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Bordeaux 2007: The Right Bank

Bordeaux 2007

Vintage Review

En primeur

Pessac-Léognan

The Médoc Communes

St Emilion & Pomerol

Sauternes & Barsac

This is not 1998 all over again, believe me. But if I were pressed on whether the 2007 vintage favoured the left bank or the right (let us just disregard Sauternes for a moment) then I would perhaps come down - albeit marginally - on the right bank of the Gironde. Or, to be geographically correct, the right bank of the Dordogne, as this is where the two main appellations, St Emilion and Pomerol, actually lie.

My opening statement might seem strange in reflection, after all these are wines based on Merlot in the majority of cases, and as I have stated in my Bordeaux 2007 vintage review the ripening of this variety was very retarded this year, with many estates still picking Merlot when the Cabernet harvest began. That is not the same as saying, however, that the Merlot was unripe; greenness was not largely a problem in these wines (this is true of the vintage as a whole). On the whole I felt the wines displayed more substance than those of the left bank; admittedly, again, these are Merlot-dominated wines, which means early tasting will be a different experience, but these wines gave more through the midpalate than those from the Médoc. There was a better balance, a better coating of fruit over the structure, and overall more promise for the future.

Bordeaux 2007

Of course, part of my problem with these appellations - with particular emphasis on St Emilion - is that there is a tendency to over-extract. Hugely concentrated wines, rich in drying, rasping tannins are not really my cup of tea. Happily, though, this seemed less of an issue this year. Perhaps as a response to the vintage, some seemed to have reined in the extraction, and may of the wines seem to have a good balance as a result. Even those wines that tend to feature more extraction than others - such as Pavie-Macquin and Larcis-Ducasse, both estates managed by Nicolas Thienpoint, who I met at Stéphane Derenoncourt's La Grappe tasting at La Gaffelière - seemed less overdone than they have done in previous vintages. Indeed, I though the Pavie-Macquin really rather good.

Although wines from St Emilion and Pomerol pop up everywhere - Nenin tasted at Léoville-Las-Cases, Petit-Village tasted at Pichon-Baron, and so on - the tastings were largely concentrated on a single day, affording me a fabulous opportunity to take as detailed and concentrated a look at these two communes as perhaps I could possibly hope for. The Moueix stable provided a first glance at how Pomerol had faired, with a widened exposure at the UGC tasting at Petit-Village, as well as a visit to Le Pin. For St Emilion, data gathered at the UGC tasting hosted by Chateau Laroze was augmented by visits to Ausone and Cheval-Blanc. The day finished up at the aforementioned Derenoncourt tasting, where more right bank wines sat alongside others from as far afield as Savennières and the Ribera del Duero.

Suffice to say that some wines - Ausone, Cheval-Blanc, Le Pin, Petrus and Trotanoy come immediately to mind - were exceedingly good. It is near impossible for me to provide a comparison with other recent vintages, but I should point out that in the only comparative tasting of 2006 against 2007 done on the day, which was at Le Pin, the 2006 was clearly superior to its 2007 stablemate. Perhaps this would be true of the other wines also? So, accepting that a handful of wines are good, I suspect they would not be so convincing if lined up against their 2006 counterparts, and I am sure they would skulk away in shame if they came face to face with a bottle of the 2005. But there is quality here, to an extent; whether or not the wines are worth buying, whether they offer the right value, naturally depends on the prix de sortie. It is almost certain to be in many cases, in my opinion, too high. (16/4/08)

The Right Bank 2007: Tasting Notes

Tasted in Bordeaux in April 2008. Click to locate stockists:

St Emilion

Chateau Angélus 2007: A deep, brooding nose, stuffed with characterful fruit with a slightly gamey edge. Very ripe fruit profile on the palate, with a firm composition and elegantly ripe tannins. A wine of serious intent, this has plenty of extract although it is not overdone, and carries a fine weight. Overall, considering the vintage, this is very appealing. 16-17+/20

Chateau Ausone 2007: There is a lovely presence of exotic spices on the nose here, an intense character, and some nutty oak. The palate starts off quite lovely, with svelte, well-knit composition. There is sappy fruit over a somewhat silky texture, with just a little firmness in the midpalate. It maintains a broad and constant presence through the midpalate and has a fine, fading, elegant finish. Overall this appears to be really delicious, a superbly harmonious effort which has overperformed in a lesser vintage. Excellent potential. 17-18+/20

