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Bordeaux 1988

The Bordelais didn't know it at the time, but 1988 was the first of three very successful vintages for the region. It followed the moderately successful 1987 vintage, in which some good wines were produced, although many were marred by rain at harvest time. As with all Bordeaux vintages, quality varied from commune to commune in 1988, with the greatest success enjoyed by the sweet wine appellations of Sauternes and Barsac. There were, however, a number of very good reds from further north also produced. Overall, however, the vintage has come to be regarded as slightly inferior to the two excellent vintages that followed.

In Margaux, one of the larger left bank appellations populated unfortunately by a large number of underperforming chateaux, this vintage was indeed a success. The story in St Julien was also one of success. Although it has no first growths it does have one very valid contender in the form of Leoville Las-Cases, as well as super-second Leoville-Barton, and a number of other impressive chateaux frequently turning out very good wines. The wines of these properties are worthy of examination in a vintage such as 1988 where prices are considerably less than those for 1989 or 1990, despite only minor differences in quality. (21/5/00)

Bordeaux 1988 - Tasting Notes

Tasted in March 2004. Click to locate stockists.

Clos Rene (Pomerol) 1988: A dark red wine with a youthful appearance. A lovely, expressive nose, dominated by stone and gravel fruit, developing into sweet blackcurrant and then strawberry character. The palate has fine structure, with mineral-edged black fruit. It still has a touch of austerity, with a surprising amount of tannin and and firm acidity still present. Overall it seems more in the left rather than right bank style. Nevertheless, it is lovely wine. 17+/20

Clos du Clocher (Pomerol) 1988: Another dark red wine. An expressive and complex nose, with sweet blackcurrant fruit and beetroot notes. The palate is firm and structured, with a little tannin yet to integrate, and good acidity. There are notes of licorice and tart black fruits through to the finish. Some good texture here. Needs yet more time in the cellar to reach its best. 17.5+/20

Chateau Moulinet (Pomerol) 1988: A deep red, youthful colour. Mature character on the nose here, with soft blackcurrant fruit, stones and minerals. The palate has a firm structure, but maintains its elegance. There is a fleshy texture alongside good tannins, a nicely integrated acidity and gravel-mineral edged fruit. This is fine stuff. 18/20

Chateau Rouget (Pomerol) 1988: A somewhat challenging nose here, with aromas of meat extract, Bovril and animalistic notes. The palate demonstrates that this wine needs more time in the cellar, with its firm structure and powerful presence. These tannins need to integrate a little more. Nevertheless there are some complex flavours here, of hung game with a vegetal edge. Delicious stuff that needs a few more years in order to reach its peak. 17+/20

Chateau Latour à Pomerol (Pomerol) 1988: A dark and youthful hue. What a lovely nose this wine has, full of classically mature fruit, with notes of gravel, mineral and stone. There is power evident on the nose too, with notes of iron and a pure blackcurrant edge. The palate gives the same impression, one of pure fruit plus power, good tannic structure, yet paradoxically it has a sense of restraint. Good balance too. This wine has such potential. 18.5+/20

Chateau Clos des Jacobins (St Emilion) 1988: A Grand Cru. A good and youthful depth of colour here. Plenty of fruit on the nose, with a strong mineral and stone influence. The palate demonstrates quite classic creamy fruit, with piles of texture and character. Correct acidity, and still a little tannin. Delicious. 18/20

Chateau Magdelaine (St Emilion) 1988: A Premier Grand Cru Classé. A moderate depth of colour here, with some dark fruits and hard, inky notes on the nose. Closed, tannic and backward on the palate, but brimming with potential. Full, structured, with plenty of fruit still. With time it reveals some complex, vegetal notes. Lovely. 18+/20

Chateau Figeac (St Emilion) 1988: A Premier Grand Cru Classé. A moderate depth of colour here. A lovely nose, with maturing Merlot fruit giving meaty, spicy, fruit cake aromas. There are notes of minerals and stones also. A beautiful palate, structured and powerful, with a fine balance of tannins, acidity and fruit. Such purity too. 18.5+/20

Tasted in May 2000.

Chateau d'Angludet (Margaux) 1988: A quite dense ruby red-purple hue. Nose is elegant with ripe, round fruit. The palate is medium bodied, with well balanced evident tannins and quite high acidity. Mature, slightly spicy fruit flavours dominate. Clean finish, nice length. 16.5/20

Chateau Cantenac-Brown (Margaux) 1988: A very densely coloured wine, with a dark caramel hue belying age. An attractive nose of cigars and strong blackcurrant fruit. On the palate it is medium bodied with a meaty texture. Evident tannins, nice mineral complexity, but overall the palate lacks elegance. The finish is pleasing and there is good length. 15/20

Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux (Margaux) 1988: Again an attractive red-caramel hue in the glass. The nose is less intense, with nuances of fruit, violets, and a herbaceous element. On the palate tannins are soft, acidity likewise not strongly apparent. Has a soft and rounded mouthfeel. Some pleasant fruit, spicy oak overtones, and a sweet fruit finish. 16/20

Chateau Malescot St-Exupéry (Margaux) 1988: A dark ruby-purple colour. Quite an earthy element to the nose here, but otherwise the overall bouquet is unexciting. Good attack on the palate with upfront, spicy fruit, a nice chewy mouthfeel, all backed up by good tannins. Finishes with considerable length. 15.5/20

Chateau Durfort-Vivens (Margaux) 1988: A dense purple hue. Quite a stunning, elegant, mature claret nose. The palate doesn't disappoint, with a well rounded mouthfeel and smooth texture. Soft tannins, balancing acidity, and soft elegant fruit. Finishes well, if anything a little short on the finish. 16.5/20

Chateau Gloria (St Julien) 1988: Beautiful red-purple hue. Nose of black fruit and spice. On the palate there is cream, black pepper and more spice. Soft tannins and soft, well integrated vanilla oak. Finishes well, but little length. 16/20

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1988: Deep red ruby colour, with tremendous legs coating the inside of the glass. Good nose with a smoky tobacco notes. On the palate a beautiful, elegant mouthfilling wine. Nicely textured fruit, spice and a hint of black pepper. Finishes beautifully with tremendous length. 18.5/20

Chateau Gruaud-Larose (St Julien) 1988: Another deep red wine, with tremendous length again. Initially the nose has a rubbery component, but the aroma quickly blew off so this seems to be just 'bottle-stink'. Good fruit otherwise. On the palate a huge body, very weighty, with smoke and tobacco elements. Well balanced. A lovely wine. 18/20

Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1988: A richly coloured wine. Violets and black fruit on the nose. The palate is a full-on attack of fruit, with smoky elements and well integrated oak. Good tannins and acidity. A little short on length. 17.5/20

Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou (St Julien) 1988: A deep, dark, brooding red. Lovely black fruit, cream and vanilla nose. On the palate excellent complexity, with nuances of cream, bacon fat and raspberry fruit. Full bodied, nicely textured with excellent poise. Finishes with more of that raspberry fruit, and tremendous length. 18.5/20

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