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Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte

With the distinctive blue shield on the label, the wines of Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte have a tendency to stand out in a crowd of bottles. I first came across one in a branch of Scatchard's, an old Liverpool wine merchant, very early on in my appreciation of wine. It was from a good vintage for the region, but was rather pricy, and in addition the estate at that time was reputedly passing through a period of under-performance. When looking for quality in Graves, Smith-Haut-Lafitte was one name that was low down the list, after more popular and perhaps exalted estates such as Pape-Clément, Domaine de Chevalier, Haut-Bailly and, of course, the complex of Haut-Brion properties. Today, this view would be outdated. Smith-Haut-Lafitte is a good example of the wave of reinvestment and revitalisation that some Bordeaux estates have experienced in the latter years of the 20th and early 21st centuries. Tastings of these vintages, both white and red, have demonstrated that there are now very good wines produced here. Smith-Haut-Lafitte has found its way onto my list of potential purchases once more.

Smith-Haut-Lafitte: A History

Like many Pessac-Léognan estates, the history of Smith-Haut-Lafitte extends back much further than those in the Médoc, which was only drained and made suitable for vineyards in the past few centuries. Properties in Graves, the main appellation here, of which Pessac-Léognan is a section, as well as the sweet wine enclaves of Sauternes, Barsac and the lesser known Cérons often date back to Medieval times, modern buildings occasionally incorporating the remains of ancient houses or even fortresses. Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte is no exception; it is claimed that viticulture was undertaken here by the Bosq family as long ago as 1365, when the Médoc was just a marsh, although there are no buildings standing today that date from this period. The mist clears a little in the 16th century, when records prove the existence of the estate, although it was not until two centuries later that it was purchased by George Smith, a Scottish merchant, who gave his name to the property. Smith was responsible for developing the estate, constructing a manor house, maintaining active viticulture and exporting his wine to the UK using his own ships.

By 1842, however, the estate was in French ownership, as Monsieur Duffour-Dubergier, Mayor of Bordeaux, inherited it from his mother. This family increased the reputation of Smith-Haut-Lafitte working with great care in the vineyard, and the wine was now exported worldwide, carried by Louis Eschenauer. In 1958, the Eschenauer company purchased the property, and the present owner, Daniel Cathiard, took control about 35 years after that. It is Cathiard, an Olympic skier who purchased the estate with the wealth generated by his national chain of supermarkets and sporting goods stores, who has been credited with returning Smith-Haut-Lafitte to the level of quality that it previously exhibited. Having sold their business interests, Daniel Cathiard and his wife Florence have invested heavily, restoring buildings, replacing vats and constructing a new barrel cellar. The estate has since been augmented by Les Sources de Caudalie, a complex of restaurants, hotel and a vinously-orientated health spa (run by a Cathiard daughter), but perhaps the most striking addition to the estate is the dramatic entrance to the barrel cellar which lies beneath one of the tasting rooms. At the press of a button the tasting-room floor opens, to reveal a secret descent into the abyss; it is very Bond-esque.

Smith-Haut-Lafitte: Vineyards and Wines

The vineyards total 56 hectares, of which 45 hectares are planted to red varieties, comprising 35% Merlot, 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc, the other 11 hectares being planted to white, specifically 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Sauvignon Gris and 5% Semillon. The average vine age is 30 years, on the usual 101.14 and 3309 rootstocks, and planting density is between 7500 and 10000 vines per hectare. The soils are typical of the region, mainly Gunzian gravel. Vineyard management under the Cathiards has moved away from mechanical and chemical influences to a more natural state; in 1992 herbicides were banned, and biological methods of pest control were introduced four years later. The fruit is harvested by hand into small 25 kg trays, a practice introduced in 1991 to reduce damage before vinification; the grapes see an initial sorting as they are picked, and since 1999 there is also a second manual sorting at the winery after they have been destemmed. The importance of this stage was underlined in 2001 when a second grape reception area was established, increasing the area of table for sorting and the number of workers involved, and the following year new, vibrating sorting tables were installed.

The white grapes are pressed, then cooled during settling, whereas the reds go straight to alcoholic fermentation; this is temperature-controlled, ten degrees cooler for the whites than the reds, with the red wines spending up to 32 days macerating. The white wines are fermented in 13 small stainless steel vats, the red in 18 80-hectolitre tronconic oak vats which replaced the steel vats in 2000. Having said that, in 2003 the Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon saw a more Burgundian approach, with fermentation and élevage in small barrels. The cap is submerged three times daily, and there is also pumping over, all under the supervision of technical director Fabien Teitgen and with the consultation of Michel Rolland and Pascal Ribéreau-Gayon. Once finished both wines undergo malolactic fermentation in oak, followed by the élevage, the red up to 20 months, with 50-80% new barrels, the white 12 months in 50% new barrels, with bâtonnage. All the Smith-Haut-Lafitte barrels are made by the on-site cooper, Jean-Luc Itey, who has been turning out 400 barrels per year here since 1995. The finished wines are neither fined nor filtered. The grand vin, Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte, appears in red (8300 cases per annum) and white (2500 cases per annum) guises, and there are second wines - including a rosé - which go under the Les Hauts de Smith label (5500 cases per annum).