La Chapelle d'Ausone 2007: This is the second wine of Ausone, and is produced from a selection made in the vineyard. There is a beautiful purity of fruit, which has a summer fruit character, particularly cherry. A lovely structure, gently persuasive, a little creamy, with a svelte presence on the palate. Underneath it some appealing grip. For a second wine in a lesser vintage, really rather good. 15.5-16.5+/20

Chateau Belair 2007: Sweet fruit, vanilla cream, attractive summer pudding character on the nose. A supple flesh on the palate, quite nicely balanced, softly styled with a gentle composition. Quite firm underneath though. A good presence of clean fruit at the finish, where there is a little more tannin evident. Good potential here. 14-15+/20

Chateau Bellevue 2007: This wine has some rich sweet oak aromas, with some super-ripe almost blue-black fruit. Although there is richness there is also purity, and in fact there is a pretty, elegant poise to it on the palate. Good firm tannins, quite fleshy and flattering, but with a good balance despite there being quite some grip towards the end. I think this is very attractive. 16-17+/20

Chateau Canon-la-Gaffelière 2007: A sweet and creamy nose, showing attractive plum and spice aromas, at the outset this sample has an appealing style. There is a textured, fleshy and yet firmly composed palate, which maintains a stylish demeanour rather than anything more flashy through the midpalate. Underneath there is a good grip, ripe tannins and good acidity too. It captures the vintage nicely. 15.5-16.5+/20

Chateau Cheval-Blanc 2007: There is aromatic complexity here, purity and depth, and it is very expressive of the fruit which is 55% Cabernet Franc and 45% Merlot. Rich but well defined, and this continues on the palate which shows overtly more substance and depth than the Petit Cheval, together with a finer balance. The texture is silky, fresh and there is a vigorous style here. Gently composed, integrated, pure and stylish, with a lovely finish and even some length, this is a success in this vintage. 16.5-17.5+/20

Le Petit Cheval 2007: This, the second wine of Cheval-Blanc, is more strongly dominated by Cabernet Franc in this vintage than is usual, as it accounts for 70% of the blend, the remainder being Merlot. There is a meaty density here, but fruit purity too, and a brightness which is appealing. On the palate a very firm acid structure combined with rather soft tannins to support a layer of bright and peppery flavours. It has a good grip, and a direct, well defined and elegant style. For a second wine, this stylish effort over-performs. 16-17+/20

Chateau Figeac 2007: There is immediately apparent fruit complexity here, with a nose that shows plenty of deeply piled fruit which has a slightly gamey, slightly savage quality. Then it transforms on the palate, displaying here a serene and creamy elegance, although beneath there lies a brooding depth and structure. This is sweet and sappy, with a lovely backbone of ripe tannins which are well covered by the fruit at present. Really, a very good wine indeed. 16.5-17.5+/20

Chateau Fonbel 2007: This is dark and rather meaty, full and expressive on the nose. The palate is flashy, with a soft, creamy, chewy presence reflecting considerable extraction of tannins (and colour). Rather moderate acidity, overall a softer, modern, pleasantly styled wine which will appeal to someone. 14-15+/20

Clos Fourtet 2007: Tasted twice during the primeurs week, I liked the aromas of roasted meat on the nose here, alongside a wealth of complex, spicy, creamy blue-black fruit. Huge and quite flattering on the palate, but with a bright character and good flesh covering the firm tannic and acidic structure. This is really nicely put together, but it does have a big, forceful style, albeit balanced, that might not appeal to all. I like it though. 16.5-17.5+/20

Chateau Grand Mayne 2007: A lovely density of aroma here, a brooding style, with lots of depth. This is true for the palate as well, which shows a lot of substance, although it all remains nicely balanced through the midpalate. It has a firm grip but it is well coated in fruit, and the acidity is a little gentler than some of its peers. This is a real success for this estate, which I hope comes through in the bottled wine. 16.5-17.5+/20

Chateau La Gaffelière 2007: Tasted twice during the primeurs week, this wine has aromatic fruit, freshly delivered, a nose of crunchy raspberry fruit mixed with flattering cream. It has a lovely style on the palate, which is creamy and persistent, and has a fine composition. Rounded fruit covers the tannic grip, and there is a lot of substance underneath. It is a little leaner further on in the palate, but it has vigour and life. Very good potential here. 16-17+/20

