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Chateau Cheval Blanc

Is there any chateau more enigmatic than Cheval Blanc? This Premier Grand Cru Classé property (Class A, to set it and Ausone apart from the Class B hoi-polloi such as Belair, Canon, Pavie, and the like) occupies a unique position in St Emilion and Bordeaux. With its mysterious name, its vineyards dominated by Cabernet Franc and, to cut to the chase, a history of turning out simply fabulous wines, it is no wonder Cheval Blanc is such an irresistible lure to so many. And I readily include myself in this group of people that find themselves drawn to Cheval Blanc.

From Figeac to Cheval Blanc

Although the origins of the name, Cheval Blanc, are difficult to elucidate, the history behind more tangible components of the estate are not so reticent. It was in 1832 that the first part of what was to become Cheval Blanc was acquired by the Ducasse family from the Figeac estate, at that time owned by Countess Félicité de Carle-Trajet. The Countess sold off portions of her estate to a number of buyers, and the Ducasse family took more vineyard in 1838, augmenting their earlier purchase. In 1852, Mlle Henriette Ducasse married Jean Laussac-Fourcaud, and her dowry included their recently acquired vineyards. These were of high quality, and included two of the five gravel mounds that run through Figeac and Cheval Blanc, part of the gravelly terroir that also touches near-neighbour Petrus, in Pomerol. Laussac-Fourcaud further augmented the estate over the coming years, purchasing a number of plots, and by 1871 the property was spread over 41 hectares, as it is today. Unlike many Bordeaux chateaux, Cheval Blanc avoided the usual roller-coaster ride through Phylloxera and economic depression; times were very hard, but the property was well-kept by the Laussac-Fourcaud family, who were responsible for many significant developments on the estate, and held tenure until the closing of the 20th century.

History has it that Laussac-Fourcaud began the renovations at the estate and commenced the building of the chateau within a few years of acquiring the first section of vineyard. An attractive two-storey affair, the property was completed around 1860, and today it is complemented by a more recently built chai, as well as a small chapel and an orangery. As for the vineyard, the most notable development here was the installation of an effective network of field drains, preventing the flooding which up until that point had plagued the vines; this was the first St Emilion estate to be blessed with such a system. With such attention to the vineyard it is perhaps inevitable that the quality of the wine would increase, yet during the early years the Laussac-Fourcaud family continued to sell their wine under the Figeac label; it was years before they began to market it as Cheval Blanc.

The Arrival of Cheval Blanc

When the Laussac-Fourcaud family finally began to release the wine under their own label it turned out to be a great success, picking up medals (reproductions of which can be seen printed on the label today) in the London and Paris International Exhibitions in 1862 and 1867. The family's fortune was secured, and in 1893 when Jean died his son, Albert, inherited an estate in a healthy condition. It was Albert, who subsequently reversed his surname, becoming Albert Fourcaud-Laussac, who steered Cheval Blanc through the great vintages of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, especially the duo of 1899 and 1900, and the superb 1921, none of which I have ever had the fortune to taste. He also had the business acumen and foresight to convert Cheval Blanc into a Société Civile, ran by his children, so that upon his death in 1927 the family avoided the tax issues and inheritance squabbles that can so easily ruin an otherwise successful vineyard. His descendants continued their tenure through the 20th century, with management of the estate subsequently passing to Jacques Hébrard, the husband of Albert's granddaughter. In 1998, however, everything changed. Chateau Cheval Blanc was too big a gem not to attract the attention of portfolio-building, vineyard-buying big business, it seems.

Sadly, the great properties of Bordeaux have great appeal to international business consortiums; I sometimes wish instead that they would invest their endless wealth into some of the under-performing and under-rated minor regions, where it could have such a revolutionary impact. Cheval Blanc fell prey to a joint investment from LVMH, the luxury goods group that peddles handbags, perfume and Champagne, which is headed up by Bernard Arnault, and from Belgium's richest businessman Albert Frère. They installed Pierre Lurton, Lurton being a name synonymous with Bordeaux, as estate manager; Lurton now divides his time between Cheval Blanc and his other chief property, Yquem. Obviously, with a corporate take-over and the estate now at the mercy of the accountants, we can expect a deterioration in quality, can we not? Not at all, I am glad to say; having tasted a good number of very recent vintages the wines turned out by Cheval Blanc remain, in my opinion, as desirable as ever.

