Home > Trade Tastings > Six Wines from Tenuta di Pomine

Six Wines from Tenuta di Pomine

Tenuta di Pomine is a relatively young affair, having been established in Tuscany in 1967. The estate accounts for 30 hectares of rolling Tuscan countryside near Certaldo, situated in the heart of Chianti-country, between Siena and Florence, and it includes vineyards alongside the obligatory olive grove. The current proprietors, the Barbera family, have a history of winemaking that stretches back as far as the 19th century, although they only took control of Pomine as recently as 1982.

Under their control the portfolio has expanded to include entry-level white, rosé and red wines, all bottled as IGT wines, as well as a more classically styled Chianti, Chianti Classico Riserva (branded Sensorio) and what looks and feels like a super-Tuscan, Ledo, although it is still predominantly Sangiovese, admittedly blended with both Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. This latter wine was created in 2001 by the dynamic brother-sister partnership running this estate, Leonardo and Donatella Barbera (the brand-name a composite formed from the first two letters of each of their names). Fermented in steel at a relatively cool temperature, and then macerated on the skins whilst the malolactic fermentation ensues, the wine is then transferred into French oak for a judicious six months maturation before bottling. Sensorio is handled in a similar fashion, although here the wine sees a mere two months in oak.

The team at Tenuta di Pomine recently sent over some samples for me to try, and I tasted these wines at home last week. My tasting notes are as written below. (18/6/09)

Six Wines from Tenuta di Pomine - Tasting Notes

Tasted in June 2009. Click for stockists.

Tenuta di Pomine Le Ribotte 2008: This blend of Viognier and Trebbiano has a pale lemon-yellow hue and a crisp but gently fashioned nose of honeydew melon, apple and lemon balm. The palate starts off very lean, fresh, crisp, without great impact of flavour. It maintains this low-key style through the midpalate, always fresh and defined, with a more steely character coming through towards the finish which starts to feel a little out of kilter with the rest of the wine. The finish is certainly all structure and little fruit. A good although rather neutral foil for suitable foods; the translation of le ribotte is apparently 'country party', and I guess that is where this wine would be best received. 14/20

Tenuta di Pomine p.rosato 2008: This rosé, which I believe is pure Sangiovese, has a good colour, a deep sunset salmon-pink. There follows a creamy fruit nose, although with a nettly edge, but overall the aromatics have a rather firm character, with redcurrant, strawberry and cream. The palate is nice, deep, rounded, well composed, with a good layer of fruit. It shows some flesh although it has a very upright and polished style, rather than anything soft or welcoming. A big, firm finish rounded it all off too. On the whole, a good wine. 15/20

Tenuta di Pomine p.35 2008: This IGT red is also pure Sangiovese; the name p.35 originates from the address of the farm where the fruit is grown. It has a good, rich and fairly deep colour, but in no way is it opaque or over the top, The nose has some unusual elements at first, starting off with the aromas of sweet cola, toffee ripple ice cream, caramelised marshmallow and burnt brown sugar (from a recent malolactic fermentation, perhaps?), alongside some more genuine and attractive berry and cherry fruit. With some air these former elements largely disappear, leaving some appealing smoky cherry. The palate has a nice weight, showing lots of lovely, fresh and structured fruit presented in a very dry, sappy and bright fashion. The acidity is a touch soft, but overall it remains fresh and clean, with some nice style, grip and polish. Easy to drink, this is one wine which certainly needs a little time - in glass or bottle - before judging. 15+/20

Tenuta di Pomine Chianti di Pomine 2007: A good depth of colour in the glass, not quite opaque but certainly rich in pigment. The nose is not hugely expressive at the moment, but it does have notes of floral fruit, violets and black cherry, backed up by a rather muted but nevertheless very attractive roasted, meaty character. The palate has a good, broad, smoothly polished character, weighty but not too rich. The flavour is more savoury, although paradoxically it is backed up by an admirable texture which has a little sweet creaminess to it. Towards the finish it broadens out a little, losing some of its midpalate concentration, but it remains worthy, attractive and shows a little grip here too. It even has a little length. For a basic Chianti, blended from Sangiovese and the much maligned Caniaolo, this is good. Drink soon though, to catch the fruit. 15.5/20

Tenuta di Pomine Sensorio Chianti Classico Riserva 2006: This blend of Sangiovese and Colorino has a somewhat matt hue when poured into the glass here, and a tinge of oxblood too. The nose is rather distant and dusty, with faint meaty-cherry elements. It is clearly youthful and rather reticent. The palate is rather gentle at first, showing an elegant texture backed up by a moderate weight of fruit with just the slightest hint of creaminess to it. There is freshness and lift, but coming through in the midpalate also a chewy fruit character, with elements of savoury sun-dried tomato, dried coffee grounds and slightly high-toned dark fruits. It doesn't have the greatest or most overt delineation, but in the finish there is some substance, a little seam of fat extract, and a short but undeniable length. A good wine, but for drinking soon I think. 15.5+/20

Tenuta di Pomine Ledo 2005: This one was decanted, but only to help it to open up a little; there was certainly no sediment. The nose has some rather dry and dusty fruit, with elements of crackling bonfire, smoked meats and perhaps the first signs of true maturity, with fleeting glimpses of leather alongside fading touches of blueberry. The palate has only moderate weight, with a very dry feel to it. Slightly gritty extract, a touch spicy, certainly with some substance to it, although not for a moment could this be described as fat, sweet or opulent. In fact, with brain in super-Tuscan mode, and with weighty bottle in hand, this is the exact antithesis of what I was expecting; the reason is perhaps that Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon play only a supporting role to Sangiovese here, rather than the full-blown Bordeaux blend I though it might be before tasting. Good substance, but dry, grippy and savoury, with a slightly bitter twist at the finish. And with a length built mainly out of rather primary fruit elements, this certainly has good potential for short-term development (a year or two) in the cellar. 16+/20