Home > Producer Profiles > Bordeaux Profiles > Chateau La Tour Blanche

Chateau La Tour Blanche

The origins of this unique Sauternes estate are somewhat mysterious, although records indicate it has been in existence since at least the 18th Century. The estate is named for Jean Saint-Marc du Latourblanche, treasurer-general to Louis XIV, a prominent figure in the region until his death in 1784. There is a small two-storey chateau on the property, now dwarfed by more recent additions to the estate, which may have been his residence, although there are no records to inform us of when this house was erected, nor who was responsible.

With the Revolution a few years later the estate came into the ownership of Pierre Pécherie, but by 1845, when Wilhelm Franck drew up his classification, La Tour Blanche was in the tenure of Frederic Focke. Focke was of German origin, and for many years was credited with the introduction of sweet wine production to the region, naturally based on his experiences with the great sweet wines of the Rhine. This is probably erroneous, as it is widely accepted by acolytes of Sauternes that the sweet benefits of noble rot were already well known by this time, and examples of 18th Century Yquem would seem to support this. Nevertheless Focke played a major role in the history of La Tour Blanche, and he was probably responsible for the estate's high ranking in the 1855 classification of Sauternes and Barsac, when it was placed immediately behind Chateau d'Yquem. Following Focke's death, not long after the classification, his widow sold the estate to a syndicate comprising three gentlemen, Maître, Merman (of Chateau le Crock) and Capdeville. The first two bought out the third, before selling it on to Daniel "Osiris" Iffla. Having made his fortune in banking, Osiris then developed a philanthropic bent which saw him financing the construction of hospitals and other municipal facilities, as well as the erection of statues and even the restoration of Napoleon's chateau at Malmaison. He was acquainted with Louis Pasteur, and after his death in 1907 he left a huge portion of his estate to the Institut Pasteur in Paris, funding the purchase of some real estate in the 15th arrondissement and the creation of a laboratory for Marie Curie after her husband's death. In comparison his plans for La Tour Blanche seem like small change; Osiris bequeathed it to the state, with the proviso that an agricultural college be established on the site. The Ministry of Agriculture accepted the gift, and commenced building in 1911. To commemorate this great figure in French history, and in the history of La Tour Blanche, the name of Osiris still appears on the label today.

From 1911 to the present day La Tour Blanche has had a duel role, partly as a working Sauternes estate, partly as a seat of viticultural and agricultural learning. The two halves seem to have operated quite independently for much of the time, with the Cordier family at neighbouring Lafaurie-Peyraguey leasing half of the vines between from 1924 onwards. The agreement was terminated in 1955, although this had no tangible effect on quality, which through the latter half of the 20th Century was not, reputedly, the highest in the region. It was not until Jean-Pierre Jausserrand arrived in 1983 that the renaissance began, and today the wines once again approach the level of quality that we might expect of a premier cru, especially one ranked second to only Yquem.

The Wines of La Tour Blanche

The vineyard at La Tour Blanche comprises approximately 65 hectares on a hill, which rises to a height of 67 metres, overlooking the Ciron. The soils are gravel over clay at the upper end of the vineyard, with soils of sand and loess closer to the river. The vines are predominantly white, these being 83% Semillon with 12% Sauvignon Blanc and 5% Muscadelle, although there is also a very small quantity of red vines. The vines are planted at a density of 6200 vines/ha, the rows 1.8 m apart, and the average vine age is 24 years. Between the vines the soil sees a summer ploughing for alternate rows, those in-between are left to grass. There is leaf stripping later in the year, and a manual harvest using several tries in a process that may take as long as eight weeks. Yields are frequently in the order of 11 hl/ha. Having once been fermented in steel, since the arrival of Jausserrand there has been a gradual move over to oak, such that the whole harvest (for the grand vin) is now fermented in wood. The fruit is first sorted, and a selection for the grand vin, Chateau La Tour de Blanche (up to 4000 cases per annum), made based on the must weight. Those not making the grade may well constitute part of the second wine, Les Charmilles de La Tour Blanche (typically 1250 cases per annum), which can be tremendous value in a good vintage. After fermentation in oak (stainless steel for the second wine), the grand vin will spend up to 18 months in new oak barrels, before fining, filtering and bottling. There are other wines, including the dry white Les Jardins de Thinoy, the demi-sec Osiris (one third botrytised grapes) intended for the Dutch market, and a red, Cru de Cinquet. But it is the Sauternes that is of most interest, by far.

