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Trimbach

The Trimbach family has a wine-making history stretching back almost 400 years, the firm having come into existence in 1626. It was not until the late 19th century, however, under the leadership of Frédéric-Emile Trimbach, that the business began to really expand. Success came when he exhibited the wines at an international fair in Brussels in 1898, to much acclaim. Since the days of Frédéric-Emile the house of Trimbach has remained a family run business, based in Ribeauvillé, for much of this time with brothers Bernard and Hubert at the helm although today it is their sons, Jean and Pierre, that are in charge. Pierre busies himself with true work of a viticulteur, looking after the vines and running the harvest, whereas Jean has his hand on marketing and publicity. It is he that travels to show the wines at dinners and tastings, and thus it was Jean that I met most recently in London.

The Trimbach family currently own vineyards scattered across three villages, with an emphasis on planting Riesling and Gewurztraminer, and the style associated with the house is one of dry structure, flavoursome with firm acidity where appropriate, and - in the table wines at least - never an ounce of detectable residual sugar despite the ripeness of the fruit. They are food friendly in a variety of situations, and are the antithesis of the sweet-is-the-new-dry phenomenon that has swept Alsace in recent years. They also age very well, demonstrating from the outset a fine balance.

The Trimbach vines have about 40 years of age on average, and are cared for along lines that resemble lutte raisonnée, with a reasoned and restricted approach to the use of chemicals including insecticides and fertilisers. The best sites include the grands crus Rosacker, Osterberg and Geisberg, and these vines are very relevant to the top wines. The firm has a great reputation for Riesling in particular, the Clos Ste Hune (from a 1.3 hectare lieu-dit within Grand Cru Rosacker) and the Cuvée Frédéric Emile (from Grands Crus Osterberg and Geisberg) probably being their best known wines. Many regard the Clos Ste Hune as the finest wine of Alsace, if not one of the world's greatest white wines. Production is certainly limited, with typically less than 600 cases per annum. Cuvée Frédéric Emile, bearing the name of history's most significant Trimbach, which is produced from vines of over 30 years of age, also has an excellent reputation, as well as being more affordable and widely distributed. It is worth noting, however, that neither label will declare the vineyard of origin, nor its grand cru status. Since the creation of the grand cru appellations in Alsace a number of viticulteurs have shunned the system, and Trimbach is one of the most notable names to do so. The issue the Trimbach family have with the grand cru classification is the delineation of the vineyards; in a number of cases they have extensive boundaries which bear no relation to terroir or any other feature that might be regarded as relevant to the quality of the wines originating from the site. It is also a concern voiced by Tom Stevenson writing in his excellent book, The Wines of Alsace, published in 1993.

Thus it was nothing less than a surprise to learn in 2008 that Trimbach would, for the first time, label some wines according to their grand cru status. This radical change was not to affect the whole Trimbach portfolio, however, but related only to wines produced in conjunction with the Couvent de Ribeauvillé. The family have had a longstanding relationship with the convent, which has nearly 8 hectares of vineyards, of which some - in the Grand Cru Geisberg - have for many years provided fruit for Cuvée Frédéric Emile. The new deal gave the Trimbach family complete control over the convent's estate, which also includes a plot in Grand Cru Kirchberg; the only difference is that they will be declared, where appropriate, as grand cru, and those wines made solely from the convent's fruit will bear the name of the Couvent de Ribeauvillé on the label.

Moving on from Riesling, Trimbach also produce excellent Gewurztraminer, with the highest expression of the variety chez Trimbach being the Cuvée des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre. Although the variety in question tends towards fatter, low acid wines, the wine here is a very ripe - but still dry - perfumed, aromatic style which is made in only the better years.

Trimbach are not particularly known for their red wines, but they do produce a basic Pinot Noir as well as a Reserve Personelle, as well as basic cuvées of many of the typical Alsatian varieties, including Riesling, Muscat, Pinot Blanc and Sylvaner. Last, but certainly not least, are the late harvest wines. Trimbach produce both Sélection de Grains Nobles and Vendanges Tardives wines, made from Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris or Muscat. These make a departure from the classic Trimbach style as they naturally exhibit residual sugar and possibly also characteristics of noble rot, but they still have the necessary acidity to maintain balance and freshness.

One of my more recent exposures to the wines of Trimbach was with Jean himself, and we tasted three wines. Knowing the Trimbach style, I naively expected Jean himself to somehow reflect the qualities of the wines. He would perhaps be rather austere, upright and serious, and maybe very considered in his approach. At first glance this preconception might have been reinforced, as I caught sight of Jean wearing a smart blue blazer, looking every inch the professional. But I was soon enlightened. Jean is a lively, amiable character with a boisterous streak who provides both entertainment and instruction when it comes to his and Pierre's wines. He has great knowledge, offers honest opinions, and is immensely approachable. I was sorry that I could not taste more extensively, or spend longer in his company, especially as I found the wines I did assess to give such pleasure. (21/4/04, updated 4/9/08)

Contact details:
Address: 15 route de Bergheim, 68150 Ribeauvillé
Telephone: +33 (0) 3 89 73 60 30
Fax: +33 (0) 3 89 73 89 04
Internet: www.maison-trimbach.fr

