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Chateau Grand Mayne
One of many estates which show that there is life outside of the Premier Grand Cru Classé ranking of St Emilion, Grand Mayne has an enviable history which stretches back for more than five centuries. Originally a grand manor (it is said that this is the origin of grand mayne, which has been the name of the estate since the 19th Century), the buildings date from the latter years of the 15th and 16th Centuries. Some of the earliest recorded proprietors were the Laveau family, who were certainly in residence by the 17th Century, starting with Jacques Laveau, who went by the fond pseudonym of The Elder, in 1685. Under his tenure the estate amounted to 136 hectares of which an impressive 30 hectares were dedicated to vines. Nevertheless it was his son Jean that really made his mark on the estate. In 1811 he purchased the nearby Chateau Soutard from the Combret de Milon family, increasing his dominion to 250 hectares, of which 62 hectares were vines, including some on the desirable terroirs of the plateau and on the slopes. Although some knew Jean by the rather unimaginative surnom of Son of The Elder, others referred to him rather more romantically as the Prince of the Libourne Vines.
With the introduction of Napoleon's inheritance laws, however, it was perhaps
inevitable that such a grand domaine was eventually broken up, and
the Laveau family soon lost control of their estate. The very heart of the
property, amounting to just 21 hectares, was to become what we know today as
Grand Mayne. This nubbin of the once grand domaine passed from pillar to
post, first through the hands of the Puchaud family, than in 1893 the Massip
family, followed by the Termes-Dubroca, Briloin and Chavaroche families, finally
ending up in the ownership of Noël Berbudeau in 1922. It was not until 1934 that
the current owners arrived on the scene in the shape of Jean Nony. Clearly
playing the long game, he acquired the estate at a favourable price, an effect
of the global economic depression of the era. He managed the estate
single-handed until 1977, when his son Jean-Pierre Nony took the reins. With the
death of Jean-Pierre in 2001, his widow Marie-Françoise Nony has been in charge,
increasingly assisted by her sons Jean Antoine and Damien. Today, these two
brothers are the face of Grand Mayne.
Chateau Grand Mayne lies to the west of St Emilion, at the foot of the plateau, and so the terroir tends to be one of clay and limestone on the southwest facing slopes, with a few vines on more sandy soils at the base. There are 19 hectares of vines altogether, of which 17 hectares are planted in a single block which qualify for the Grand Cru Classé classification. The vines are dominated by Merlot at 76%, with 13% Cabernet Franc and 11% Cabernet Sauvignon, planted at a density of 5500 vines/ha and with an average age of 30 years. The vines are interplanted with grass to compete with the vines and to encourage them to search deeper for nutrients and water, and a green harvest in the summer months helps to control yields, which are typically in the order of 35 hl/ha. Once harvested, by hand naturally, the fruit is destemmed at the chai before fermentation in a mix of temperature-controlled steel vats installed in 1973 and wooden vats which have been on site since 2000. The fruit is macerated for up to four weeks, and then transferred into barrels many of which will be new, figures varying between 80% and 100% with the year. The wine completes its malolactic fermentation in the wood, where it rests for up to 24 months. It is then bottled without fining or filtration as two cuvées, the grand vin Chateau Grand Mayne, and a second wine labelled as Les Plantes de Mayne. Much of this is sourced from the 2 hectare plot entitled Les Plantes which lies outside the Grand Cru Classé classification, mixed with deselected vats.
