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Zind Humbrecht

Father and son team Léonard and Olivier Humbrecht run Zind Humbrecht, one of the greatest domaines in Alsace. The domaine was created in 1959, following the marriage of Léonard Humbrecht and Geneviève Zind. Léonard Humbrecht has made his mark on the world of wine, turning out truly splendid wines year after year, from a number of vineyard sites across Alsace. Their son, Olivier, has not hidden behind his father's achievements. The first Frenchman to qualify as a Master of Wine, he has taken up the mantle with great skill, and continues to produce an astonishing array of high quality wines. This is remarkable, considering the number of different varieties with which the domaine works, and the range of different sites which they cultivate. There are numerous reasons why the wines of Zind Humbrecht are so successful. Their numerous vineyard sites, totalling 30 hectares in all, are all top quality and this, together with a commitment to low yields, are two of the most important. A typical yield for Zind Humbrecht vines is 35 hl/ha rather than the legally acceptable for Grand Cru vineyards, which is 70 hl/ha. Léonard Humbrecht has always been a believer in letting the characteristics of a vineyard show through the application of low yields. His commitment to working with the finest terroirs in Alsace and allowing them to shine in this way led him to purchase steep, difficult sites such as Rangen and Clos Windsbuhl. These were sites which other growers were only too keen to sell, as they were not workable using mechanised techniques, a problem Zind Humbrecht solved by working the land using horses.

The domaine owns vines in the following Grand Cru vineyards:

• Hengst: a steep, south-east facing vineyard, with scree soils over marl, near Wintzenheim
• Brand: a legendary Grand Cru with steep south and south-east facing slopes, and a variety of soil types, just on the edge of Turckheim
• Rangen: with steep south facing slopes, and a mixture of volcanic rocks and ash with fine sandstone, adjacent to Thann
• Goldert: which has mostly gentle east facing slopes, with calcareous soils, clay and sandstone over limestone

Zind Humbrecht also produce wines from a number of lieux-dits (single vineyards), which are not accorded Grand Cru status but nevertheless clearly have superb potential. These wines are no less impressive than those from the sites mentioned above.

• Rotenberg: a rocky, iron and mineral-rich vineyard abutting Grand Cru Hengst
• Herrenweg: an alluvial, silt and granite site south of Turckheim
• Heimbourg: a limestone vineyard abutting Brand, and once sold as Brand until the official delimitation of that vineyard

Zind Humbrecht also own three of Alsace's few walled vineyards (clos). These are all monopoles, meaning that the Humbrechts own the vineyard in its entirety.

• Clos Windsbuhl: a terraced limestone and clay site, which many feel produces their greatest wines
• Clos Hauserer: a marly limestone site at the foot of Grand Cru Hengst, planted solely with Riesling
• Clos Jebsal: another terraced site, of marl and limestone, abutting Grand Cru Brand, which produces excellent Pinot Gris

The domaine also has a reputation for exacting vineyard and winery practices, with high density planting, alcoholic fermentation in oak and avoiding the malolactic fermentation. It's impossible to discuss practices at Zind Humbrecht without touching on their belief in biodynamic principles. A radical extension of organic techniques, biodynamism sees Léonard and Olivier Humbrecht organising vineyard tasks according to the phases of the moon and burying cow horns to improve the vitality of the soil, among other unusual practices. It all sounds a little crazy, but Zind Humbrecht are just one of many great producers who have fallen under the biodynamic spell.

I have no doubt that Zind Humbrecht is one of the greatest domaines in Alsace, and many consider them the greatest. The style is not to everyone's taste, but regardless of one's preferences (I personally have come to enjoy the wines greatly) their commitment to quality cannot be denied. The tasting notes below give some account of the wines, by no means comprehensive. The astute will note some wines reappearing several times, these being bottles from my own cellar viewed at several different time points in the evolution of the wines. (7/5/03)

Contact details:
Address: 4, route de Colmar, 68230 Turckheim
Telephone: +33 (0) 3 89 27 02 05
Fax: +33 (0) 3 89 27 22 58

