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Chateau Bellerive
Chateau
Bellerive is situated at the heart of the tiny Quarts de Chaume appellation.
Turn off the D54 not far from
Chateau Pierre-Bise - you can see the peaked roof of this chateau to the
south as you travel along - and head for the village of Chaume. The road quickly
narrows into a country lane, and you are now heading into the heart of Quarts de
Chaume, one of the two Coteaux du Layon crus. After a kilometre or so the
narrow lane forks, the left hand side talking you directly along the drive up to
appellation leader Chateau Bellerive.
Quarts de Chaume is a unique microclimate surrounding the village of Chaume, which certainly warrants its own appellation. The slopes of the appellation fan out south of Chaume, which sits at the peak of the slopes. The hillsides are baked by the warm sun, and well drained. They also lie close to the Layon, which generates the morning mists which nurture the cause of Noble Rot, Pourriture Noble to the French, Botrytis cinerea to the biologists. Botrytis is vital to the character of Quarts de Chaume, and when plentiful truly stunning wines can be produced.
There
are just a small number of important producers in Quarts de Chaume -
unsurprising in an appellation that covers barely 30 out of a possible 45 hectares.
Domaine des Baumard is one,
Pierre-Bise another. But leading the pack -
in equal first if not ahead - is Chateau Bellerive. For years this estate was
managed by old hand Jacques Lalanne, but in the mid 1990s Lalanne was forced to
sell, a consequence of inheritance laws and family difficulties. The property
and vineyards were purchased by the Malinge family, who had no real history of winemaking - hence Lalanne
stayed on as director, and quality has certainly been maintained, as attested by
my tasting notes below. Having visited the estate, I think I understand why the Malinge
family purchased this property; not only does it have a track record of
producing world-class wines, but also the location is superb and secluded, and the
small chateau
is undeniably attractive, and is nicely set off by the
pale pink roses hanging along its front.
Practices here are destined to produce superb wines. The vineyards are close to immaculate. There is a cluster thinning in early summer to reduce yields. The harvest is conducted manually, in up to five tries, ensuring that the grapes are in optimum condition when harvested. Naturally each pass through the vineyard is vinified separately, using temperature controlled apparatus. There are a number of wines produced here, but it should be of no surprise, considering the Chateau's location, that the two Quarts de Chaume cuvées are of most interest. These are the standard cuvée and a selection of the better barrels, based on a post-fermentation tasting, called Quintessence. The wines are marrowy - a lovely descriptor I think - lush, fat and opulent, in contrast to Domaine des Baumard where the wines are a touch more racy and nervous, although still rich and complex. In addition however, there is also a dry white - produced from the Quarts de Chaume vineyards, but using fruit not sufficiently botrytised for the sweet wines - which qualifies for the Anjou appellation called Le Sec de Bellerive.
A number of the wines tasted below were encountered at Chateau Bellerive, and assessed in the company of a vineyard worker, once he had parked his tractor! It was very satisfying to be able to taste with a man who, only minutes earlier, had been tending to the crop that would one day be bottled as the 2004. Subsequently I have tasted and retasted the same vintages at home, as well older vintages from my cellar, namely the 1985, 1988 and 1990 all of which have aged brilliantly. At twenty years these wines show much finesse and poise, with a seamless composition, although they have lost some of the hedonistic sweetness found in the younger cuvées, turning instead to a more gentle, brown sugar character. The younger wines, although perhaps less complex, are not less desirable, and the 1997 Quintessence is for me one of the greatest sweet wines I have ever tasted. (22/6/04, updated 7/5/08)
Contact details:
Address: 49190 Rochefort-sur-Loire
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 41 78 33 66
Fax: +33 (0) 2 41 78 68 47
Chateau Bellerive - Tasting Notes
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to locate
stockists. Latest notes:
Chateau Bellerive Quarts de Chaume 1990: These bottles always look curious when plucked from the
cellar, the golden wine appearing brown through the pale green glass. But once
the wine is poured we can see its true, very appealing colour. The nose has a
gentle honey and brown sugar sweetness, along with what is - to my nose - a
fascinating minerally, organic, dry straw funk. The palate also has a gentle,
fleshy weight, with a firm presence of orange-golden fruit. It is well framed
with gentle acidity, well polished and showing good substance and a little grip.
Yet another delicious bottle of this wine, which shows a fine length. Excellent.