Chateau Larcis Ducasse 2007: This is appealingly aromatic, with notes of vanilla, plum and bright summer pudding fruits. The palate is full, sweet and creamy, although it soon reveals a very hard extract beneath which is only partially covered by the overlying fruit. Firm acidity, a well structured wine, showing a chewy and drying grip at the finish. The extraction here is borderline, as with the 2005, so it will be interesting to see how this fairs once in bottle, but I think it could be very good indeed. 16-17+?/20

Chateau Larmande 2007: A darker, more plummy style of fruit than many of the other wines on show today, but it has an appealing freshness too. This is matched by plenty of attractive acidity on the palate, matched with a full and gently creamy texture and a good bite of tannins. It is all nicely mixed together and is even a little flashy. A nice wine. 15-16+/20

Chateau Lucia 2007: Bright and aromatic fruit on the nose, very pure and lively. The palate is rich and creamy, with a lot of midpalate pepper. This is very attractive, with plenty of acid bite, and a nice extract. Firm but not overdone, this has potential. Very good. 15.5-16.5+/20

Chateau Magdelaine 2007: A more stony character than the other Moueix St Emilions, but warmly expressive. Less impact on the palate than I expected, less flattering, with ripe and peppery tannins. It is firm, with a lot of tannic structure and acid, and not a wealth of flesh. Again, a sample showing a touch too much extraction for me I think, but it is borderline. 13.5-14.5+/20

Chateau Moulin-Saint-Georges 2007: Rather restrained and slightly stony fruit on the nose, not so expressive as Simard and Fonbel tasted alongside. The palate is gentle, balanced, with a firm midpalate. There is sufficient fruit and flesh to match the slightly hard tannic backbone, and through the midpalate it even shows a little svelte and creamy character. This has a good style. 14.5-15.5+/20

Chateau Pavie-Macquin 2007: Tasted twice during the primeurs week, the second sample was the more convincing of the two. It has plenty of exuberantly rich, super-ripe expressive fruit, with aromas of liquorice and pure plum and blackberry. Fresh on entry, supple in style, with a high level of extract, but this is well covered by the texture of the wine and doesn't appear to be excessive. A creamy midpalate, overall integrated and stylish. This is certainly seems less overdone than the 2005 and I like it. Very good potential. 16-17+/20

Chateau Rol Valentin 2007: Liquorice, ink and orange peel on the nose here, along with pepper and spice. Rather drying tannins, this wine has a big extraction for the full and ripe fruit to live up to. There is an appealing texture, with a little freshness, but it is bordering on overworked for me. 14-15+?/20

Chateau La Serre 2007: Sweet, toasty, oak-laden fruit here, with a liquorice, brambly, slightly exotic character. Quite fleshy and creamy on entry, flattering, textured, but with a wealth of tannins showing in the midpalate giving a lot of punch. Chewy, ripe, a wine of substance but with rather heavy extraction for me. 13-14+/20

Chateau Simard 2007: This wine has some very firm black fruits on the nose, with a bright and minerally character. This firm and stony style comes through on the palate which is upright and attractive, gently minerally, with a firm midpalate and finish. There is plenty of grip here too. This has some potential, and is overall a nice wine. 14-15+/20

Chateau La Tour du Pin 2007: This was once one of the La Tour du Pin Figeac estates, recently purchased and now run by the team at Cheval-Blanc. This is the first vintage that they are prepared to show, and it is 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. It does not have a very aromatic nose, but the palate carries some promise. There is a good substance to it, a stylish and rather creamy character, and nicely covered tannins. Firm acid backbone. It shows little in the way of finesse, but this is a promising start. 15-16+/20

Chateau La Tour Figeac 2007: This sample has a nose of blackberries and vanilla cream, and perhaps unsurprisingly it also has a rather soft, flattering, creamy entry. The midpalate is soft and rounded, with lots of hard structure underneath. Good spicy grip. A hard style, with lots of extract, it at least has character on its side. It may soften up with élevage. 14-15+/20

Chateau Troplong-Mondot 2007: A vibrant freshness of fruit on the nose at first, revealing nuances of aromatic cherry and also a little liquorice. The palate has a pure and rather rich style, with a lot of spicy and peppery fruit, with a rather an exotic edge to it all. There is a very firm structure apparent, in what is a firm and classically fashioned wine. Nice acidity too. This is potentially very good indeed. 15.5-16.5+/20

