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Domaine Tempier

A feeling of déjà vu crept over me as I pulled up the hire car in the shade of the plane trees that line the driveway up to the house at Domaine Tempier. It was late in the summer of 2005, and it was a few years since I had last visited Provence, but surely I had been here before? The place seemed so familiar, in particular the patio area to the left of the house, where merchants, authors and other luminaries are treated to long, lazy lunches by the owners, the Peyraud family, with delicious local fare washed down by fine, older vintages of their wine. But I knew it could not be; although I was by no means unfamiliar with their wines, this was my first visit to Domaine Tempier per se. Nevertheless, the sensation quickly passed; inside, the tasting room was wholly and reassuringly unfamiliar.

Three years passed before I would visit the property again, this time following a high speed journey along the A8, the autoroute that runs east-west alongside the Mediterranean coastline. Unusually for me once I arrived in Bandol I managed to navigate my way directly to Le Plan de Castellet, and then to the Tempier domaine, without a single wrong turn. This had nothing to do with my sat-nav which had been rendered useless by my failure to remember my destination address, and which had proved to be a rather moody and reticent companion anyway, but I think was more down to a rare piece of good luck. On this visit a touch of déjà vu would of course been less surprising, but I had no such sensation. To this very moment I have no firm explanation for the feeling I experienced on my very fist visit, other that I must have seen images of the house and that patio in a merchant's wine list or wine book at some time.

The Peyraud family have resided in Le Plan de Castellet since at least the end of the 18th Century, and their house, the sight of which gave me that inexplicable sensation, was built in 1834. The family owned vineyards at this time, as is evidenced by the construction of cellars by Léonie Tempier in 1880, and an award of a gold medal to the family for their work in re-establishing the vineyard after the devastation of Phylloxera in 1885. Nevertheless, it was not until 1940 that Domaine Tempier was created with the marriage of Lucie Tempier and Lucien Peyraud. Lucien Peyraud was instrumental not only in the birth of Domaine Tempier but was also responsible, to a large extent, for the revival of Mourvèdre, at that time an almost forgotten variety, and for the creation of the Bandol appellation itself. All this enthusiasm followed his wedding, when Alphonse Tempier, Lucien's new father-in-law, presented him with an ancient bottle of their wine. It was a revelation; Lucien had found his purpose in life. He set about producing wines from the estate, which then had just 12 hectares of Mourvèdre, and persuaded the Institut National des Appellations d’Origine (INAO) that this variety should be the linchpin about which the new appellation, created on November 11th 1941, would turn.

During his time at Domaine Tempier, until his death in 1998, Lucien Peyraud oversaw more than fifty vintages, and shaped the estate into what it is today. He and Lucie purchased La Tourtine, the distant hillside vineyard visible in the image to the left, in 1951, and then the Migoua vineyard in 1952. Both were rich in Mourvèdre, and allowed the pair to gradually increase the proportion of this variety in the wines, with less and less dependence on others, including Grenache. These sites, although initially used to bolster the single cuvée that was produced at that time, eventually became the sources for Domaine Tempier's special cuvées. These began to appear in 1968, first being the Cuvée Spéciale; this was a selection of up to 85% Mourvèdre from vineyards in the village of Le Plan du Castellet, plus Grenache from the Migoua vineyard. In 1969 Domaine Tempier began to release single vineyard bottlings from the Migoua and La Tourtine vineyards.