The Vineyards and Wines

The Cheval Blanc vineyards, and the property itself, border those of Pomerol; Cheval Blanc's most intimate neighbour is Chateau L'Evangile, a Pomerol property, which lies just across the road. The vines, which are 57% Cabernet Franc, with the balance mostly Merlot (39%), augmented by a little Cabernet Sauvignon (3%) and Malbec (1%), lie on three principle terroirs; first a blend of gravel and sand over much of the vineyard, secondly a large area of sand and clay over a compact blue clay, whilst lastly a smaller proportion of the estate is sandy-clay with iron deposits. The vines are aged over 30 years on average, and there is a conscientious approach to vineyard management. Herbicides are nowhere to be seen, anything other than natural fertiliser is eschewed and the soil between the rows is ploughed to control weeds and to encourage deep root formation. The vines are harvested typically at 35 hl/ha, assisted by a green harvest during the summer.

As you would imagine with a wine where a second mortgage can be very useful when making a purchase, no expense is spared in handling the fruit and fermentation. There is rigorous selection both in the vineyard and winery, prior to alcoholic fermentation in concrete and stainless steel vats, with each vineyard plot vinified separately. The fruit receives a gentle hydraulic press, and some of the press wine is mixed back into the final blend, the exact percentage obviously varying with the vintage. After malolactic fermentation the wine goes into oak, naturally 100% new, where in the case of the grand vin, Chateau Cheval Blanc (typically 6000 cases per annum), it matures for 18 months. The second wine, Le Petit Cheval (typically 2500 cases), will not see such an extended period in oak, with a year a more typical maturation period.

Much of my earlier experiences of Cheval Blanc come from a tasting, with Pierre Lurton, of the grand vin, second wine and also Cheval des Andes, a Chilean venture (which I include with my tasting notes below for completeness, rather than allowing the notes to languish in some backwater Chilean section of this site) as long ago as 2005. Nevertheless, this was not the first time I had drank the wines of Cheval Blanc, although for economic reasons it is the 'weaker' vintages that I have tasted, such as 1992, although I did taste the fabulous 1998 in 2004 in a tasting of St Emilions from that vintage. More recently though I met Pierre Lurton again, this time in Edinburgh, for a tasting of Cheval Blanc and Yquem, and of course I have visited the estate several times when in Bordeaux, most often during the primeur tastings. My experience of wines both young and mature are sufficient to show that this property deserves its place among the Bordeaux 'first growths' . This is despite not having tasted the legendary 1921, or the occasionally sighted and similarly mythical 1947, both vintages doing much to secure Cheval Blanc's reputation during the 20th century. I would suggest, however, that one day the 1998, and perhaps the 2000 and 2005, wines I have tasted, will take on similar status. (22/12/05, updated 21/11/06, 24/2/10)

Contact details:
Address: Chateau Cheval Blanc, 33330 St-Emilion
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 57 55 55 55
Fax +33 (0) 5 57 55 55 50
Internet: www.chateau-cheval-blanc.com

Chateau Cheval Blanc - Tasting Notes

I have also included, at the foot of the page, notes on Cheval des Andes, Cheval Blanc's Chilean venture. Click to locate stockists.

Chateau Cheval Blanc (St Emilion) 2008: Deep, meaty, smoky, intense and complex. Brilliantly perfumed and aromatic, fabulous purity and fine, lifted aromas. The palate comes on in the same vein; huge substance, a smoky-meaty depth of fruit, bright, linear and defined structure. Broad, rich and dense, with a profound backbone of fine tannins. This has amazing style and is one of my favourites of the vintage without doubt. This will be a truly great wine. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 18.5-19.5+/20 (April 2009)

Le Petit Cheval (St Emilion) 2008: This, the second wine of Cheval Blanc, has returned to its usual Merlot dominated composition this year, with 60% of that variety and 40% Cabernet Franc. A bright nose, beautifully aromatic, complex, layered and impressive. And this is the second wine? Aromatically it is punching way above its weight. The palate has freshness, a reserved texture, but underneath a lot of substance. Very high quality wine here; beautiful cottony tannins, and a great finish. Excellent potential. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 18-19+/20 (April 2009)

Chateau Cheval Blanc (St Emilion) 2007: There is aromatic complexity here, purity and depth, and it is very expressive of the fruit which is 55% Cabernet Franc and 45% Merlot. Rich but well defined, and this continues on the palate which shows overtly more substance and depth than the Petit Cheval, together with a finer balance. The texture is silky, fresh and there is a vigorous style here. Gently composed, integrated, pure and stylish, with a lovely finish and even some length, this is a success in this vintage. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 16.5-17.5+/20 (April 2008)

