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Domaine des Baumard
Domaine des Baumard is tucked away in the village of Rochefort-sur-Loire,
which lies at the northern end of the Coteaux du Layon appellation, just a
little way north of Quarts de Chaume. It's not too difficult to find, situated
on the rue Saint Croix, just to the left of the huge church which dominates this
village; the dull grey lettering adherent to the stone wall, next to the large gateway,
informing you of your arrival. Beyond the gateway, and along the immaculately gravelled drive,
you find the old Logis de la Giraudière, acquired by the family in 1959.
Here you will find the extensive cellars and a fine tasting room,
which features a superb 18th Century wall painting, partly preserved,
demonstrating the blue hues typical in old works from this era as other, richer
colours fade with time.
The domaine was established in 1634, and at that time Florent Baumard's ancestors were busy cultivating the vine. This was interrupted, however, by the arrival of phylloxera, and when France began to recover from that disaster the family turned their attention to nursery work - raising vines for sale - rather than viticulture. It was Jean Baumard, a graduate of both Dijon and Bordeaux Universities, taking control in 1955, who steered the family business back towards viticulture. He was responsible for the purchase of plots in the Quarts de Chaume appellation in 1957 and Savennières in 1968; these are stalwarts of the Baumard portfolio. Jean Baumard pulled the domaine from obscurity to the forefront of Loire winemaking, and it is no wonder that he came to be so highly regarded by so many, both his peers and by those who bought and drank his wines. His impact was enormous. But time marches on, and in the early 1990s his son, Florent Baumard, took control. There has been no blip in quality; this domaine continues, under Florent Baumard's control, to turn out some fabulous wines. In fact, Florent seems to me to be a thoughtful and insightful winemaker, who will not only steer this domaine towards continued greatness, he will not shy away from innovation either. In 2006 he surprised the press by unveiling some of his top wines, including the Savennières Clos du Papillon 2003 and Quarts de Chaume 2004 under Stelvin screwcap. Florent announced that in future, all his wines will bottled using this closure technique. I applaud this move which will obliterate almost all possibility of cork taint; I only hope that the wines age as gracefully as they have done under cork for so many years.
Florent
Baumard is a delight to meet. Not only because he is happy to give
his time to you, and talk you through his wines, but also because he speaks with
such a delightfully crisp precision which makes it easy for any student of
French to follow his thread. The first time I met Florent he enunciated his way
through his portfolio and I began to familiarise myself with his range, and
naturally we started with his sparkling wines before moving onto the still
wines. Baumard has several sparkling cuvées, including the non-vintage blends
Carte Turquoise and Carte Corail, white and rosé respectively, as
well as a Cuvée Millésime. There are also a number of Anjou cuvees, rosé
and red, but the real strength of the portfolio is the selection of white wines,
both dry and sweet, from Savennières, Coteaux du Layon and in
particular Quarts de Chaume. There are also oddities such as a vin de
table made from Verdelho as well as Eau de Vie. Starting with the Savennières,
there is the generic Domaine des Baumard
bottling, followed by the Trie Spéciale, a step up in quality. As the name suggests
it is the result of a tri through the vineyard, hand-picking (all the
Savennières and Layon vineyards are harvested by hand) the most ripe grapes for
a gentle pressing and temperature controlled fermentation. It is rich rather
than sweet, and is one of the finest wines of the appellation. Vying with the
Trie Spéciale for best wine, however, is the Clos du Papillon. This wine
is sourced from a butterfly-shaped vineyard - hence the name - just above the
village of Savennières.
The
range of Coteaux du Layons begins with a generic cuvée, but it is with
the numerous special releases that things start to get interesting. First the
fascinating Cuvée Ancienne de Jean Baumard, a blend of multiple vintages,
named after Florent's father. Then come the Clos de Ste Catherine and
Cuvée Le Paon. The former is sourced from a single, sandy vineyard just
outside Rochefort and is an elegant rather than overly rich; the latter is a
selection of hand-picked nobly rotten grapes made only in the better vintages.
