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Bordeaux 1988: Tasting, March 2004
It is just four years on since my last look at this vintage, and I have revisited it with this tasting. There were no possible comparisons between the two tastings, as this time we looked at an entirely different cohort of wines, focusing this time not on the left bank, but on the right bank communes of St Emilion and Pomerol. As noted in my review of the vintage, this was a year where there was broad success across Bordeaux, with the right bank appellations providing no exception to this rule. Indeed, this broad and sweeping comment seems to be borne out by this tasting. Admittedly, this was a small and well chosen selection of wines, but nevertheless they were of extremely high quality across the board.
There were five wines from Pomerol, with Latour à Pomerol leading the way in terms of quality, but with other less exalted estates very close behind. From St Emilion, just three wines, and here it was Figeac that shone. As usual, the wines were tasted blind, and the labels only revealed once my notes and scores had been made. (25/3/04)
Bordeaux 1988 - Tasting Notes
Tasted in March 2004. Click
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Clos Rene (Pomerol) 1988: A dark red wine with a youthful appearance.
A lovely, expressive nose, dominated by stone and gravel fruit, developing into
sweet blackcurrant and then strawberry character. The palate has fine structure,
with mineral-edged black fruit. It still has a touch of austerity, with a
surprising amount of tannin and firm acidity still present. Overall it seems
more in the left rather than right bank style. Nevertheless, it is lovely wine.
17+/20
Clos du Clocher (Pomerol) 1988: Another dark red wine. An expressive
and complex nose, with sweet blackcurrant fruit and beetroot notes. The palate
is firm and structured, with a little tannin yet to integrate, and good acidity.
There are notes of liquorice and tart black fruits through to the finish. Some
good texture here. Needs yet more time in the cellar to reach its best. 17.5+/20
Chateau Moulinet (Pomerol) 1988: A deep red, youthful colour. Mature
character on the nose here, with soft blackcurrant fruit, stones and minerals.
The palate has a firm structure, but maintains its elegance. There is a fleshy
texture alongside good tannins, a nicely integrated acidity and gravel-mineral
edged fruit. This is fine stuff. 18/20
Chateau Rouget (Pomerol) 1988: A somewhat challenging nose here, with aromas
of meat extract, Bovril and animalistic notes. The palate demonstrates that this
wine needs more time in the cellar, with its firm structure and powerful
presence. These tannins need to integrate a little more. Nevertheless there are
some complex flavours here, of hung game with a vegetal edge. Delicious stuff
that needs a few more years in order to reach its peak. 17+/20
Chateau Latour à Pomerol (Pomerol) 1988: A dark and youthful hue. What a
lovely nose this wine has, full of classically mature fruit, with notes of
gravel, mineral and stone. There is power evident on the nose too, with notes of
iron and a pure blackcurrant edge. The palate gives the same impression, one of pure
fruit plus power, good tannic structure, yet paradoxically it has a sense of
restraint. Good balance too. This wine has such potential. 18.5+/20
Chateau Clos des Jacobins (St Emilion) 1988: A Grand Cru. A good and
youthful depth of colour here. Plenty of fruit on the nose, with a strong
mineral and stone influence. The palate demonstrates quite classic creamy fruit,
with piles of texture and character. Correct acidity, and still a little tannin.
Delicious. 18/20
Chateau Magdelaine (St Emilion) 1988: A Premier Grand Cru Classé. A moderate
depth of colour here, with some dark fruits and hard, inky notes on the nose.
Closed, tannic and backward on the palate, but brimming with potential. Full,
structured, with plenty of fruit still. With time it reveals some complex,
vegetal notes. Lovely. 18+/20
Chateau Figeac (St Emilion) 1988: A Premier Grand Cru Classé. A moderate
depth of colour here. A lovely nose, with maturing Merlot fruit giving meaty,
spicy, fruit cake aromas. There are notes of minerals and stones also. A
beautiful palate, structured and powerful, with a fine balance of tannins,
acidity and fruit. Such purity too. 18.5+/20