Pomerol

Chateau Beauregard 2007: This has a fine and pure, slightly exotic presence of fruit on the nose, with spiced plums and other fruits; overall it has a seductive character that is very typical for the appellation. On the palate it is light-footed, showing an elegant poise at the start, and more flesh through the midpalate. Nicely aromatic fruit, freshness, and underneath quite some grip. This has a good style. 15.5-16.5+/20

Chateau Bourgneuf-Vayron 2007: A nice depth of fruit on the nose here, which suggests concentration. Gentle black fruit and plum nuances. On the palate it seems rich and creamy, well textured, flattering but with an underpinning structure. Rather sweet fruit and some prominent charcoaly oak. Balanced, this has some appeal. 15-16+/20

Chateau La Cabanne 2007: A very unusual nose here, aromatic, but tinged with diffuse aromas of iodine, perhaps seaweed. It seems a little dirty in character. Very lean on the palate, sappy with meaty-gamey fruit and a nice acidity. Not a lot of flesh and certainly some concern here from the aromatics. It may have been the individual bottle rather than the wine. On that basis, no score here.

Chateau Certan 2007: A dark and creamy character here, with concentrated, rich and sweet fruit in a very ripe style apparent on the nose. Soft and plummy, very flattering, rounded and gentle, with exotic nuances to the fruit. Through the midpalate there is a gentle wave of ripe tannins balanced by correct acidity. Flashy, modern and appealing, with gentle fruit on the finish, but with more grip here too. This could be very good. 15.5-16.5+/20

Chateau Certan Marzelle 2007: This has a very bright and lifted raspberry and blackberry fruit nose, which is a little unusual in this context, married with some buttery oak. On the palate there is a lot of cream and substance, with sweet fruit, underpinned by a layer of hard tannins. Firm stucture, firm acidity, although what I sense is ripe. But it doesn't possess the flesh I expected. 14.5-15.5+/20

Chateau Clinet 2007: Bright and aromatic cherry fruit on the nose here. This is fresh, stylish and elegant, although is perhaps a touch firm. There is no excess fat here, this wine has a leaner midpalate and a rather upright, reserved, austere character. But there is elegance as suggested on the nose, and a gentle flesh apparent on the second taste. And once again, underneath, a lot of grip. A note of caution here, but hopefully good, perhaps even better than that. 15.5-16.5+?/20

Chateau La Conseillante 2007: This wine has a really punchy nose, bursting with the aromas of deep and plush fruit, framed by appealingly spicy oak. Rich, creamy and textured on the palate, but not flashy; although a very seductive style, there is also an elegant style here. This is quite impressive to my palate. A potentially delicious wine. 16.5-17.5+/20

Chateau La Croix de Gay 2007: Rich dark plums here, fairly intensely concentrated, spiced with fresh blackberry nuances. An appealing style, lighter and more elegant than I expected, soft and supple in its composition. Underneath a firm, peppery acid core and very nicely coated tannins. Quite classically poised on the palate. Very good potential. 15.5-16.5+/20

Chateau La Fleur-Pétrus 2007: Sweet fruit on the nose, touched with gamey richness and oak. Well defined and very nicely composed substance on the palate, a raft of sweet plummy fruit with a firm and attractive character. Towards the finish it shows an attractive, flattering body. Nicely balanced, this wine has plenty of appeal. Very good potential indeed. 16-17+/20

Chateau Gazin 2007: This is a very dark wine, with a nose rich in the aromas of nutty oak, and some brooding, somewhat exotic fruit. A lovely vigour on entry, and a well defined and precise palate. this is fresh and elegant, and balanced, although there is a firm grip underneath. Overall, though, a good wine which I hope translates through into the finished product. 16-17+/20

Chateau La Grave à Pomerol 2007: An expressive nose here, ripe and creamy fruit, with more impact than some wines. Attractively styled, nicely composed, this has a gentle, round, complete nature. Prominent tannic structure, firm, good acidity, but finishing straight and sappy. Overall rather appealing. 15-16+/20

Chateau Hosanna 2007: This sample doesn't seem so expressive on the nose as some. It has some sweet and rather gritty fruit, although on the palate it shows a more creamy, flashy, rounded quality than I was perhaps expecting. A lovely overlay of fruit, soft and plummy, with a gentle structure of pillowy tannins and moderate acidity. It has perhaps less vigour than some others, and a gently fading finish, but overall it is good. 14.5-15.5+/20

