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Chateau Talbot

The Talbot in question is widely accepted as being John Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury, although there appears to be no direct evidence that he ever owned this property, or indeed owned any vines in Bordeaux at all. John Talbot was an octogenarian soldier, sent by King Henry VI to sort out the rebellious French, who had clearly had enough of 300 years of English rule in Aquitaine, this having been the situation since Henry II married Eleanor of Aquitaine in 1152. At Castillon the aged yet honourable warrior went into battle unarmed, having sworn never to bear arms against the French when they had released him from a previous period of captivity. Knowing this, we can perhaps question the judgement of Henry VI in choosing Talbot to quash the riotous French. The result was that Talbot was defeated, and in fact he met his end at the battle. The English army eventually fled, having first allegedly made a last stand at the fortress where Issan stands today. Bordeaux was French once more.

The name Talbot appears on maps in the 18th century, and despite what we know of his life, it is generally assumed that this refers to John Talbot. During the 18th and 19th Centuries the estate here was owned by the marquis d'Aux de Lescout, and was thus known as Talbot d'Aux. Under their tenure the wines fetched sufficiently high prices for classification of the estate as a quatrième cru in the 1855 classification. It remained with this family until 1899, when it was purchased by a gentleman named Claverie, before twenty years later he sold it on to Désiré Cordier in 1917. The Cordier family also acquired ownership of Lafaurie-Peyraguey and part of Gruaud-Larose, and although the latter has since been sold they retain control of Talbot today. The estate passed from Désiré to son Georges, then to grandson Jean, before coming to the next generation who are the current incumbents, these being Jean's daughters Lorraine Rustmann and Nancy Bignon-Cordier. They have ran Talbot since Jean's death in 1993.

The vineyards of Talbot dominate St Julien, in terms of size at least, as they account for an impressive 107 hectares. All the other chateaux, from the great second growths down to the cru bourgeois properties, dance around the periphery of the Talbot estate, which stretches over a huge swathe of the commune. The soils underfoot are, as is typical, ancient quaternary gravels offering excellent drainage. Of the vineyard area, 102 ha are planted to red varieties, mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (66%), followed by Merlot (26%), Cabernet Franc (5%) and Petit Verdot (3%); there are also 5 hectares of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. The vines are planted at a density of 7700 vines/ha, mostly on 3309 rootstock although there are also some on 101.14 and Riparia. They are Guyot trained, the norm in Bordeaux, average 35 years of age, and are harvested by hand with a final yield in the order of 45 hl/ha. In the chai the fruit goes over a sorting table before undertaking a unique journey, through a tunnel ventilated with warm air, the effect being to dry the fruit of any moisture. To my knowledge this is the only Bordeaux estate to utilise such equipment, which was originally designed to dry delicate fruits, such as peaches, after harvest. It is then fermented according to plot of origin, using wooden vats or stainless steel, with temperature control. Those wines selected for the grand vin then go into oak, up to 60% new each year, before bottling as Chateau Talbot (30000 cases per annum). The wines destined for the second wine, Connétable de Talbot, introduced in the 1970s, will typically see oak of which 20% is replaced each year. The white wine, Caillou Blanc du Chateau Talbot, is an AC Bordeaux, 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon, which sees a mix of new and used oak.

What personal comments should I make on Chateau Talbot? There are certainly many who view the wines of this estate very favourably. I remember the tasting when I was first introduced to Talbot, when a good of mine, with a fine palate, declared that Talbot was one of his favourite estates. He enjoyed the earthy goût de terroir it offered, a character which many would in fact attribute to Brettanomyces infection, which is widely accepted as being a frequent occurrence in the wines of Chateau Talbot. Personally, I too enjoyed the wines, and have enjoyed many other vintages since. Some vintages do show a prominent thread of Brettanomyces, but I have rarely found it over the top, rarely does it ruin the wine (although a recent bottle of the 2001 was an exception to this generalisation). Some, no doubt, would argue that any Brettanomyces is too much, but I do not pitch my tent in that camp, trace levels adding a complexity, whilst not taking the wine out of the Bordeaux spectrum. These are good wines, and I shall enjoy drinking other bottles of the 2000 and the 1996 over the coming years. Those who have acquired the 2005 will be able to drink these with pleasure in the future, although to place Talbot in the context of the commune in this great vintage, it does show itself to be one of the lesser vineyards; there are many more fabulous wines available in this vintage. (21/5/00, last updated 16/1/08)