The Migoua vineyard is a 6.5 hectare site in Le Beausset-Vieux characterised by the presence of Muschelkalk, an ancient sedimentary limestone laid down by a land-locked sea about 200 million years ago. Although most commonly found in Germany, hence the Teutonic name, this rock type may also be found scattered across France and Spain. The vineyard, which is the only one of the Tempier sites not visible from the Peyraud home, is planted mainly with Mourvèdre, with good amounts of Cinsault and Grenache as well. Its counterpart, which is most certainly visible from the house, is La Tourtine, a 7 hectare site in Le Castellet with rocks that date from the Santonian period, 83 to 85 million years ago. This vineyard, which is planted with vines in similar proportions to Migoua, gives rise to two cuvées, named La Tourtine and also Cabassaou. The latter cuvée, the name of which translates as escarpment, is produced from a 1 hectare plot of Mourvèdre vines on the lower, steeper part of the vineyard (hidden behind the trees and buildings in the picture above). The straight Bandol cuvée, which is still a wine of quality despite creaming off the fruit from the best sites, and which has offered excellent value (although the price today is quite close to that of the single vineyard wines), is generally referred to as the Cuvée Classique, and is largely sourced from the Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Grenache, Carignan and Syrah vines planted directly around the house (in the foreground, above). And of course no account of the wines of Domaine Tempier would be complete without mentioning the rosé, which accounts for approximately one third of the output; this is an attractive wine made from Mourvèdre, Grenache and Cinsaut by the saignée method, with just a short period of skin-contact. This is, in my frequently reaffirmed opinion, one of the world's most admirable rosés. And there is also a little-known white wine, produced from Clairette, Ugni Blanc, Bourboulenc and Marsanne.

With the passing of Lucien his sons, Jean-Marie and François, came to run the domaine. They have maintained the property's reputation, mixing traditional practices with new, but in the absence of a willing heir Jean-Marie and François, together with their sisters, decided to put the property in the ownership of a family-run company. This was done in 2000, and Daniel Ravier was appointed as manager of the 35 hectare estate. Today it is Ravier that you are most likely to encounter, whether he is travelling abroad to market the wines, or working at the domaine. He continues to manage the vineyards, which range in age from 20 to 50 years, along straightforward organic lines, without fertiliser or other chemicals. The soil is ploughed to discourage weeds, and there is a green harvest to control yields which are typically 30-35 hl/ha. The harvest is 100% manual and the fruit is fully destemmed before temperature-controlled fermentation. The rosé is fermented in steel after a cold soak, then matured in vat for 6-8 months before bottling. The reds are fermented in steel or today possibly also in concrete, these latter vats having been installed in 2007. The wines will macerate in vat and undergo malolactic and blending in tank, before spending 18-20 months in large foudres of varying size and also material, with some oak sourced from as far away as Austria. The end results, bottled without filtration or fining, are wines of interest which are, at all levels, worthy of bottle age. In the opinion of Remington Norman, author of Rhône Renaissance, "up to ten years for the lesser vintages, double or more for the great ones." My limited tastings of some vintages at ten years of age suggest this rule is correct. This domaine remains in my opinion the benchmark for the appellation, and although prices are somewhat higher than they used to be the wines themselves remain, intrinsically, very good value. (21/8/02, last updated 20/11/08)

Contact details:
Address: 83330 Le Plan du Castellet
Telephone: +33 (0) 4 94 98 70 21
Fax: +33 (0) 4 94 90 21 65
Internet: www.domainetempier.com

Domaine Tempier - Tasting Notes

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Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé 2007: This is 50% Mourvèdre, the rest Cinsault, Grenache and Carignan. It also occasionally includes some Syrah, although not in the 2007 vintage. It has an appealing pale onionskin colour. The nose is vibrant, full of peach and other stone fruits, with light touches of redcurrant and fresh, green leaves. The palate is similarly lively, very harmonious, with a crisp and tingling acidity and a lovely vinosity to it. Quite firm, integrated and certainly deliciously dry. Very, very good indeed. 17+/20 (October 2008)

Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé 2006: Lovely, rich, sunset-pink-orange hue. The nose has fine, strawberry, redcurrant and peach fruit with a fresh, mineral and chalky character. Slightly fat, slightly oily and vinous texture, although with a good structure underneath and lovely acidity too. The wine has substance and a fine presence on the palate. It is fresh, bright and well defined, with a clean, slightly peppery finish. Very good indeed. 17/20 (October 2008)

Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Classique 2006: An organic character here, savage, and yet with a very faint edge of toffee and cream. A touch more prominent perhaps are the notes of minerals and dust, but there is no denying the little hint of sweet creaminess this wine gives. The palate is a middleweight, slightly softer than the 2005, with a fine tingling acid backbone. It has a little more elegance, but perhaps a little less substance to it. Fine delicate tannins though. Very good potential. 16.5+/20 (October 2008)

Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Classique 2005: This is 75% Mourvèdre, the rest Cinsault, Grenache and Carignan. The nose is great, very fresh, with lots of typicité. A savage animal character is evident, but it is also lifted and bright. The palate has a lovely flesh, round and ripe, but with finely delineated acidity underneath. The tannins are gentle but ripe, overall it is a touch fatter than the 2006, but it is still very well composed. I think for me it just has the edge today. 17+/20 (October 2008)

Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé 2004: A salmon pink hue, with delicate orange blossom and nectarine aromas. Full, rich, mouth-filling palate, buoyed up by great acidity and plenty of fresh fruit character. It has grip too. Let's face it; this is gorgeous...although I think the Pibarnon 2004 just has the edge on it. A second bottle was just as delightful. For current drinking. 16.5/20 (August 2005)

Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Classique 2003: From Europe's heatwave year. This is typical of the vintage, with a deep colour and a warm, ripe, inviting nose. Ripe fruit on the palate, but still with unmistakeable Bandol character. Warm and rich in style, but there is acidity there and the end result is commendable. A different style to the 2002, but still showing obvious quality. Drink in 2-4 years. 16.5+/20 (August 2005)

Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Classique 2002: This youthful cuvée has a dark hue. Classic style on the nose, which shows fresh, dark fruits blended with the animalistic notes of Mourvèdre. Fine palate, balanced and showing good structure and a pleasing presence on the palate. This is a classic entry-level cuvée from Tempier. Should drink very well in 3-4 years, and plateau for a similar time thereafter. 16.5+/20 (August 2005)

Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé 2001: An absolutely delightful colour, a peach-pink reminiscent of a summer sunset (sounds poetic I know, but this is the most apt descriptor I can think of) . Red summer berry aromas with hints of cream, vanilla-pod and spice on the nose. The palate is full bodied, and carries its 13.8% alcohol well. Flavoursome, full of spice, and a mouthfilling texture. Even a touch of elegance through the midpalate. 17/20 (August 2002)

Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Classique 1999: Still showing a fabulously deep colour - the ability of Mourvèdre to resist oxidation and the pallor that comes with age never ceases to amaze me. The nose is feral and meaty, with a little high-toned volatility which blows off quite quickly leaving notes of roasted meats with a sweet, caramelised crust. Lovely substance on the palate, still showing quite firm tannins through the midpalate and finish, but with a better integration than I have noted before, so this wine seems to be coming together despite my concerns about the tannins previously expressed. There is still a little disjointed quality to it though, and a rather disparate waft of spirit. Still no hurry here, although I don't think I have any of these half bottles left. 16.5/20 (January 2008)

Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Classique 1999: From a half bottle. Still holding its own on the colour front, although there is a little pink-orange tinge coming in from the edge. Very developed nose, one year on from my last tasting; profoundly savage and funky, with fur and cinnamon-dusted meat, and macerated cherry fruit. Still shows an appealing texture and concentration on the palate, but underneath it is bone dry, although to be honest with slightly awkward tannins at the end of the palate. Good acidity, very fresh, with a very dry, spiced finish. Very good. Should continue to drink well, although I'm not sure on this tasting if those tannins aren't a little problematic, which I haven't really noted before; will the rest of the wine outlast them? Either way, fine for a few years yet. 16.5+/20 (September 2006)

Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Classique 1999: From a half bottle. Dark and rather difficult this bottle, nevertheless another fine example of Tempier. Meaty and tarry on the nose, with notes of roasted dark cherries. Full, sweet fruit on the palate, nice grippy style, with decent acidity. Quite a firm finish. Richly textured, and some coffee notes at the end. Seems slightly plumper than my last tasting, slightly more slutty. Still very drinkable though! 16+/20 (March 2006)

Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Classique 1999: From a half bottle. Showing a few pieces of crusty sediment. Great, deep colour. Very expressive nose, tarry and furry, with a gamey quality. Nice texture on entry, showing a little weight and lovely, balanced, although slightly creamy presence on the midpalate. Showing a nice amount of extract too. Somewhat firm on the endpalate, dominated by some coarse, rustic tannins. Short finish. Lovely, characterful wine which, despite the small format, should continue to improve over the next 2-3 years. 16+/20 (August 2005)

Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Classique 1999: A pleasant deep red colour with just a tinge of purple. The wine is tightly wound and compact, giving nothing on the nose at first, save for a few animal fur notes of Mourvèdre. After hours and hours, however, the wine opens up to reveal a hard nose, with some grilled meats and a metallic edge. There's a suggestion of some black cherry, but it's barely a hint at first, although it builds into something more significant. The palate has a background of hard tannins, but there is sweetly textured roundness, and some black cherry fruit with rose petal nuances, although this plays second fiddle, especially towards the endpalate. 16.5+/20 (August 2002)

Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Speciale 1999: It is four years since I last tasted this, and those were half bottles; this is from 75cl. An admirably rich colour here, plenty of pigment, but that's Mourvèdre for you. Some tints of maturity too of course, just a lovely light bricking to it, with a tinge of rust at the rim. The nose starts off with deep, macerated fruits, with a meaty edge, before it then reveals a more savage animal and farmyard funk, with nuances of cloves. Very nicely textured on the palate, certainly well filled out and quite creamy, albeit in a rather burly style, with a seam of ripe, meaty, extracted tannins hiding beneath all the fruit. The palate lifts somewhat at the finish, showing a slightly brighter style, with hints of orange peel, black olive and a smoky minerality. Good length. On the whole though a rather clumsy impression, but I think this just needs time to come together; ten years is nothing for any of Tempier's cuvées above the generic Bandol. Fine potential here. From my 1999 vintage Ten Years On tasting. 17+/20 (December 2009)

Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Spéciale 1999: Good deep colour; Mourvèdre resists oxidation, of course. Great nose; very typical, with fried meat, black cherry fruit and animalistic Mourvèdre notes. Full, ripe mouthfeel with plenty of body and grip too, showing through the midpalate. Plenty of spicy concentration, with a great meaty presence. But with good acidity too, providing a touch of freshness. This is wine with years ahead of it; should improve over the next 5-8 years at least. Overall, showing just a little better than when tasted in March. 17+/20 (August 2005)

Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Spéciale 1999: Vibrant colour; Mourvèdre has a great resistance to oxidation. Classic varietal nose; meaty, animalistic, slightly sweaty saddle-leather. Full, mouth-filling, palate-pleasing wine. Initially teases with a little softness, before revealing the firm structure and grip beneath, with solid acidity to match. Lovely meaty, blueberry infused palate, with some good extract providing some of the substance of this wine. Very pleasing. Drink over the next eight years. 16.5+/20 (March 2005) Label

Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Spéciale 1999: A good, deep colour. Animalistic notes together with dense, chewy roasted blueberry and blackberry fruits, edged with hard, charcoal notes, reflecting the tannins to be found on the palate, on what is a classic Mourvèdre nose. Good fruit on the palate, although it is quite austere and at this stage is firmly tannic. Tannins dominate the finish. Balanced acidity. Displays some full, sweet, roundness with aeration, but this wine needs a long time to soften. Demands another five years in the cellar. From a half bottle. 16+/20 (March 2003)

Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Spéciale 1998: A deep red wine, like the last one cut through with a youthful tinge of purple. This bottle is more expressive on the nose, which is initially dominated by intense fruit. This phase quickly passes, leaving rich aromas of tar and treacle toffee, with a perfumed, rose petal edge. Full bodied and gorgeously textured on the palate, which has a full, rounded mouthfeel, although this cannot mask the firm, structured, dominant, mouth-drying tannins. It remains very primary in character, with hard, tarry, coke and charcoal fruit. The acidity is spot-on. A real savoury, lip-smacking finish. 17.5+/20 (August 2002)