Trimbach - Tasting Notes

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Trimbach Riesling 2005: A very pale wine, with a very classic, firm but reserved nose. It is not the most expressive wine though. A nice character on the palate, dry and structured, bright and lively. A good weight and texture through the midpalate. Unfussy, but a good style, and very typical of Trimbach. From a France Under One Roof tasting. 16/20 (March 2008)

Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile 2003: Released before the 2002 vintage as it is for drinking sooner, Jean Trimbach tells me. Sourced from Grand Cru Osterberg, with no acidification. A very exuberant nose, full, fruity, expressive and a little sherbetty. The palate has a soft but full character, showing some acidity through the midpalate although it is otherwise rather subtle. Slightly chalky notes. Jean says it reflects the vintage, and I would agree with him. It is flattering, but does not have the incisive style I would look for here. From a France Under One Roof tasting. 15.5+/20 (March 2008)

Trimbach Gewurztraminer Cuvée des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre 2001: The fruit here had 14º potential alcohol at harvest, and there is just 8 g/l residual sugar. It has a lovely nose, with plenty of ripe Gewurztraminer character, aromatic but not overly perfumed, with notes of lychees and rose petals. This is very appealing, structured, with good acidity for this variety. Showing good balance and style, and it has some grip on the finish, this is an impressive wine. From a France Under One Roof tasting. 17+/20 (March 2008)

Trimbach Gewürztraminer 2000: Served blind. Fairly pale wine. A classic Gewurztraminer nose - floral, heady and perfumed, but with an almost medicinal cough-candy note. On entry it is quite full, a touch fat, with typical perfumed lychee fruit. Where's the acidity? I found none to oppose the sweet richness on the palate. This wine seems completely out of balance. Not a style that suggested Trimbach to me. 12/20 (September 2003)

Trimbach Pinot Blanc 1999: A pale golden wine. Spiced pears and a touch mealy on the nose. The palate is soft and quite rounded, with a touch of creamy fatness. It's very much in the Trimbach style, quite dry, somewhat elegant, without any great richness. The acidity is soft and unobtrusive, and there are some pleasing pear, fruit salad and mineral flavours. A strong vein of peppery spice comes through on the midpalate, persisting through to the finish. This would make a good food wine, but I prefer Pinot Blanc when the vigneron has extracted a greater depth of flavour and richness from it. 15/20 (November 2001) Label

Trimbach Muscat Reserve 1999: A pale colour. On the nose there are quite delicate aromas typical of Muscat, with some orange peel, floral fruit and just the barest hint of spice. Bone dry. Although it has some floral fruit as the nose suggested it might, it has none of the weight or texture associated with a touch of residual sugar that suits Muscat so well. It is so dry that it seems unbalanced, otherwise the delicate fruit seems well married with the 12% alcohol. 15.5/20 (August 2001) Label

Trimbach Cuvée Frédéric Emile Riesling 1998: From half bottles. Crystal clear pale golden wine. An impressive nose, pure but very forceful and expressive, brimming with lime fruit character and a decent seam of rocky, minerality. Very full and weighty on the palate, dry and with good grip beneath the appealing flesh. Some good substance here, and plenty of peppery spice rounding up on the end. Quite gently composed, balanced somewhat zippy acidity, broad and with a little punch at the finish, this is really lovely. Although last time (four years ago) I suggested it wasn't ageworthy, I think this should be fine for years yet. From my 1998 vintage Ten Years On tasting. 17+/20 (November 2008)

Trimbach Cuvée Frédéric Emile Riesling 1998: From a half bottle. A pale colour. Lovely, open, expressive nose, with notes of crushed rocks and smoke alongside the lime fruit. The palate is fresh, very approachable, with soft, prickling acidity. The fruit profile is a touch more exotic than usual. Less structured and age-worthy than the 1997, but more approachable right now, admittedly from a small format. 16.5+/20 (August 2004)

Trimbach Cuvée Frédéric Emile Riesling 1997: A lovely golden hue, and a nose of lime sherbet with a creamy edge. Very open and forceful, but full of citrussy nuances. Attractive, light-footed, sherbetty-creamy, dry but rich, with very firm, defining acidity. A soft texture nicely interwoven, although there is a hardness on the sherbet-tinged finish and this wine clearly needs to integrate a little more. As I promised myself last time, I shall try to leave well alone. From a tasting of the 1997 Vintage at ten years of age. 17+/20 (December 2007)

Trimbach Cuvée Frédéric Emile Riesling 1997: Just a couple of years since I last opened one of these and there doesn't seem to have been a great deal of development here; the nose still has a lovely, vibrant, laser-like presence of lime fruit, but with the suggestion of a creamy depth, all presented in a very open but precise, well defined style. The same precision is on the palate, which has good freshness of fruit and plenty of youthful grip. Just crying out for more cellar time and I will do my best to oblige. A Christmas Wine. 17+/20 (December 2006)

