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Bordeaux 2007: The Médoc Communes
Bordeaux 2007
En primeur
The Médoc Communes
Looking at the communes of the Médoc, from grand first growth properties and super-seconds, down to Cru Bourgeois estates on humbler terroirs, is where we see the 2007 vintage laid bare. There are some very good wines here; not necessarily wines that would stack up against their counterparts from greater vintages such as 2005, but very good wines nevertheless. But there are also a great number of less interesting wines; not many truly bad wines, with just a handful showing overtly green, unripe characteristics, but simple and serviceable wines that are likely to do their work from the restaurant lists of the future. Many do not show a lot of substance, body, flesh or texture, call it what you will, through the midpalate, and thus the tannins are quite exposed here instead of appearing at the finish as we might hope. The acidities are good enough, and in fact many wines resemble analytically - looking at the IPT (basically, tannins) and acidity levels - the 2006s, despite the fact that they taste very different on the palate. Some wines, however, including some leading names of these communes, were surprisingly underwhelming.
At Margaux tales were told of the miraculous recovery, as I have described in my introduction, that these wines represent, the vintage saved here by three weeks of warm weather and a dry wind, ridding the vineyard of mildew and oidium at a glance. Here 20% of the harvest went into generic Margaux, higher than the usual figure which which since 1997 has typically been 5-10%. The pickers arrived at the property on September 28th, but only began work in the vineyard on October 1st, starting with the Merlot. The Cabernet Sauvignon was ready for harvesting just two days later on October 3rd, long before the Merlot had all been gathered in. As I have already discussed this is very unusual, as the Cabernet would not usually ripen until a week or two after the Merlot, but it reflects the unusual climactic conditions of the year. Merlot, planted on cooler clay soils, needed extended ripening after the disappointingly chilly summer, whereas the Cabernets, on gravel, faired better.

At Palmer, CEO Thomas Duroux told me that flowering took three weeks, leading to fruit of different maturity on the vines. Harvest usually takes two weeks to complete, but with this vintage it was stretched out over four weeks. This is Palmer's most drawn out harvest ever. The yields were low, with 37 hl/ha at this estate, the smallest harvest here since 1991. Further north at Pichon-Baron a similar story was presented, a story of low yields - 34 hl/ha over the estates as a whole (including Pibran), but 32 hl/ha at Pichon itself. Here 60% of the harvest went into the grand vin, as was the case in 2006, but as there was a smaller harvest this means a reduction in the absolute quantity of Pichon-Baron produced, although the quantity of the second wine, Les Tourelles, would remain the same.
In fact, everywhere you turn in the communes of the Médoc (and elsewhere), you are presented with the same script. This is a small harvest, partly due to yields reduced by disease, partly due to severe selection and rejection of substandard fruit. Naturally such actions are worthy of praise, and tell us why drinkable wines have been made in this very difficult vintage which, twenty years ago, may have been an irrevocable disaster. The cynic in me, of course, sees the 'small harvest' story as the beginning of the justification for why prices can not be drastically reduced. If so this is a shame for drinkers, as these wines not are worth purchasing en primeur unless prices are very favourable; by that I mean down at 2002 levels. (9/4/08)
The Médoc Communes 2007: Tasting Notes
Tasted in Bordeaux in April 2008. Click
to locate stockists.
Chateau Lafon-Rochet 2007:
This has an unusual character on the nose, nutty and gamey. There is some
spiced, rather plummy fruit, but no flesh or
flattery through the midpalate, This is very firm, overtly St Estèphe in style,
and shows a very bare, hard structure through the midpalate. Hard, aggressive
grip, and a sweet and gritty finish. A difficult wine. 13.5-14.5+/20
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Chateau Montrose 2007: This
is 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot,
with 60% new barrels.
A dense hue, and on the nose little more than some smoky, brooding fruit. Very
complete style on the palate, easy and approachable with some substance. The
tannins are well covered, and there is some texture which is impressive for the
vintage. It seems ripe, and impressive in terms of its dry structure. Fresh
acids too. There is some potential here. 16-17+/20
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La Dame de Montrose 2007: The second wine
of Montrose is 68% Cabernet Sauvignon
and 32% Merlot, and 15% new barrels. An appealing crimson rim.