Contact details:
Address: Chateau Talbot, 33250 St-Julien-Beychevelle
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 73 21 50
Fax +33 (0) 5 56 73 21 51
Internet: www.chateau-talbot.com

Chateau Talbot - Tasting Notes

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Chateau Talbot (St Julien) 2009: This wine has a dark core and a cherry pink rim. On the nose it is dark and slightly gamey, although with some good bright edges. The palate has some appeal, although it carries gamey fruit here also, with some roasted cherry stones. A good upright tannic backbone, rather moderate acidity. Great character but it feels a little soft for me, although it does show a bright acidity in the finish. I suspect this will be a must-buy for Talbot-lovers. From my 2009 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 15.5-16.5+/20 (March 2010)

Chateau Talbot (St Julien) 2008: Sweet cherry fruit on the nose, clean but dark and spicy in character. Supple, with fine-grained tannins, with a fine substance and fresh acidity. Vigorous, with fresh acidity, perhaps not quite the same vibrancy as some wines tasted here, but still a very, very good effort from this chateau. Impressive. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 17-18+/20 (April 2009)

Chateau Talbot (St Julien) 2007: A dense style on the nose, gently aromatic fruit, rather introverted though, hiding under a layer of hard polished oak. Dry, with a nicely gentle substance. Linear, ripe, even a little chewy, this has somewhat prominent structure and a little less fruit and substance than I would like. It seems a little more forced than my primeur experience. From a tasting of 2007 Bordeaux at two years of age. 14+/20 (October 2009)

Chateau Talbot (St Julien) 2007: A nice, forward, open nose showing some crunchy fruit and with an edge of green. Supple and elegant on the palate, an appealing style, tannins well covered, with clean lines although also showing some greenness to the fruit. This has some attractive components, but the fruit ripeness may deter many. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 15-16+/20 (April 2008)

Chateau Talbot (St Julien) 2006: Creamy fruit here, presented in a fresh, open, clean and very attractive fashion. A moderate weight, rather lean although well balanced on the palate. It has a fresh style, savoury and even a little juicy in character, with an appealing character. A good effort in this vintage and it has certainly moved upwards since my first taste. From a tasting of 2006 Bordeaux at two years of age. 16+/20 (October 2008)

Chateau Talbot (St Julien) 2006: Nice sweet fruit on the nose. But the palate doesn't live up to expectations. Rather hollow, moderate fruit at best, ripe tannins, good acidity. It has an appealing composition, but lacks substance. Talbot often fails to impress at this stage I think. It may flesh out but not inspiring right now. From my 2006 Bordeaux assessment. 13.5-14.5/20 (April 2007)

Chateau Talbot (St Julien) 2005: Nice, maturing character on the nose here, autumn leaves, undergrowth, tea leaf, along with a layer of red fruits still with an overt freshness to them. On the palate a very soft texture at first, then a more polished and stony but still generous substance in the palate. Firm, elegant, well composed wine, not fat or overly fleshy, but with enough substance to cover the tannins. Some harmony here. Very good. From a 2005 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 17+/20 (November 2009)

Chateau Talbot (St Julien) 2005: This has a delightful character on the nose, showing ripe and open cherry and cranberry fruit, and still a presence of oak which is of course to be expected. Rather cool and stylish at the start, fleshing out on the midpalate, but it remains restrained and balanced throughout. Creamy, rounded, but not a huge intensity unlike some wines of the commune in this vintage. But it has lovely sweet fruit, sitting over ripe tannins; it is a success for the estate, and buyers are likely to be pleased. 16.5+/20 (November 2007)

Chateau Talbot (St Julien) 2005: Quite an evocative style apparent on the nose, with aromatic and rather well concentrated redcurrant and cranberry fruit on the nose. It is perhaps lighter in impact than some of its peers, perhaps not so concentrated, and it has a slightly charcoaly character to the tannins, although they are very well covered by fruit. Rather soft and broad on the finish. A very good wine, although a little outshone within the context of the commune. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 16-17+/20 (October 2007)

