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Wines of New Zealand from Hellion Wines

New Zealand is now firmly established as a source of fine white wines. The country burst onto the scene with brilliantly vibrant Sauvignon Blanc, but is also a source of interesting wines made from other varieties, including Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris and, despite what I said of the variety in my recent essay on Chenin Blanc, even the odd Chardonnay.

But talk in the past few years has been of New Zealand's reds, particularly Pinot Noir from Central Otago, but other styles - such as Bordeaux blends - as well. These wines are the focus of the list at Hellion Wines, a fine wine business run by Jim Ledwith. As well as the wines below, Jim also imports the wines of Carrick Estate. (30/9/04)

Wines of New Zealand - Tasting Notes

Tasted in May 2005. Click for stockists:

Bald Hills Estate Pinot Noir (Central Otago) 2002: Bald Hills is a This is a family business run by Blair and Estelle Hunt, Bald Hills Estate is already scooping up awards, having taken a gold medal in the Air New Zealand Awards for their 2002 Pinot Noir. This is despite the vineyard having been planted up as recently as 1997. The 6.5 ha estate also includes some Pinot Gris and Riesling. The wines are made by Grant Taylor of Gibbston Valley. This has a vibrant, youthful hue. Bright, fresh, acidic but ripe red and black berry fruits on the nose, an oak-derived smokiness and the suggestion of a rocky minerality. A very fresh palate, bursting with just-ripe cherries and crunchy red fruits. Ripe, balanced tannins, good acidity and a good weight too. A quite satisfactory texture as well. Should also do well in the cellar over 5-10 years. 16.5+/20

Berridge Vineyards Estates Drystone Pinot Noir (Central Otago) 2002: Berridge Vineyard Estates is the property of Dick Berridge, a landscape gardener based in the US, who just happens to also be a founding shareholder in Napa's Duckhorn Winery. The firm is committed to Pinot Noir but, like Bald Hills Estate, also has plantings of Pinot Gris and Riesling. This is another business scooping up awards by the armful, not least for its 2002 Drystone Pinot Noir. The wines are made by native New Zealander Dean Shaw. This particular wine is sourced from the Drystone (Gibbston) and Sluicings (Felton Road, Bannockburn) vineyards, and has a good, youthful hue. A nose of black brambly fruits and chalky mineral notes, melded with a lovely oak sensation, backed up by a beautiful violet and rose-petal perfume. The palate has a lovely svelte Pinot texture, plenty of fruit and ripe and gentle tannins. Very fresh, with tingly acidity, but with a lovely weight too. Altogether this is excellent now but will see out 5-10 years in the cellar with ease. 17.5+/20

Redmetal Vineyards Basket Pressed Merlot Cabernet Franc (Hawkes Bay) 2002: Named after the soil on which the vines sit, Redmetal Vineyards was established in 1991, with the planting of just 7 ha of Merlot (65%), Cabernet Sauvignon (6%) and Cabernet Franc (29%) at the edge of the Heretaunga plains in Hawkes Bay. There are a number of cuvées bottled, led in quality (and price) by The Merlot, but also including a rosé and Merlot-dominated blends. This wine also includes a little Cabernet Sauvignon reflecting the mix in the vineyard, and has a moderate density and a vibrant, youthful red hue fading just a little at the rim. Good plummy nose, with chocolate coated dark fruits but a fresh vibrancy. Still a little oak showing too, although quite subtly. Creamy, rounded, black fruits on entry, spicy oak and some fresh, peppery acidity cutting broadly across the palate. Ripe tannins underpin the wealth of fruit, showing only on the finish. There's a nervous edge of green leaf and tobacco reflecting the Cab Franc, which I like. Will do well in the cellar for up to a decade. Very good. 16+/20

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