Sweet vanilla and blackcurrant on the nose, but also an overt green character.
Nicely balanced on the palate, the tannins seem ripe despite the unripe aromas.
Not very well defined or vigorous on the palate, but it is softly approachable
despite the structure underneath. 13-14+/20
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Chateau Tronquoy-Lalande 2007: A bright
presence of fruit here, tinged with liquorice, with an intense, crunchy-stony
character. More texture on entry than the Sainte Anne (the second wine) below, which persists.
Broader and a little more concentrated. Peppery grip at the end. Riper, and
certainly a step up, but the intrinsic quality isn't really there. 13-14+/20
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Chateau Tronquoy de Sainte Anne 2007: The second wine of Tronquoy-Lalande. An
overt green note here on the nose. Fresh and crunchy fruit alongside, but this
is certainly on of the greener samples assessed on this trip. Notes of orange
peel. Nice weight on entry, gentle, rather lean midpalate though, peppery
tannin. This has a light presence although there is a rounded edge to it, and
some balance. 12-13+/20
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Chateau d'Armailhac 2007:
Good plummy fruit on the nose here, quite full and expressive, and
a little firmer than the corresponding barrel sample of Clerc-Milon. Supple,
with classic structure underneath. An appealing composition, firm acidity. This
is a wine with some potential. 15-16+/20
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Chateau Batailley 2007: Very sweet, overt, cola-tinged fruit on the nose which doesn't hold a
lot of appeal for me. Nevertheless, the palate starts off quite supple, fresh
and clean. But there is a firm and broad tannic base very evident through the
midpalate and a firm acidic core. There is quite some extraction here.
14.5-15.5+/20
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Chateau Clerc-Milon 2007:
Rather open on the nose, with some nutty oak and sweet black fruits. The palate
is fairly gentle, attractive, with a little supple flesh. That tannins are
fairly well covered. It shows ripeness, and has a good structure, which doesn't
really show through until the finish. 15-16+/20
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Chateau Croizet-Bages 2007: A sweet, light and lifted nose here. It is quite rounded and
supple, although not showing a lot of direction or vigour here. Softly composed
on the palate, with ripe and gentle tannins with a balanced undercurrent of
acidity. Soft and sweetly attractive, but it lacks precision. 12.5-13.5+/20
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Chateau Duhart-Milon
2007: This was tasted between Carruades and Lafite, and it struggled in
this setting. Less expressive, and a rather gamey character to the fruit. The
palate is similarly ungiving, although it shows rather nice texture and well
covered tannins. No greenness. Broad, with more grip and a good texture.
Reserved, but demonstrating good potential. 15-16+/20
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Chateau Grand-Puy-Ducasse 2007:
The fruit here is very well hidden under a layer of charry oak, but there is a nice sweetness to it. On
the palate, though, there is a lot of extract apparent and it seems rather hard
to me as a result. The midpalate throws out a rather bitter, sharp, needling
character. I think this has been over-worked. 12-13+/20
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Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral 2007:
An appealing nose, although the fruit is somewhat dominated by the oak at present.
Rather a gentle character to the palate at first, soft and supple, but with a
firm grip beneath. There is not a lot of flesh or texture. Obvious tannic
structure. Short. 13.5-14.5+/20
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Chateau Lafite-Rothschild
2007: In this vintage just 38% of the harvest went into the grand vin,
and the blend is 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 15% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot.
A dense and brooding nose, yet sweet and freshly appealing. Very balanced style,
very approachable, stylish and structured. Lots of sweet and ripe fruit here,
and a harmonious quality. Good grip, good acidity, but a sweetness and silkiness
to the texture as well. This is surprisingly integrated and appealing. For the
vintage, an impressive wine. 17-18+/20
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Carruades de Lafite 2007: The second wine of
Lafite-Rothschild which is 44% Merlot, 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet
Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. A fine, deep, fruit intensity; I find this impressive.
