Chateau Canon-la-Gaffelière 2008:
Dense fruit on the nose here, roasted meat and baked blackberry fruit; this is
rich and intense, and rather less bright and lifted than many other wines tasted
here. On the palate, though, it has a smoothly polished texture. The ripe
tannins are well covered, so although it has a firm and a slightly chewy
extraction it all sits quite well together. Good but not forceful acidity. This
has great potential.
17.5-18.5+/20
Chateau Cap de Moulin 2008: Attractive, perfumed, fruit-rich nose.
Aromatic, sweet, expressive, slightly meaty in character too. Very straight on
the palate, although it seems a touch flat in the middle at first, it does then
show a good substance and a juicy, fruity texture. This is back up by plenty of
grip and firm acids, and a lovely dark fruit finish. Fresh, defined, this could
in fact be very good. 16.5-17.5
Chateau Cheval Blanc 2008:
Deep, meaty, smoky, intense and complex. Brilliantly perfumed and aromatic,
fabulous purity and fine, lifted aromas. The palate comes on in the same vein;
huge substance, a smoky-meaty depth of fruit, bright, linear and defined
structure. Broad, rich and dense, with a profound backbone of fine tannins. This
has amazing style and is one of my favourites of the vintage without doubt. This
will be a truly great wine. 18.5-19.5+/20
Le Petit Cheval 2008: This, the second wine of
Cheval Blanc, has returned to its usual Merlot dominated composition
this year, with 60% of that variety and 40% Cabernet Franc. A bright nose,
beautifully aromatic, complex, layered and impressive. And this is the second
wine? Aromatically it is punching way above its weight. The palate has freshness, a reserved texture, but underneath a lot of
substance. Very high quality wine here; beautiful cottony tannins, and a great
finish. Excellent potential. 18-19+/20
Chateau La Commanderie 2008: An intense, ripe fruit nose here, rather
dark and concentrated. Soft, ripe and dark on the palate, with subtle acidity.
Burnt fruit character, notes of coffee, creamy and grippy. This is an
interesting wine with a better sense of balance than I expected from the nose. 15.5-16.5+/20
Chateau Couspade 2008: Dark, smoky meat, but still fresh. An elegant
start to the palate, quite open and lifted, and then a nice freshness through
the middle. Firm fruit, lots of grip and acid, a slightly sappy style, with good
juicy fruit. A little creamy too, I notice on a second taste. Nicely styled.
16-17+/20
Chateau Dassault 2008: Lovely delineated fruit here on the palate,
fresh and stylish. Fresh, sweet, slightly creamy but linear on the palate, well
defined, almost crisp. Fine perfumed fruit sweetness, really very fresh, and an
attractive open style. Lots of red, stony character, ripe, culminating in a
sappy, juicy, but tannin-infused finish. Very good potential here. 16-17+/20
Chateau Daugay 2008: This is made with consultation from Hubert de
Boüard, and is 65% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Franc and 7% Cabernet Sauvignon. An
attractive perfume here, with plump, plummy fruit. Somewhat leaner than some wines
on the palate, some flesh though, polished stone too. A good weight of ripe
tannin, and firm acidity. A touch chewy. A nicely styled wine which might fatten
out a little. 15.5-16.5+/20
Chateau La Dominique 2008: Sweet and creamy confit fruit on the nose,
and the same character on the palate. Quite a cool start, with good stony fruit
in the midpalate, and a moderate sense of cream. There is also a little
juiciness at the edge. Fresh, open, accessible, this has really good potential I
think. 16-17+/20
Chateau Figeac 2008: A
beautiful purity of fruit is immediately apparent here, dark fruits, but bright
and crystalline in character. There are redder elements too; this is very
stylish. Very elegant on the palate, fresh with pure red and black berry fruits.
Broad, defined, with a sweet character at the core, and firm and ripe tannins. A
fine acidity provides definition. This has wonderful style and is clearly a
success with great potential. 17.5-18.5+/20
Chateau Fleur Cardinale 2008: Rather reserved character on the nose, with some
attractive red fruits. The structure is a little soft, although there is fresh
midpalate acidity and there is a little grip too. Lots of cherry fruit, slightly
bitter, with relatively low acidity and a ripe, well-extracted style overall.