Quality really hits a high, however, with the Quarts de Chaume. These are
fine, rich but racy wines, a contrast to the voluptuousness offered by the other
leader of this appellation Chateau
Bellerive. In fact this is true of all the sweet cuvées from Baumard; they
all display a poise and balance many winemakers dream of, and this was evident
once again on my most recent visit to the estate. It is these wines, as well as
the finely structured Savennières, that draw most attention here. And rightly
so. Many of the other wines, the sparkling and the still, are worthy within
their respective classes, but it is the Quarts de Chaume and Savennières Clos du
Papillon that I find, in many but not all vintages, the most enticing. On a
recent vintage I found the 2004 Quarts de Chaume to have a delightful vivacity
and acidic freshness that will carry the wine for a long time in the cellar,
whilst the 2001 still showed the creamy, caramel-imbued texture it has always done on
previous tastings. The Savennières were less impressive, but this is a vintage
effect rather than anything more worrying than that.
(6/7/04, last updated 12/9/07)
Contact details:
Address: 8, rue de l'Abbaye, 49190 Rochefort sur Loire
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 41 78 70 03
Fax: +33 (0) 2 41 78 83 82
Internet: www.baumard.fr
Domaine des Baumard - Tasting Notes
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Domaine des Baumard Crémant de Loire Tirage 2004: Unlike the preceding
two wines, this single-vintage cuvée is based on Chardonnay, and the colour is
different again, a very pale golden hue. It seems more full, as if of greater
substance, on the nose, with a mineral streak. The palate indeed has a little
more weight and fat than the leaner wines that have preceded it, a little
coffee-laced vinosity with praline on the side, although here we still have a
lovely freshness and lively mousse. Another bottle within a few days was just as
fine. Very good. 16.5-17+/20 (July 2007)
Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume 2004:
A very pale hue compared to some other vintages, no doubt a reflection of the year. It kicks off with a vibrant nose, fresh and vivacious
in character, with appealing leafy and greengage edges alongside a vanilla cream
richness. On the palate it is very pure, lifted, with a tingling, exhilarating presence on the palate,
almost as if there is a little residual carbon dioxide here, such is its vibrant freshness.
It is pure, with a laserlike definition, and obvious vibrancy. On entry it is
rather suggestive of the Mosel (!), an effect of the wines lightness and
delicacy, but this parallel can only be drawn as far as the midpalate. Here, out
from underneath the ripe but precise pear, melon and citrus fruit character comes a very subtly
honeyed texture which brings you back to the Loire. It is gentle, slightly pithy and textured towards the finish,
certainly with plenty of substance, but always seeming quite pure and slightly
detached, yet really quite charming on the palate. Overall this is simply delightful, a very different style to
the 2001 which was honeyed and rich with caramel texture and tones. But this has a
much gentler finish, but with great purity and length, and it will age
beautifully I am sure - although it gives so much pleasure now too. For label images and more see my
Wine of the Week write-up. 18+/20 (September 2007)
Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume 2004: This has a lovely style and
sprightliness, and is the floral, elegant, vivacious side of Quarts de Chaume
rather than the honeyed richness evident in the 2001. Pure, vibrant, nettly,
less opulent but perhaps better defined, this is a fabulous, laser-like
embodiment of what this appellation is capable of. This should age very
gracefully indeed, and I have added some to the cellar with confidence that that
will be the case. 18+/20 (July 2007)
Domaine des Baumard Savennières 2003: This wine certainly has a more
accessible character than the 1999, but there are problems here nevertheless.
There is a lack of acidity that goes with the vintage, resulting in a bloated,
flabby character. And the Savennières terroir doesn't seem to be showing
through either, also perhaps a vintage effect. I don't find this too appealing
at all. 13/20 (July 2007)
Domaine des Baumard Savennières Trie Spéciale 2003: This seems quite
superior to the Papillon on the nose, presenting us with a lovely depth of
character. It is honeyed and yet dry, rounded and yet broad and firm. There is
also a good integrity and some typicité which speaks of Savennières, and
although not quite as defining as I would like the rather low acidity does
provide more of a framework than it does in other cuvées. 16+/20 (July 2007)
Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos du Papillon 2003: There are some
appealing features immediately apparent on the nose here, but all presented in a
muted, rounded, manner. Although it shows some early promise it becomes clear
that this wine is less vibrant and precise than I would really like. And the
acidity is unsurprisingly low, which lessens its appeal. A difficult vintage it
seems. 14+?/20 (July 2007)
Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos du Papillon 2001: A classic nose;
warm and rounded, with straw and honey. Concentrated palate, some power, a bit
grippy even. Flavours as for the nose. This is lovely. 16.5+/20 (May 2004)
Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume 2001: Yet another taste of this
magnificent wine, and as usual it does not disappoint. It still has that
honey-caramel characteristic, still has a wonderful structure and still has all
the freshness necessary to compensate for these rich features. Delightful wine
which is still available for purchase at the domaine in the 750ml format. I,
fortunately, have more than enough half-bottles already tucked away to keep me
going for a while. Should drink for decades. 19+/20 (July 2007)
Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume 2001: From a half bottle. Mid-golden hue.