Very finely poised on entry, balanced here, persistent and a touch creamy. A
good, toffee-edged finish with a little sweetness and richness here. Supple,
elegantly balanced, and with gentle acidity, grip and extract. A very good
second wine, and certainly superior to Les Forts de Latour. 15.5-16.5+/20
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Chateau Latour 2007: A
blend of 91% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% Merlot in the 2007 vintage.
Rather unyielding on the nose, revealing a little sweet stony fruit with time.
Reserved and fairly classic, also showing a little tobacco character but it
remains much tighter than the other wines shown here. There is a more flattering
character on the palate, although it is still devoid of any real flesh. The
tannins seem to slowly build through the palate, and these are nicely balanced
with the acidity. The tannins, grip and tightness are perhaps to be expected,
but I was anticipating more flesh or substance. A note of caution here for
Latour lovers. 16-17+?/20
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Les Forts de Latour 2007: The second wine of
Latour, 59% Cabernet Sauvignon and
41% Merlot. Rather organic quality on the nose, some better fruit than the
generic Pauillac (the third wine) below,
but also a minerally and stony character. With a little time it shows a more
open, tobacco-tinged character. Very reserved on the palate, with a lot of
peppery midpalate structure. Grippy and a but hard, through to the finish which
is unyielding and stony. Short, but decent Pauillac. 14-15+/20
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Pauillac de Chateau Latour 2007: The third wine of
Latour,
comprising 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot and 7% petit Verdot, marketed as a
generic Pauillac. It
has a stony freshness on the nose, but it doesn't seem to be expressing any
fruit. Firm on entry, quite a lot of midpalate tannin, grippy with no flesh.
A gentle weight and a lot of structure. 13-14+/20
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Chateau Lynch-Bages 2007:
Lots of sweet and nutty oak on the nose here, and some spiced plum fruit. It has
an appealing presence on the palate, a very gentle style, and not a lot of
vigour or direction. There is quite some grip behind it though. The
concentration isn't particularly impressive. 13-14+/20
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Chateau Pibran 2007: An
attractive, sweet, open nose here, showing accessible fruit, which is 55%
Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Merlot. A touch buttery, from the oak, but a cool
style. Lots of structure, nice flesh too, a little touch of austerity, quite
classic and firmly composed. Decent wine. 13.5-14.5+/20
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Chateau Pichon-Baron 2007:
At Pichon-Baron, 60% of the harvest went into the grand vin, higher than
some other leading estates. Cabernet dominates, at 74%, the balance being Merlot. This has a very appealing nose, intense fruit, with
a floral and aromatic character. Nicely textured, gently weighty, with good grip
showing towards the finish. Firmly structured, not flattering, a touch austere
rather than fleshy. Overall, though, good. 16-17+/20
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Les Tourelles de Longuville 2007: The second wine of
Pichon-Baron, with 62%
Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc. A rather
flashy, open, stylish nose here, showing pretty and attractive fruit. An
appealing palate showing uncomplicated style, gentle flesh and a nice balance.
Rather firm tannins showing just on the finish. This has a good quality.
14-15+/20
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Chateau Pontet-Canet 2007:
This sample has a rather inexpressive nose today, showing some fresh redcurrant
fruit. It has a nicely composed palate, rather gentle and integrated, with a
good ripe structure, nicely covered by some texture to the fruit. It has an
elegant style, with ripe tannins showing at the finish, and overall has a good
substance and poise for the vintage. 16-17+/20
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Chateau Beychevelle 2007:
This has attractive fruit on the nose, which is open and expressive. There is a
moderate weight on the palate, a nice and gently composed structure, although
there is a grittiness to it. This has good structure and also some potential.
15-16+/20
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Chateau Branaire-Ducru 2007:
This has some very sweet fruit on the nose, with a bright bramble and blackberry
character, painted with a little oak. On the palate it has a very cool style
which is stony, but ripe and clean. It is attractive, but shows leanness through
the midpalate and reveals a firm structure here. Quite nicely styled, with some
potential. 15-16+/20
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Chateau Gruaud-Larose 2007:
This has beautiful fruit on the nose, with exotic notes of cashew nut and
liquorice over the oak. A good texture on the palate, supple and even a little
silky. Underneath, a rather firm core of tannin; it has a firmness as a result,
but it is balanced and has good acidity. This is attractive and appealing, and
potentially one of the better wines of the appellation based on this sample.