18.5/20 (May 2008)
Chateau Bellerive Quarts de Chaume 1988: Another from the pile of bottles in my cellar, I think I am
about halfway though my case now. This has a rich orange-gold hue on inspection,
and just a few tartrate crystals beneath the cork. The nose has notes of baked
citrus fruit, minerals and stones, straw and funk. The palate carries a good and
rich flesh, with a very nicely poised presence, rich but not hugely sweet, and
with plenty of grip towards the finish. Very nicely poised, fresh and appealing
despite its considerable age. It doesn't quite have the excitement of the last
bottle, which was superb, but this remains a truly excellent wine. 19/20 (May
2008)
Chateau Bellerive Quarts de Chaume 1985: This wine has a rich hue, a bright golden
colour, and overall a very fresh appearance. The aromas are lovely, comprising lively, honeyed, chalky, papery, straw-like
character. There is a lot of fine Chenin character here, with good
flesh on the palate, and a good, creamy presence. Nicely textured, a sweet, light
demerara sugar character, altogether rounded and poised. Very appealing and
correct. Although very mature it still has freshness, weight and balance - so
despite its 23 years there is no
real rush with my remaining bottles I think. Excellent. 18.5/20 (May 2008)
Older notes:
Chateau Bellerive Quarts de Chaume 2002:
A very pale, shimmering lemon-gold hue compared to the two slightly older
cuvées, Very simple on the nose, just a little floral element. On the palate it
has exquisite balance and fresh acidity, with a lacelike texture dancing across
the palate, although there is solid structure and potential for development
clearly evident. Nevertheless, at present it is one-dimensional and shallow,
with just a little citrus and floral character. This is indicative of the
lighter, delicate styles which can be found in the 2002 vintage; this needs a
long slumber in the cellar before it will show great interest. From a
Loire Extravaganza
tasting. 17+/20 (July 2005)
Chateau Bellerive Quarts de Chaume 2002: A touch richer here. Again
very closed on the nose. But here there is more structure and concentration
evident on the palate. This is a solid, firmly structured wine which
demonstrates clear potential for the cellar. Needs five to seven years. 17+/20 (May 2004)
Chateau Bellerive Quarts de Chaume 2001: This wine demonstrates a very
similar colour to the 1998. Closed on the nose. Good concentration on the
palate, again matching the 1998, but much less expressive. This wine needs time
in the cellar before drinking - five years at least. 16.5+/20 (May 2004)
Chateau Bellerive Quarts de Chaume 1998: Good colour. Of all the wines
tasted this showed the most complexity on the nose at present. Rich, rounded,
but approachable on the palate. Good concentration, balanced and fluid. This was
poured first, and is first choice for current drinking. 16.5/20 (May 2004)
Chateau Bellerive Quarts de
Chaume 1997: Last tasted two years ago, I thought it would be fascinating to
see how this wine has developed. Still a deep, burnished gold hue. The nose has
a lovely, fresh and yet botrytis-infused character, full of quince and honey
aromas but with a mineral streak. Fine, unctuous entry on the palate, showing
beautifully rich and yet well defined flavours. Unbelievably, past the
midpalate, it is all turned up a notch, as the wine almost seems to relax in the
mouth, settling down and broadening out, and revealing notes of honey, warm
pastry, pistachio nuts, marmalade, ginger spice and more, all wrapped in a
luscious texture. Such fine complexity and depth, which persists on the finish
and lingers for a good length of time. Great acidic freshness too. This is
fabulous wine. From a tasting of the
1997 Vintage at ten years
of age. 19-19.5+/20 (December 2007)
Chateau Bellerive Quarts de Chaume 1997:
A deep, golden-orange hue. A fantastic nose, rich with aromas of orange
marmalade, apricot and honey. There is plenty of botrytis influence here. It has
a rich, palate-coating, impressive presence. Minerality and botrytis-derived
richness combined, with a vein of fresh acidity to maintain balance. This is
stunning stuff indeed. Although I suggested this needs years in the cellar, it
is still approachable now, although it will certainly age slowly and gracefully.
