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Chateau Carbonnieux
Unlike the chateaux of the more northerly Médoc, which are built largely on lands drained by the Dutch engineers just a few centuries ago, those in Graves have a much lengthier history. Chateau Carbonnieux was constructed in the late 14th Century, at the time of the Hundred Years' War, and was for a long time in the ownership of the Benedictine monks from the nearby Sainte-Croix Abbey. Incredibly, even at this early stage, there were vines at Carbonnieux, although it is surprising to note that in the centuries that followed the practice of viticulture fell by the wayside, and vines disappeared from the estate. From these monastic hands the property passed into the ownership of the Bordeaux Hospices, and then for two centuries was under the direction of the Ferron family, originally merchants from the parish of Saint-Michel in Bordeaux who went on to become powerful parliamentarians in Guyenne. Their tenure came to a gloomy end, however, when the last member of the family to hold the seat was forced into exile, and the estate was in a sorry state when it was acquired once again by the same Benedictine order from Sainte-Croix in 1741. Once again the monks planted vines, this time securing the estate's role as a vineyard which has persisted through to modern day.
During
their tenure the production level increased and the monks marketed the wine in
France and even in international markets, and no account of Carbonnieux is
complete without the somewhat apocryphal tale of the Sultan of Turkey and the
wine. He was
said to have developed a taste for Carbonnieux after it had been sold to him under
the guise of mineral water, thereby mischievously avoiding any possible conflict
with his religious leaning which forbade the consumption of alcohol. Clearly the
monks knew a business opportunity when they saw one, but of course it was all
irrelevant in the end; with the Revolution at the end of the 18th Century, the
property was confiscated and sold off as a bien national, and that was
the last Carbonnieux saw of the monks (and vice versa). The chateau and vineyard was acquired by
the Bouchereau family, who owned a large estate in the region, and during their
management of the property they established a reputation for the quality of the
wines, especially the white. The kingpin was Henri-Xavier Bouchereau who died
in 1871, subsequent to that the estate passed through numerous owners,
beleaguered as it was by phylloxera and oidium. It came to Georges Martin, a
local doctor, who was instrumental in the resurrection of the estate by the
Société Civile du Carbonnieux, then to Ernest Doutreloux and after him the
industrialist Jean-Jacques Chabrat. It was only in 1956 that the present owners,
the Perrin family, took ownership of the estate.
Unsurprisingly the property was still in a poor state, the vineyard having shrunk from 60 hectares during the 18th Century to a paltry 29 hectares, and with the infamous frost of 1956 the vines were further decimated. The chateau was in disrepair, having been uninhabited for near forty years, the vineyards were unkempt, with many missing vines having gone unreplaced, and the cellar equipment was in a sorry state as well. One of the family's first actions was to replant, their hand being forced somewhat as the aforementioned frost wreaked havoc in the vineyards. Replanting began in 1957, shortly before the chateau was listed in the Graves classification of 1959, reaching a peak in 1962, proceeding in a scheme matching the layout of the estate during the 18th Century. Slowly the estate's output picked up, but there was little financial reward for the Perrins. It was not until the 1970s that profits were sufficient for the much needed reinvestment; the construction of a new wine making facility, complemented by the addition of a new fermentation area in 1990. The vineyards today cover about 90 hectares of land, the largest vineyard of all the Graves Cru Classés, and Marc's son, Anthony Perrin, has control.
Located just ten miles from Bordeaux near the Garonne, the vineyards at
Chateau Carbonnieux are situated on a rise in the land, on gravel-rich soils
typical of the area. Near neighbours include Smith-Haut-Lafitte and
Haut-Bailly, both to the south. Chateau Carbonnieux is one of the classified
Graves chateaux, and produces both red and white cuvées under the Pessac-Léognan
appellation. The area under vine is divided roughly equally between white and red varieties,
the latter dominating slightly with about 47 hectares, leaving 43 hectares for
the white.
Average vine age is 26 years for the whites, which are 65% Sauvignon Blanc, 34%
Semillon and 1% Muscadelle, whereas the red vines average 32 years of age, these being
60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 1% Malbec and 1% Petit
Verdot. Yields are reduced by a green harvest, although only as a last resort.