I've alluded already to my personal opinion of Smith-Haut-Lafitte; this is a great property which lost its way at some point during the 20th century. In the past decade or so, however, things have taken a turn for the better here. The wines, on tasting them, are clearly of purchasable quality, in the case of 2005 they are both fresh and rich, both highly desirable characteristics, especially in combination! Other vintages are also impressive, especially the white 2006 - a great year for the whites wines of Graves; I have had the good fortune to taste it several times, including a bottle over dinner with Florence Cathiard (and numerous other people) at La Table du Lavoir, one of the aforementioned restaurants under the Les Sources de Caudelie brand in the grounds of Smith-Haut-Lafitte. There were many bottles sampled that night and we touched every point on the Smith-Haut-Lafitte spectrum. There was the finesse of the white 2006, but also the simple pleasure of the 2006 Les Hauts de Smith Rosé, the red 2006 grand vin was no slouch, neither was a delightful 2001 to name just a few. It was certainly a dinner to remember, and if I didn't already know it the wines tasted confirmed that Smith-Haut-Lafitte is once again a name to look out for and purchase. (16/5/06, updated 4/6/08, 26/8/09)

Contact details:
Address: Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte, 33650 Martillac
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 57 83 11 22
Fax: +33 (0) 5 57 83 11 21
Internet: www.smith-haut-lafitte.com

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte - Tasting Notes

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Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2009: Great fruit character here, ripe and open as is often the case with this estate since the Cathiards took control, with some exotic tinges to it as well. A soft style on the palate though, lovely fleshy and creamy fruit, broad with great depth and a gritty substance. There is a decent acid core to it as well. An impressive structure here. Very good. From my 2009 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 17.5-18.5+/20 (March 2010)

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte (Pessac-Léognan) 2009: A very dark and creamy wine with a bright cherry red-pink hue at the rim. The nose suggests lovely fruit concentration, very delineated and fresh, but plainly also rich and ripe. Dark in character, although with good floral tones. Lots of lovely substance on the palate, presented in a firm and bold style, with extracted tannins which dominate the palate. It has a good sense of balance though, with a layer of sweet but crunchy dark fruits alongside, and good acids too. An impressive wine full of character with really good potential. From my 2009 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 17.5-18.5+/20 (March 2010)

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2008: This has fine and fresh fruit, lively pear and aromatic acacia, although also a little oak. On the palate it has a moderate weight, a good grippy substance and a nice core of acidity. A good rounded character, with a nice peppery flesh. This has the characteristic Smith-Haut-Lafitte liveliness off fruit that is so appealing young. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 16.5-17.5+/20 (April 2009)

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte (Pessac-Léognan) 2008: Tasted twice. Smoky, slightly mineral, sweet and bright fruit on the nose here. Deep and creamy style on the palate, violet-tinged perfumed red fruit character, with moderate acidity, lots of flashy substance and a ripe grip. Overall a good, firm style. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 16-17+/20 (April 2009)

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2007: Fruit-rich rather than oaky on the nose, but not exuberant; it has a restrained and reserved feel to it, even though the fruit character has a fresh, aromatic plumpness. Lovely substance on the palate, fleshy and concentrated, firm and yet softening through the middle. Notes of spice and fruit complexity. This is very good indeed. From a tasting of 2007 Pessac-Léognan at two years of age. 17.5+/20 (October 2009)

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2007: Very direct on the nose, more lively than some, expressive, with a rather flashy edge to the passion fruit and lemon curd character. Soft, full, textured, some grip, with attractive fruit. Grassy notes on the finish. Needs to flesh out a little through the midpalate. Very good though. From my 2007 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 16-17+/20 (April 2008)

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte (Pessac-Léognan) 2007: A dark style of fruit on the nose here, with a rather hot feel to it, with hints of baked stone, roasted-charred aromas, and an animally edge too. A supple palate, with more crunchy fruit than I expected and quite an attractive although gentle substance. A little length too. There is potential for development in this wine, but it is noticeably less successful than the white. From a tasting of 2007 Pessac-Léognan at two years of age. 15+/20 (October 2009)

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte (Pessac-Léognan) 2007: Rather burnt, charry oak character here, raw and hard. Firm on the palate, a nice substance, broad, nice flesh and quite persistent. A slightly bitter charcoaly finish. Plenty of character although there is a need for this wine to come together in a more harmonious fashion in barrel. From my 2007 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 14.5-15.5+/20 (April 2008)