And the wines today? Having tasted a number of recent vintages, I have been impressed. The 2001 Les Charmilles is delightful, a forward and pleasing wine, yet full of character and typicity, which for current drinking is undoubtedly my first choice. The grand vin frequently shows a lot of promise, even in a less auspicious vintage such as 2002, although the 1999, 2003 and 2005 have the edge slightly, in keeping with the superior nature of these vintages. Moreover, there is consistency, with no disappointing wines among those tasted recently. This is one estate where, for the moment at least, one can buy with confidence. (23/1/07, updated 30/1/08)

Contact details:
Address: Chateau La Tour Blanche, 33210 Bommes
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 57 98 02 73
Fax +33 (0) 5 57 98 02 78
Internet: www.tour-blanche.com

Chateau La Tour Blanche - Tasting Notes

Click to locate stockists.

Chateau La Tour Blanche (Sauternes) 2007: This wine has a lovely, honeyed freshness to it, lightly floral, fresh with tinges of oak. Fresh, liquorous, stylish, very dense and rich, with a great texture. Clean, stylish, not so expressive as some of the other wines, but all the substance and balancing acidity is there. This will come good with time, in fact I think it very good indeed. From my tasting of 2007 Sauternes at two years of age. 17.5+/20 (October 2009)

Chateau La Tour Blanche (Sauternes) 2007: A less expressive nose than some of the other wines, but it shows bright, crystalline, pineapple fruit. Similarly bright and balanced on entry, rich and thickly textured, fleshy but with good, fresh acids. Classically composed with fine potential. Very good indeed. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 16.5-17.5+/20 (April 2008)

Chateau La Tour Blanche (Sauternes) 2006: A huge, dense, sweet nose here, of rich old-fashioned marmalade indicative of some botrytis character in the wine. Correspondingly it is very fat on the palate, very sweet, viscous, full of density and sweet dried fruits. This is an good example of the appellation, opulent and creamy. I would prefer a little more defining acidity, but at least the wine has character. From my tasting of 2006 Sauternes at two years of age. 15.5+/20 (October 2008)

Chateau La Tour Blanche (Sauternes) 2005: This too is very appealing, with plenty of fresh honey and vanilla aroma to be found on the nose. Rich but quite direct in style, creamy and lusciously textured, with a wealth of vanilla and spice flavour. A good presence of acidity too, to provide some lift and balance. This perhaps has really excellent potential. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 17-18+/20 (October 2007)

Les Charmilles de La Tour Blanche (Sauternes) 2005: The second wine of La Tour Blanche. A fresh pineapple nose, very open, with plenty of nice, relaxed fruit and a touch of honey. A pleasantly plump style on the palate, it is round, a touch perfumed, but with a good grip and backbone to it, which provides balance and focus. This is rather appealing - Les Charmilles seems to me to often be one of the better second wines. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 16+/20 (November 2007)

Chateau La Tour Blanche (Sauternes) 2004: This has a great character, vibrant with a lemon-honey freshness. This has richness, roundness and an appealing depth. Creamy with barley sugar character again, but with a light-footed, lifted style. Rich in texture beneath. Decent acidity. Very good. 17/20 (February 2007)

Chateau La Tour Blanche (Sauternes) 2004: Beautiful, well delineated, floral and honeyed fruit, expressive, with some nice botrytis. Gorgeous, welcoming, rich and fat atyle with moderate acidity. Nicely poised with purely simple fruit at present. This is lovely and has good potential. From a Sauternes 2004 tasting. 16.5+/20 (October 2006)

Chateau La Tour Blanche (Sauternes) 2003: A gentle honey and quince nose. Such gentleness carries onto the palate, which is pleasantly sweet with a light botrytis character. Nevertheless it has a good presence on the palate, with a fresh feel, leading to a clean finish. Less impact than some wines, but will make very good drinking. I much preferred the 2001. From my assessment of Sauternes 2003. 16.5/20 (October 2005)

