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Domaine des Roches Neuves

Domaine des Roches Neuves proprietor, Thierry Germain, came to the Loire from his home, Bordeaux, in 1991. He wasn't alone for long, however, as within a few years his father, Bernard Germain, had followed him. Bernard still has interests in Bordeaux, but now also owns several Loire properties, most notably Chateau de Fesles in Bonnezeaux, but also Varennes (Savennières), La Roulerie, La Guimonière (both Coteaux du Layon) and Chateau de Fesles (Bonnezeaux), all purchased en masse from previous owner Gaston Lenôtre. Meanwhile, his son continues to eke out the most intensity and flavour possible from his Cabernet Franc vines in Saumur, pushing extract and concentration to the limit for Saumur-Champigny, of which he bottles three cuvées.

The entry level wine is the domaine bottling, produced from vines on the tuffeau limestone of the region, with sandy argilo-limestone soils above. These are 25 year-old vines, harvested typically at 50 hl/ha into small boxes before temperature-controlled fermentation with a 30 day cuvaison. An aliquot of the harvest may also see a cold soak for several days prior to fermentation, to aid extraction of colour and tannin. Next in to bat is the Terres Chaudes cuvée, produced from 35-45 year-old vines on tuffeau limestone once again, but with predominantly clay and limestone soils, with alternate ploughing and interplanting of grass between the vine rows. After green harvesting the eventual yield is 35 hl/ha. Following a slightly warmer fermentation, half of the wine spends a year on the lees in previously used barrels (for the Marginale cuvée), whereas the rest stays in stainless steel. It is bottled without fining or filtration. Finally, as far as red wines are concerned, comes Marginale, the product of low yields, typically 25 hl/ha, and after a warmer fermentation a period of oak ageing, up to two years in some vintages, in 228 litre and 400 litre French oak barrels.

In 1996 Thierry Germain purchased a plot of 75 year-old Chenin Blanc vines near Saumur, on argilo-limestone soils, interspersed with sandstone, flint and alluvial silt. After a harvest, the must is fermented in barrel and then spends one year on its lees before bottling. The end result is Insolite, Thierry Germain's only white cuvée.

My recent experience of Domaine des Roches Neuves is limited to the Terres Chaudes cuvée, in two vintages. Both show a rich, purple depth of hue not commonly associated with the wines of the Loire, testament to restricted yields and conscientious effort at extraction. The 2003, however, showed rather low acidity, a negative characteristic of this vintage found in many wines, but not something many reds of the Loire demonstrate, this being one of Europe's more northerly wine regions. It may disappoint many Loire drinkers, who come here seeking profoundly fresh acidity in their reds. And yet it doesn't present the richness or depth that you might expect from such an appearance either, and so it will also disappoint those that appreciate a more fleshy, textured style. Nevertheless, examining the wine's intrinsic qualities, the end result was good. The 2004 had just a little too obvious an acetic character to be swooned over, but behind this was a more classic style than the 2003. It does seem a little hit and miss, but fair's fair - the sample size is small, to say the least. Although I'm not sure that Germain's handling of the wine really suits the Loire, the enthusiasm and commitment is there, and I remain eager to be convinced. (18/4/06)

Contact details:
Address: 56 Boulevard Saint-Vincent, 49400 Varrains
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 41 52 94 02
Fax: +33 (0) 2 41 52 49 30
Internet: www.rochesneuves.com

Domaine des Roches Neuves - Tasting Notes

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Domaine des Roches Neuves Saumur Blanc L'Insolite 2007: This wine has a fine, rich, straw-gold hue in the glass. The nose is fascinating, starting off with a note of cooked apples, but this instantly fades, still leaving a sweet but fresh apple note, a juxtaposition of green apple skin with sweet, vibrant flesh. Alongside there are plump, golden fruit notes, tinges of minerals and a suggestion of caramel richness. A lovely, sappy, juicy style on the palate right from the start, with a great acid backbone. Thereafter the midpalate just builds and builds to a sweet apple-skin character set in a dry, broad and substantial frame, with a lot of texture over a lightly grippy core. Over a period of a few hours it really firms up, showing a firm and powerful character dressed with hints of lime. The finish is very long, with pure and detached fruit. This is great wine, which can be enjoyed now or left alone in the cellar for a number of years. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 17.5+/20 (February 2010)

Domaine des Roches Neuves Saumur-Champigny 2007: I must confess I have fairly low expectations of reds from this vintage, but there are good wines out there. This one certainly has some promise, showing a good depth of colour in the glass, quite a dense black cherry hue too. On the nose there are some dark fruits with a rather savoury edge. The palate starts off in quite a supple style, then showing more structure, but this never dominates, even though the fruit has a very reserved style and the wine itself a sinewy rather than fleshy texture. That savoury edge comes through on the palate again, backed up by a vein of ripe tannins, and a sappy, juicy-sour acidity. A very attractive wine in a difficult vintage, showing once again the skill of Thierry Germain. From an Artisan Wines tasting. 16+/20 (May 2009)

Domaine des Roches Neuves Saumur Blanc L'Insolite 2006: A rather refined nose here, not expressing much interest though. A little minerality, and a lovely weight on the palate. It has nice definition but not a lot of character, but underneath there is lovely structure and fine potential. It seems a little awkwardly composed at the moment, but this holds promise. From the 2008 France Under One Roof event. 16.5+?/20 (March 2008)

Domaine des Roches Neuves Saumur-Champigny 2006: This wine has a vibrant hue, with a moderately deep colour which is obviously youthful. On the nose there are touches of smoke, seashells and seasalt, along with complex raspberry and cherry fruit, as well as a little complex meat, particularly bacon. The palate is lean but full of flavour, quite sappy and juicy, mouthwatering in fact. This is in part due to a firm acidic structure, a nice grip and bite, and certainly a good coating of tannin on the finish. It has that lovely, stony, cherry-stone texture that makes good Saumur-Champigny so interesting to drink, but although exuberant and showing an attractive, rounded texture through the midpalate, it still has that reserved, fresh and flavoursome character. Very tasty. From an Artisan Wines tasting. 16.5/20 (April 2006)

Domaine des Roches Neuves Saumur-Champigny 'Terres Chaudes' 2004: A gorgeously deep colour, this wine being surprisingly like the 2003 in appearance; a profound, deep, youthful, purple hue with an almost blue rim. Fleeting glimpses of an acetic acid note on the nose, giving a high-toned edge, with a muted blackberry-cherry character. Nice entry, although with a fairly lean texture. A thin seam of tannin provides a little grip, although there is a note of slightly raw alcohol which distracts. It develops a rather more settled, integrated character through the midpalate. Unfussy drinking. 14.5/20 (April 2006) Label

Domaine des Roches Neuves Saumur-Champigny 'Terres Chaudes' 2003: Deep, intense, impressive, youthful purple. This youth is also evident on the nose, which shows a wealth of primary black cherry and damson fruit aromas, with a little twist of tobacco. Warm, ripe, expansive palate, showing plenty of conserve black fruit, but not huge or jammy. Decent acidity, although on the low side, together with soft, ripe tannins which mean this wine should improve over the next 1-2 years, although it's eminently enjoyable now. A success, in a successful vintage. From my Loire Extravaganza. 16.5+/20 (August 2005)