Beautiful nose, of barley sugar and oranges, with chalky, talcy, mineral notes
bringing up the rear. Full, creamy style on the palate, simply laden with exotic
flavours; oranges and other citrus fruits, flowers, lychees even. Mineral and
with great acidity, with a lovely weight and presence. Previously showing quite
a caramel note, this is much less evident today. Drink over the next 20 years.
Stunning. From a Loire
Extravaganza tasting. 19+/20 (July 2005)
Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume 2001: The first half bottle from
a case purchased at the domaine. Very youthful, obviously. Clean hue. A
beautiful Chenin nose, dominated by primary aromas of honey, fresh green apples
and wet wool, with a mineral edge. With some air the caramel aromas come
through. Rich, weighty, absolutely beautifully assembled palate. Clean and
vibrant, crystalline honey, pineapple and stone. Pure and elegant, fresh, but
with an oily richness. Fabulous. Drink over the next two decades, and beyond I
suspect. 18.5+/20 (October 2004)
Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume 2001: Tasted twice; once in
London and once in Rochefort-sur-Loire. A splendid nose that just speaks
volumes. The palate is no less impressive, stuffed full of honey, toffee-caramel
and mineral flavours, with a floral complexity. Clean, beautifully textured, a
superb length. This is fabulous. Should drink for decades. 19+/20 (May 2004)
Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos St Yves 2000: A beautiful,
perfumed, elegant nose, which has a touch of honey and acacia. Warm and rounded
palate, with straw and honey flavour, and a toffee thread too. Lovely clean
finish. 16/20 (May 2004)
Domaine des
Baumard Savennières Trie de Spéciale 2000: An appealing golden colour with
more than a little depth. Very mineral in character, smoky stone fruit, with
nuances of orange and thyme. Rich palate, with the suggestion of
botrytis-derived flavours, but bone dry, with plentiful and firm alcohol, and
grippy structure, providing for a rather foursquare, masculine mouthfeel and
presence. This is clearly in need of bottle age in order to soften and develop,
and is bristling with potential Very good. From a
Loire Extravaganza
tasting. 17+/20 (July 2005)
Domaine des Baumard Savennières Trie Spéciale 2000: Not giving away
too much on the nose at present. The palate displays good texture, and superb
concentration. Here is a wine that demands time in the cellar. 16+/20 (May 2004)
Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos du Papillon 2000: A clear step up
here, with a much more appealing character. It has more depth, and more interest
than the two preceding wines. The structure is also attractive, but it lacks the
sense of completeness and vivacity that I am looking for. For a Papillon, it
seems rather run-of-the-mill. It would be interesting to see what it does in the
cellar. 15.5+?/20 (July 2007)
Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume 2000: Tasted in Rochefort sur
Loire only. Very pure nose, but somewhat closed. On the palate it shows
excellent concentration but no real complexity as yet. Correct structure. As
with the 2001 this will drink for decades, but it doesn't quite have the edge.
18.5+/20 (May 2004)
Domaine des Baumard Savennières 1999: This has a nettly, herbal nose
which has some appeal. On the palate though it is exceedingly firm, perhaps even
austere. It doesn't seem to have the depth to carry this through, though, and it
seems a little hollow on the midpalate as a result. There is no tenderness here,
although it may soften in the cellar I suppose. 15.5+?/20 (July 2007)
Domaine des
Baumard Savennières Clos du Papillon 1999: Good, shimmering pale lemon hue.
