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Vieux Chateau Certan

Vieux Chateau Certan provided me with one of those rare vinous experiences where, with the very first contact with the wines, perhaps even the very first sip, you immediately fall in love. So it was with a mini-vertical tasting I attended back in 2002, when we looked at six vintages from the property, taking in acclaimed or at least good right bank vintages such as 1995 and 1989, but also vintages which might not be your first choice if presented with the option - 1993 and 1975, for instance. From the better years the wines were seductive and hedonistic, yet also complex and structured, fresh and lively. Even more tellingly, however, the wines from the less exalted vintages also wowed. If anything told me these were great wines, that this must be a great terroir, then it was that.

As is often the case the very early origins of the Vieux Chateau Certan estate are unclear. There is a suggestion that the chateau buildings originated, at least in part, in the 16th Century, but exactly when the vines appeared is not known with certainty. What is known is that in 1785, when Belleyme had produced his map of the region (a facsimile of which I was first shown by Catherine Mouiex when I visited Chateau Taillefer) the estate here went by the name of Sertan. The owners, the Demay family, were very active in the region, as négociants and also as landlords. During their tenure of this grand estate a number of plots of land were sold, and thus both Petit-Certan (subsequently to be Certan de May) and Vieux Chateau Certan were created.

In 1858 the estate subsequently came to Charles de Bousquet, a banker, who made some investments including some work on an attractive chateau, although on the whole this venture was not a success. In 1924 the modern era began with the acquisition of the estate by Georges Thienpont. Georges had not long acquired Chateau Troplong-Mondot in St Emilion, and I think it was this latter estate that was he preferred. Being of Belgian origin Thienpont spent much of his time away from Bordeaux, but when in the region he always stayed at Troplong, and Vieux Chateau Certan was one of those sad properties that remained permanently devoid of human habitation. Within a decade or two, however, this was to change. The depression and war of the early 20th Century had a great impact on the wine trade, and in a time of financial hardship Thienpont was forced to sell one of his estates. As Troplong was the more profitable and the more attractive to any potential buyer, it was this estate that went on the market, leaving Thienpont with his little interest next door in Pomerol. It was not, in the long run, a bad decision. Following World War II Georges and his son, Léon, poured their time and money into the estate, and the chateau became Léon's home.

The result of the Thienpont family's commitment was a fabulous increase in the quality of the wines. I would like to say that this has been a trait that has been carried across the decades, through to today, in an unbroken run, but that would not be true. During the 1970s and 1980s the quality faltered, and the sheen on Vieux Chateau Certan was a little tarnished - although having tasted the 1975, and the 1982 twice, these are still hugely impressive wines. Nevertheless, in 1985 Léon died, and the estate came to his son Alexandre, and with this change Vieux Chateau Certan has again soared. As my tasting experience has indicated to me, the wines of Vieux Chateau Certan are some of the most delicious in Bordeaux, never mind Pomerol alone. Alexandre's commitment shows through not only in the wines, but it can be seen at the property also, and is perhaps best illustrated by an extensive renovation of the cellars, originally constructed in 1972, which was completed in 2002

The Vieux Chateau Certan vineyard lies very close to the church in Pomerol, with plenty of famous neighbours including Pétrus, La Conseillante, Petit-Village and of course Certan de May. The terroir here is Gunzian in origin, the vines planted in various clay soils spiced with many large pebbles, over deeper ferruginous subsoils. Altogether there are 14 hectares of vines planted in a single block, the varieties employed being 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. They are pruned in the usual Bordelais fashion, double Guyot, and during the summer there is crop thinning to control yields and improve ventilation. The harvest proper is naturally manual, with a rigorous selection in the vineyard carried out at the end of each row of vines. In the chai there is a gentle crushing before temperature-controlled fermentation in oak vats, each variety vinified separately, the Cabernet Franc at 30ºC and the Merlot at 32ºC. There is a maceration of up to three weeks to extract colour and tannin, and when finished the embryonic wine is run off into French oak barrels, 50% new, where the wine rests for up to 22 months. Tasting of the wine from barrel will determine those that will contribute to the different wines, and the eventual blend. The barrels are racked regularly, before an eventual fining and bottling without filtration. The grand vin is Vieux Chateau Certan, of which less than 5000 cases are produced per annum, and quality is aided by the existence of a second wine, Gravette de Certan.