Trimbach Cuvée Frédéric Emile Riesling 1997: Securing a fresh stock of this wine at a bargain price prompted me to open a bottle, although previous tastings have suggested that this is a wine for the long haul. A pale, lemon gold in the glass. A wonderful nose, very pure, with lime fruit and a hint of cream. The palate has brilliant acidity behind a similar purity of fruit, but with a creamy richness that just sings quality developing through the mid to endpalate. Beautiful drinking, but also will be super in the cellar - for another five to ten years plus. 17+/20 (August 2004)

Trimbach Cuvée Frédéric Emile Riesling 1997: A very pale wine, with just a hint of lemon gold. Classic youthful Riesling on the nose, with an abundance of lime and lemon fruit, and an edge of blossom. There's also a note of richness, like freshly buttered toast. The palate is fresh and sharply flavoured, with more limey fruit, but there is an appealing richness and weight to it, which builds through the midpalate. The acidity keeps it's presence, however, and takes on a fresh, almost tingling sherbet-like edge on the finish. There is great structure here, and the potential to develop very nicely with age I feel. 17+/20 (January 2002) Label

Trimbach Gewurztraminer Vendanges Tardives 1997: Pure, aromatic, spicy Gewurztraminer character on the nose, which also strongly suggests a good degree of residual sugar. No surprises on the palate then, which has plenty of aromatic fruit, low acidity and a superb texture. Wonderful stuff. 18/20 (February 2002)

Trimbach Cuvée Frédéric Emile Riesling 1996: A moderately coloured golden wine. At first the wine shows as expected - somewhat ungiving on the nose, with straightforward lime aromas with a honeyed streak developing before long. The palate has a good balance, and although very tight at first it opened out after an hour or so to reveal a honeyed richness along with the lemon, lime and even tropical fruits. With another hour or so the wine develops aromas of caramel and toffee, and the palate relaxes into a more nutty, caramel honey and lime profile. This wine seems very forward for its age, with a suggestion of oxidation. Possibly a faulty cork? 16?+/20 (July 2001) Label

Trimbach Riesling 1995: A yellow golden wine. The nose has stacks of limey fruit, with a waxy, lanolin edge. A rounded mouthfeel on the palate, with more waxy notes giving a richness to the wine. Good balance, with lots of juicy acidity, and a steely austerity that is typical of Trimbach. There is plenty of lemon and lime fruit, and a very slight nuttiness towards the endpalate, with coffee bean complexity on the finish. 16/20 (January 2001)

Trimbach Cuvée Frédéric Emile Riesling 1993: A pale colour: Intense nose, with lime, honey and steel. Fresh, full bodied, a touch alcoholic, but nicely structured, with a spice and steel edge to a grippy palate. Intense, quite youthful floral-edged flavours. This has much better grip and acidity than my last tasting which seemed unbalanced - perhaps that was just an awkward stage? From a 1993 vintage ten year on blind tasting. 17.5+/20 (December 2003)

Trimbach Cuvée Frédéric Emile Riesling 1993: A rich, golden hue, with a nose of honeyed apricots and pears. On the palate, the overall impression is one of a rich, creamy, weighty wine, fermented out to an attractive, high alcohol state with good fruit and a spicy flourish. The one item missing from the list is acidity, which the wine seemed to lack. A shame. I have a few more, so it will be interesting to see how they develop. 16?+/20 (January 2001)

Trimbach Gewurztraminer Reserve 1990: This is a moderately coloured, golden yellow wine. On the nose, a rich aroma of fat, ripe, honeydew melons is immediately apparent, and some typical Gewurztraminer spicy notes, with a faint touch of gingerbread. Moderate weight on entry to the palate, developing real spice through the midpalate, with good fruit and moderate acidity. Being critical, the endpalate seems somewhat hollow, and there is a dominant flourish of sharp, slightly bitter spice on finish. I think this suggests that this wine needs drinking up. 15.5/20 (August 2001) Label

Trimbach Pinot Gris Sélection de Grains Nobles 1986: From a half bottle. There's a not unexpected amount of tartrate sediments, just visible in the image above. In the glass the wine displays a great, rich and golden colour. The nose is just delightful, a melange of orange-flavoured biscuits, with elements of crunchy caramel, baked citrus fruits and deeply flavoured, spicy and aromatic ginger cake. There are certainly plenty of fabulous botrytis-related aromas here, reflecting the grains nobles element of this wine. On the palate it still displays a good sweetness despite its two decades, with a fleshy and rounded character, cut off by a bitter orange finish. The flavours rotate around a core of botrytis, with fresh crystalline fruit, sprinkled with minerals and quince. Supple, gently sweet, broad and yet elegant in its composition, this is a gorgeous wine for savouring now. Such pleasure is enhanced by a lovely, lingering finish, which goes on and on. Excellent. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 18.5/20 (May 2009)

Trimbach Pinot Gris Sélection de Grains Nobles 1986: From a half bottle. A glorious, deep golden colour. The nose exudes powerful richness, yet is bright and vibrant, with aromas of botrytis, quince, minerals and golden syrup. Very fresh on entry, even displaying some elegance through the midpalate. Rich, botrytised, honeyed, mineral fruit. This is mouthfilling and impressive, but so vibrant and balanced. Lovely finish with a super length. 18.5/20 (August 2004)