The white grapes have a pre-fermentation soak, not a very common practice in the
production of many white wines, which would more often be pressed with
fermentation of the clear juice. After skin contact they are fermented in
stainless steel, with indigenous yeasts. The white once saw no wood at all, but
now sees up to nine months in barrel, with batonnage to encourage flavour
and character from the lees. The reds are fermented under temperature control,
at a temperature of about 28°C, up to a maximum of 32°C during maceration which
may go on for up to four weeks. The wine then goes into oak barrels for eighteen
months where the malolactic fermentation occurs if this has not already taken
place in vat, with up to one third new barrels each vintage. Before bottling the
wines are fined and filtered, the end result being the grand vin
Chateau Carbonnieux - red or white - although many would regard the white
(20000 cases) as the more significant and interesting cuvée. My experience of Carbonnieux takes
in a number of vintages and whilst I am quite certain that there are more
breathtaking wines in the appellation, such as Domaine de Chevalier and
Pape-Clément, quality here has remained in the ascendant in recent vintages.
Worthy examples can be found in the 2002 and 2004 vintages, as is the case with
many white wines from Graves (and elsewhere in France) the 2003 should be
avoided, especially if you look for acidity and freshness in your wines. A
successful vintage for the region as far as white wines are concerned, 2006 saw
many great whites coming out of Graves although the Carbonnieux disappointed
and the red (25000 cases), although it never challenges for top wine of the
appellation, was superior to the white in terms of absolute quality. This is
perhaps somewhat surprising as although it is well made it is usually somewhat
simpler than the white; nevertheless it is usually appropriately priced, and
again quality has been on the up. There is also a second wine, La Tour
Léognan, the introduction of which has also been a marker for the search for better
quality. I have little experience of this wine in itself though.
(25/5/05, updated 22/8/07)
Contact details:
Address: Chateau Carbonnieux, 33850 Léognan
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 57 96 56 20
Fax: +33 (0) 5 57 96 59 19
Internet:
www.carbonnieux.com
Chateau Carbonnieux - Tasting Notes
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Chateau Carbonnieux Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2007:
An attractive nose here, with a lemon curd character from the Semillon although this only accounts
for 35% of the blend, the remainder being Sauvignon Blanc. There is a fresh and vibrant style to the
fruit on the palate, which has a nice weight and an appealing grip. The acidity is rather soft and it
seems a little stretched out on the finish. Nevertheless there is some good substance here.
From my 2007 Bordeaux
primeur assessment. 15-16+/20 (April 2008)
Chateau Carbonnieux Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2006: 65% SB, 35% Sem. Not so expressive on
the nose here, rather muted, soft fruit, a touch of oak. Full style, rounded,
not the vigour of some other white Graves, a touch flabby compared to others,
full, some grip, but not so well focussed. Nice but there are better choices in this
vintage. From my 2006 Bordeaux
assessment. 14.5-15.5/20 (April 2007)
Chateau Carbonnieux (Pessac-Léognan) 2006: Attractive, open, well-defined fruit.
Appealing. Round, plump, a middleweight. Firm tannins, a touch austere, firm,
extracted, good acidity too. This certainly has appeal. It is fresher and
certainly superior to the white. From my
2006 Bordeaux
assessment. 15-16/20 (April 2007)
Chateau Carbonnieux Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2005:
This is a purer style, very slightly honeyed, with a floral and aromatic
character on the nose, with notes of vanilla and buttercream alongside the
flower petals. Full and fat impact on the palate, with more creamy vanilla
character. Soft, rounded, very direct and structured in terms of grip and
substance, and overall it has delicious style. It has some acidity, but not in
the assertive character of some other recent vintages. From my tasting of
2005 Bordeaux at
two years of age. 16+/20 (October 2007)
Chateau Carbonnieux Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2005: 65% SB, 35% Sem. More vibrant than the 2006,
which goes against the grain somewhat. Very fresh and vibrant. It has a touch
more focus than the 2006 also, although still a warm, rounded style with
underlying grip. Zippy acidity, but less lively than some of the other white
Graves of this vintage. Nevertheless, still good, bordering on very good.
From a Bordeaux tasting
with Bibendum. 16.5+/20 (April 2007)
Chateau Carbonnieux (Pessac-Léognan) 2005:
There are attractive, black fruit aromas on the nose here, but also a faint
lacing of tobacco, something I would not expect to see until the wine is more
mature. It has a good concentration of fruit, and a slightly burnt, charcoaly
character. The composition is soft and supple to the fore, but behind it there
is quite a bit of grip and an attractive, bitter streak. Overall it is
unassuming and nicely put together. From my tasting of
2005 Bordeaux at
two years of age. 16+/20 (October 2007)
Chateau Carbonnieux Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: A lovely nose, still
showing a touch of oak, but with some appealing lanolin and toast notes coming
through from the Semillon. Full and dry, fresh, nicely defined, not exactly
laser-like in its precision but nice, firm and pithy structure. Leafy and nettly
at the edges. Coming along really nicely I think, and there is a fine future
here. From the 2007 CIVB
tasting. 17+/20 (October 2007)
Chateau Carbonnieux Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: 70% SB, 30% Sem. A
good colour, one-third new oak, fresh, evocative, a touch of honey to the wood.