From a Loire Extravaganza
tasting. 19+/20 (July 2005)
Chateau Bellerive Quarts de Chaume 1997: Wow! This wine, tasted
following the 1998-2001-2002 trio stands head and shoulders above those three
vintages. First notable difference is the colour - a deep, burnished,
golden-orange. It impresses on both the nose and palate, being packed with
concentration and botrytis related complexity. This is hedonistic stuff indeed -
no wonder the 1997s were poured last. It needs another five to ten years in the
cellar, and should drink well for fifteen to twenty years thence. 19+/20 (May 2004)
Chateau Bellerive Quarts de Chaume
Quintessence 1997: Naturally, following on from my tasting of the standard
wine, I can not resist looking once again at this super-cuvée. This wine still
has an almost impossibly rich, deep, intense orange-gold hue. The nose is
similarly intense, with notes of orange blossom, creamy caramel, ginger and
botrytis; this is an absolute delight. The palate has a fabulous presence,
rather like liquid toffee, but freshened by notes of oranges and a gently fresh
acidity which seems just in balance on this tasting. Very broad, creamy, with
wonderful character, and very, very pure. This is certainly the most remarkable
Quarts de Chaume I have ever tasted, as I believe I have commented before! Such
purity, and yet such impact. Excellent. From a tasting of the
1997 Vintage at ten years
of age. 19.5/20 (December 2007)
Chateau Bellerive Quarts de Chaume Quintessence 1997: Very deep,
burnished gold. Intense nose, with even greater depth than the straight
1997.Caramel, honey, toffee, maple syrup, beeswax and more; what an incredible
nose. Great depth and the evolution of complexity is apparent on the palate.
Glorious, opulent, rich yet fresh, although as previously noted acidity does
seem to be on the low side. Long, lingering finish. The greatest example of QdC
I have tasted, showing just that little bit more convincingly than my last
tasting, and compared to the straight cuvée. Stunning. From a
Loire Extravaganza
tasting. 19.5/20 (July 2005)
Chateau Bellerive Quarts de Chaume Quintessence 1997: A special blend
of the better vats, selected by a post-fermentation tasting, made only in the
better vintages. Incredibly this surpasses the straight 1997 cuvée in terms of
colour and even concentration on the palate. It is rich, opulent, oily and
dominated by botrytis. The acidity struggles a little to cope, and right now the
regular cuvée just has the edge, but cellar time may change that. This is still
incredible wine. Drink five years from now, for ten-fifteen years. 19+/20 (May 2004)
Chateau Bellerive Quarts de Chaume 1990:
A burnished, orange-golden hue. The nose is delightful, full of brown sugar,
honeycomb, barley sugar, oranges and smoky straw. There is more mature
complexity to come on the palate, where alongside the notes of sweet orange
fruit and creamy, opulent vanilla there are notes of aniseed, fennel and little
minerally notes I have picked up before. There is a little grip, but this wine,
firm, complete and well composed, and blessed with a gentle endpalate and long,
lingering finish, is certainly ready to go now. Delicious. 19/20 (May 2007)
Chateau Bellerive Quarts de Chaume 1990:
The third bottle from this case, and this one shows a gorgeously rich and deep
(and consistent) golden hue. The nose is beautifully expressive, textbook sweet
Loire Valley Chenin; plenty of honey and straw character lead the way, full of
the mineral elements noted in my last bottle just a few months ago, but also
fleeting nuances of caramel and mint not previously recorded. Very full and rich
on entry, yet very lithe and supple and demonstrating exquisite balance. Honey
and quince notes, green apples and straw, and a profound mineral streak. Any
doubts that this isn't a superb wine are soon put to bed by the fine length,
infused with classic Chenininity. Brilliant. 19+/20 (April 2006)
Chateau Bellerive Quarts de Chaume 1990:
An intense, deep gold-amber hue here. A similarly intense nose, laden with
chalky-cordite minerals, with some curranty fruit and classic Chenin straw. This
wine exhibits great charisma. Beautiful palate, intertwining richness with
balance; this is fresh and poised, but with an appealing, seductively sweet
mouthfeel. Intense minerality, warm straw, purity and a fluid, seamless elegance
that simply slips across the palate. Very fine. This should continue to gain
depth and complexity, but is wonderful now. Another
Christmas Wine. 19+/20 (December 2005)
Chateau Bellerive Quarts de Chaume 1988: Lovely vibrant golden hue.
Stylish nose, honeycomb, minerals and white fruits with a refined, rather
reserved, orange freshness. It is deliciously tender, crisp, well defined and
yet rich on the palate. A forthright, well delineated, creamy-velvety through
the midpalate, opening out to reveal a touch of brown-sugar, gritty sweetness.
