Chateau d'Angludet (Margaux) 1989: A good colour. The nose has an elegant bouquet, although there is also a sooty note suggestive of tannins. With time the nose opens out, to develop considerable fragrance. This is a big and aggressive wine when it comes to the palate. Lots of tannin, supporting some rich, blackcurrant fruit. Low acidity. Finishes with a coating of tannin. Needs another three to five years at least. 17+/20

Chateau Lascombes (Margaux) 1989: This wine has a slightly paler colour, but it still has an attractive appearance. Quite a bit of funk on the nose, although this seems to blow off with aeration. More sooty notes here as well, and I wonder if this is going to be a very tannic evening. There is more development with this wine, however, as fragrant aromas and notes of cigar box show themselves. On the palate, elegant and fragrant blackcurrant fruit. A full and richly flavoured midpalate, again fairly tannic but less so than the previous wine. A full bodied and smoothly textured mouthful, leading to more cigar box on the finish. Drinking very well now if decanted. 17/20

Chateau Labégorce-Zédé (Margaux) 1989: Lovely colour. A rose-petal and tobacco leaf nose. This wine also has good balance, although there are more prominent tannins. Well-built, fruit laden palate. Low acidity. Finishes well, but short. Great for drinking now, but doesn't have the substance of the other wines. 17/20

Chateau Palmer (Margaux) 1989: We have clearly taken a step up in quality here. A lovely colour. A wonderful, complex and fragrant nose, with hints of fresh coffee grounds. The forepalate is rich, round and full, and although this sensation persists the midpalate is dominated by the tannins which give this wine such structure. Lots of fat, ripe fruit, yet quite elegant and perfumed with it. The tannins persist after the finish. A great wine. Needs five years at least. 18.5+/20

Chateau Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) 1989: This wine has the deepest colour by far. The nose seems rich, austere and complex. This is a big and rich wine. A fruit-packed palate, with a massive structure. There are tannins everywhere, matched by good acidity. This is a wine built for the long haul, and still very much on the way up. This needs five to ten years at least. 17.5+/20

Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux (Margaux) 1989: The second wine of Margaux. A good colour here. Another fruit laden wine, much more evident on the nose here. A touch of caramel oak (just a touch), some good ground coffee notes and a hint of sooty tannins. Another big wine on the palate. Very tannic, rich, with loads of fruit. More fresh coffee, some fragrance developing, leading into a big, tannic finish. A good length. Overall a serious wine. Needs another five years. 17.5+/20

Chateau Cantemerle (Haut-Médoc) 1989: This wine and the next vie for position of most richly coloured wine of the flight. A perfumed nose, with cigar box and freshly rolled tobacco leaves. Another elegant palate, with a good balance, although with plentiful summer berry fruits. Full bodied, maintaining a smooth, rounded texture through the palate. Finishes well, and has good length. Tannins much more integrated than the previous wines. Ready for drinking now. 17/20

Chateau La Lagune (Haut-Médoc) 1989: Another well coloured wine. On the nose, big creamy toffee and vanilla aromas give the identity away. More big tannins on the forepalate with this wine, with ripe fruits and creamy vanilla. A fragrant edge. Tannic. Good fruit through the midpalate, persisting on the finish. Probably ready now with decanting. The presence of still perceptible oak is typical of La Lagune. 17/20