Le Petit Cheval (St Emilion) 2007: This, the second wine, is more strongly dominated by Cabernet Franc in this vintage than is usual, as it accounts for 70% of the blend, the remainder being Merlot. There is a meaty density here, but fruit purity too, and a brightness which is appealing. On the palate a very firm acid structure combined with rather soft tannins to support a layer of bright and peppery flavours. It has a good grip, and a direct, well defined and elegant style. For a second wine, this stylish effort over-performs. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 16-17+/20 (April 2008)

Chateau Cheval Blanc (St Emilion) 2005: A fine nose here, quite vibrant and aromatic, a touch chalky, with pure red fruit character, elegant with cranberry and redcurrant characteristics. There is a gentle smokiness to it but it has a very restrained application of oak, and there are quiet nuances of liquorice and crunchy tar. Beautiful purity on the palate, very well defined and elegantly complete, balanced and light-footed, although with appropriate substance and a core of well judged tannins. Not a prodigious wine, but it has lift, vigour and definition on its side. It is very true to the Cheval Blanc style based on my tastings of older vintages, and this will be absolutely fine in 10-20 years time. From a 2005 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 19.5+/20 (November 2009)

Chateau Cheval Blanc (St Emilion) 2004: Initially this wine does not seem so expressive, but with a little time in the glass it does open up a little. There is elegant fruit here, red and stony, with a perfumed but rich and meaty character, nicely defined. Compared to many of its peers it starts off rather dry, but it shows more fleshy fruit through the midpalate. It has a balanced character, with elegant texture, a nice core of tannin and good, bright acidity. Rather withdrawn and tight, there is a suggestion of suppleness wrapped around a lot of grip. This is very primary and youthful, but should be delicious with time. From a 2004 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 17.5+/20 (November 2008)

Chateau Cheval Blanc (St Emilion) 2004: This has a deeper hue than the 2001 Petit Cheval alongside which it was served. It is not so expressive as the slightly more mature wine, and it is clear tightly bound up, although even this youthful wine opens up with time, revealing sensuous aromas of violets. On the palate it shows some really rich fleshy substance, and here the structure of the wine unsurprisingly surpasses any display of aroma or flavour. It is rather soft and caressing, yet shows great character, freshness and acidity. It has a very bright finish, and great length. Although youthfully reticent at present, this could be really great. I would expect to see this score creep up in the future. From a tasting with Pierre Lurton. 17.5+/20 (June 2008)

Chateau Cheval Blanc (St Emilion) 2003: My first taste of this vintage, and again this is surprisingly showing early maturity at the rim, with a pink-orange hue. Is this a common theme in Cheval Blanc since the LVMH & Lurton involvement? An interesting nose, rather pruney, but tinged with garden mint aromas; frankly this reflects the heat of the vintage with great transparency. Full palate, without the depth of character of the 2001, but there is certainly much that appeals here. Slightly chewy and sinewy in texture, with firm alcohol on the finish, and a rather hot style overall. It shows the problems of the heatwave that 2003 brought to Bordeaux, yet it is still a commendable wine. Very good. 16.5/20 (April 2006)

Chateau Cheval Blanc (St Emilion) 2001: This has a moderate depth of colour, showing some surprising maturity on inspection, something I noticed when I tasted it previously, back in 2005. Nevertheless it has some ripe fruit on the nose, with maturing fruits infused with notes of green peppercorn and mint, characteristics I associate with appropriately ripe Cabernet Franc. This is divine. On the palate, behind a layer of berry fruit rubbed with vanilla, there is a melding of great character with fine elegance, with great style, although still showing a rather raw structure at present. Delightful, well-bred wine; as last time, it needs integration of structure, and yet has a paradoxically enticingly ready aroma and flavour. Ignoring the appearance, this has great potential to please over the coming years, but I am uncertain as to its longevity. 18.5+/20 (April 2006)

Chateau Cheval Blanc (St Emilion) 2001: This has a surprisingly mature hue for such a young wine, especially the grand vin, showing a much more advanced colour than the older 1999 and 2000. But it has a beautiful nose, very perfumed, aromatic coffee grounds and gently roasted meats. Lovely style. Fine texture on entry, proceeding to a full yet smoothly integrated midpalate, although there is still a little display of fatness and tannin. But despite the need for further integration, the flavours are quite evolved. Will, on the basis of this bottle if it is representative, will be drinking very shortly. I should perhaps reserve judgement, but....18+/20 (November 2005)