Domaine Tempier Bandol La Migoua 1998: This turned out to be even better than I had hoped. A good colour in the glass, and a fresh aroma of mature fruit with a furry, savage, animalistic character. But it really picks up on the palate, where it displays plenty of mature Bandol character, but with a surprisingly light-footed, elegant and balanced composition rather than the savage richness I was perhaps expecting. Really delicious, easy to drink, and wonderful with this menu. If you have any of these, open one soon! Drunk with dinner at the Vintner's Rooms. 18/20 (March 2008)

Domaine Tempier Bandol La Tourtine 1998: This is a quite remarkable wine. It has a fine, dark hue in the glass, although there is maturity here too, a deep oxblood tone which is very evident just at the rim. The nose, however, is just beautiful, showing a fresh, clean and well-defined character which fails to betray this wine's ten years of age. It has a fine, perfumed, violet bouquet, with a charcoaly, stony, mineral edge, but also deep, rich and ripe mature fruit. It seems savoury, elegant, pure and crystalline all in the same breath. I find it quite captivating, certainly enticing at the very least, The palate has a fine and fresh character which reflects that found on the nose, with a pure seam of ripe, coaly tannin, with perfumed fruit. Fresh, firm, sinewy in its substance, pure and also elegant, this has a really fabulous style and I suspect it will go for years in the cellar yet, improving with time. But it is superbly approachable, and certainly delicious, right now. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. From my 1998 vintage Ten Years On tasting. 18.5+/20 (November 2008)

Domaine Tempier Bandol La Tourtine 1998: A garnet-red hue. initially quite dumb on the nose, but soon opening out to offer up aromas of singed hair and black cherries. An initially light, almost ethereal mouthfeel soon gives way to something more weighty. There's plenty of fruit, firm acidity and ripe tannins, balanced and set for further development. This one needs a good five to seven years before it will be ready. Nevertheless, it shows its breeding now. 18+/20 (August 2002)

Domaine Tempier Bandol La Tourtine 1994: Age evident here. Very, err, distinctive nose. Sewage. Reminds me of crab hunting as a kid - you always threw back the green ones. Smouldering embers too. Some meaty notes. Some Mourvèdre character here, for sure. Creamy palate; lovely, despite the nose, with just warm ember notes. Alcohol showing a little, but integrated tannins. Incredible development since last tasted in 2002, so some bottle variation perhaps? Ready now. From a 1994 vintage ten year on tasting. 16/20 (December 2004)

Domaine Tempier Bandol La Tourtine 1994: A moderately deep garnet-red, fading to a pink rim. Initially quite gamey and sweaty on the nose, perhaps a touch of bottle-stink. This passes, leaving chewy, macerated fruit. Medium bodied, with more than a touch of spice immediately apparent on entry. A delightful texture, with a savoury roast game flavour. The spice builds through the palate. Tannins are well on the way to integration, and there is correct acidity. Although very enjoyable, and beginning to drink very nicely, this still needs a year or two in bottle to hit its peak. 18/20 (August 2002)

Domaine Tempier Bandol Migoua 1993: Another deeply coloured wine. A challenging nose for some here, but I find it fascinating. Very organic aromas, of compost and well-hung meat, as well as a metallic, iron-filings note. In a word, stinky. The palate continues in the same vein - obvious mature complexity, with more organic character. Still grippy, although the tannins have just about all gone, still fresh and very much alive. This is classy stuff. From a 1993 Vintage ten year on tasting. 17/20 (December 2003)

Domaine Tempier Bandol Cabassaou 1992: A mature colour. Difficult to assess on the nose - seems closed, but there are some unusual aromas coming up - rotting vegetables? Seaweed? On the palate it is hard and backward. It lacks a little weight I think, although it may yet fatten out as it continues to develop. Good acidity. Short finish. I can only hope this will develop in bottle. From a 1992 Vintage ten year on blind tasting. 15+?/20 (December 2002)