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Domaine de Juchepie

It is a fascinating aspect of the Loire that so many domaines, some of which are turning out brilliant wines, have been created so recently. Yes, many appellations are characterised and indeed sometimes shaped by grand old domaines; in Vouvray, for example, we have Huet, although admittedly even that domaine only came to the Huet family in the 1920s. Somewhat closer and perhaps more relevant to the subject of this profile, around Anjou we have Domaine des Baumard, where Layon- and Savennières-doyen Jean Baumard did much for the development of viticulture in the region whilst pulling his own ancient domaine - established in 1634 - from the brink of post-phylloxera disaster in the mid-20th century. But in all these regions there are also innovators, sometimes home-grown, sometimes étrangers, newcomers to the region who are not prepared to remain obscured by the shadows cast by long-established domaines. Eddy Oosterlinck, of Domaine de Juchepie, is one such étranger.

Eddy Oosterlinck and the Domaine de Juchepie

Eddy Oosterlinck is Belgian by birth, and in the mid-1980s he was still working there as a hardware merchant. But his attention was being increasingly drawn to the Coteaux du Layon and its wines, and in 1985 he and his wife Mileine (below) took the plunge with the purchase of their first vineyard, a mere 0.35 hectares of vines. And so Oosterlinck the quincaillier became Oosterlinck the vigneron, although it was not until 1986 that he first produced any wine. That was his first vintage, although speaking to Oosterlinck he will tell you that 1997 was his true 'first vintage', as he regards everything before that date to be experimentation, a process of exploration and feeling his way, gradually moving towards the sort of viticulture and wines that he really desired. Along the way he acquired more vines of course, the domaine totalling 2.5 hectares by 1994 when he moved towards organic viticulture, 6 hectares by 2001. It was at this point that Eddy and Mileine gave up their hardware business in Belgium - they had up until now been travelling between their two homes - and settled permanently at their domaine situated between Faye d'Anjou and Beaulieu sur Layon, becoming full-time viticulteurs.

Today the domaine has expanded a little further, the vineyards now totalling 7 hectares, all situated within 1 kilometre of the Oosterlinck cellars. The terroir includes slate (red and green varieties) and also volcanic sites characterised by rhyolite and spilite, although the superficial soils are largely decomposed slate and clay. The domaine is 100% Chenin Blanc (in truth there is a little Cabernet Franc, but my understanding is that it is not commercialised), the vines possessing an average age in excess of fifty years. As noted above Oosterlinck converted it to organic viticulture early on, more recently moving to full biodynamic methods, certified by Biodyvin. Yields are controlled by pruning down the number of buds (6-10 per plant, depending on its age) rather than green-harvesting.

The fruit is harvested in 4-8 tries, usually 6 (although there were 8 in 2009) then transported to the cellars where the vinification is marked by minimal intervention; chaptalisation is forbidden, and the fermentation is achieved by the natural, indigenous yeasts. This is carried out in oak, the wines going directly into vat after pressing without débourbage. What results is a portfolio of wines ranging from vibrantly dry to intense and nobly sweet, the latter the product not only of variety and terroir, but also the inevitable pourriture, the noble rot, the development of which is encouraged by the creeping morning mists of the Layon.

The Wines of Domaine de Juchepie

Starting with the dry wines, there are two cuvées, Les Monts and Le Clos, made from selected botrytis-free fruit, both of which see twelve months en barrique, using 1-2 year old wood, before bottling. Tasting the 2007 vintage, these wines seem vibrant and fresh, with floral elements, and are certainly worth tracking down. Perhaps a little closer to Eddy's heart - at least I sensed this - are the sweeter wines. There are a number of cuvées, ranging from the lighter Les Churelles through the richer Les Quarts to the heady, sugar-rich La Passion, all excellent wines but themselves only tasters of what can be found in the Oosterlinck masterpiece, the Cuvée Quintessence.