16-17+/20
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Chateau Lagrange
2007: An inexpressive wine today, showing very little character on the nose.
The palate is similarly reticent in terms of revealing any flavour or scent.
There is a lot of structure, with overt tannins suggestive of rather aggressive
extraction, and firm acids. There is just no fruit detectable, and this
certainly seems rather awkward at present. Difficult to judge. 13-14+?/20
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Chateau Langoa-Barton 2007:
A lifted and aromatic style, showing attractive peppery redcurrants. A
nice palate, rather stony, rather reserved, a vin de garde perhaps.
Rather classic, with light redcurrant fruit matching the nose. Leafy, and in
fact just a trace of green. Underneath, the firm grip of the vintage.
14.5-15.5+/20
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Chateau Léoville-Barton 2007:
There is some sweet fruit showing on the nose here, but it is not the most
expressive nose. It has a reserved quality of aroma, and on the palate a very
cool, stony and detached presence. A very upright and firm composition, the
tannins hard but well hidden. Rather sandy fruit. Another classic, vin de garde
which has good potential. 15.5-16.5+/20
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Chateau Léoville-Las-Cases
2007: Cabernet dominates, with 58% Sauvignon and 5% Franc, then 35%
merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. Dark and attractive fruit here, rather floral aromas, with
impressive dark fruit sweetness. Appealing, without showing overt or
overpowering oak at this stage. Impressive palate, some flesh and sweet fruit, a
good balance, and a nice texture over the tannins. Ripe, pervasive, but nicely
poised. Good harmony. This has very good potential indeed. 16.5-17.5+/20
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Clos de Marquis 2007: The second wine of
Léoville-Las-Cases. Firm black
fruits, quite aromatic but with very firm and reserved fruit rather than
anything pretty or floral. A firm palate, good weight through the midpalate,
classically composed wine. Nice balanced of tannins and flesh. Pretty good.
14.5-15.5+/20
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Chateau Léoville-Poyferré 2007:
A very flattering, rounded nose showing attractive clean fruit and some new oak.
A good density, greater than many of its peers in this vintage. More obvious forepalate concentration, and a nice creaminess in the midpalate. A
supple composition, well covered ripe tannins and balanced acidity. Very good
potential here. 16-17+/20
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Chateau Saint-Pierre 2007:
A lovely presence of open fruit, expressive and pretty. Showing a lot of
smoky and toasty oak at present, but that is quite normal at this stage.
Appealing and supple, a very firm core of tannins, moderate fruit and flesh.
Firmly composed, classic style, good acidity and bright fruit character. It has
the potential to drink well. 14.5-15.5+/20
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Chateau Talbot 2007:
A nice, forward, open nose showing some crunchy fruit and with an edge of green.
