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Bordeaux 1989: Tasting, January 2002
It is only two years since I last took a look at the 1989 vintage, that time I concentrated on Margaux and the Southern Médoc. This time the focus was on St Julien, a commune generally regarded as having performed very well in this vintage. This tasting seemed to bear this out, and in fact for many years since these wines crossed my path they have stuck in my mind as some of the most enjoyable I have ever had the good fortune to taste. The vigour, vivacity, energy, call it what you will, these were generally excellent wines that really appealed to my palate which enjoys freshness and definition, found here in plentiful abundance despite the reputation of the vintage as ripe and low in acidity.
Aside from Langoa, which was corked and thus omitted from the notes written up below, the only wine that didn't really show well here was Talbot. Otherwise, these were excellent wines from what seems to be an excellent vintage. (23/1/02)
Bordeaux 1989 - Tasting Notes
Tasted in January 2002. Click
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Chateau Beychevelle (St
Julien) 1989: This has a classic nose, full and rich, still with plenty of
fruit. An elegant structure is evident on the palate, which has fine tannins and
well balanced acidity. Impressive amount of fruit keeping this wine going.
Absolutely lovely. 18/20
Chateau Branaire-Ducru (St
Julien) 1989:
A firm nose here, with
great fruit, but also classic aromas of cedar and pencil
lead. This leads to an equally impressive palate, which
again has great balance and structure. A lovely,
unobtrusive tannic backbone supports some powerful fruit,
with harmonious balanced acidity. This is superb stuff. 18.5/20
Chateau Talbot (St Julien) 1989:
A great nose here, full of dense,
fatty smoke and some inky fruit. The wine is somewhat
ungiving on the palate, however, with firm tannins and
little fruit or elegance. Good body and fine for drinking,
but seems to be lacking in style. Not showing well
tonight. This is the second time I've been somewhat
under-whelmed by Talbot in the 1989 vintage. 16/20
Chateau Saint-Pierre (St Julien) 1989: There is plenty of dense, rich, mineral
fruit on the nose here. The palate carries a beautiful layer of fruit, which is
rich and warm, draped over wonderful structure. Fine tannins and great balance
are this wines strong points. I feel, however, that it lacks any great style or
complexity. There's a tannic twist to the finish. 17/20
Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1989: This wine is a touch inky on
the nose, and has a streak of TCA contamination.
This becomes more apparent on the palate, which although
firm and promising on entry, displays a characteristic
bitterness through the midpalate. Musty edge to what
fruit is there. I'm the only taster that seems concerned
about this wine, so I leave it for a while and return
later. My impression is unchanged. Clear potential, but
marred by cork taint. Not rated.
Chateau
Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1989: Wow! This wine has clear
elegance on the nose. There's a delightful presence of mineral, restrained
fruit. This impression is unchanged with the palate, which has fantastic stony
fruit, with a beautiful structure. Elegant, soft tannins with balanced acidity.
Still seems a little primary, and undoubtedly has some further potential yet.
This is amazing wine, showing very well tonight. 19+/20