Chateau Talbot (St Julien) 2004: Vibrant mineral fruit on the nose, quite attractive. Very good style on the palate, ripe and well knit tannins, nicely integrated with the rest of the wine, and with crisp, fresh acidity. Over it all there is a good blanket of fruit. This is classic St Julien; an admirable vintage for Talbot, and hopefully a good value. From my 2004 Bordeaux assessment. 17+/20 (October 2006)

Chateau Talbot (St Julien) 2003: This has some exotic but cleanly presented fruit on the nose, dark, confit berries as you might expect. The palate is very nicely composed though, nicely fat but with rather good acidity, all rolled together in an attractive, mouthfilling style. This has real appeal, and is excellent when taken in the context of the vintage. Firm tannin, quite a wall of it at the finish which as ever is my main concern. But this is as good a wine from Talbot as I have tasted in a long time, and it has built on the early promise seen at the UGC tasting in 2005. 17+/20 (November 2006)

Chateau Talbot (St Julien) 2003: Dark, macerated, blackberry fruit, with a buttery edge from the residual fruit. Sweet, with immediate impact on entry. Grippy, structured, but packed with loads of blackberry fruit. Nice texture and substance here. After a weak 2002 this vintage is a success for Talbot. From my 2003 Bordeaux assessment. 16+/20 (October 2005)

Chateau Talbot (St Julien) 2002: Not very expressive here, so I suspect this has entered a closed phase. A little bare fruit and raw oak can be gleaned. The palate is light and seems disjointed, perhaps a touch hot, and it is not showing any attractive flavour, but this may reflect the stage we are at in this wine's evolution. Fairly standard weight in the mouth for the vintage, that is rather light. Overall this isn't impressive. I can only hope that we find more character when it opens up again. 12.5-13.5+?/20 (November 2007)

Chateau Talbot (St Julien) 2002: Restrained dark fruit nose. Soft, seductive aromas. Lean palate though. Lacks structure, balance and concentration. Where is the midpalate? Dried out tannic mouthfeel. Little fruit. A dismal effort. A failure, but not representative of the vintage judging by other 2002s I have tasted. I have some bottles of this to reassess at some point in the future. 12/20 (November 2004)

Connétable de Talbot (St Julien) 2002: Aromatic red fruit nose. Lightweight on entry, hollow midpalate. Lacks concentration. Decent tannins beneath though. Distinctly unworthy. 11/20 (November 2004)

Chateau Talbot (St Julien) 2001: A rather earthy, farmyardy nose. Here is a bottle of Talbot showing rather obvious Brett. It has an attractive style though, a middleweight, with a soft cut of acidity and a nicely rounded feel. The tannins are quite supple and altogether the wine has an appealing composition. But it is (from this bottle at least) rather Bretty, certainly considerably more so than when I tasted it in November last year, it is just a little too far into the farmyardy spectrum of flavours for me, hence my markedly lower score. But Brettanomyces is notorious for affecting some bottles more than others; I suspect other bottles of this wine may be in better (or possibly worse?) condition. 14?/20 (November 2006)

Chateau Talbot (St Julien) 2001: A good, youthful depth of colour here, with an appealing nutty character on the nose. This has a nice, elegant style on the palate, showing a supple profile, with a gentle, integrating structure. There is still some primary fruit, but no lack of finesse. Should be very good indeed, but needs 3-4 years at least. 17+/20 (November 2005)

Chateau Talbot (St Julien) 2001: Mainly red fruits on the nose, with an edge of black cherries which adds some interest. On the palate this wine offers a simple flavour profile of red fruits, but it is still in a very youthful phase. It has medium weight and an elegant texture. There are soft, low level tannins evident through the midpalate, although these show more on the finish. This wine needs to develop and integrate, but should provide pleasant drinking after five years in the cellar. 16+/20 (November 2003)

Caillou Blanc du Chateau Talbot (Bordeaux Blanc) 2001: This has a very nice, expressive nose of fat white fruits. The palate seems lean and ungiving on entry, but fattens up on the midpalate. There are some good flavours here, of mineral and herby white fruit. Appropriate acidity with balance. Clean finish. 15.5/20 (November 2003)