The nose is delightful, proffering great minerality, with notes of melon,
pineapple, crystalline tropical fruits. Fresh, firm, minerally palate. The
midpalate is packed with grip. Real tangible extract, lemony acidity, joyous
presence on the palate, and a liquorice twist on the finish. Showing much more
flavour, grippy structure and potential than when tasted at the domaine. Will do
well in the cellar, for five years at least. Very good indeed, could be
excellent. From a Loire
Extravaganza tasting. 17.5+/20 (July 2005)
Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos du Papillon 1999: A fresh and
typical nose. Clean entry, showing little at first, but it has lovely acidity
and structure. Then on the endpalate it fans out to reveal all the nuances that
Savennières can offer. Concentrated and delicious. Needs two to three years in
the cellar. 17+/20 (May 2004)
Domaine des Baumard Coteaux du Layon Clos de Ste Catherine 1998: A
green tinge of colour here. Fresh nose. Surprisingly light and elegant on the
palate, but this is the character of this cuvée I think. Needs time in the
cellar to develop some complexity. 15+/20 (May 2004)
Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos du Papillon 1994: Rich, deep, golden colour. An
amazingly expressive nose, with minerals and chalk, honey botrytis, lemon and
orange, and powdered rocks. Great richness is the impression, borne out on the
palate, but with an almost paradoxical bone dry structure. Pervasive,
flamboyant, fresh, with a fine, honeyed texture backed up by rocky minerality
and great acidity, this is superb. Showing much better than my last tasting, and
my estimated drinking window from my last bottle may be a little conservative -
this could go one for years and years. Excellent. From a
Loire Extravaganza
tasting. 18+/20 (July 2005)
Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos du Papillon 1994: Unlike the
preceding wines this has a glorious deep-gold hue reflecting this wines age. A
complex nose, yielding aromas of quince, honey and nectar. The palate is rich
but dry which seems almost paradoxical. Structured and grippy. Showing well for
a weak vintage. 16.5/20 (May 2004)
Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume 1980: This has a fairly pale hue for
the appellation, being just tinged with a lemon-green
hue. The nose is complex, fascinating, but very difficult to describe. There is
some sweetness here, a little like light Demerara sugar, but there are very
organic overtones too. It has great depth, and intertwined here there are notes
of straw and a dried, honey richness; it is a wine of character, but not
necessarily great sweetness. Some aspects are quite bright - there is a layer
perhaps best described as lime rubbed on metal, but overall it has great
substance. The palate is broad and very complete, very nicely integrated, with
richness but only gentle sweetness. Straw, funk and more play a role here, and yet the palate is
restrained and forceful. There is a great lime-tinted texture on the finish and
a broad, lingering length. This is excellent, especially as I was uncertain as to how
well this wine would have held up - it has been in bottle from nearly three
decades. I think this will drink well for some years yet, although it is
unlikely to improve much further. having said that this is a robust wine still,
as I finished this bottle 24 hours after opening, and it was then still holding up very well, showing
great purity, definition, and delineation. This is a truly excellent wine.
For label images and more see my
Wine of the Week
write-up. 19/20 (June 2008)
Tasting notes are ordered by date of tasting, most recent first. I have tried to indicate whether it is a tasting of a new release, or of a wine I have cellared.
Domaine des Baumard Coteaux du Layon Cuvée Ancienne de Jean Baumard NV:
Current release. A non-vintage blend of fifteen different vintage wines.
Unsurprisingly on the nose this shows complexity, no doubt derived from more
mature vintages included. Nevertheless it is very fresh on the palate, gently
sweet, elegant. Another wine that needs time in the cellar; five years or so.
16+/20 (May 2004)
Domaine des Baumard Crémant de Loire Carte Turquoise Brut NV: Current
release. A Chenin
Blanc cuvée, which has a very pale appearance in the glass. Fresh and nettly on
the nose, clean and crisp. The palate is well composed, complete and balanced,
with nicely fresh acidity. Very appealing. 15.5/20 (July 2007)
Domaine des Baumard Crémant de Loire Carte Corail Brut NV: Current
release. Now we are
in Cabernet Franc territory. This has a remarkably pale pink hue, a faint hint
of peachy sunset. The nose also has peachy tones, with a leafy freshness.
Delicately complete, fresh and balanced, but with a firm presence in the mouth,
this is very attractive. A second bottle tasted within a few days was just as
delightful. 16/20 (July 2007)
Domaine des Baumard Crémant de Loire Carte Corail Brut NV: Current
release. A Cabernet
Franc sparkler. Good fresh nose. Very delicate and balanced palate, with a touch
of strawberry flavour. Good firm mousse. 14/20 (May 2004)
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