Le Petit Cheval (St Emilion) 2001: Cheval Blanc's second wine. A hot and smoky nose here, showing dark, spiced black fruits with a firm black pepper edge. Warm but despite this fairly well defined aromas. The palate surprises as it is a little lighter than I expected. The palate shows a lot of impact but not a lot of texture, especially through the midpalate where it is lean and rather stretched out. There is a good bitter grip though. This is an attractive wine, certainly of character, but the hollow middle means this will never be great. But it is the second wine and we should expect less, and in its favour it does have some appealing fruit elements and some length. Good. From a tasting with Pierre Lurton.. 16.5/20 (June 2008)

Chateau Cheval Blanc (St Emilion) 2000: A dense and glossy hue. Wow! What a nose; dense, spiced, complex and aromatic, with the pickling spice complexity and depth of concentration of a fine first growth, with exotic perfumed, coffee aromas. Wonderful style on the palate, which is balanced, creamy, elegant and almost seamlessly assembled. But there is still a core of youthful tannin, with fine, balanced acidity. Simply fine; this will be stupendous in time. 19.5+/20 (November 2005)

Le Petit Cheval (St Emilion) 2000: This is a little denser and more youthful in appearance again. Roasted coffee nose, very promising and fine, aromatic, minerally, smoky nose. Great freshness on the palate, ripe, finely structured, rather silky in character, but with very good substance enveloping a lovely core of tannins. This excellent wine demands five years in the cellar at least. 18+/20 (November 2005)

Chateau Cheval Blanc (St Emilion) 1999: A much more appealing depth of colour here, and a youthful nose to match. Precise, pleasing, ripe fruit, with little hints of floral elegance. Full, ripe palate, almost fleshy fruit, quite primary in character and tannic, but really full of potential. This one is not for drinking now; this needs 5-8 years in the cellar at least. Very good indeed. 17.5+/20 (November 2005)

Chateau Cheval Blanc (St Emilion) 1998: Another dense, deeply coloured wine. A lovely nose here too, refined and precise, with depth and complexity. Notes of pickling spices and densely concentrated fruits, again true first growth quality. This is glorious. Pure, elegant, balanced, precise, complex wine. Beautifully structure, with integrating tannins. This has the complete package of interest and structure, depth and texture. Wonderful, with potential for truly great things. Stunning, and scored rather higher than my tasting last year. 19.5+/20 (November 2005)

Chateau Cheval Blanc (St Emilion) 1998: The leading estate, together with Ausone. Situated on the plateau across the road from Conseillante and Vieux Chateau Certan, so no surprise that this stands apart from other St Emilion estates. There is Cabernet Franc and Merlot in an approximately 60:40 ratio, but also a little Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon here. A moderate density of hue; certainly not the darkest wine (I think that accolade fell to Pavie). The nose is stunning. It has style and elegance in abundance, with an exotic roasted cashew nut and dark fruit character, laid over some new oak. A fabulous palate, surprisingly approachable, but I think this is because it is so elegant and balanced. There are rich, rounded, dark fruits, with mineral notes. Ripe, supple tannins underpin it all. For me, this is undoubtedly the top wine of the tasting. Brilliant. From a St Emilion 1998 tasting. 18.5+/20 (May 2004)

Le Petit Cheval (St Emilion) 1998: Deep colour. And on the nose, deep fruit, seasoned with a little fresh garden mint and green peppercorn. This is fine. Integrating tannins on the palate which still provide a good structure, flavoured with a little coffee and mint. Delightfully structured wine, very approachable now, but will do some short term development I think. 17+/20 (November 2005)

Chateau Cheval Blanc (St Emilion) 1997: A lively, open, slightly meaty, deep and characterful nose, evolved, with a little nuance of green peppercorn and hints of iron. Rather detached on the palate, a little lean, and certainly gentle through the midpalate. Soft, integrated, aged. Drinking now. Interesting, developed and ready to go. But no better than good really. From a Bordeaux tasting with Bibendum. 16.5/20 (April 2007)

Le Petit Cheval (St Emilion) 1997: A very mature hue, with a moderate depth of colour. Some spicy Cabernet character on the palate, very mature style, with notes of wet stone and a little sea salt. Pleasingly textured palate, maybe a little elegant, but also slightly angular, with spicy tannin and a soft presence. Fully mature, and for drinking now. 16/20 (November 2005)