This is so lively, firm and outgoing it is difficult to believe it is
approaching its twentieth birthday. Whereas some previous bottles have been all
over the place, as if they were not too sure if they should be sweet or dry, and
on occasions a little diesely, this is fabulous. Above all it has a very
complete, balanced, elegant style that glides across the palate. 19.5+/20 (May 2007)
Chateau Bellerive Quarts de Chaume 1988:
A beautiful colour; a quite vibrant sunset gold. There is considerable bottle
stink at first - the only wine I have drank that reminded me of diesel fumes -
but these most off-putting, headache-inducing aromas dissipate after a few hours
to leave an appealing honey and green apple nose, with some nice wet wool,
mineral and toffee notes too. The very balanced and fresh, but with lovely
weight. Mineral-organic notes alongside the honey, star anise and botrytis character; yet
another bottle that has turned out to be lovely. I think now I am half-way
through the case, and I will enjoy the rest over the next decade. A
Christmas Wine. 18/20 (January 2005)
Chateau Bellerive Quarts de Chaume 1988: Not tasted at Bellerive -
this is one from my cellar. A pile of potassium tartrate
crystals here - as is the case with all the bottles so far. A fairly deep golden here,
more pleasing to the eye than I recall with previous bottles. Some lovely aromas
on the nose, which is full of marmalade and other botrytis derived scents. Rich,
balanced, sweet yet fresh on the palate, with the security of botrytis for
flavour. Vanilla notes. This is the best showing yet from this case, with none of the appley,
struggling-to-be-sweet impression gained from the first bottle. And certainly no
oxidation. What a concentrated, botrytised, flavoursome, yet elegant and
balanced, delight. Should drink well for a decade if not more. 18/20 (May 2004)
Chateau Bellerive Quarts de Chaume 1988: A deep, burnished gold
colour. Lovely character on the nose - honeycomb and green apples, with botrytis
and quince, with an almost floral freshness. The palate is delightful - full of
powerful acidity with a moderately rich mouthfeel. Plenty of flavours, mirroring
the nose on the midpalate, but with a mealy edge, and fanning out on the finish,
providing an elegant, complex array of almonds, with a marzipan sweetness. There
are none of the faint notes of oxidation I picked up with previous bottles - in
fact this bottle is really singing. This wine easily has a decade of drinking in
it yet. 17.5+/20 (January 2004)
Chateau Bellerive Quarts de Chaume 1988: An intense, golden amber
colour. There are nuances of cinder toffee, oatmeal biscuits and honey, with
suggestions of green apples and some botrytis on the nose. Quite a full texture
on the palate, rich with minerals, honey, spice and cinder toffee. Not intensely
sweet, rather slightly so, with lots of mealy complexity. Perhaps a touch of
oxidation? Great balancing acidity and a lovely weight. This wine has
considerable potential for development over the next fifteen years, provided it
doesn't succumb to the effects of oxygen.
18+/20 (August 2002)
Chateau Bellerive Quarts de Chaume
1985: A rich lemon gold, as it
was with the last bottle I drank; this appearance did nothing to belie the
age of the wine. On the nose it is organic, rather funky, quite complex and
sweet, dusty and impressive. There is a note of richness, but wrapped up in a
reserved, organic frame, with little elements of honey trying to get out. Then
with the first mouthful, some signs of residual richness and texture. It is
mellifluous, honeyed, but but not luscious or overly sweet; rather it has a dry
structure when held on the palate. There is a lovely vinosity to it, a spiced honey,
well provided with stony,
peppery fruit. Complete, broad, not quite silky but certainly beautifully precise
and textured. It is pent up, quite fine, but ready to open and give through the
endpalate and finish; the sweetness has largely faded from the palate, but it
has length and a deep complexity. Delightfully aristocratic, this is excellent.
For label images and more see my Wine of the Week
write-up. 18.5/20 (April 2007)
Chateau Bellerive Quarts de Chaume 1985:
From one of the top properties of the appellation, this wine has a rich, golden hue. Lovely
nose; beeswax, candlewax, minerals and lime, perfused with notes of straw and
crystalline fruits. There is moderate concentration on entry, an elegant and freshly
balanced style, rather reserved at times, but nevertheless showing fine straw
and wax character, leading up to a minerally finish which is very persistent. This is a fine, expansive wine, still
carrying a very fine sweetness, which should do well in the cellar for a few
years yet. No great rush to drink these up I think. A
Christmas Wine. 18.5/20 (December 2005)
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