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Two from Laurent-Perrier

Is it the time of year, or is it the impending tenth anniversary of the birth of Winedoctor, that causes me to be so reflective? Only last week, when writing up my Twenty-Years-On tasting of the 1989 vintage, I found myself looking back to other relevant tastings, such as 1989 Bordeaux and 1989 Champagne, both of which were very early additions to Winedoctor in May and June 2000. This week a tasting of two wines from Laurent-Perrier, sent over for me to taste by their UK PR team, led me to thinking of another of the earliest events I wrote up for Winedoctor, in August that same year. It was a tasting hosted by Wine Rack, the well-known retail arm of the First Quench group which, in a tragic blow for hundreds of employees, recently went into administration. Looking back to 2000 there was only a small selection of really interesting wines at the event, but they included a welcome opportunity to taste wines from both Ruinart and Laurent-Perrier.

On the day the wines of the latter Champagne house weren't showing that well, and that is how I wrote them up. Some time later I received an angry email from a gentleman in the wine trade, perhaps a merchant who carried Laurent-Perrier, curtly asking "who are you?"and "what tasting experience do you have?". He clearly didn't like the tone of my notes. I replied with the information requested, and then strangely never heard from him again. Perhaps, happy that I was not Tom Stevenson or Michael Edwards writing under a pseudonym, he decided simply to ignore my mildly critical notes? Whatever the reason, I have often looked back on those early notes, wondering whether I should add a full Laurent-Perrier profile to the site, especially as I have tasted many other Laurent-Perrier wines over the years. I have never done so. The arrival of these two non-vintage wines didn't change that opinion, although it certainly brought my thoughts back to this famous Champagne house once more.

Although this Champagne house does not seem to have a very high profile, some of the individual cuvées are very popular, and it is worth thinking about where this house resides within the Champagne firmament. Laurent-Perrier as we know it today owes its existence to Bernard de Nonancourt, who inherited the house from his mother, Marie-Louise de Nonancourt - who was a Lanson before she married. A war hero who fought with the French Resistance, he pulled the family firm from the brink of disaster, turning a tiny concern into - despite that relatively low profile - what is now one of the region's largest houses. Part of this success was Grand Siècle, a three-vintage prestige blend (occasionally there are also single-vintage releases) which I have already mentioned this week. In addition there was Ultra Brut, a non-dosage cuvée, which has proved popular with many. And then there was the Cuvée Rosé Brut, the third in this trio of famed non-vintage cuvées, which seems to have developed an almost unassailable position as a leader in the rosé Champagne market. A wine made using the saignée method, this almost ubiquitous Champagne fetches a remarkably high price, above that of the incredibly delicious Billecart-Salmon non-vintage rosé, and not that far behind some exalted single-vintage prestige cuvées.

This tasting opportunity, featuring the rosé alongside the non-vintage Brut L-P, was my first chance to revisit these wines in many years. (3/12/09)

Two from Laurent-Perrier - Tasting Notes

Tasted in November 2009. Click to locate stockists.

Laurent Perrier Brut L-P NV: A pale, pale golden hue here. A plentiful bead though, quite fine in size. Quite reserved and stony on the nose at first, rather reminiscent of the Loire in fact. It displays a little more largesse with time, a nose of confit lemon and yellow plum. Lovely appeal on the palate, fresh and crisp, with citrus fruits and nettles, pears and plums, with a fine, lightly creamed texture backed up by plenty of acidity and good grip. This is followed by lovely fruit on the finish, accompanied by a very vibrant and sharp mousse. Overall though, a harmonious and very accessible style. Good. 16.5/20

Laurent Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut NV: This rosé has quite a rich depth of colour, although the hue itself is still an appealing salmon-pink. Rather a fat bead on examination, and there is plenty of fruit character on the nose, with notes of sweetly perfumed strawberry and raspberry, and some floral, violet characteristics too. Quite a full style on the palate, quite creamy and a touch fat, with some peppery fruit, leading through to a lean but gritty finish which certainly has some appeal. There is a firmer style to the fruit here, underpinned by a more steely and nettly character. Overall this is a decent wine and with its full flavour and soft texture I can understand why it has such broad appeal. It would, I think, benefit from a year or two in the cellar to bring more harmony. 15.5+/20