Zind Humbrecht - Tasting Notes

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Zind Humbrecht Zind (Vin de Table) Z006: I wasn't sure what to expect from this wine; deep colour, well-poised largesse and a big helping of residual sugar would be a reasonable expectation considering the producer in question. Certainly the colour is evident in the glass, it being a deep but bright lemon-gold. On the nose, too, it seems to have something that speaks of Zind-Humbrecht and Alsace, although this wasn't tasted blind so such superficial and subjective impressions are obviously greatly prone to suggestion. Being objective, there is an appealing, crystalline style of fruit, dripped with a little honey that does indeed seem to suggest richness and sugar, but providing something of a sense of olfactory balance there are notes of white flower petals, crunchy blackcurrant leaves and a hint of the almost obligatory Zind minerality, which has a very powdery-rocky style. On the palate it kicks off with some texture, suggesting residual sugar, but immediately it flattens out and through the midpalate and finish this is broad, gently fleshy but really very dry. There is a delicious defining acidity, but overall the impression is of polished weight with matching acid, rather than profound vibrancy. Really rather more zippy and lively towards the finish though, with pure lemon and peppery, leafy fruit throughout. This is really delicious, especially for a summer's evening. Who needs appellations? For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 17+/20 (July 2009)

Zind Humbrecht Riesling Heimbourg 2003: Indice 1. This wine has a decent colour, a pale lemon gold. The nose is unusual, offering little to suggest Riesling; from the outset it yields soapy, perfumed aromas rather reminiscent of a mix of chewy Turkish Delight and chalky confectionery. Full entry, but rather hollow through the midpalate, and again showing plenty of over-the-top tart's boudoir character, with no grit or character beneath. A little soapy fat, certainly deficient in acidity, unappealing and unbalanced. Even the talented Olivier Humbrecht cannot defy the effects of Europe's heatwave vintage. This is not a bargain at any price; avoid, in my humble opinion. 13.5/20 (June 2006)

Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris Heimbourg 2001: Indice 4. This has a vibrant straw-gold hue which is promising, and the nose is also very pleasing, offering up lots of Pinot Gris character, which I find always gives a rich melange of tropical fruit aromas when nicely ripe. This has little notes of crispy bacon fat too. The immediate impression on the palate is that the intensity of flavour does not quite match the plump texture, which gives the wine a hollow note, but through the midpalate the wine opens out and reveals more mineral, perfumed and floral fruit which sits quite nicely on the plump cushion of residual sugar. I would prefer a little more firm acidity, but I cannot deny this is good wine, especially with the flourish of flavour present on the finish. A bargain, too, at just over a tenner a bottle. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 17/20 (June 2006)

Zind Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Clos Windsbuhl 1999: A rich, intense, golden hue in the glass. The nose is vibrant, richly perfumed and complex; first off there are notes of tangerine and orange blossom, then lychee and crispy bacon; there is a firm minerality behind it too. It is as rich on the palate as the nose suggests, starting off creamy and broad, but with a delicious bitter backbone giving it some structure. And although Gewurztraminer is supposed to be a low-acid variety, there is a nice, tingling core of acid behind the overt residual sugar here, easily sensed at the tip of the tongue, giving this wine freshness and lift. Long, well defined, still nicely held together, and with good structure, this is a lovely wine; for my palate it is still too sweet to drink as anything other than a dessert wine, even with nearly a decade in bottle, nevertheless it is still very good indeed. From my 1999 vintage Ten Years On tasting. 18/20 (December 2009)

Zind Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Clos Windsbuhl 1999: The second bottle opened, the first one being subtly corked. A fairly deep golden colour. The nose gives a real 'wow', with a platter of lychees and apples smothered in fresh honey and cream; this combines vibrancy and elegant style in a rarely found manner. Lovely varietal character. Rich, pure, balanced, crisp and fresh. A little creamy on the palate, around the edge. Very fine, and a slightly higher score than my last tasting. 18.5/20 (March 2005)

Zind Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Clos Windsbuhl 1999: A little deeper in colour. A very expressive nose, full of volcanic rocks, with a almond praline note and exotic, perfumed, lychee fruit. Definitely some development here - this is much less primary than my last tasting. The palate is rich, fat, saturated in flavour and texture, concentrated and expressive. A well composed wine, showing appropriate balance - elegance even - despite acidity being typically on the low side. A very strong showing. 18/20 (June 2004)

