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La Ferme de la Sansonnière

The history of La Ferme de la Sansonnière is not a long one; the current owners, Mark Angeli and his wife Christine, only purchased these vineyards in 1990. Originally from Provence, first a chemistry graduate and then a stonemason, Angeli loved the moelleux style and after gaining experience at La Tour Blanche and Suduiraut in Sauternes he set up in Thouarcé, which lies on the Layon, at the foot of some of the leading Bonnezeaux vineyards. As you would expect, he set about producing the finest examples of Bonnezeaux that he could possibly achieve. He increased the density of planting (some recently established experimental plots have as many as 40000 vines per hectare, about eight times the typical figure, although this is not typical of the whole domaine) and he established new some vineyards using ungrafted stock. Unlike many of his neighbours he eschewed the practice of chaptalisation, adding sugar to the fermenting wine to boost the alcohol content (or just to boost the sweetness) and before long he went over entirely to biodynamic viticulture; the estate is Demeter certified and today Angeli regularly shows the wines at the Association Renaissance des Appellations tastings. The results were, in short, of very high quality.

But something happened to Angeli, who today describes himself as a viticultural paysan solidaire, along the way. This image of himself is a very relevant one, I think; solidaire translates as "interdependent" or "to show solidarity", and I think the paysan (peasant) Angeli is telling is of his interdependence with the vineyard and with nature; he sees himself as merely a cog in a viticultural system or mechanism. It was perhaps this view of himself, and a desire to be closer to nature and to make wines that reflected the terroir, all intertwined with his embracing of biodynamics, that convinced him that he should turn away from his beloved moelleux wines. Whatever it was that drove him, for several years now Angeli has been making dry wines (or at least drier wines, the sweetness depending somewhat on the vintage) from these sites more classically associated with an intensely sweet and heady style. The wines thus fell outside the remit of the Bonnezeaux appellation, and as such were classified as Anjou; the results could be fabulous, wines that transcend both appellations, showing all the weight and honeyed complexity of a great Bonnezeaux but presented in a dry style. But he has now gone beyond even that; Angeli's latest releases are deemed sufficiently atypical to be refused the agrément, the official stamp that deems the wines as suitable for bottling under the Anjou appellation. His 2007s are thus all bottled under the Vin de France designation, in other words Vin de Table.

Today he and Christine tend 12 hectares of land, of which 8 hectares are given over to the vine, whilst perhaps unsurprisingly (this being a ferme, rather than a domaine) the rest is given over to a mix of other crops, with freshly planted apple trees, olive trees, sunflowers, wheat and other cereals. Some of these latter cereals are used to feed Angeli's small herd of cattle which not only provide them with meat and milk, but also generate a steady supply of organic, gently enriching fertiliser for the vineyards. There are chickens and bee hives too; this is very much a return to the polyculture of old, and self sufficiency, rather than the more modern-day monoculture of the vine. Those vines that do exist here are treated quite differently from those in neighbouring vineyards; they are trained into bushes rather than on wires, the vines supporting themselves, and the soils between them are ploughed by horse, Angeli keeping two such animals on the estate for this very purpose. Naturally the harvest is by hand, with several tries in order to potentiate quality.

For Angeli, then, this seems to be the way forward; he makes wines that possess the architecture conferred by the vineyards of Bonnezeaux, but usually presented in a dry style, although the 2003 La Lune does show an obvious presence of residual sugar, reflecting the warmth and ripeness of the vintage. Malolactic fermentation is commonplace here, also adding to the softening of the Angeli style. La Lune (named after the crescentic shape of the vineyard) is his top cuvée, a finely structured Anjou made in tiny quantities, just 600 cases per annum is typical. Other cuvées, such as Les Fouchardes, a cuvée of softer edges, yet equally fine and nicely structured, are also made in small quantities. There is still a Bonnezeaux in the portfolio, the Coteau du Houet, as well as a seriously-styled Rosé d'un Jour made from Grolleau, the colour of which comes from keeping the juice on the skins for just one night (hence the name) and a red cuvée from young vines Les Gelinettes. But it is La Lune that attracts me most; from a fine vintage such as 2002 this wine shows all the firmness and regal austerity of a great Savennières, but with the welcoming warmth more associated with the wines of the Layon. My only niggle of doubt is that, as Angeli pushes the boundaries ever further, he will go too far. An advocate of reducing the use of sulphur, some of his wines have moved readily to oxidation in the past. How the latest releases are going to age, when some of them already show a trace of oxidative complexity (a major contributor to his being refused the agrément, I am sure) within a few months of the vintage, is very difficult to predict. I like the ethos here immensely, and I like the wines too; I'm just not certain of whether I would commit any of them to cellaring. I once suggested that Angeli was the new King of Anjou, and that Claude Papin and similar should watch out. That might still be true, but there is also a risk the king's crown may slip here, I think. (23/11/06, updated 28/4/09)

Contact details:
Address: 49380 Thouarcé
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 41 54 80 80
Fax: +33 (0) 2 41 54 80 80

