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Bordeaux 2003: The Médoc Communes
Bordeaux 2003
At Two Years
The Médoc Communes
As you travel further north on the left bank the wines seem to show a tangible improvement. Sadly this tasting, although offering comprehensive coverage of the Haut-Médoc communes of Pauillac, St Julien and Margaux (provided you allow for the absence of the first growths and certain other high-flying chateaux), did not offer a really good sampling of St Estèphe properties (just four at the tasting, of which I tasted two) or of those properties further north, the true Médoc (just two properties, and I managed to taste neither). Nevertheless, of the three largest left bank communes, I tasted a very representative sample. And it was clear that here, although a few wines showed poorly, there were more successes than in Pessac-Léognan.
I think Pauillac is the commune that shows the most success, as measured by consistency across the commune; some wines were very good indeed, showing balance, texture and a well knitted structure on the palate. Pichon-Lalande leads the way here. St Julien was also a success for some chateaux, although here there was a rather more naked tannic structure in some wines. But this is the nature, to some extent, of young St Julien. But Lagrange was a real disappointment, probably the least successful left bank wine of the tasting. Nevertheless, I suspect a number of these wines will be just fine with time in the cellar.
In Margaux, there were a number of successes, but largely from the regular performers such as Rauzan-Ségla and Malescot. Look away from these and you can find some disappointing wines. Hats off to d'Angludet though; admittedly a Cru Bourgeois favourite of mine, but if the wines were to be judged on how they showed the Margaux style, d'Angludet would be a serious contender in 2003. (26/10/05)
The Médoc Communes 2003: Tasting Notes
Tasted at the UGC de Bordeaux tasting in October 2005. Click
to locate stockists.
Chateau Les Ormes de Pez 2003: A pleasing nose; nutty, with some
pickling spice intensity, and notes of beetroot fruit. Pleasant palate, a little
suppleness to it, but also rather a burnt feeling to the tannins. Seems
extracted and rather brawny. Quite obvious acidity too. It all seems a little
out of kilter. Merely quite good. 14.5/20
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Chateau Lafon Rochet 2003: A really deep, glossy colour here. Rich and
intense on the nose, with ripe fruit in abundance, with a floral, slightly
exotic, pickling spice note. Ripe, supple entry, although this favourable
impression fades a little through the midpalate, although it maintains a healthy
presence of super-ripe fruit and succulent texture. Piles of tannins, quite an
exposed unknit structure, but I think there is the fruit and substance to cope
with this in the cellar. Very good potential. 16.5+/20
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Chateau Batailley 2003: Subtle, rather muted on the nose. Not brimming
with texture or character on the palate, and showing very firm, prominent
tannins too. Decent weight, and rather firm acidity, but really all structure
and little else at present. Brawny style. Merely quite good. 14.5/20
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Chateau Clerc-Milon 2003: A dense, quite powerful, masculine nose,
showing ripe, brawny, exotic, macerated cherry fruit, with a nutty element of
unresolved oak. Firm, structured palate, with not a lot of character. Rather
ripe, grippy but prominent tannins give a firm structured feel to the palate.
Decent acidity. Good. 15/20
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Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral 2003: Good, youthful and fresh fruit on the nose, still with some
nutty oak. Ripe and rounded fruit on the palate, and here we have ripe, supple,
slightly meaty tannins nicely knitted into the fruit and texture that this wine
possesses. A supple mouthfeel, firm fruit and a lovely style. A success for
Clare Villars. Very good potential. 16.5+/20
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Chateau Lynch-Bages 2003: A nice, nutty, macerated fruit nose,
although not the most expressive. Nice, cool style on entry, well structured
with ripe and supple tannins, again nicely knitted into the fruit and texture.
Dark fruit flavour profile. Sadly acidity rather on the low side. Will make good
mid-term drinking though. 16+/20
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Chateau Pichon-Baron 2003: A rather muted nose compared with
Pichon-Lalande, although still showing exotic, perfumed and violet-infused black
fruits with a roasted nut edge. Succulent, creamy, with firm tannins, quite well
knitted together with the substance of the wine. Full, exotic, slightly brawny,
but with good acidity. There is some finesse here, and overall it's a touch more
exciting than young Pichon-Baron usually is. Lovely floral-tinged finish. A
success! 17.5+/20
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Chateau Pichon-Lalande 2003: A great nose here, of intense, dark
fruits swirled with raspberry compote, tinged with cashew nuts. But it is
seductive and restrained rather than slutty. Lovely, creamy, raspberry scented
fruit, fine elegance and texture. Beautifully structured, supple and well put
together. Nut and toffee influenced finish. In parts, quite gorgeous. A success!
18+/20
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Chateau Pontet-Canet 2003: Dark, super-macerated, super-ripe fruit. A
fat, sexy style on entry, with a creamy texture carrying a raft of exotic,
spiced and peppered fruit. Beneath it all there's a big, brawny structure,
although rather soft acidity, engendering a fat, opulent finish. The tannins
coat the mouth here. I think there is sufficient substance to carry these
tannins. Very good. 17/20
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Chateau Beychevelle 2003: Ripe, pressed blackcurrant nose, with a
suggestion of creamy white chocolate. Ripe, restrained, but succulent and
appealing. Plenty of elegantly styles fruit. Firm tannin, firm acidity too,
altogether nice structure, texture a little creamy. Not quite the substance I
might have hoped for. But should drink well. 15.5+/20
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Chateau Branaire-Ducru 2003: Not very expressive, but with sweet,
blackcurranty fruit on the nose. Attractive palate. Restrained, elegant, with
appealing texture. The acidity is a little low, and there is quite a show of
tannins. Again this should show some improvement in the cellar. 15.5+/20
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Chateau Gruaud-Larose 2003: An expressive nose here, with ripe dark
cherry fruit. This has classic masculine Gruaud on the palate, with a very firm
core of tannins running through a more supple, near seamless presence of fruit.