Chateau Lafleur-Gazin 2007: Rather a plummy nose here, quite well spiced, with an attractive and creamy character. Appealingly supple palate, rather more integrated than the Plince which was tasted immediately before. Gentle and understated, though with a firm acid backbone, and a peppery spice. Good fruit and a ripe grip at the end. This has appealing style. 14.5-15.5+/20

Chateau Latour à Pomerol 2007: Dark sweet fruit on the nose here, a slightly meaty style, this is impressive. On the palate it possesses a lovely depth, a fine weight, and some beautifully coated tannins. There is a lot of substance here, but also an approachable and balanced composition, with fine acidity. A gentle finish, but overall this is a very attractive wine, and a real step up within the Moueix firmament in this vintage. 16-17+/20

Chateau Nenin 2007: An attractive, moderately dense nose of sweet blackberry fruit. there is some depth here. It has a sweet and creamy character on entry, and an appealing midpalate structure, with a lot of grip at the finish. There are enticing scents of tar, roses and fruit. An attractive sample with potential. 15-16+/20

Fugue de Nenin 2007: The second wine of Nenin. Firm and sweet blackberry fruit on the nose here. A nice entry, showing some substance, with a pleasant midpalate weight. Evident structure here, and rather buttery oak showing through. It shows its bones towards the finish, and has a rustic grip. 13-14/20

Chateau Petit Village 2007: Made using pigeage for the first time, under the guidance of Stéphane Derenoncourt. A gentle, bright, aromatic style showing some sweet, exotic, scented berry fruit with a little cola tinge at the edge. A delicious weight on entry, sweet, defined and aromatic, showing a fresh and sappy composition but with a lot of structure underneath. Lots of extract in the midpalate and finish. This is appealing but it is rather tight at present. Firm and a little short. But overall, good. 15-16+/20

Chateau Petrus 2007: A rich, sweet, dark and creamy nose. Real depth here, some purity to it, and a bright fruit character. Rich, plenty of substance, but balanced, firm, grippy and fresh. Deliciously direct style, broad and expressive, with a good style. Pure but deep and characterful with good vigour, this has excellent potential. 17-18+/20

Chateau Le Pin 2007: Even Le Pin could not escape the effects of the vintage; August here was as wet as everywhere else. There was a saignée of about 10% of the must. Despite this volumes were higher than expected, with the wine filling about 36 barrels rather than the anticipated 27. The wine itself has rich and deep fruit on the nose, presented in a svelte, pure, dark fashion, along with a layer of that creamy oak. The palate has a similarly pure character, with a silky composition and an elegant style. Pure fruit, with rising tannins in the midpalate, this wine is structured but deeply characterful. The tannins are exquisitely integrated though, and there is a great harmony throughout. Excellent potential here. 17-18+/20

Chateau Plince 2007: A very deeply fruited nose, dark in style, with a little cola quality, and a little perfume too. One the palate it is quite together, appealing, somewhat unpretentious and supple. Through the midpalate the tannins reveal a hard edge, and there is a stony character to the fruit. Nice tannic grip though. Firm, and more tannins at the finish. Fairly good. 14-15+/20

Chateau La Pointe 2007: This has a slightly jammy quality to the fruit aromas, which are rich and sweet. The palate seems very modern in style, rich and soft, creamy and flattering, with less prominent acidity at first. There are some finely presented acids apparent in the midpalate though, as well as a welling up of firm, extracted tannins. Simply piles of grip here. The extraction is on the edge for me. 13.5-14.5+/20

Chateau Providence 2007: Sweet creamy vanilla, sweet new oak, black pepper and spice on the nose. The palate is rather flashy in its styling but it has plenty of charisma too. The wine is supple and balanced, despite its rich, creamy, soft and flattering nature. The tannins are ripe and sit nicely with the substance of the wine. Overall, really very good potential here. 16-17+/20

Chateau Trotanoy 2007: Very direct, well defined, fresh and lifted plums and black fruits here. This is delightful. An attractive substance follows on the palate, with good flesh supported by appropriate acidity and ripe tannins. Approachable, stylish, with good grip and substance. This sample has vigour and definition, and I like it very much. Really very good potential here. 16.5-17.5+/20

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