La Ferme de la Sansonnière - Tasting Notes

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La Ferme de la Sansonnière Rosé d'un Jour 2008: It has a delicious colour, a deep salmon pink, concentrated in hue but very much in the dark salmon-sunset part of the spectrum than vibrant pink. In the bottle there is also a huge presence of sediment, sheets of dark purple crystals as big as my thumbnail floating about, and the wine is also a little pétillant, the bubbles fizzing up as the bottle is opened, and also in the glass and on the palate. On the nose there is liquorice, nettle, creamed strawberry and redcurrant, all wrapped up in a light, lifted freshness. There's a bit of sediment coming through in the glass (perhaps I should have decanted this, not usually necessary for a young rosé!), but otherwise in the mouth this is a delight. At just 11% and slightly pétillant - a carbon dioxide hangover from the fermentation which I suspect will disappear from future bottles - this is very refreshing, and delicious acidity helps in this respect also. There is a little sugar, but only as suggested by the fleshiness of the palate alongside the sparkling structure of the wine - there is no overt sweetness. There's no firmness to this wine, no great definition, but it all hangs together beautifully just the same; lingering on the palate as it does, with its minerally, nettly, redcurrant leaf character. An absolute delight to drink, this is a testament to Angeli, and to why Grolleau must be saved! For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 17.5/20 (May 2009)

La Ferme de la Sansonnière Les Vieilles Vignes des Blanderies (Vin de France) 2007: This has a huge and very expressive nose, showing sweet, candied, dried fruits, with slight oxidative notes suggested by aromas of mealy honey, buttery apple and pastry. The palate is unsurprisingly very rich, broad, with piles of grip but also a good acidity. The fruit profile matches that on the nose, but there is a vivacious, zippy style to it. Long grip at the finish. Potentially very good. Tasted at the 2009 Renaissance tasting. 16.5-17+?/20 (February 2009)

La Ferme de la Sansonnière Les Fouchardes (Vin de France) 2007: This wine has a very similar style to the Blanderies, with more candied-dried fruits. The palate starts off cleanly but again there is a little seam of oxidative character showing through, with more apple-pastry fruit. This has some appeal, but I find it difficult to predict how well this will progress with time. Tasted at the 2009 Renaissance tasting. 15.5-16+?/20 (February 2009)

La Ferme de la Sansonnière La Lune (Vin de France) 2007: This has brighter fruit characteristics on the nose than the first two wines, with a rich and slightly honeyed edge. There is a wealth of very sweet fruit on the palate, with a broad character and huge texture. Dried fruits, firm with plenty of grip and substance, and good acidity too. This has a fine, rather intense style which should do well in bottle. Tasted at the 2009 Renaissance tasting. 17-17.5+?/20 (February 2009)

Domaine de la Sansonnière Anjou La Lune 2005: This has a fine hue, not at all deep, with a gentle straw-coloured core fading to a wide, clear, watery hue at the rim. The nose begins in a subtle fashion, but slowly develops a forceful character in the glass, with notes of honey, straw and ginger cake, and there is a similar feel to the palate, although here it seems clearly much more exotic. It is ripe and round, full of honey, moist ginger cake, herbs, straw, candied fruits and more, but with a fine, tingling spice which provides a reference point around which the other flavours rotate. Overall it is in a very soft style, with low acidity and a fleshy, resinous mouthfeel reflecting residual sugar, and a little grip, all no doubt reflecting the character of the vintage which was warm. But the flavours are bright, savoury and sappy, and overall this is certainly to be admired. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. From an Artisan Wines tasting. 17/20 (September 2007)

Domaine de la Sansonnière Anjou Les Fouchardes 2004: There is a very light sediment of potassium tartrate crystals in this pale, straw coloured wine. A fairly rich nose, of honeyed Chenin cut through with a little lemon, with a fine, deep, mealy character. Quite a full style on entry, but withdrawing through the midpalate, as the wines rests on its extract and acidity rather than presenting any exuberant flesh, but then it opens out again to reveal a real warmth. A little pithy, a wonderful, firmly structured style supporting lots of mineral, honey-infused dried fruit. It reads like a sweet wine, but in the mouth it is rich, rounded, grip and most certainly dry, with a lovely vinosity like that of a very good white Burgundy. Only better. Very characterful wine, with a long, dry but richly enveloping, flavoursome finish. 17.5+/20 (November 2006)

Domaine de la Sansonnière Anjou La Lune 2003: This has a richer, deeper, more golden hue than Les Fouchardes. The nose is fascinating, presenting a panoply of honey and warm straw, with funky, intense, mineral and stony characters. It suggests great richness, and indeed on the palate it is immediately apparent that there is a degree of residual sugar left in this vintage of this usually dry cuvée. But it's still gorgeous; full and fresh, grippy and pithy, with mineral and straw character and surely a touch of botrytis too. A little oily, a little tannic even, but certainly hugely rich and warmly enveloping. Fabulous wine. Has great potential for the cellar, although it is lovely now. 17.5+/20 (November 2006)

Domaine de la Sansonnière Anjou La Lune 2002: This also has a deep golden colour. On the nose, there are undeniable notes of botrytis, with a complex nose of ginger cake, golden syrup, straw and plenty of funky character. It has a very fine, mineral quality too. The palate in this vintage is dry, fresh and pithy, and overall is very stylishly put together. Delightful straw and mineral character, presented in an firm, upright frame. It culminates with an intense finish, broadening out, showing real structure and potential here, forthright,  with incredible length. A rich, all-encompassing wine, with superb, honeyed, nutty, reserved, vinosity. This has much more structure than the 2003 an is set up for long term ageing. 18+/20 (November 2006)