Zind Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Clos Windsbuhl 1999: A simply glorious colour, a deep burnished golden wine. Intense nose, showing classic Gewurztraminer aromas - sizzling bacon fat, with ripe, tropical, rose-petal edged lychee and tangerine fruit. It has a powerful impact. Immediately luscious on entry, fat and creamy, with typically low acidity. Lovely weight, and quite some grip. Ripe lychee and pineapple fruit, leading into a cream and citrus fruit finish. This is delicious, structured stuff that is sure to improve in bottle. Drink over the next ten years. 18+/20 (May 2003)

Zind Humbrecht Pinot d'Alsace 1998: A pleasant golden hue in the glass, although it is not an intensely coloured wine. The nose is rich, dripping with pineapple and other tropical fruits, with a sprinkling of spice. The residual sugar is immediately apparent on entry, giving a soft, luscious, sweet, slightly oily feel to the wine, but this is set off by deliciously fresh acidity. There is a mealy character to the tropical fruit flavours, and the spicy edge suggest by the nose is present. It seems likely to me that there is a healthy dollop of Pinot Gris in this wine. Finishes cleanly. 16.5/20 (November 2001) Label

Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris Rotenberg 1998: A moderate depth of colour, with a lemon-gold hue. Nevertheless, a very opulent nose, brimming with honeyed tropical fruits, particularly pineapple, as well as nuances of toffee and gently bruised apples. Most apparent on entry is the very high residual sugar this wine carries, a well known Zind Humbrecht trait. With low acidity it did therefore tend towards blowsiness at anything other than the optimal temperature. Otherwise it seemed rich and full of character, with a seamless texture. Fantastic honey and fried pineapple flavours, which persisted through the endpalate and on to the superb length, which went on and on. I found this a delightful sipping wine, but it didn't hold up so well with food, and it certainly wasn't to everybody's taste. 17.5/20 (October 2001) Label

Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris Heimbourg 1998: A couple of years have passed since I last tasted this wine. The nose is certainly less exuberantly fruit-filled than I recall, and it shows more complex notes of bacon, face cream, pear and vanilla. The palate has a fine weight and definition, packed with the detailed flavours suggested by the nose, with a very whole, complete, vanilla and cream-tinged character. Beautifully composed, slightly white-peppery with soft acidity, but above all rich and of considerable substance, this is remarkably good wine. Like the Hengst Gewurztraminer that follows, a hugely exotic and flashy wine that tends to domineer on the palate, but all the same, this is really good as an occasional treat. From my 1998 vintage Ten Years On tasting. 17/20 (November 2008)

Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris Heimbourg 1998: A rich, golden hue, and dripping with rich aroma on the nose, too; very open and expressive, redolent of fruit salad especially pears, with a spicy bacon note. Really appealing, a full and well defined palate, with a mellow, marrowy texture, but nicely framed by correct acidity and a little peppery grip. Nicely composed and very popular on the night. A Christmas Wine. 16.5/20 (December 2006)

Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris Heimbourg 1998: A fine, golden colour. Just as exotic and ripe as ever on the nose, which is dripping with sweet fruit salad, spicy pear and glace cherry. Served nicely chilled; this helps to combat the wealth of residual sugar present here, and the low acidity. Rich, creamy mouthfeel, with a white pepper edge which sits nicely with some notes of bacon. Fat, developing complexity through the midpalate, where there is a palpable depth. Intrinsically lovely, although I find it unpredictably sweet, but the interest is there; I certainly enjoyed drinking it. 16.5/20 (March 2006)

Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris Heimbourg 1998: A rich, golden colour. The nose remains unchanged, and classically Pinot Gris, being full of pears and tropical fruit salad, although there are hints of complexity; notes of bacon and buttercream. A wealth of residual sugar on the palate which has a rich, creamy mouthfeel. This smothers the acidity a little, but it is there. More pear and spicy fruit salad flavour. Not everyone's favourite style, but certainly very impressive. 16/20 (June 2004)

Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris Heimbourg 1998: Good golden colour. Ripe, open nose, displaying a tropical fruit salad of pineapple, peach and pear, and then immediately on entry the elegance shows, with a fine, light texture which quickly fattens up through the midpalate to a richness more typical of this producer. Delicious peach fruit flavours. Fine, fresh, slightly tingling well balanced acidity. Lovely weight, and a rich, lingering, opulent finish. Drink over the next ten years. 16.5/20 (May 2003)

Zind Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Hengst 1998: Unbelievably it seems as though, reviewing my notes, that it is over three years since I last tasted this wine. It has only improved in that time, with wonderful complexity on the nose now, bacon and lychee dominating, but with plenty of minerality too. This comes through on the palate which has a huge seam of white pepper give the midpalate plenty of lift, which it needs as I cannot deny this has a huge, weighty, double-cream texture. It isn't so sweet per se any more(although it certainly isn't dry!), but it certainly has lots of fat and substance. Later on it seemed a little disjointed and displayed some bare alcohol, but this was as much an interaction with food served than any element of the wine itself. I enjoyed drinking this wine, although it is something I appreciate as a rare and opulent treat rather than something I could drink everyday. All the same, excellent. From my 1998 vintage Ten Years On tasting. 18/20 (November 2008)

Zind Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Hengst 1998: Gorgeous nose, showing some development; this wine now speaks as much of Hengst as it does of Gewurztraminer. There are fabulous stony, minerally, chalky terroir notes alongside tangerine, orange and lychee essence of Gewurztraminer. Beautifully ripe and focused palate, showing better balance than when last tasted, perhaps as the opulent sweetness has faded a little over the past year. Great minerality and flavour. 18/20 (October 2005)

Zind Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Hengst 1998: Another rich and golden hue. A very varietally true nose, a heady and perfumed experience, with lychees and bacon. Very, very open and expressive. A full, creamy palate, with appealing, tingling acidity - sometimes a problem with Gewurztraminer, and certainly on the low side - but it just copes with the opulent mouthfeel. Buttercream (again!), lychee and tropical fruit, and a bitter quinine twist at the finish. Remains fresh throughout. Very impressive. 17/20 (June 2004)

Zind Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Hengst 1998: A good colour. Full, heady, tropical fruit nose, with a touch of bacon fat. This has elegance combined with richness. Full, structured, somewhat earthy on the palate. A smoky, peppery note. Creamy opulence. Low acidity, the norm with Gewurztraminer, but there is some grip. The residual sugar may put some drinkers off. I think it's great - an element of bias no doubt. 17.5/20 (September 2003)

Zind Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Hengst 1998: A lovely golden hue. At first it's dominated by intense fruit aromas, of tangerine, white peach and lychee. Then it develops a more complex, savoury bacon fat, rose petal character, with some notes of botrytis. Deliciously fat on entry, becoming really creamy and opulent through the midpalate. The texture persists through to the finish, with typically low acid but a pleasing, tingling spice. Crispy bacon fat notes with some floral elements. Drink over the next eight years. 17/20 (May 2003)

Zind Humbrecht Riesling Heimbourg 1997: This wine bears a delightful and intense nose full of honey coated tropical fruit salad, bathed in the juice of citrus fruits, and with a sense of spice. Immediately apparent on the palate is the typical rich texture of Zind Humbrecht wines, although this is less prominent than in many of their other cuvées. There is also superb acidity which helps to keep the wine in balance. The flavour profile follows the nose, with lots of spicy tropical fruits, with a slightly bitter edge providing some bite and interest. It finishes with a great flourish of spice and some length. Unlike other ZH wines which I only ever sip alone, this example also went quite well with food, although I still think it was at its best when sipped as an aperitif. 17.5/20 (December 2001) Label

Zind Humbrecht Riesling Clos Hauserer 1988: Firm, steely nose of lime and minerals. Very fresh, zippy acidity on entry, with lime and steel austerity. Over this firm structure there is good texture, which really fleshes out on the finish. Good length. Remarkable vivacity at approaching sixteen years of age. Those with a mind to cellar for longer can do so safely. 17/20 (March 2004)

Zind Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Hengst 1988: A characterful nose here, full of classic aromas of mandarins, lychees and bacon. The palate is full with plenty of texture. Quite dry now. Firm and structured, with notes of lychee, orange fruit and marmalade coming through towards the finish. Showing well, but for drinking up rather than keeping. 17/20 (March 2004)