Firm, pithy, structured palate, with an attractive style. Grippy and full.
Appealing. I like this just a little more than my tasting in October 2006; this
is another good example of the success of the white Graves in this vintage.
17/20 (February 2007)
Chateau Carbonnieux Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2004:
This is rather closed on the nose today, and it expresses little other than
a faint nettly-mineral character. It has a very attractive palate though,
showing a limpid freshness with fine acidity and good balance. Well structured,
but unsurprisingly with very muted flavours at present, but these will open out
with time. Very good potential. From my
2004 Bordeaux
assessment. 15.5-16.5+/20 (October 2006)
Chateau Carbonnieux (Pessac-Léognan) 2004:
A really very appealing and sensuous nose of smoky jam, deeply characterful and
attractive. It has a plump, rounded, full and creamy style on the palate, with a
soft grip and decent acidity. It has a lovely presence. Rather firm beneath the
welcoming flesh. Not the definition of the finest wines, but may make delightful
drinking for many. From a tasting of
2004 Bordeaux. 16.5+/20 (April 2007)
Chateau Carbonnieux (Pessac-Léognan)
2004: Unlike the white Carbonnieux this is not at all closed; it has a
vibrant red fruit character, a melange of gravelly, raspberry notes. Firm,
solidly put together wine, perhaps a little coarse, showing a firm, tannic
structure. Seems well extracted. Has a certain rustic appeal. Good. From my
2004 Bordeaux
assessment. 15.5+/20 (October 2006)
Chateau Carbonnieux Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2003:
Attractive, rather floral nose, showing mineral character, with a little
cordite and gunpowder minerality. But the palate disappoints; rather fat,
lacking in acidity and freshness. That mineral character found on the nose is
nowhere to be seen. One to avoid. From my
2003 Bordeaux
assessment. 12/20 (October 2005)
Chateau Carbonnieux (Pessac-Léognan)
2003: A nose of blackberries and butter here, indicating a very ripe fruit
profile with some residual oak influence. Full and moderately creamy style on the palate,
with decent tannins, which are ripe and nicely composed. There is decent acidity
and blackberry fruit. This has a supple, attractive style. Rather good. Has potential.
From my 2003
Bordeaux assessment. 16+/20 (October 2005)
Chateau Carbonnieux Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2002: This wine has a moderately rich golden hue,
and the nose is
perhaps a touch exotic, although it is certainly open and very expressive. There
are aromas of honey, limes, vanilla, lanolin, baked peaches and more. It has
depth and a paradoxical creamy yet muscular nature, which carries through across
the palate where there is evident structure, with grip and good acidity
underpinning a raft of flavour. Very firmly composed, nicely focussed, upright
and defined, but with a richness that means this wine is drinkable now, although
it will doubtless give more with further time in the cellar. Excellent potential
here. Without doubt this is showing much better than my first assessment of this
wine, which was briefly encountered at a tasting in November 2004. For label images and more see my
Wine of the Week
write-up. 17+/20 (May 2008)
Chateau Carbonnieux Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2002: Rounded honey-nut
aromas, with notes of lemon curd and lime. Clean. A little plump. Fresh, dry,
still very youthful Sauvignon-dominated style. Good concentration although
rather raw. Some nice grip in the finish. Very good indeed. 16+/20 (November 2004)
Chateau Carbonnieux (Pessac-Léognan) 2001: 60% CS, 30% M, 7% CF, 3%
PV. The first was corked. The second
had a classic nose. Gravelly red-black fruits with a minerally, meaty character.
A touch lean on the palate. Moderate concentration, but nicely balanced, quite
seamless. No great depth or complexity. The rawness of youth and tannin is
apparent, but this is a very good wine in the making and shows clearly what
improvements have been made here in the last decade or two. 16.5+/20 (November 2004)
Chateau Carbonnieux Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 1997: More evolved, mature
nose. Honey nut notes still, but more of a soft, limey, Semillon style. Nice
flavour, but it doesn't have the concentration or impact of the 2002. Short
finish. 15/20 (November 2004)
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