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Domaine Tempier
A
feeling of déjà vu crept over me as I pulled up the hire car in the shade of the
plane trees that line the driveway up to the house at Domaine Tempier. Surely I
had been here before? The place seemed so familiar, in particular the patio area
to the left of the house, where merchants, authors and other luminaries are treated to
long, lazy lunches by the Reynaud family, with delicious local fare washed down
by fine, older vintages of their wine. But I knew it could not be; although I am
by no means unfamiliar with their wines, this was my first visit to Domaine
Tempier per se. To this very moment I have no firm explanation for that
feeling, other that I must have seen images of the house and that patio in a
merchant's wine list or wine book at some time. Whatever the explanation, it
quickly passed; inside, the tasting room was wholly and reassuringly unfamiliar.
The Tempier family have owned vineyards in Bandol since 1834, although Domaine Tempier as we know it today was created only in 1940, upon the marriage of Lucie Tempier and Lucien Peyraud. Lucien Peyraud was instrumental not only in the birth of Domaine Tempier, but he was responsible, to a large extent, for the revival of Mourvèdre, at that time an almost forgotten variety, and for the creation of the Bandol appellation itself. All this enthusiasm followed his wedding, when Alphonse Tempier, Lucien's new father-in-law, presented him with an ancient bottle of their wine. It was a revelation; Lucien had found his purpose in life. He set about producing wines from the estate, which then had just 12 hectares of Mourvèdre, and persuaded the Institut National des Appellations d’Origine (INAO) that this variety should be the linchpin about which the new appellation, created on November 11th 1941, would turn.
During
his time at Domaine Tempier, until his death in 1998, Lucien Peyraud oversaw
more than fifty vintages, and shaped the estate into what it is today. He and
Lucie purchased the La Tourtine vineyard in 1951, and then the Migoua vineyard
in 1952. Both were rich in Mourvèdre, and allowed the pair to gradually increase
the proportion of this variety in the wines, with less and less dependence on
others such as Grenache. These sites, although initially used to bolster
the single cuvée that was produced at that time, eventually became the sources
for Domaine Tempier's special cuvées. These began to appear in 1968, first being
the Cuvée Spéciale; this was a selection of up to 85% Mourvèdre from vineyards in
the village of Le Plan du Castellet, plus Grenache from the Migoua vineyard. In
1969, however, Domaine Tempier began to release single vineyard bottlings, from
the Migoua and
La Tourtine vineyards. The Migoua vineyard is a 6.5 hectare
site in Le Beausset-Vieux, planted mainly with Mourvèdre, with good
amounts of Cinsaut and Grenache as well. La Tourtine is a 7 hectare site
in Le Castellet, which is planted with vines in similar proportions to
Migoua. From this vineyard comes two cuvées, named La Tourtine and also
Cabassaou. The latter cuvée, the name of which translates as escarpment, is produced from a 1 hectare plot of
Mourvèdre vines on the lower, steeper part of the vineyard. The straight Bandol
cuvée, which is still a wine of quality despite creaming off the fruit from the best sites,
and which can also be excellent value, is generally referred to as the Cuvée
Classique. And no account of the wines of Domaine Tempier would be complete
without mentioning the rosé, which accounts for approximately one third of the
output; this is an attractive wine made from Mourvèdre, Grenache and Cinsaut by
the saignée method, with just a short period of skin-contact. This is, in my
freshly reaffirmed opinion, one of the world's most admirable rosés.