The wines themselves are well worth seeking out, especially when one bears in mind that here we are outside the Premier Grand Cru Classé level. Amongst the chateaux ranked at Grand Cru Classé level, Grand Mayne is without doubt today one of the more notable. The 2003 was impressive when tasted at the UGC tasting in 2005, the 2004 less so the following year, although there is potential for such a wine to come together with time, and it would be gratifying to taste it again. The 2005 has also shown potential on early tasting. (14/11/07)
Contact details:
Address: 1, Le Grand Mayne, 33330 St Emilion
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 57 74 42 50
Fax: +33 (0) 5 57 74 41 89
Internet:
www.chateau-grand-mayne.com
Chateau Grand Mayne - Tasting Notes
Chateau Grand Mayne (St Emilion) 2008:
Bright black fruit and plum nose here, with fresh character. Lifted,
crystalline, although very ripe and plump in character. A fresh entry and leaner
midpalate, a nicely polished stony texture, fresh fruit, with a firmer tannic
and acid structure. Lots of grip towards the finish. Certainly attractive, and
with potential too. From my
2008 Bordeaux primeur
assessment. 16.5-17.5+/20 (April 2009)
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Chateau Grand Mayne (St Emilion) 2007: A
lovely density of aroma here, a brooding style, with lots of depth. This is true
for the palate as well, which shows a lot of substance, although it all remains
nicely balanced through the midpalate. It has a firm grip but it is well coated
in fruit, and the acidity is a little gentler than some of its peers. This is a
real success for this estate, which I hope comes through in the bottled wine. From my
2007 Bordeaux
en primeur assessment. 16.5-17.5+/20 (April 2008)
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Chateau Grand Mayne (St Emilion) 2006:
Bright fruit on the nose here, rather meaty in character, with plums and new
oak. Broad but supple and attractive on entry, leaner and tannic through the
midpalate. Good fruit flavour. Shows a little more creaminess later, rather
gentle, the tannins and acidity seem very detached, diffuse, but it has some
style and I think with time this could come good. From a tasting of
2006 St Emilion &
Pomerol. 16+/20 (October 2008)
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Chateau Grand Mayne (St Emilion) 2005: Sweet and dark fruit on the nose, very
slightly feral and gamey. A nice substance maintained throughout on the palate,
with a seam of very ripe tannins beneath. Dark and quite substantial, but well
framed by acid, coolly structured and overall quite appealing. There is good
potential and perhaps even some value here I think. From a
2005 Bordeaux
tasting at four years of age. 17+/20 (November 2009)
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Chateau Grand Mayne (St Emilion) 2005: This has a rather distinct toffee oak and
raspberry character on the nose. And on the palate it has a hard style, showing
good flavours but a bony structure. In terms of its composition it is rather
challenging, and it has a huge, bitter, spicy finish. Lots of tannins swimming
about, dominating the picture. Doesn't seem to have achieved a totally desirable balance
to me, but there are some good elements, and this may become more harmonious
with time. From my tasting of
2005 Bordeaux at two
years of age. 16.5+/20 (October 2007)
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Chateau Grand Mayne (St Emilion) 2004:
Tasting this wine at two year's of age it seemed very soft and flabby; it seems
to have undergone a metamorphosis since then. Today it has a dense, dark and
spicy nose, rich in meaty-beefy fruit, a characteristic which seems not unusual
in this vintage. The palate still seems soft and very ripe, but there is a
dense, inky, fleshy substance to it too, with lots of ripe tannins showing at
the finish. It has a dense, somewhat chewy character, and clearly has some good
potential. A revised opinion here. From a
2004 Bordeaux
tasting at four years of age. 16.5+/20 (November 2008)
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Chateau Grand Mayne (St Emilion) 2004: A very sweet, buttery, blackberry and oak
nose. It borders on confected. Full, creamy on entry, but with a hollowness, a
lack of presence, that persists. Lots of flavour though, black fruits and
fruitcake, with good length. But lacks harmony of structure and texture. From my Bordeaux 2004
assessment. 14.5/20 (October 2006)
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Chateau Grand Mayne (St Emilion) 2003: Good, stylish plummy varietally
correct nose here. Fine, slightly creamy, balanced, with a lovely presence and
texture on the palate. Ripe, grippy tannins seem a little svelte, and although
rather prominent there is a good texture and an elegant presence of fruit.
Overall a very good package with potential. From my
Bordeaux 2003
assessment. 16.5+/20 (October 2005)
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Chateau
Grand Mayne (St Emilion) 1998: This has a beautiful hue, deeply coloured
but with a mahogany maturity. After less than an hour in the decanter it is open
and ready for business, and it gives a fine aroma of bloody meat, iron, perfumed
violets, black olives, dry charcoal and more. It is certainly enticing, and the
palate doesn't disappoint, with a medium-bodied and refined entry, plenty of
acidic freshness backed up by a core of ripe tannins through the midpalate,
rounding very nicely at the finish. The structure, which holds the wine well in
the mouth and suggests this will do well in the cellar for some time yet,
carries an array of meaty olive flavours. The end is clean and it leads to a
slowly fading finish. This is excellent, and has plenty of potential for the
future, yet it is still an absolute delight to drink now. From a tasting of
1998 Bordeaux, and this also
featured as my wine of the week. 18+/20 (August 2008)
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