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2006: This has exuberant and creamy white fruits, with a touch of rich honey. It is delightful; the palate has a lot of fat, carrying through as a midpalate weight, but it is also savoury and appealing, with plenty of grip and acidity underneath it all. Vibrant and firm, I seem to like this wine more and more each time I taste it. This is excellent, and although different in style to both Pape-Clément and Chevalier, it is close in terms of quality. From a tasting of 2006 Pessac-Léognan at two years of age. 18+/20 (October 2008)

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2006: Tasted only two days ago at Smith-Haut-Lafitte. A exuberant and characterful nose here, this is plainly a flashy and stylish wine. Soft and seductive and fleshy on the palate, showing plenty of mettle, flavour and vigour. This is very forceful but rather supple too, and overall is really very attractive. Consistently very good indeed. From a tasting of 2006 White Graves. 17-17.5+/20 (April 2008)

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2006: A lovely intensity of fruit here on the nose, less candied but no less delicious. On the palate a lot of substance, with good flavour matching the nose, backed up with lots of grip and substance. Showing very well indeed, at the top end of my initial impression. From a Bordeaux 2006 assessment. 17-17.5+/20 (April 2008)

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2006: 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Semillon, 5% Sauvignon Gris. Fresh. Creamy, green-nettly nose. Vibrant and open, with candied confected fruit. A moderate texture and weight, peppery, grippy, full and firm. Good structure, this has very nice style, and is full of potential, although I preferred last years effort slightly more I think. From my 2006 Bordeaux assessment. 16-17+/20 (April 2007)

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte (Pessac-Léognan) 2006: Previously tasted, with some improvement, this trend continues here; today the wine shows some deep fruit and nutty oak, with round and flashy character although there is a somewhat austere midpalate. Ripe and grainy tannins, lots of sweet substance and good vigour too. A touch of tobacco in the finish. Could be very good. From a tasting of 2006 Pessac-Léognan at two years of age. 16.5+/20 (October 2008)

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte (Pessac-Léognan) 2006: Sweet fruit here, with notes of toffee and spice still showing in this youthful wine, with attractive raspberry, redcurrant and plum fruit. There is good substance on the palate which is even a touch creamy. Round, grippy, not hugely imbued with vigour but more complete than I thought on last tasting. This has potential and I can firm up my previously rather critical and certainly very broad score - a little. From a Bordeaux 2006 assessment. 15-16+/20 (April 2008)

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte (Pessac-Léognan) 2006: Rather a sweetly-scented nose, with ripe fruit alongside notes of cough-candy and aniseed. Full, moderately concentrated, a soft style, with ripe, defined but gentle tannins and moderate acidity. There are some nice components here but overall it lacks the freshness and structure I seek. From my 2006 Bordeaux assessment. 13-15/20 (April 2007)

Les Hauts de Smith Rosé (Pessac-Léognan) 2006: This wine is produced by the Cathiards at Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte and is equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, has a strawberry and cream nose. A firm and full palate, with good punch and depth of flavour. Great acidity, freshness and even a little, gentle grip. Good. From a Bordeaux 2006 assessment. 15/20 (April 2008)

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2005: There are aromas of smoke and appealing dried white fruits on the nose of this wine. The palate is full, ripe and plump, a rounded style, with only moderate acid and a gentle grip. A powerful style, well-polished, but as with my last tasting again the acidity isn't quite as lively as I would perhaps like. But it's good. 16.5+/20 (April 2008)

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2005: There are some beautiful, lively aromatics here, something I have come to expect from Smith-Haut-Lafitte with its renaissance in recent years. It has a ripe exuberance that sings from the glass, more modern and tropical than some of its peers, and sometimes with a rather heady but not perfumed style. On the palate it is perhaps a little flashy, but it has a nice definition, rounded with fair acidity although it does not quite have the zip that I picked up when tasting barrel samples in March 2006. But the ripe, mineral-tinged style is true to form for this property. Very good. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 16.5+/20 (October 2007)

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2005: Lots of zippy and exuberant on the nose here, really quite exotic in character, but with a lime-like freshness. Lovely fruit profile to match on the palate, a ripe tropical fruit salad. But it has great acidity too, fresh and balanced. There is a sharp note on the back of the palate, but overall this has fine character. Very good indeed. Tasted at the 2005 Bordeaux en primeur tasting. 16.5-17.5/20 (April 2006)

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte (Pessac-Léognan) 2005: Lots of toasty oak on the nose here, over tightly grained fruit. Smoky, charcoaly, wood-derived elements. Supple entry, soft and well composed, perhaps just a little too reticent. Fruit seems rather tightly packed in and is hiding behind a layer of oak that mirrors that found on the nose. Soft, but with a nice harmony that suggests that this wine will come good with time, although it is difficult to pass authoritative judgement today. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at four years of age. 17-17.5+?/20 (November 2009)

