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The Wines of Régis Camus
Régis Camus stepped into some very big shoes when he took over as cellar
master at Charles Heidsieck in 2002, following the untimely death of Daniel
Thibault. Thibault had
revitalised Charles Heidsieck, turning an average
Champagne house into one of the leading names, certainly when it came to the
quality of the non-vintage blend which, with 40% reserve wines, was looking more
and more like a multi-vintage blend along the lines of a prestige cuvée rather
than an entry level wine. And Thibault was undertaking the same task at Piper
Heidsieck, with early reports being good. Camus clearly had a lot to live up to. It did seem, however, that Camus may have had the necessary experience. After
studying oenology at Reims, he joined the firms of Piper and Charles Heidsieck
to work with Daniel Thibault in 1994. The two formed a great partnership, so
Camus has in fact already played a part in the turn around of Charles Heidsieck,
and it is perhaps only right that he should now make his own name as he puts his
hand on the tiller of Piper Heidsieck in particular.
At Charles Heidsieck Camus has continued the release of non-vintage blends with declared date of cellaring (allowing the consumer to work out the base vintage as well as distinguish otherwise identical looking bottles which can contain completely different wines, as is the case with other non-vintage wines) as well as declaring date of disgorgement on the back label. At Piper Heidsieck, however, things have really changed. In April 2004 four new non-vintage cuvées were launched, these being as follows:
- Sublime, a splendid demi-sec cuvée.
- Divin, Piper Heidsieck's first ever release of a Blanc de Blancs Champagne, made using fruit sourced from Montagne de Reims and Sézannais.
- Rosé Sauvage, a blend of fifty crus made using addition of red wine.
- Florens-Louis, named in honour of the founder of Piper-Heidsieck.
Naturally I jumped at the opportunity to taste two of the most recent releases from Régis Camus, both non-vintage cuvées. (5/11/04)
The Wines of Régis Camus - Tasting Notes
Tasted in November 2004. Click
for
stockists:
Charles Heidsieck Mis en Caves 2000 Brut Réserve Champagne NV: Pale hue, with a
very tight bead. Clean, piercing, lemon and white fruit on the nose, with green
elderflower like notes. A beautifully fresh palate, with a firm mousse opening
out into a creaminess on the midpalate. Lovely weight and crisp acidity. A
lovely, crystal-clear purity on the finish. Altogether it’s a little tight at
present, but offers some lovely primary fruit flavours. Not up to the ‘97
bottling, but ahead of the more forward ’98. Needs three to four years bottle
age. 16.5+/20
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Piper Heidsieck Cuvee Sublime Demi-Sec Champagne NV: A rich, golden
hue here, with a very tight bead indeed. What a nose – very seductive, with a
wealth of plump, smoky white fruits cut through with a minerally-stony
character. Gorgeous! The palate offers a platter of sweet and ripe tropical
fruits with nut praline nuances, with a plump texture, although overall a dry character; this is not an
overtly sweet demi-sec. The richness envelopes the palate though, in equipoise
with crisp acidity and creamy mousse. Great purity and a smoke and mineral depth
here. This is a very impressive non-vintage cuvée indeed. 18/20
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