All the sweeter cuvées see 18 months in oak before bottling, typically using a mix of new and older barrels (one-third new for Les Churelles and Les Quarts, half new for La Passion) although La Quintessence is 100% new oak. Of note, these various cuvées are broadly cellar selections, although Eddy knows which parts of his vineyard tends to go into which cuvée, the associations being repeated year after year. Once he has finished with his sweet wine barrels they are exported to Scotland where they are used by a well-known whisky distiller to apply a 'Layon-finish', akin to a Port- or Sauternes-finish to their spirit. If we know Eddy, then this relationship shouldn't surprise us; Eddy is a keen whisky acolyte and a not infrequent visitor to Scotland!

Of his wines, Eddy says "sugar should never dominate in a noble sweet wine". He believes in the importance of bitterness in wine for it to be 'noble', the wine possessing elements of savouriness to counterbalance the sugar. Bitterness is, in his opinion, required alongside the usual sweetness and acidity, making for a more 'digestible' drink and a more complex sensation on the palate. His beliefs reflect a passion for his product, a belief in its style, its authenticity and its quality. This passion certainly comes through in the finished product, which are certainly much, much more than simple sweetness and acidity. These wines are richly coloured, an impressive array of hues (Eddy has a habit of decanting his wines for tastings, which shows them off wonderfully) ranging from elegant and shimmering gold to a more burnished tone. The aromas are enthralling and evocatively complex. And as you might expect, they are handsomely structured in the mouth, svelte but linear, an intertwining of sweet botrytis character intertwined with a savoury, mouth-watering grit. These are wines that demand our full attention; they have certainly caught mine. (23/3/10)

Contact details:
Address: Les Quarts, 49380 Faye d'Anjou
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 41 54 33 47
Fax: +33 (0) 2 41 54 13 49

Domaine de Juchepie - Tasting Notes

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Le Sec de Juchepie Anjou Les Monts 2007: Lots of good colour here, and a lovely nose too, with notes of honey and flowers and beeswax. A very rich, broad style, yet I sense dryness here. Lightly mineral, and yes on the palate quite dry despite that evocative nose, nicely structured, with some quite punchy grip at the end. Floral character here too, and fresh acidity. Lots of finish and length. Good. 16.5+/20 (February 2010)

Le Sec de Juchepie Anjou Le Clos 2007: A beautiful nose here, creamy and elegant, with real lift. Broad and textured on the palate, more flesh here than in Les Monts, perhaps just a smidgen more residual? Certainly nothing other than sec though. A lovely feel to it overall, minerally and lightfooted, with the elegance found on the nose coming through nicely. Really good wine. 16.5+/20 (February 2010)

Les Churelles de Juchepie Coteaux du Layon-Faye 2006: There is 60 g/l residual sugar here. A good colour in the glass, and a delightful nose, honeyed but also floral in style, with a twist of marmalade suggesting richness. The palate has a lively freshness, aromatic and lightly honeyed like the nose, nicely underpinned by good grip and lifted acids. It shows a firm and structured finish. This is a very good wine. 17+/20 (February 2010)

Les Quarts de Juchepie Coteaux du Layon-Faye 2006: This cuvée possesses 100 g/l residual sugar. From a half bottle. The nose is truly evocative, swirled with caramel and honey, and is very finely defined. So too is the palate, which has an elegant and linear style, and yet is very concentrated and polished. Very rich and ripe fruit here, a very faint high-toned whisp, leading into a broad, fanned out finish. Fabulous and long, a very fine effort indeed. 18+/20 (February 2010)

La Passion de Juchepie Coteaux du Layon-Faye 2004: A serious move up the scale now, this cuvée has 160 g/l residual, and is cask-fermented, using 50% new oak. A richer and deeper hue here, with an entrancing nose, with savoury complexities alongside the suggestions of sweetness. A very fine palate, starting off broad and impressive, structured but sweet, then more linear, and very well defined through the middle. Beautifully honed and stylish, minerally, yet very rich too. And very long. 18+/20 (February 2010)

Domaine la Juchepie Cuvée Quintessence 2002: This cuvée is fermented an aged in 100% new oak, barrels which then go on to be used for the other cuvées. The end result here has 200 g/l residual sugar. Restrained and reserved style on the nose, with a hauntingly elegant style. Beautifully liquorous on the palate, rich and broad, but not for a second cloying, more svelte than that, rather like velvet. Intense, honey-like, well-defined, almost light despite the gravity of it. A brilliant wine which will surely be long-lived. 18.5+/20 (February 2010)