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Bordeaux 1988
The Bordelais didn't know it at the time, but 1988 was the first of three very successful vintages for the region. It followed the moderately successful 1987 vintage, in which some good wines were produced, although many were marred by rain at harvest time. As with all Bordeaux vintages, quality varied from commune to commune in 1988, with the greatest success enjoyed by the sweet wine appellations of Sauternes and Barsac. There were, however, a number of very good reds from further north also produced. Overall, however, the vintage has come to be regarded as slightly inferior to the two excellent vintages that followed.
In Margaux, one of the larger left bank appellations populated unfortunately by a large number of underperforming chateaux, this vintage was indeed a success. The story in St Julien was also one of success. Although it has no first growths it does have one very valid contender in the form of Leoville Las-Cases, as well as super-second Leoville-Barton, and a number of other impressive chateaux frequently turning out very good wines. The wines of these properties are worthy of examination in a vintage such as 1988 where prices are considerably less than those for 1989 or 1990, despite only minor differences in quality. (21/5/00)
Bordeaux 1988 - Tasting Notes
Tasted in March 2004. Click
to locate stockists.
Clos Rene (Pomerol) 1988: A dark red wine with a youthful appearance.
A lovely, expressive nose, dominated by stone and gravel fruit, developing into
sweet blackcurrant and then strawberry character. The palate has fine structure,
with mineral-edged black fruit. It still has a touch of austerity, with a
surprising amount of tannin and and firm acidity still present. Overall it seems
more in the left rather than right bank style. Nevertheless, it is lovely wine.
17+/20
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Clos du Clocher (Pomerol) 1988: Another dark red wine. An expressive
and complex nose, with sweet blackcurrant fruit and beetroot notes. The palate
is firm and structured, with a little tannin yet to integrate, and good acidity.
There are notes of licorice and tart black fruits through to the finish. Some
good texture here. Needs yet more time in the cellar to reach its best. 17.5+/20
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Chateau Moulinet (Pomerol) 1988: A deep red, youthful colour. Mature
character on the nose here, with soft blackcurrant fruit, stones and minerals.
The palate has a firm structure, but maintains its elegance. There is a fleshy
texture alongside good tannins, a nicely integrated acidity and gravel-mineral
edged fruit. This is fine stuff. 18/20
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Chateau Rouget (Pomerol) 1988: A somewhat challenging nose here, with aromas
of meat extract, Bovril and animalistic notes. The palate demonstrates that this
wine needs more time in the cellar, with its firm structure and powerful
presence. These tannins need to integrate a little more. Nevertheless there are
some complex flavours here, of hung game with a vegetal edge. Delicious stuff
that needs a few more years in order to reach its peak. 17+/20
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Chateau Latour à Pomerol (Pomerol) 1988: A dark and youthful hue. What a
lovely nose this wine has, full of classically mature fruit, with notes of
gravel, mineral and stone. There is power evident on the nose too, with notes of
iron and a pure blackcurrant edge. The palate gives the same impression, one of pure
fruit plus power, good tannic structure, yet paradoxically it has a sense of
restraint. Good balance too. This wine has such potential. 18.5+/20
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Chateau Clos des Jacobins (St Emilion) 1988: A Grand Cru. A good and
youthful depth of colour here. Plenty of fruit on the nose, with a strong
mineral and stone influence. The palate demonstrates quite classic creamy fruit,
with piles of texture and character. Correct acidity, and still a little tannin.
Delicious. 18/20
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Chateau Magdelaine (St Emilion) 1988: A Premier Grand Cru Classé. A moderate
depth of colour here, with some dark fruits and hard, inky notes on the nose.
Closed, tannic and backward on the palate, but brimming with potential. Full,
structured, with plenty of fruit still. With time it reveals some complex,
vegetal notes. Lovely. 18+/20
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Chateau Figeac (St Emilion) 1988: A Premier Grand Cru Classé. A moderate
depth of colour here. A lovely nose, with maturing Merlot fruit giving meaty,
spicy, fruit cake aromas. There are notes of minerals and stones also. A
beautiful palate, structured and powerful, with a fine balance of tannins,
acidity and fruit. Such purity too. 18.5+/20
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Tasted in May 2000.
Chateau d'Angludet (Margaux) 1988:
A quite dense ruby red-purple hue. Nose is elegant with
ripe, round fruit. The palate is medium bodied, with well
balanced evident tannins and quite high acidity. Mature,
slightly spicy fruit flavours dominate. Clean finish,
nice length. 16.5/20
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Chateau
Cantenac-Brown (Margaux) 1988: A very densely coloured wine, with a
dark caramel hue belying age. An attractive nose of
cigars and strong blackcurrant fruit. On the palate it is
medium bodied with a meaty texture. Evident tannins, nice
mineral complexity, but overall the palate lacks
elegance. The finish is pleasing and there is good
length. 15/20
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Pavillon Rouge du
Chateau Margaux (Margaux) 1988:
Again an attractive red-caramel hue in the glass. The nose is less intense, with
nuances of fruit, violets, and a herbaceous element. On the palate tannins are
soft, acidity likewise not strongly apparent. Has a soft and rounded mouthfeel.
Some pleasant fruit, spicy oak overtones, and a sweet fruit finish. 16/20
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Chateau Malescot St-Exupéry (Margaux) 1988: A
dark ruby-purple colour. Quite an earthy element to the
nose here, but otherwise the overall bouquet is
unexciting. Good attack on the palate with upfront, spicy
fruit, a nice chewy mouthfeel, all backed up by good
tannins. Finishes with considerable length. 15.5/20
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Chateau Durfort-Vivens
(Margaux) 1988: A dense purple hue. Quite a stunning, elegant, mature claret
nose. The palate doesn't disappoint, with a well rounded mouthfeel and smooth
texture. Soft tannins, balancing acidity, and soft elegant fruit. Finishes well,
if anything a little short on the finish. 16.5/20
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Chateau Gloria (St Julien)
1988: Beautiful red-purple hue. Nose of black fruit and spice. On the palate
there is cream, black pepper and more spice. Soft tannins and soft, well
integrated vanilla oak. Finishes well, but little length. 16/20
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Chateau Léoville-Barton
(St Julien) 1988: Deep red ruby colour, with tremendous legs coating the
inside of the glass. Good nose with a smoky tobacco notes. On the palate a
beautiful, elegant mouthfilling wine. Nicely textured fruit, spice and a hint of
black pepper. Finishes beautifully with tremendous length. 18.5/20
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Chateau Gruaud-Larose (St
Julien) 1988:
Another deep red wine, with tremendous length again. Initially the nose has
a rubbery component, but the aroma quickly blew off so this seems to be just
'bottle-stink'. Good fruit otherwise. On the palate a huge body, very weighty,
with smoke and tobacco elements. Well balanced. A lovely wine. 18/20
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Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1988:
A richly coloured wine. Violets and black fruit on
the nose. The palate is a full-on attack of fruit, with
smoky elements and well integrated oak. Good tannins and
acidity. A little short on length. 17.5/20
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Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou (St Julien) 1988: A deep, dark, brooding red. Lovely
black fruit, cream and vanilla nose. On the palate
excellent complexity, with nuances of cream, bacon fat
and raspberry fruit. Full bodied, nicely textured with
excellent poise. Finishes with more of that raspberry
fruit, and tremendous length. 18.5/20
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