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La Ferme de la Sansonnière
The history of La Ferme de la Sansonnière is not a long one; the current
owner, Mark Angeli, only purchased these vineyards in 1990. Originally from
Provence, first a chemistry graduate and then a stonemason, Angeli loved the
moelleux style and after gaining experience at La Tour Blanche and
Suduiraut in Sauternes he set up in
Thouarcé, which lies on the Layon, at the foot of some of the leading
Bonnezeaux vineyards. As
you would expect, he set about producing the finest examples of Bonnezeaux that
he could possibly
achieve. He increased the density of planting (some recently
established experimental plots have as many as 40000 vines per hectare, about
eight times the typical figure, although this is not typical of the whole
domaine), established new some vineyards using ungrafted stock, went over
entirely to biodynamic viticulture and harvested using any number of tries
through the vineyard. The results were, in short, of very high quality.
But something happened to Angeli along the way. Perhaps it was the desire for a natural wine that reflected the terroir, as evinced by his preference for biodynamism, that convinced him that he should turn away from his beloved moelleux wines? Whatever turned him, for several years now Angeli has been making dry wines from these sites more classically associated with a sweet and heady style. The wines thus fall outside the remit of the Bonnezeaux appellation, and as such are labelled Anjou; the results can be fabulous, wines that transcend both appellations, showing all the weight and honeyed complexity of a great Bonnezeaux but presented in a dry style.
For Angeli, then, this seems to be the way forward; wines that possess the architecture conferred by the vineyards of Bonnezeaux, but presented in usually a dry style, although the 2003 La Lune does show an obvious presence of residual sugar, reflecting the warmth and ripeness of the vintage. La Lune is Angeli's premier cuvée, a finely structured Anjou made in tiny quantities, just 600 cases per annum is typical. Other cuvées, such as Les Fouchardes, a cuvée of softer edges, yet equally fine and nicely structured, are also made in small quantities. There is still a Bonnezeaux in the portfolio, the Coteau du Houet, as well as a seriously styled rosé and a Gamay. But it is La Lune that attracts me most. From a fine vintage such as 2002, this must surely be one of the Loire's greatest wines, showing all the firmness and regal austerity of a great Savennières, but with the welcoming warmth more associated with the wines of the Layon. Move over Claude Papin, make way Jo Pithon. There's a new taker for the crown of King of Anjou. (23/11/06)
Contact details:
Address: 49380 Thouarcé
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 41 54 80 80
Fax: +33 (0) 2 41 54 80 80
La Ferme de la Sansonnière - Tasting Notes
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Domaine de la Sansonnière Anjou La Lune 2005: This has a fine hue, not at all deep, with a gentle straw-coloured
core fading to a wide, clear, watery hue at the rim. The nose begins in a subtle
fashion, but slowly develops a forceful character in the glass, with notes of
honey, straw and ginger cake, and there is a similar feel to the palate,
although here it seems clearly much more exotic. It is ripe and round, full of
honey, moist ginger cake, herbs, straw, candied fruits and more, but with a
fine, tingling spice which provides a reference point around which the other
flavours rotate. Overall it is in a very soft style, with low acidity and a fleshy,
resinous mouthfeel reflecting residual sugar, and a little grip, all no doubt
reflecting the character of the vintage which was warm. But the flavours are
bright, savoury and sappy, and overall this is certainly to be admired. For label images and more see my
Wine of the Week write-up.
From an Artisan Wines tasting.
17/20 (September 2007)
Domaine de la Sansonnière Anjou Les Fouchardes 2004: There is a very
light sediment of potassium tartrate crystals in this pale, straw coloured wine.
A fairly rich nose, of honeyed Chenin cut through with a little lemon, with a
fine, deep, mealy character. Quite a full style on entry, but withdrawing
through the midpalate, as the wines rests on its extract and acidity rather than
presenting any exuberant flesh, but then it opens out again to reveal a real
warmth. A little pithy, a wonderful, firmly structured style supporting lots of
mineral, honey-infused dried fruit. It reads like a sweet wine, but in the mouth
it is rich, rounded, grip and most certainly dry, with a lovely vinosity like
that of a very good white Burgundy. Only better. Very characterful wine, with a
long, dry but richly enveloping, flavoursome finish. 17.5+/20 (November 2006)
Domaine de la Sansonnière Anjou La Lune 2003: This has a richer,
deeper, more golden hue than Les Fouchardes. The nose is fascinating, presenting
a panoply of honey and warm straw, with funky, intense, mineral and stony
characters. It suggests great richness, and indeed on the palate it is
immediately apparent that there is a degree of residual sugar left in this
vintage of this usually dry cuvée. But it's still gorgeous; full and fresh,
grippy and pithy, with mineral and straw character and surely a touch of
botrytis too. A little oily, a little tannic even, but certainly hugely rich and
warmly enveloping. Fabulous wine. Has great potential for the cellar, although
it is lovely now. 17.5+/20 (November 2006)
Domaine de la Sansonnière Anjou La Lune 2002: This also has a deep
golden colour. On the nose, there are undeniable notes of botrytis, with a
complex nose of ginger cake, golden syrup, straw and plenty of funky character.
It has a very fine, mineral quality too. The palate in this vintage is dry,
fresh and pithy, and overall is very stylishly put together. Delightful straw
and mineral character, presented in an firm, upright frame. It culminates with
an intense finish, broadening out, showing real structure and potential here,
forthright, with incredible length. A rich, all-encompassing wine, with
superb, honeyed, nutty, reserved, vinosity. This has much more structure than
the 2003 an is set up for long term ageing. 18+/20 (November 2006)
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