Chateau La Tour Blanche (Sauternes) 2002: An attractive, open, honeyed nose which seems very approachable. The palate has a nice rounded, textured character, carrying a nice weight for the vintage. Good character, honey and floral, acacia elements. Soft and plump, rather gentle acidity, and a nice chalky edge. Good wine. 16.5+/20 (November 2007)

Chateau La Tour Blanche (Sauternes) 2002: A very fresh, open, forward nose with aromas of honey, botrytis and barley sugar. It is similarly fresh and clean on the palate, with an attractive, creamy style. This is a good effort taking into account the failings of the vintage, although there may be better wines to be found elsewhere I think. 16.5+/20 (February 2007)

Chateau La Tour Blanche (Sauternes) 2002: A more refined, more polished nose, again high toned, again with complex rôti fruit. A good depth of flavours and a fresh balance, underpinning a rich, almost oily texture. Creamy finish, with candied pineapples. This is very good, especially in the context of the vintage. 16.5+/20 (November 2006)

Les Charmilles de Tour Blanche (Sauternes) 2001: A moderately rich golden hue. Quite a classic nose, with sweet honey and barley sugar, flower petals and ripe, toffee-edged melon. It is fat, rich, creamy, a touch of caramel. Honey and sweetness in abundance. Doesn't quite have the freshness that I found in the previous bottle, but maintains an attractive style with a delicious texture. There is purity and light here. Lovely. 17/20 (February 2007)

Les Charmilles de Tour Blanche (Sauternes) 2001: The second wine of La Tour Blanche. A very appealing, rich golden hue. Simply delightful nose, full of depth and showing some ripe botrytis complexity. Honey and barley sugar, melon and pineapple on the nose, with a hint of toffee. Midweight palate, but full and seductive, creamy and having plenty of depth. This has an exotic, ripe mouthfeel, balanced by good acidity, which gives way to a full finish and superb length. Drink now and over the next five years. A recent purchase, this is extraordinarily good value; I have purloined a couple more for the cellar. From a Sauternes 2001 tasting. 18/20 (March 2006)

Chateau La Tour Blanche (Sauternes) 1999: 80% S, 15% SB, 5% M. A lovely nose, expressive, with obvious botrytis. Perfumed, with aromas of ranges, apricots and honey. This is very open, forward and impressive. Moderate concentration on the palate, which is lithe and balanced. Orange fruit character, with a fat texture which builds through the palate. A touch oily, even. This is very good indeed. Is 1999 an underrated vintage for Sauternes? 16.5+/20 (June 2005)

Les Charmilles de La Tour Blanche (Sauternes) 1999: This has a very attractive, open, botrytis-infused style on the nose. The palate is soft and welcoming, plush and attractive. It is warm, with rather low acidity, but quite grippy. This has a good character and although somewhat short on concentration and fruit flavour it is certainly good quality for a second wine. 14.5/20 (February 2007)

Les Charmilles de La Tour Blanche (Sauternes) 1999: A lovely, well formed, honey-botrytis nose, super-ripe and forward just as I would hope at this level, with beeswax and apricot notes. Certainly enticing! Clean, nicely textured, a little plush, but not quite the concentration that the nose suggested may be present. There's also a slightly bitter, nettly character behind a weak layer of fruit. Glorious texture though. Short finish. Good. 14.5/20 (November 2006)

Chateau La Tour Blanche (Sauternes) 1998: Not so open and approachable as the 2002, alongside which it was tasted. Rather a sublime, honeyed streak. Plump at the start but it seems to go leaner in the midpalate, and has a firm, minerally, stony element. Full, peppery, rather appealing sweet, marmalade-tinged style. Attractive but outshone by some other vintages. 15.5/20 (November 2007)

Chateau La Tour Blanche (Sauternes) 1998: The least open of these three wines, a little polish and high-toned character, but otherwise quite withdrawn. It is the same on the palate, which is rich with a slightly candied style, with some smoky, rôti fruit, but I don't think this wine is being very revealing today. Good acidic backbone. Rather difficult to pass definitive judgement. 15-16+/20 (November 2006)