Over many years the terroir at this estate has proven itself again and again. Yes, there have been some less admirable vintages, but many in recent years have been fabulous. The wines have a deep colour, complexity and a velvety texture, and they are integrated with a fine structure which belies the significant role both Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon play in the wine. I think it is perhaps this latter aspect that I find so appealing, but it is the whole package that makes these wines brilliant. Although my tasting experiences have been few and far between since that date in 2002, I have not been shy of adding more recent vintages, especially the reputedly fabulous 2004, to the cellar. (21/3/02, updated 25/1/08)

Contact details:
Address: Vieux Chateau Certan, 33500 Pomerol
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 57 51 17 33
Fax +33 (0) 5 57 25 35 08
Internet: www.vieux-chateau-certan.com

Vieux Chateau Certan - Tasting Notes

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1995

Vieux Chateau Certan 1995: This is clearly a more youthful wine, with a dense youthful purple hue. The nose has typical youthful aromas of fresh coffee grounds and black fruits. Lovely fruit on the palate, a massive yet luscious structure, rich and firm tannins and great acidity. A brilliant wine in the making, although delicious now. 18.5+/20 (March 2002)

1993

Vieux Chateau Certan 1993: This is a dense, purple-black wine, with no sign of age at the rim. The nose is dominated by dense, black fruits and smoky oak. The palate is flashy but structured. An amazing, creamy, luscious texture carries plenty of fruit, with soft, supple tannins and balanced acidity. A showy wine, although there is some sense of elegance on the finish. 18/20 (March 2002)

1989

Vieux Chateau Certan 1989: This wine has a deeper, warmer, darker red hue, with the barest tinge of tawny to it. The nose is very distinctive, not to mention gorgeous, packed with oriental spices, black beans, ginger and coconut. Immediately evident on entry is the wonderful texture, which is soft and luscious, but backed up by supple tannins and correct acidity. More black bean and oriental flavours. Delightful. 19/20 (March 2002)

1985

Vieux Chateau Certan 1985: There is a rich, tawny, mature edge to this otherwise deep red wine. The nose seems very mature, full of woody, leathery, game and animal character, and again the metallic edge noted on previous wines. The palate is full, sweet and rounded, but has good structure. A delicious integration of flavour, texture, tannins and acidity. Wonderful wine, drinking beautifully now. 18.5/20 (March 2002)

1982

Vieux Chateau Certan 1982: This deep red wine has just a moderate note of tawny at the rim. The nose is packed with an amazing quality of roasted herbs and toasted fruits. There's no disappointment on the palate, which has lusciously textured fruit and soft, supple tannins and fine acidity. There is another iron-like metallic note, but otherwise this is a wonderful, balanced wine. 18/20 (March 2002)

Vieux Chateau Certan 1982: A rich deep red with a tawny hint. Beautiful fruit on the nose. The palate follows with lovely fruit and spice, delightful weight and impeccable balance. Some tannins on the finish, lovely length. Delicious. From a Pomerol multi-vintage tasting. 18/20 (June 2000)

1975

Vieux Chateau Certan 1975: A mature, red tawny hue here. The nose is quite intense, with tarry, rose petal and roasted herb aromas. The palate is rich, warm and round. There is gorgeous fruit, with a slight metallic edge, but there is also a great, almost ethereal elegance. It doesn't, however, have the harmonious balance that one might hope for. Nevertheless, a great wine. 18/20 (March 2002)