Chateau Talbot (St Julien) 1999: A ringer hiding in a Gruaud-Larose vertical tasting, and it's quite apparent that this is a very different wine. An unusual nose, of smoke and roast ham - perhaps an oak derived aroma - which dissipates to leave tarry fruit and a more recognisable oaky note of sweet caramel. Full and rounded on the palate, but not giving lots of flavour or character. Not as concentrated as the other wines, although there is plenty of texture and structure. Good acidity. Quite closed at present. This seemed very unusual compared to the other vintages of Gruaud-Larose, but once the label was revealed all became clear. 15.5+/20 (July 2003)

Chateau Talbot (St Julien) 1996: Young, intense red wine. Obviously the 1996. Nose has barrel-loads of fruit, herbs and cigar-smoke. Palate has more fruit and a smoky character. Well balanced. Good, but young. 17.5+/20 (May 2000)

Chateau Talbot (St Julien) 1995: A good, obviously maturing hue here. Quite firm and austere on the nose. It has a mid-weight palate, showing some nice although rather lean fruit, with a restrained character matching that of the nose. Showing plenty of structure, and rather discordant at present, but this has plenty of potential. Will be attractive with appropriate cellar time I think. 16.5+/20 (November 2005)

Château Talbot (St Julien) 1989: A great nose here, full of dense, fatty smoke and some inky fruit. The wine is somewhat ungiving on the palate, however, with firm tannins and little fruit or elegance. Good body and fine for drinking, but seems to be lacking in style. Not showing well tonight. This is the second time I've been somewhat under-whelmed by Talbot in the 1989 vintage. From a Bordeaux 1989 blind horizontal tasting. 16/20 (January 2002)

Chateau Talbot (St Julien) 1989: Nice colour, another young ruby red wine. Nose, however, is very bad. Vegetal aromas, green beans, reminiscent of a seaweed-covered beach. Likened to "a smelly river with a dead rabbit in it" by one person, although I wouldn't go that far! Still drinkable despite clearly being faulty. Sweet black fruit. Well balanced tannin and acidity. Pleasant finish. Not scored. (May 2000)

Chateau Talbot (St Julien) 1988: Nice colour, a quite youthful ruby red. An intense, rich blackcurrant nose. Palate of spice, cigars and fruit. 17.5/20 (May 2000)

Chateau Talbot (St Julien) 1987: This wine has a deep hue, and a pink-orange rim. The nose is all rich Christmas cake, spice and cigar-smoke. The palate is good. A little sweet, with fruit and oak. Finishes smooth. Nice tannin. Good length too. I kept coming back to this wine, which has quite advanced development, reflecting the vintage. 16.5/20 (May 2000)

Chateau Talbot (St Julien) 1986: Surprisingly a tawny rim - this is a relatively youthful wine. The nose has classic rich ink and liquorice. Smooth palate, good tannins, acidity good, well balanced, nice fruit. Smoky notes give some complexity. Finishes smoothly. Good length. 17+/20 (May 2000)

Chateau Talbot (St Julien) 1985: A deeply coloured wine, with some orange-red to the rim. Thick oily legs. The nose is delightful; meaty, oaky, violets. Slightly spicy/curry notes. The palate has good body. Tannins evident, finish is alcoholic. Cigar-smoke flavour. Good length. 17/20 (May 2000)

Chateau Talbot (St Julien) 1983: This wine has a red hue, with a pink-pale orange rim. Beautiful nose, with caramel, spices and coffee. The nose gives a suggestion of a fat richness. On the palate there is spice, liquorice, ink, black fruit and tobacco. What complexity! Soft, smooth finish. 17/20 (May 2000)

Chateau Talbot (St Julien) 1981: In the glass, this has a much richer red hue than the 1978. On the nose, Asian spices. Very up front. Smoke, ink, liquorice. Beautiful nose. The palate has an abundance of fruit, with lots of tannin. The fruit is present through to the finish. Some ink and liquorice. 17/20 (May 2000)

Chateau Talbot (St Julien) 1978: In appearance a dark wine, with a caramel, tawny hue, belying age. The nose has an exotic, smoky character. The palate is soft, with less tannin than the other wines, but still present. Blackcurrant fruit on finish. Notes of ink and liquorice. Elegant. Good length. 16.5/20 (May 2000)