With
the passing of Lucien his sons, Jean-Marie and François, currently run the domaine. They have maintained the property's reputation, mixing traditional practices with
new. Some are unusual, such as the reluctance to prune or bottle in the
presence of a new moon, but in general the vineyards are managed along
straightforward organic means without fertiliser or other chemicals, with
minimal use of sulphur. In the winery the grapes are fully destemmed before
temperature-controlled fermentation, macerated for ten days or so, and the wine then
spends up to eighteen months in large foudres where they also undergo
malolactic. The end results are wines of interest which are, at all levels, worthy
of bottle age. In the opinion of Remington Norman, author of Rhône
Renaissance, "up to ten years for the lesser vintages, double or more
for the great ones." My only hope is that with new blood at Domaine Tempier
- in the form of winemaker Daniel Ravier, taken on in the absence of any
descendants willing to take on the mantle - this quality is maintained. The signs
so far seem to be good. (6/10/05, updated 14/3/08)
Contact details:
Address: 83330 Castellet
Telephone: +33 (0) 4 94 98 70 21
Fax: +33 (0) 4 94 90 21 65
Internet:
www.domainetempier.com
Domaine Tempier - Tasting Notes
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Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé 2004: A salmon pink hue, with delicate
orange blossom and nectarine aromas. Full, rich, mouth-filling palate, buoyed up
by great acidity and plenty of fresh fruit character. It has grip too. Let's
face it; this is gorgeous...although I think the Pibarnon
2004 just has the edge on it. A second bottle was just as delightful. For
current drinking. 16.5/20 (August 2005)
Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Classique 2003: From Europe's heatwave
year. This is typical of the vintage, with a deep colour and a warm, ripe,
inviting nose. Ripe fruit on the palate, but still with unmistakeable Bandol
character. Warm and rich in style, but there is acidity there and the end result
is commendable. A different style to the 2002, but still showing obvious
quality. Drink in 2-4 years. 16.5+/20 (August 2005)
Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Classique 2002: This youthful cuvée has a dark
hue. Classic style on the nose, which shows fresh, dark fruits blended with the
animalistic notes of Mourvèdre. Fine palate, balanced and showing good structure
and a pleasing presence on the palate. This is a classic entry-level cuvée from
Tempier. Should drink very well in 3-4 years, and plateau for a similar time
thereafter. 16.5+/20 (August 2005)
Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé 2001: An absolutely delightful colour, a
peach-pink reminiscent of a summer sunset (sounds poetic I know, but
this is the most apt descriptor I can think of) . Red summer berry aromas with
hints of cream, vanilla-pod and spice on the nose. The palate is full
bodied, and carries its 13.8% alcohol well. Flavoursome, full of spice, and
a mouthfilling texture. Even a touch of elegance through the midpalate. 17/20 (August 2002)
Tempier Bandol Cuvée Classique 1999: Still showing a fabulously deep
colour - the ability of Mourvèdre to resist oxidation and the pallor that comes
with age never ceases to amaze me. The nose is feral and meaty, with a little
high-toned volatility which blows off quite quickly leaving notes of roasted
meats with a sweet, caramelised crust. Lovely substance on the palate, still
showing quite firm tannins through the midpalate and finish, but with a better
integration than I have noted before, so this wine seems to be coming together
despite my concerns about the tannins previously expressed. There is still a
little disjointed quality to it though, and a rather disparate waft of spirit.
Still no hurry here, although I don't think I have any of these half bottles
left. 16.5/20
(January 2008)
Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Classique 1999: From a half bottle.
Still holding its own on the colour front, although there is a little
pink-orange tinge coming in from the edge. Very developed nose, one year on from
my last tasting; profoundly savage and funky, with fur and cinnamon-dusted meat,
and macerated cherry fruit. Still shows an appealing texture and concentration
on the palate, but underneath it is bone dry, although to be honest with
slightly awkward tannins at the end of the palate. Good acidity, very fresh,
with a very dry, spiced finish. Very good. Should continue to drink well,
although I'm not sure on this tasting if those tannins aren't a little
problematic, which I haven't really noted before; will the rest of the wine
outlast them? Either way, fine for a few years yet. 16.5+/20 (September 2006)
Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Classique 1999: From a half bottle. Dark
and rather difficult this bottle, nevertheless another fine example of Tempier.
Meaty and tarry on the nose, with notes of roasted dark cherries. Full, sweet
fruit on the palate, nice grippy style, with decent acidity. Quite a firm
finish. Richly textured, and some coffee notes at the end. Seems slightly
plumper than my last tasting, slightly more slutty. Still very drinkable though!
16+/20 (March 2006)
Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Classique 1999: From a half bottle. Showing a few
pieces of crusty sediment. Great, deep colour. Very expressive nose,
tarry and furry, with a gamey quality. Nice texture on entry, showing a
little weight and lovely, balanced, although slightly creamy presence on
the midpalate. Showing a nice amount of extract too. Somewhat firm on
the endpalate, dominated by some coarse, rustic tannins. Short finish. Lovely,
characterful wine which, despite the small format, should continue to improve
over the next 2-3 years. 16+/20 (August 2005)
Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Classique 1999: A pleasant
deep red colour with just a tinge of purple. The wine is tightly wound
and compact, giving nothing on the nose at first, save for a few animal
fur notes of Mourvèdre. After hours and hours, however, the wine opens
up to reveal a hard nose, with some grilled meats and a metallic edge.
There's a suggestion of some black cherry, but it's barely a hint at
first, although it builds into something more significant. The palate
has a background of hard tannins, but there is sweetly textured
roundness, and some black cherry fruit with rose petal nuances, although
this plays second fiddle, especially towards the endpalate. 16.5+/20 (August
2002)
Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Spéciale 1999: Good deep colour;
Mourvèdre resists oxidation, of course. Great nose; very typical, with fried
meat, black cherry fruit and animalistic Mourvèdre notes. Full, ripe mouthfeel
with plenty of body and grip too, showing through the midpalate. Plenty of spicy
concentration, with a great meaty presence. But with good acidity too, providing
a touch of freshness. This is wine with years ahead of it; should improve over
the next 5-8 years at least. Overall, showing just a little better than when
tasted in March. 17+/20 (August 2005)
Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Spéciale 1999: Vibrant colour; Mourvèdre
has a great resistance to oxidation. Classic varietal nose; meaty, animalistic,
slightly sweaty saddle-leather. Full, mouth-filling, palate-pleasing wine.