It has decent acidity too. For fans of the style, this might just do. Good.
16+/20
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Chateau Lagrange
2003: Whoa! An unusual nose here; confected,
cola-aniseed-cherry nose with a lifted, estery nature. Rather light on entry,
but picks up through the midpalate, with some rounded morello cherry fruit and
firm tannin. Little in the way of presence or texture, and incongruous acidity.
What's gone wrong here? One to avoid. 13/20
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Chateau Langoa-Barton 2003: A lovely, almost exotic dark fruit nose.
Quite captivating although hardly typical blueberry and blackberry aromas.
Succulent palate, good ripe fruit, with a firm core of tannins. Good acidity. A
little violet edge to the flavour. This is good claret - well done. 16+/20
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Chateau Léoville-Barton 2003: Denser, more showy than the Langoa.
Deeper, richer, darker damson fruit. And it's more supple on the palate, with a
balanced style, and a ripe, succulent character. It does also show a firmer core
of admittedly creamy tannins, however, although there is plenty of sweet, dark
black fruits. This has good substance and potential for the cellar. 17+/20
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Chateau Léoville-Poyferré 2003: Dark, exotic fruit nose. Damsons, with
a hint of blackcurrant. Ripe, balanced, seamless structure. It has a gentle
elegance, with creamy fruit and a peppery edge. Really gentle, fine tannins and
correct acidity. This is very good indeed. Certainly the equal of Léoville
Barton, if not slightly ahead. 17+/20
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Chateau Talbot 2003: Dark, macerated, blackberry fruit, with a buttery
edge from the residual fruit. Sweet, with immediate impact on entry. Grippy,
structured, but packed with loads of blackberry fruit. Nice texture and
substance here. After a weak 2002 this vintage is a success for Talbot. 16+/20
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Chateau d'Angludet 2003: Nice, fresh, lifted black fruit on the nose,
with perfume and gravelly, stony-mineral character. Pleasing texture; ripe,
succulent, almost creamy edge, with supple tannins and correct acidity. Really
pleasant, well managed extract. There is good drinking potential here. A
success! 16.5/20
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Chateau Cantenac-Brown 2003: Rather dense, brawny fruit. Muted,
macerated black cherry fruit. Ripe, with soft acidity. Lots of (over-)extracted
character, light texture, low acidity, showing the heat of the vintage for sure.
Completely out of kilter. 14/20
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Chateau du Tertre 2003: Lovely, forward, open nose here, with
perfumed, Margaux character. Rather gentle attack on the palate. Ripe, lithe and
balanced, with just sufficient acidity. Supple, peppery tannins and quite marked
(and welcome) violet and floral perfume. This is good. 16+/20
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Chateau Durfort-Vivens 2003: Creamy-berry fruit and white chocolate
nose. Lithe, supple, creamy edge to the attack, but completely loses it all
through the midpalate. Lacks presence, flavour, style and character. Although
the tannins are, in its favour, not over done. But not a success. 15/20
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Chateau Ferrière 2003: A really lifted nose here, showing fresh
blackcurrant and blackberry fruit. How refreshing. Lovely ripe texture on entry,
with beautiful style. The tannins are completely in keeping with the fruit and
acidity. Ripe and supple presence, really crisp style with freshness, not seen
that often in this vintage. Ferrière goes from strength to strength; another
success for Clare Villars. 17/20
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Chateau Giscours 2003: Lovely, lifted and expressive, mineral-tinged
fruit here. A delightful impact. Lovely, rounded structure on the palate, which
shows a creamy style with nicely knitted tannins, and elegant presence and good
balance. Firm acidity and overall very good structure. A success. 17+/20
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Chateau Kirwan 2003: Macerated cherry fruit with a pleasing although
atypical toasted brioche character to the nose. Full, creamy palate, firm and
structured, but with cherry fruit overlaid. Ripe and a little brawny, rather
one-dimensional and simple. But it is young, and the structure and balance are
there. Very good potential here. 16.5+/20
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Chateau Lascombes 2003: Exotic nose, pickling spices, and a great
depth of fruit. This is distinctive and certainly denotes a wine of quality.
Full, creamy presence on the palate, with firm, ripe, peppery tannins which show
particularly on the endpalate. Decent acidity. It doesn't show much Margaux
character, but is ripe, well-knit and certainly impressive. Despite criticism
surrounding lack of typicité, I certainly prefer this to the Lascombes of
old. 17/20
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Chateau Malescot St-Exupéry 2003: A touch of perfume here, with
mineral-tinged fruit and a nutty edge from some residual oak. Lovely cool,
stylish entry, but then quite structured and fine through the midpalate, with
some precise fruit. Good acidity, a lovely blackberry style of fruit, and a
perfumed edge. Nice grippy finish, but the tannins shouldn't cause any
difficulties here. 17+/20
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Chateau Marquis de Terme 2003: Rather closed nose. Pleasing texture on
entry, but light style through the midpalate, lacking impact, and devoid of
character and balanced structure. Not a success at all. 13/20
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Chateau Prieuré-Lichine
2003: Nice nose; rather muted, but showing
some primary black fruits, and with a cashew nut, oak-derived aroma. Good
texture of fruit on the palate, but with very firm tannins. Ripe, dark, slightly
nutty, but with more tannins than the fruit can cope with at present. 15.5/20
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Chateau Rauzan-Ségla 2003: A blend of nuts and black fruit on the nose
here. This is promising. Nice, supple style on entry, then a core of ripe
tannins well supported by dark black fruits, with a faint floral edge. This has
lovely style; elegance and fresh acidity. Excellent potential here. 17.5+/20
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