14.5-15.5+/20
Chateau Fonbel 2008: A Vauthier property. In this vintage this has 65%
Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot and 5% Carmenere. The yield was
43 hl/ha. It has overtly sweet, toasty oak on the nose. The palate shows good
fruit though, with rich and dark plum character. Broad, textured, deeply
structured, with plenty of fine acidity. Sweet, super-ripe, quite well
extracted, but showing a worthy substance, this certainly has potential. 15.5-16.5+/20
Clos Fourtet 2008: This
has a very dark colour, and very dark although rather reticent fruit on the
nose, with a slightly meaty, brawny character. But on the palate it has a pure,
creamy and cool start, then a broader, creamy but defined middle. Lots of
extracted tannin, lots of acidity too, and a huge structure overall. It borders
on over-worked; it will be interesting to see what happens with some barrel age
though;
I think it could be very good indeed. 17-18+?/20
Chateau Grand Mayne 2008:
Bright black fruit and plum nose here, with fresh character. Lifted,
crystalline, although very ripe and plump in character. A fresh entry and leaner
midpalate, a nicely polished stony texture, fresh fruit, with a firmer tannic
and acid structure. Lots of grip towards the finish. Certainly attractive, and
with potential too. 16.5-17.5+/20
Chateau La Gaffelière 2008:
Not so expressive as some, with dark and charcoaly fruit. Supple on entry, with
a firmer midpalate, this is quite well composed. A good weight, rounded and rich
rather than creamy, with a rather stony substance to it. Structured, with firm
tannins dominating the midpalate, but rounded off with a nice, sappy finish. Dry
but ripe grip, substantial and tannic. Good potential here. 16-17+/20
Chateau Haut-Simard 2008: A Vauthier property, harvested at 47 hl/ha,
with 65% Merlot and 35% Cabernet Franc. Intense and creamy fruit on the nose, bright
and slightly crystalline. Smoky too. Purity with creamy richness on the palate,
rich, broad and highly textured. Notes of blackberry cream, a lot of tannic
backbone, with ripe and almost chewy tannins. Grippy finish. Good wine.
16-17+/20
Clos des Jacobins 2008: A rather hot style of nose here, volatile and balsamic, with
roasted fruit and a tinge of burnt coffee. The palate is firm, with a very solid
texture, hot cherry fruit and plenty of extracted tannin. This wine has a lot of
substance and rather low acidity. 14.5-15.5+/20
Chateau Larcis Ducasse 2008:
A deep and dark style of fruit here, with notes of cola and black cherry. Big,
rich, creamy, round and broad on the palate, with a lot of dry extract as well.
Lots of substance, lots of meat too. The extraction is rather heavy but perhaps
there is the fruit and intensity to carry this off? Finishes well. It will be
good to review this in two years time. 16.5-17.5+?/20
Chateau Larmande 2008:
Dark and slightly charcoal-tinged, and on the palate a very cool, polished
style of fruit, although it shows a little less sweetness than some. It has a
good elegant substance, quite juicy, with a moderate texture. Red fruits at the
edge, perhaps a rather leaner style, but certainly attractive. Lots of grip at
the finish. A good effort. 15.5-16.5+/20
Chateau La Serre 2008: A Moueix property. Rather hot and smoky fruit
on the nose here, although there is an appealing character to it, ripe and quite
bright. A nice palate, soft but composed at the start, with firm midpalate
tannins. Moderate texture, with a lot of structure showing through, and moderate
acidity. Slightly flat midpalate. Certainly ahead of the 2007 though. 15-16+/20
Chateau La Tour du Pin 2008: As I noted last year this was once one of the La Tour du Pin Figeac estates,
now renamed and run by the team at
Cheval-Blanc. This is
80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet
Franc. Quiet concentrated it seems, plummy, and a little cakey too. On the
palate, sweet, creamy, well defined, elegant but rich. Softly textured, although
the midpalate is a little firm, with good acidity and vibrant fruit. Lots of
texture and substance here. Very good indeed. 16.5-17.5+/20
Chateau La Tour Figeac 2008:
Dense and dark, concentrated fruit on the nose, with a slightly crystalline
edge, although there is also a rich and smoky character to it. Polished and
nicely defined, with a firm flesh, but a very linear rather than sweet or open
character. Quite a dense tannic grip, and a lot of substance at the end. More
reserved than some others on show, but still good. 15.5-16.5+/20
Chateau Magdelaine 2008: A
Moueix property. Aromatic fruit, although there is a little green, vegetal twist
at the back of it, with a celery-celeriac character. Fairly firm palate,
slightly raw tannins, with moderate texture. There is a firm, slightly bitter
grip. Interesting wine, but that green character certainly detracts. 15-16+?/20
