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Chateau Taillefer

The story of Chateau Taillefer, which was shown on maps as early as 1764, is inextricably linked with that of the Moueix family, who purchased the chateau and vineyards in the early 20th Century. The man in question was Antoine Moueix, born in 1878, who as a young man moved to Bordeaux from Corrèze in order to make a better life for him and his family. He established himself as a wine trader, selling the wines of Pomerol and St Emilion to customers, both local and further afield. He was successful in his business, and in 1923 his son, Jean-Marie Moueix, joined the family firm. This was also the year that Antoine purchased Chateau Taillefer. This property remained in the Moueix family throughout the 20th Century, subsequently coming to Bernard Moueix, until his tragically early death in 1996. The estate passed to his widow, Catherine Moueix, who continues with her children Antoine and Claire to run Taillefer (as well as the family's other property Tauzenat l'Hermitage in St Emilion) and to oversee the vinification of the estate's wines, with consultation from Denis Dubourdieu, Professor of Oenology at the University of Bordeaux. It was the delightful Catherine that escorted me around the estate when I visited in late 2006.

The chateau itself is located in the southern-most part of the Pomerol appellation, east of Libourne, the boundary with St Emilion just a hop, step and a jump to the east again. The property is a fairly typical size for Pomerol, coming in at about 13 ha, with a fairly typical terroir of gravel and sand, with streaks of iron. The vines, planted at a density of 6000/ha, average over 30 years of age, and are 50% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Malbec. The fruit is harvested by hand with a yield not in excess of 40 hl/ha, before going over a sorting table, and then fermentation, with a long cuvaison, using temperature-controlled equipment. The wine undergoes malolactic in barrel before spending fifteen months in French oak, 30% new each vintage, finishing with an egg-white fining. The grand vin is Chateau Taillefer, although there is no second wine, rejected vats are taken on by Yvon Mau, who have exclusive rights to distribute the wines of Chateau Taillefer, where they are utilised for the firm's generic Pomerol.

Before my tastings of recent vintages, from 2001 onwards, my only previous experience - that I can recall - of Chateau Taillefer was in the 1990 vintage, where the wine showed that with very favourable conditions the Moueix family could make a very good wine here. More recent vintages up to 2004, again show a solid performance from Taillefer, including vintages that might be considered 'merely' good such as 2002, up to sought after vintages such as 2003 which, despite their popularity, do have a lot of problems with over-extraction, low acidity, lack of freshness and lack of balance (to my palate, at least). Taillefer was as good an example of this typical 2003 style as any I have come across, but that isn't to say that these aren't good enough wines which would give pleasure, at the right price. The 2004, however, is convincingly superior to them all; yet another example that I have encountered of some very good wines from the right bank in this vintage. (29/6/06, updated 8/2/07)

Contact details:
Address: 33501 Libourne
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 57 25 50 45
Fax +33 (0) 5 57 25 50 45
Internet: www.chateautaillefer.fr

Chateau Taillefer - Tasting Notes

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2007

Chateau Taillefer (Pomerol) 2007: This has an attractive, rather floral nose, with a little sweet fruit combined with aromatic herbs also evidentt. It is fleshy and rounded on the palate, with gentle acidity and a good tannic grip. there is not a lot of midpalate substance, although although I don't think the Taillefer style is usually the most generous. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 13-14+/20 (April 2008)

2004

Chateau Taillefer (Pomerol) 2004: Slightly less dense, but an appealing even concentration out to a think, pale pink rim. A great nose - a deep concentration of fruit, rather firm, still showing some oak, overall seems to have a deep and plush, open style. Lovely fleshy welcome on entry, richly rounded yet elegant, quite fine and well defined. Ripe tannins, well carried by the svelte texture and plush fruit. This is streets ahead of the preceding vintages. A superb style, with a ripe and expressive finish. Excellent. 18+/20 (December 2006)

2003

Chateau Taillefer (Pomerol) 2003: A very deep, concentrated, darkly coloured wine. On the nose it has the typical confit fruit of the vintage, a jammy-conserve bramble style. Rather cool on entry, showing a big, soft style, with piles and piles of ripe and mouth-gripping tannins on the midpalate. Just massive structure. Decent acidity though - better than many other wines of the vintage. It is difficult to know how these wines will age, and in their youth the tannins make for difficult drinking. 15+?/20 (December 2006)

Chateau Taillefer (Pomerol) 2003: Much more forward and open on the nose than the two preceding wines, this is showing lots of sweetly ripe, confit fruit, with a blackberry and black cherry character. On the palate, however, it seems rather more lean than I expected, with over-extracted tannin in abundance. Lovely flavour, but overtly unbalanced with soft acidity and overworked fruit. Heaven only knows how this will perform in the cellar, but it should at least give some short term pleasure. 15+?/20 (November 2005)

2002

Chateau Taillefer (Pomerol) 2002: Another dark wine, a touch more youthful but less dense than the 2001. More open on the nose, rather flashy, plummy, certainly oak-influenced. The palate has a nice, creamy style which gives the wine a pleasingly supple feel, although it certainly has less flesh than the 2001. The tannins are a touch harder, and the structure and little more firm. Nevertheless, overall this is a good wine, and is a very good effort for a less forgiving vintage. 16.5/20 (December 2006)

Chateau Taillefer (Pomerol) 2002: More obvious fruit on the nose of this slightly younger wine, with a rather exotic, plummy, damsony, youthful character very typical of Merlot. A finely balanced palate, with a slightly plump presence, and lovely tannic grip. Rather a succulent style, which I like very much indeed. A good wine which should drink early and give much pleasure. 16.5/20 (November 2005)

2001

Chateau Taillefer (Pomerol) 2001: A dark, glossy wine with a raspberry red rim. This has really opened out over the past year, now showing a complex, smoky, meaty nose of great interest. The palate is firm and well structured, showing a lovely balance, with a strong backbone of tannin and fresh acidity, combined with some fine, deep fruit. Overall it has a reserved style, quite a classical composition, but good weight and great grip in the mouth. Firm yet elegant. Very good style. 17/20 (December 2006)

Chateau Taillefer (Pomerol) 2001: Rather shy on the nose, although I can perceive a little Merlot fruit at times. The palate is thus judged on texture and structure more than the paucity of fruit it shows in this closed phase, and it does very well. This has a supple style, well-knitted together, with well extracted structure and texture. Nicely balanced. There is very good potential here. 16.5+/20 (November 2005)

1990

Chateau Taillefer (Pomerol) 1990: Another rich purple wine. Excellent fruit presence on the nose, with hints of spicy Christmas cake. Classic merlot on the palate, with upfront fruit, and also some spicy/peppery notes. Again obvious tannins, well balanced. Finishes well. From a tasting of mature Pomerol. 17.5/20 (June 2000)