Chateau Cheval Blanc (St Emilion) 1996: An attractive hue here, although this wine - from a vintage which was very successful on the left bank but not so on the right. At twelve years it is showing some early maturity, with complex and appealing aromas of iron and tea leaves. Fresh, characterful, expressive, and the immediate impression is of a wine that is a success, taking into account the quality of this vintage for the region. The palate follows through, showing a fine presence, with a delicious, sappy, rounded character. It has a little weight, shows a touch of grip at the finish, and remains fresh and very complete throughout. A really lovely style here. From a tasting with Pierre Lurton. 17+/20 (June 2008)

Chateau Cheval Blanc (St Emilion) 1996: A deep, meaty, concentrated and evolved nose. Fresh, also a little soft, but underneath that a warm and velvety nature coating a core of tannin. Firm, certainly meaty as on the nose, full of potential. Not a great Cheval Blanc, nevertheless very good indeed. From a Bordeaux tasting with Bibendum. 17+/20 (April 2007)

Chateau Cheval Blanc (St Emilion) 1995: Showing a little more maturity here. Elegant nose, macerated plum fruit, spiced fruitcake, mature but maintaining good density. Quite ready on the palate, with integrated tannins giving just a little backbone. Lots of body and weight here, a meaty style. Just coming together and certainly drinking now, although not showing a lot of finesse, but I suspect this is one that will improve with time. 18+/20 (November 2005)

Chateau Cheval Blanc (St Emilion) 1994: Very dense, dark colour. A lovely nose, full of maturing, slightly roasted fruit, but also lots of burnt-toffee toasted oak. A really lovely palate! Big, sweet, earthy and textured. Meaty. Great concentration. Structured, with ripe tannin. Sweet fruit and some oak here too. This is one set for the cellar in order to show its best. Needs five years. From a Bordeaux 1994 tasting. 17.5+/20 (July 2004)

Chateau Cheval Blanc (St Emilion) 1992: A pale red-brown colour, much paler than other wines here. Some complexity on the nose - mature toffee and stale coffee, with vegetal and tobacco notes. Good attack on the palate, which is medium-full bodied. Smoothly textured, with mature, earthy flavours. Seems a touch rustic, and has strong acidity. I would guess that this is at peak. Drink sooner rather than later. From a 1992 vintage ten year on tasting. 16.5/20 (December 2002)

Chateau Cheval Blanc (St Emilion) 1989: A fascinating nose to this wine, which is now approaching the end of its second decade. Initially it showed some gamey and slightly mushroomy aromas, but then it opened out to reveal more complexity, with aromas of mint, salty rock and iron. It is certainly enticing! The palate is fresh, a touch fleshy with a nice texture to it, and although maturing nicely it is still in possession of some tannin and extract. This is a wine of fine substance, meaty and yet also stylish. A fabulous bottle. From a tasting with Pierre Lurton. 18.5+/20 (June 2008)

Chateau Cheval Blanc (St Emilion) 1989: A good depth, with a quite mature hue. Rather green style here, with green pepper and green peppercorn, surprising characteristics from this vintage. Lots of mature, macerated fruit alongside. Full, slightly fleshy, more green peppercorn spice, with lovely structure. Ripe and silky tannins, and a delightful, soft, creamy, mature mouthfeel. This is very good wine indeed, and I think will improve with further time in the cellar. 18.5+/20 (November 2005)

Chateau Cheval Blanc (St Emilion) 1986: A mature, brick-red hue. Very mature nose, all macerated plum fruit and damson jam, with a little mint on the side. Lovely, elegant finesse on the palate, with a full, creamy presence. A very fluid, lithe, seamless presence, really quite elegant, with plenty of plum jam and tobacco character. This is lovely wine. Drink now. 18.5/20 (November 2005)

Chateau Cheval Blanc (St Emilion) 1961: A very dense colour here. The nose tells me this wine is plainly oxidised and suffering from heat damage, and resembles a glass-matured Banyuls more than claret. A crying shame. From a 1961 Bordeaux tasting. Not scored. (June 2007)

Cheval des Andes 2002: A very deep colour, more concentrated than the 2001, and showing more purple youth. Denser, more earthy, more characterful, with really concentrated fruit in a really ripe style. That earthy character comes through on the palate, which has lots of structure, with plenty of tannin in the finish. Has perhaps greater potential than the 2001, and deserves to slumber for 3-4 years at least. 17.5+/20 (November 2005)

Cheval des Andes 2001: A deep, glossy hue; this is still a very young wine. Densely packed, perfumed, vibrant fruit on the nose, showing great purity and depth. Perhaps some early complexity. Rich and ripe fruit on the palate, which is dense, extracted, grippy, deeply tannic and yet balanced, elegant, showing finesse. This is very good indeed. Needs another year or two I think. 17+/20 (November 2005)