Initially teases with a little softness, before revealing the firm structure and
grip beneath, with solid acidity to match. Lovely meaty, blueberry infused
palate, with some good extract providing some of the substance of this wine.
Very pleasing. Drink over the next eight years. 16.5+/20 (March 2005)
Label
Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Spéciale 1999: A good, deep colour. Animalistic
notes together with dense, chewy roasted blueberry and blackberry fruits, edged
with hard, charcoal notes, reflecting the tannins to be found on the palate, on
what is a classic Mourvèdre nose. Good fruit on the palate, although it is quite
austere and at this stage is firmly tannic. Tannins dominate the finish.
Balanced acidity. Displays some full, sweet, roundness with aeration, but this
wine needs a long time to soften. Demands another five years in the cellar. From a
half bottle. 16+/20 (March 2003)
Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Spéciale 1998:
A deep red wine, like the last one cut through with a youthful tinge of
purple. This bottle is more expressive on the nose, which is initially dominated
by intense fruit. This phase quickly passes, leaving rich aromas of tar and
treacle toffee, with a perfumed, rose petal edge. Full bodied and gorgeously
textured on the palate, which has a full, rounded mouthfeel, although this
cannot mask the firm, structured, dominant, mouth-drying tannins. It remains
very primary in character, with hard, tarry, coke and charcoal fruit. The
acidity is spot-on. A real savoury, lip-smacking finish. 17.5+/20 (August 2002)
Domaine Tempier Bandol La Migoua 1998:
This turned out to be even better than I had hoped. A good colour in the glass,
and a fresh aroma of mature fruit with a furry, savage, animalistic character.
But it really picks up on the palate, where it displays plenty of mature Bandol
character, but with a surprisingly light-footed, elegant and balanced
composition rather than the savage richness I was perhaps expecting. Really
delicious, easy to drink, and wonderful with this menu. If you have any of
these, open one soon! Drunk with dinner at the
Vintner's Rooms. 18/20 (March
2008)
Domaine Tempier Bandol La Tourtine 1998:
A garnet-red hue. initially quite dumb on the nose, but soon opening out to
offer up aromas of singed hair and black cherries. An initially light, almost
ethereal mouthfeel soon gives way to something more weighty. There's plenty of
fruit, firm acidity and ripe tannins, balanced and set for further development.
This one needs a good five to seven years before it will be ready. Nevertheless,
it shows its breeding now. 18+/20 (August 2002)
Domaine Tempier Bandol La Tourtine 1994:
Age evident here. Very, err, distinctive nose. Sewage. Reminds me of crab
hunting as a kid - you always threw back the green ones. Smouldering embers too.
Some meaty notes. Some Mourvèdre character here, for sure. Creamy palate;
lovely, despite the nose, with just warm ember notes. Alcohol showing a little,
but integrated tannins. Incredible development since last tasted in 2002, so
some bottle variation perhaps? Ready now. From a
1994 vintage ten year on
tasting. 16/20 (December 2004)
Domaine Tempier Bandol La Tourtine 1994:
A moderately deep garnet-red, fading to a pink rim. Initially quite gamey
and sweaty on the nose, perhaps a touch of bottle-stink. This passes, leaving
chewy, macerated fruit. Medium bodied, with more than a touch of spice
immediately apparent on entry. A delightful texture, with a savoury roast game
flavour. The spice builds through the palate. Tannins are well on the way to
integration, and there is correct acidity. Although very enjoyable, and
beginning to drink very nicely, this still
needs a year or two in bottle to hit its peak. 18/20 (August 2002)
Domaine Tempier Bandol Migoua 1993: Another deeply coloured
wine. A challenging nose for some here, but I find it fascinating. Very
organic aromas, of compost and well-hung meat, as well as a metallic,
iron-filings note. In a word, stinky. The palate continues in the same
vein - obvious mature complexity, with more organic character. Still
grippy, although the tannins have just about all gone, still fresh and
very much alive. This is classy stuff. From a
1993 Vintage ten year on
tasting. 17/20 (December 2003)
Domaine Tempier Bandol Cabassaou 1992: A mature colour. Difficult to assess on
the nose - seems closed, but there are some unusual aromas coming up - rotting
vegetables? Seaweed? On the palate it is hard and backward. It lacks a little
weight I think, although it may yet fatten out as it continues to develop. Good
acidity. Short finish. I can only hope this will develop in bottle. From a
1992 Vintage ten year on
blind tasting. 15+?/20 (December 2002)
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