Supple and elegant on the palate, an appealing style, tannins well covered, with
clean lines although also showing some greenness to the fruit. This has some
attractive components, but the fruit ripeness may deter many. 15-16+/20
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Chateau Brane-Cantenac 2007:
Dark and spicy fruit here, although it is not hugely expressive. There is a
soft, rounded, creamy quality on the palate, which is gentle and rather
understated. There are spicy tannins and a well balanced character, but this
lacks energy, and has a short finish. 13-14+/20
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Chateau Durfort-Vivens 2007:
There are aromas of rich fruit and some new oak here. Cool on entry, quite
stylish, with bright red-black fruits. This sample has a dry midpalate
extraction, with a drying, smoky, dark fruit finish. It has the necessary
structure to develop. 14.5-15.5+/20
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Chateau Ferrière 2007: An attractive, open, gentle but lifted character on the nose. It is not
overly expressive. Soft and supple on the palate, with gentle tannins and a firm
acidity. There is an appealing grip, and more extract becoming apparent at the
finish. It is a little drying here. But there is a little length. 14.5-15.5+/20
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Chateau Giscours 2007: This
has some appealing black, complex, lifted fruits on the nose, with a vanilla
twist. Freshly composed on the palate, with appealing structure. Elegance, with
a ripe fleshed out midpalate, and a little chewiness to the tannins. A sappy
finish, where the tannins persist. A nice acidic structure. Could be good based
on this sample. 15-16+/20
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Chateau Kirwan 2007: Black
fruits and exotic spices on the nose. Soft on entry, not very well defined, and
then showing a lot of extract in the midpalate. A very sharp, green apple
acidity, and not a lot of direction here. Lots of extracted tannin throughout,
and a drying finish. This seems overdone to me. 13-14+/20
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Chateau Lascombes 2007:
This sample is packed to the rafters with with spicy new oak, which dominates on
the nose. It has an immediately apparent creamy style on entry, and with
considerable extract. Green peppercorns, spice, dry wood tannins, this all seems
too much for this vintage. 13-14+/20
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Chateau Malescot St-Exupéry 2007:
This is very pure in style on the nose, and rather expressive, with a wealth of
deep cassis fruit. Dense and a little spicy, pure and rounded, but with a little
less texture and depth than I was expecting. Nevertheless, it is quite grippy,
firm and structured, and that grip comes out a lot on the finish. Firm with a
good presence of acidity. Good wine but there are some that overshadow it in
this tasting. 15.5-16.5+/20
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Chateau Margaux 2007:
This year the grand vin accounts for just 32% of the harvest, and at 87%
Cabernet Sauvignon predominates, with 11% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. Alcohol
13.2%. There is a great concentration of fruit on the nose, a spicy and elegant
style, with a fresh and stony lift. Full, balanced, with a good backbone of
tannin, fine acids and a lovely balance, but there is also substance and style.
It opens out in the glass to reveal some peppery perfume. Impressive stuff; not
a truly great Margaux by a long shot, but in the context of this vintage, really
very good indeed. 16.5-17.5+/20
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Pavillon Rouge de Margaux 2007: The second wine of
Margaux, this is 58% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 37% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. Alcohol 13.2%. There is a lovely
aromatic character here, pure and elegant, and lifted. Nice flesh on entry,
gentle tannins which are nicely covered, and fresh acids. A lovely balance and
freshness, but there is some substance here too. Fleshy, with some grip at the
finish. Just a little green peppercorn edge. Nice. 15-16+/20
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Pavillon Blanc de Margaux 2007: In truth this, the white wine of
Margaux, has the Bordeaux Blanc
appellation, but I have included it here for simplicity's sake. It is 100%
Sauvignon Blanc, fermented in oak, one-third new, and 50% of the wine underwent
batonnage on the lees. The alcohol is a whopping 15.5%, although you
would not think it quite this high on tasting. Fresh and aromatic on the nose,
pure and rather green in style. Full rather peppery, with an inordinate amount
of grip on the palate reflecting the use of oak I think. Very structured, and
despite that high alcohol level very good. 16-17+/20
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Chateau Marquis de Terme 2007:
A dark, slightly meaty, macerated fruit feel to the nose, with a background of
vanilla. The palate gives some pleasure, starting with a bright, fleshy, pulpy
weight which surrounds an appealing tannic core. There is moderate substance,
with nice grip. It is not as harmonious as some, but there is a nice definition
and it will certainly be good enough to drink. 15-16+/20
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Chateau Palmer 2007: Alcohol
12.5%, and 50% new oak. Just 40% of the harvest went into the grand vin
this year, and Merlot is the lead variety at 49%, with 44% Cabernet Sauvignon
and 7% Petit Verdot. This is expressive, showing spicy complex fruit
presented in a fresh and appealing style. Fine, fresh and mineral style on the
palate, not weighty but elegant, sappy and harmonious. A complete and well
composed style, and a ripe tannin core. A very lovely expression. A lighter
style of Palmer but it captures the vintage rather nicely, and has very good
potential. 16-17+/20
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Alter Ego de Palmer 2007: Alcohol 12.5%, and 30% new oak, a blend of
60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. The second wine of
Palmer, accounting for 50% of the harvest in 2007.