Chateau Moulin-Saint-Georges 2008: A Vauthier property, this has 80%
Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. The yield was just 32 hl/ha. Sweet and perfumed
nose, open and very aromatic, rich in blackberry essence. A lovely style on the
palate, a crisp edge but still a very rich and polished wine. Creamy, with sweet
plum and blackberry fruit, and great, ripe, broad tannins. This is very good
indeed. 16.5-17.5+/20
Chateau Patris 2008: A nice, vanilla cream nose here, with strawberry and
violet aromatics. Softly textured on the palate, rounded, pure, quite supple and
elegant. Rather a low level of acidity, but it is there, giving it a very gentle
character. More grip in the midpalate than expected, with slightly confected
cherry fruit. Overall this is fairly attractive. 15.5-16.5+/20
Chateau Pavie-Macquin 2008:
Dense, meaty, smoky, confit plum and cherry fruit on the nose, and like
its Larcis stablemate a big, creamy style on the palate. The fruit on the palate
is slightly high-toned, and there is a lot of extract, with a massive core of
tannin. Big, chewy, domineering style, with a huge chewy finish. I find it very
hard to predict where wines like this are going. 16-17+?/20
Chateau de Pressac 2008: A rather hot and volatile nose here, with plump,
over-ripe cherry fruit. Soft, chewy but rather appealing on the palate, with
nice texture and grip, helped by freshness from a subtle seam of acidity. Rather
grippy through the midpalate and finish, and a decent length. Given appropriate
time this could be good. 15-16+/20
Chateau Le Prieuré 2008: This has
gentle, pure, blackcurranty fruit on the nose, with a twist of cream. Gentle,
soft, slightly chalky, rather a middleweight, although more chewy in the
midpalate. Supple, lifted, and yet chewy in the finish too. 14.5-15.5+/20
Chateau Puy-Blanquette 2008: A Moueix property. This has rather dense
fruit on the nose, although it is fairly bright and fresh. Rather hard structure
on the palate, with huge, firm acidity. Sharp, peppery tannic structure,
somewhat austere, with lean fruit. Lacks a little flesh. Firm finish.
14.5-15.5+/20
Chateau Ripeau 2008: This wine has bright, stony-herby red fruit on
the nose, and soft, gentle chalky red fruit evident on the palate. A touch oily,
low acidity, rather medicinal in character, and a little grip at the end. Not
the freshest of styles. 13-14+/20
Chateau Rolland-Maillet 2008:
A wine from the Rolland collection. This has lots of sweet, plummy fruit on the nose, and on the palate
there is plenty of
sweetness to the texture, laid over a layer of structure. Good acidity, and a
grippy midpalate. Decent stuff. 15.5-16.5+/20
Chateau Simard 2008: A Vauthier property. The yield was 34 hl/ha, and
the wine 65% Merlot and 35% Cabernet Franc. Sweet and smoky fruit here.
Delicious, juicy, sweet and open on the palate. More trim through the midpalate,
although the rather flashy style of fruit persists. Lots of tannins building
on the way, firm acids, underneath very structured in fact. Should be
good. 16-17+/20
Chateau Troplong-Mondot 2008:
Vibrant but rich, sweet crystalline black cherry fruit, an obvious big and sweet
style. Dry but well polished tannins at the core, building to provide a big
tannic backbone. It has a slightly hard style of structure, but there is
sweetness in the fruit as on the nose, and plenty of substance. A big style of
wine, but it has balance and staying power. Potentially excellent. 17.5-18.5+/20
Chateau Trottevieille 2008: Bright and slightly perfumed fruit, fresh
and slightly high-toned. Slightly herby too. Fresh bright red fruits at the
start, and a drier midpalate. But there is structure beneath the texture, and
well-judged tannins. Good acidity too. A good effort in what is clearly a
successful vintage for the appellation. 16-17+/20
Chateau Guibot la Fourvieille (Puisseguin St Emilion) 2008: Hot cherry here on the nose. A nice
substance to it on entry though, followed up by a somewhat oily midpalate, but
there is some nice grip. Decent tannins, a touch chewy in fact, with good
weight, but this lacks excitement and precision. 14-15+/20
Chateau du Courlat (Lussac St Emilion) 2008: Rather muted fruit on the nose, with a creamy-chalky
plum character. Gently styled on the palate, with chalky red fruits, albeit
somewhat muted like the nose. Nice substance though, and grippy, perhaps
slightly woody, with a firm somewhat rustic tannic structure. There are some
attractive points here though. 15-16+/20
Chateau La Rose Perrière (Lussac St Emilion) 2008: Attractive, creamy fruit on the nose, with the
aroma of raspberry and cherry rather than plum. Softly composed on the palate, a
little diffuse and a touch oily, with moderate grip at best. Nice creamy fruit
though. There is a little potential here.
14.5-15.5+/20