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte (Pessac-Léognan) 2005: A gentle nose, perhaps rather surprising in light of the preceding wines, with a redcurrant character. The palate has a really lovely style, smooth and rather seamless, with the tannins well hidden. Ripe and textured, but firm, with very good grip. This is very nicely composed, and has a good, ripe, grippy finish. Excellent potential again. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 17.5+/20 (October 2007)

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte (Pessac-Léognan) 2005: A moderate depth of colour, but a very expressive nose here, which displays complex, meaty, blackberry fruit. Good texture and weight on the palate, carrying a lovely depth of cherry and berry fruit. Fine, quite firm, not over-extracted tannins, although there is quite a flourish of them on the finish. An appealing, silky quality here. This has real depth, and is a real success for this perhaps underrated property. Tasted at the 2005 Bordeaux en primeur tasting. 17-18/20 (April 2006)

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: A divinely expressive fruit nose here, with juicy Sauvignon grapefruit and even a little banana, which is unusual but not actually all that unattractive in this instance. Good body, pithy, a little sinewy even, with a firm, full structure. Quite firm and masculine, showing much better than my tasting earlier in the year. From my 2004 Bordeaux assessment. 15.5-16.5+/20 (October 2006)

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: A ripe nose, which is currently displaying more depth than the 2005. It has a gooseberry, grassy style characteristic of Sauvignon Blanc. Soft, rounded palate, only moderate acidity which counts against it. It certainly has lots of good flavour. Nice weight. Just not as crisp or as fresh as I would like. 14/20 (April 2006)

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: This has plenty of dense fruit on the nose, presented in a stylish and evocative style, tinged with tobacco. It is fleshy, with dark fruits, a creamy texture, but still very bright and stylish. This has weight and impact but it is not overdone. There is a core of ripe tannins and an appealing backbone of acidity. Really a very good wine. From my assessment of 2004 Bordeaux at four years. 16.5+/20 (November 2008)

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: Exotic, smoky, spicy, very alluring wine. Rather open, not fabulously concentrated, but there is a good presence created by a nice grip and freshness of fruit. Rather gentle. Certainly appealing, which again should make for very good drinking in the future. From a tasting of 2004 Bordeaux. 16.5+/20 (April 2007)

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: This modern-styled wine shows some sweet and buttery oak on the nose, wrapped in some confit black fruits. Rounded and a little creamily textured, the wine hides its supple tannins well until the finish. Nice, cool style, with pepper-spice notes. Attractive. From my 2004 Bordeaux assessment. 16.5/20 (October 2006)

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte (Pessac-Léognan) 2003: Although I approached this wine with a little trepidation in view of the vintage, I was really impressed by the aromatics. A very densely styled nose, packed full of smoky tobacco and sweetly maturing fruit, with touches of dry leaves and undergrowth. A firm substance on the palate, with a deep and concentrated layer of fruit and delicious maturity laid over the substance of a seven-year wine. Lots of spice and grip. Lots of meat with a chewy edge too. Low acidity, so not to everyone's liking (and I didn't think it would be to mine), but this is really delicious to drink now. 17.5+/20 (March 2010)

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte (Pessac-Léognan) 2002: A good nose here, showing a little maturity. Quite meaty, iron notes, gravelly; this has an appealing, quite classic style. Rather soft, welcoming, rounded entry, but underneath there are firm tannins. My main criticism is that it is a little unfocused, but it has fairly crisp acidity and still shows a little brutal structure. I think it has really good potential, but it needs time. 16.5+/20 (April 2006)

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte (Pessac-Léognan) 2001: A good depth of colour here, vibrant, with a lovely, smoky, meaty, characterful iron-bound nose. There is some fine and vigorous fruit on the palate, which is fresh and balanced. Overall this has a nice texture and presence, and a fruit-forward, rather delicious style. This was fine with roast duck. 17/20 (April 2008)

Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2000: A very open, attractive, maturing, stylish and toasty wine. Rather lean on the palate, not as vibrant as I would have expected, not very fresh, not sufficient acidity for me. Seems a little stripped out. Lacks vigour and punch. Nevertheless it displays some appealing, mature characteristics. Good. From a Bordeaux tasting with Bibendum. 15/20 (April 2007)

Les Hauts de Smith Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 1999: Canned peaches on the nose, with a sherbetty nuance. The is a firm, solid affair rather than one of delicate elegance. It is quite dry, and peachy, although with rather less fruit than suggested by the nose. There’s a little grip and a stern, gritty finish. Will certainly improve in the cellar for two to three years. 15.5+/20 (October 2003)