Chateau Mouton-Rothschild (Pauillac) 1993: This wine has a moderate intensity of colour, although there is an orange-tawny tinge to the wine suggesting advancing maturity. Some complexity on the nose, with spices, nuts and some fruit. Moderate weight on the palate, and there is still some tannin around although this is not problematic. Seems short on fruit, though, and a little thin through the midpalate. Some spice and nut character despite this, though, and fairly soft acidity. Those tannins are just about ready, so drinking about a year from now I would say. 15/20

Chateau Mouton-Rothschild (Pauillac) 1994: This wine has a much more promising colour. A moderately dense youthful purple, with no real sign of age around the rim. A pleasing nose, with roasted nut and blackcurrant aromas, more classically Mouton than the 93. Good fruit on the palate, backed up by some weight and integrating tannins. Correct acidity means this classic, fairly stylish wine is a keeper. Should reach maturity in 5-10 years. 15.5+/20

Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 1996: A great, deep purple colour leads to a nose of cassis fruit, with a classic stony-mineral St Julien edge appearing, not present on last tasting. A fruit-packed palate, with lovely texture and impressive structure. Less austere than last time, but still a real keeper. Expect to cellar for 10 years or more. 18+/20

Domaine des Bosquets Gigondas 'Préférence' (Rhone) 1999: The gloriously intense, deep purple black hue exhibited by this wine is pleasing to the eye. On the nose, classic Gigondas, redolent of many holidays I have spent in the Southern Rhône. Roasted Garrigue herbs lie beneath a layer of dry, pure, smoky, earthy cherry fruit. Medium to full bodied, with a presence of firm, spicy tannins and a glycerol edge to the texture which makes an impact on the palate. More earthy cherry fruit, and more drying tannins on the finish. Deliciously put together, with good potential for further development. 17.5+/20

Trimbach Gewurztraminer Vendanges Tardives 1997: Pure, aromatic, spicy Gewurztraminer character on the nose, which also strongly suggests a good degree of residual sugar. No surprises on the palate then, which has plenty of aromatic fruit, low acidity and a superb texture. Wonderful stuff. 18/20

Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano "Asinone" 1997: A good and fairly deep purple hue. Delightful nose, full of classic Sangiovese aromas of plum, black cherry and rose-petal tobacco, as well as quality, tanned leather. Medium bodied on the palate, with superb, pure black cherry fruit again, with a sweet, oak-derived toffee and chocolate edge. Fine, dry tannins which are prominent towards the finish, although this doesn't spoil the experience. Typically prominent, savoury and mouth-watering razor sharp acidity, so it works well with food. 18/20

Niepoort Secundum Vintage Port 1999: Impressive, dark colour. The nose is powerful, packed with chocolate and fruit, with an elegant, fresh character. Tightly wound youth and power in abundance on the palate, with the elegance that the nose suggests. The wine at first cries "drink me now", until the tannins kick in trough the midpalate, leading to a mouth-puckering finish. Brilliant stuff, tight, structured and tannic. Needs 5-10 years, but following that should drink well for several decades. 17.5+/20

Niepoort Quinta do Passadouro Vintage Port 1999: A similarly impressive colour. More open and developed on the nose than the Secundum, with pickling spice complexity alongside the fruit. Full, round and open on the palate, with less prominent tannins than the previous wine. I'm sure there are many who would drink this now. I would leave it a few more years yet. Delightful. 17.5+/20

Cloudy Bay Te Koko (Marlborough, New Zealand) 1999: Intense New World Sauvignon fruit on the nose, which leads to a classic palate full of fresh white fruit, with considerable power. Surprising weight and creamy texture for this variety, reflecting the barrel fermentation, 100% malolactic and eighteen months lees contact that this wine has undergone - very unusual treatment for a Sauvignon. It's backed up by great acidity. This is clearly one of New Zealand's top efforts. 17/20