A fresh and floral nose, slightly meaty, with a sandy mineral character. On the
palate, a fresh and immediate stony quality, not fleshy but structured, with
obvious tannins coming through. Fresh, gently textured, harmonious and sappy,
with a clean finish. 14.5-15.5+/20
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Chateau Prieuré-Lichine 2007:
Dark and rather handsomely styled fruit on the nose, and an attractive, pure,
rounded, rather seamless character on the palate. The tannins are well covered
at first, but have a very firm nature, and provide a rather fierce grip at the
finish. Nevertheless there is a fresh, attractive crispness to the fruit, which
has a cranberry and blackcurrant leaf character, and overall this has a nice,
upright style. As is the case with a number of other wines, provided the fruit
and texture outlasts the tannins, this could be very good indeed. 16.5+/20
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Chateau Rauzan-Gassies 2007: This is considerably more reticent on the
nose than the Rauzan-Ségla, but it has some attractive fruit alongside the oak.
Supple, rounded, becoming a little more lean through the midpalate. Appealing,
peppery, ripe and dense tannins and good acidity. Some perfume here, a grippy
finish, and a rather aromatic length. Good, but it just lacks a little
precision. 15-16+/20
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Chateau Rauzan-Ségla 2007:
Lovely fruit here, it is presented in a very open and accessible style. Firm,
perhaps a touch burly, certainly not the apparent elegant nature of some other
wines, but on the palate it has a nice approach, and a soft and almost creamy
texture which covers the firm tannic backbone very well. Ripe and dense, but
with a brightness to the fruit here. Lifted and potentially very good.
15.5-16.5+/20
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Chateau Siran 2007: Lots of new oak on the nose here, which I find rather surprising. Nice
fruit as well though. The palate shows a good texture on entry, but it is
immediately followed by chewy tannins, trying unsuccessfully to hide under the
soft flesh of the wine. A touch rustic. 13.5-14.5+/20
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Chateau du Tertre 2007: Rather
meaty and aromatic on the nose, full and open, showing red berry fruits but in a
rich style. Rather creamy, nicely balanced, with a gentle harmony at the outset.
Supple midpalate tannins give an attractive structure, but there is grip here,
and it is well framed. Good. 15-16+/20
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Chateau Potensac 2007: A
little more perfume here, and dark fruits. Firm character, but a touch sweeter
with a more flattering start than the Chapelle, the second wine. Rounded, a little creamy flesh,
but with tannins ripe and firm showing in the midpalate. Firmly structure. Could
be good with time. 14.5-15.5+/20
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Chapelle de Potensac 2007: The second wine of
Potensac. A little less aromatic than
the grand vin, subtle fruit and new oak here, although there was only 10%
used. It seems quite apparent despite that. A nice entry, midpalate tannins, without the
flesh to cover them. Very overt structure and some unwelcome austerity.
12-13+/20
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Chateau Preuillac 2007: Smoky, charcoaly fruit showing a lot of new
oak here although this is over represented in the sample and will only influence
33% of the final blend. A nice, gentle substance, a nice tannic grip, and decent
acidity. Straightforward, nicely composed wine. 14.5-15.5+/20
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Chateau Sociando-Mallet
2007: Firm fruit, more aromatic and open than La Demoiselle, showing a
brighter character. It is 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Cabernet
Franc. Some flash on the palate, moderate midpalate substance, with firm tannins
apparent throughout. Some weight, and grip on the finish. Gentle in terms of
fruit and flesh, but very firmly composed. 14-15+/20
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La Demoiselles de Sociando-Mallet 2007: The second wine of
Sociando-Mallet. Rather reserved
on the nose, with a slightly medicinal quality to the fruit. Gentle palate, a
little sweetness, but overt structure. A little freshness and sappiness to it,
but overall not the substance for the firm acidity and structure I think.
12.5-13.5+/20
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