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Sandeman
This Port house was founded by Scotsman George Sandeman in 1790, who established offices in London and Oporto, with the intention of importing Port, and also Sherry. This the firm did very successfully, despite the failure to secure a bodega in Jerez until 1879. There have been a few mishaps along the way, however, most notably the destruction by fire of their prized bodega in Jerez in 1912, a disaster which saw much of their stocks, of considerable age and value, completely lost. Despite this setback, the Sandeman family ran the business into the late 20th century, and remain involved in the business to this day, led by another George Sandeman, the seventh generation to take charge. In recent years, however, there have been new owners. From 1980 onwards it was been part of the Seagram group, but in 2002 it was taken over by Sogrape.
Like Quinta do Noval, Sandeman have been responsible for a number of firsts
in the Port trade, and in business generally. In 1805 they began to brand their
barrels with the Sandeman Crow's Foot emblem, using the same method animals were
branded - a hot iron. This practice was intended to guarantee quality by putting
the name of Sandeman to the Ports - which were often sold by UK wine merchants
with no mention of producer - but it was in fact the origin of the term 'brand',
as in 'brand name'. Later, the Sandeman family continued this theme of
innovation when they purchased the rights to the 'Don' image (shown right). This
drawing of a figure, in Portuguese student's cape and hat, holding a glass of
Port, by George Massiot Brown, was made in 1928. It's use by the Sandeman family
was one of the first examples of repeated use of a recognisable brand image for marketing
purposes.
Despite these successes, Sandeman has not enjoyed the same following as Taylors, the Symington estates of Dows, Warres or Grahams, or Quinta do Noval. Over time quality has been patchy. The aged tawnies have always been worth seeking out, though, and I taste four such wines here. In addition, recent years has seen an improvement in quality of the other wines, and some new innovations. The development of the Vau vintage Port, designed for earlier drinking, appeals very much to some markets. The vintage wine has been more reliable. (11/12/03)
Contact details:
Address: Apartado 13080, Largo Miguel Bombarda 3, 4401 - 501 Vila Nova de Gaia
Telephone: +351 22 374 0500
Fax: +351 22 374 0594
Internet: www.sandeman.com
Sandeman Port - Tasting Notes
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Sandeman Vau Vintage Port 2000: Dark sweet fruit on the nose here. That
molasses edge again. This is lovely. A wealth of rich, sweet fruit on the
palate, which is smooth and beautifully textured. There is an excellent quality
of fruit, and impressive, ripe tannins. 17.5+/20 (December 2003)
Sandeman Vintage Port 2000: A dense, rich, figgy nose. Vintage
characteristics take over from house style here I feel. Smooth, creamy, fat,
rich and dense describes the palate, and yet it has an elegant poise as well.
Lots of wonderfully ripe tannins. This is a star in the making. 18+/20 (December
2003)
Sandeman Vau Vintage Port 1999: The house style begins to become apparent
now. This has a similar package of sweet fruit with a molasses edge. The palate
is warm, rich and very approachable, although there is still plenty of tannin in
the midpalate and finish. Rich toasty fruits but with an elegant edge. 16.5+/20
(December 2003)
Sandeman LBV Port 1997: Moderate fruit with an edge of sweet molasses
on the nose. Low tannin and acidity on the palate, combined with more of that
abundant sweet fruit. Very approachable. For current drinking. 16/20 (December
2003)
Sandeman Vau Vintage Port 1997: Good deep colour, with just a fine sediment. The nose is straightforward but
delightful, full of black toasted fruits, with occasional hints of molasses
riches. But mostly it offers pure, rich fruit. The palate has a rapidly fading
level of tannins, which only start to bite after the second or third glass.
Fresh acidity, piles of extract and texture, and pure fruit like the nose. For
my tastes, this is ready now. Others may prefer to leave it another year or two,
and it should drink well for a decade or more. 16.5/20 (December 2003)
Sandeman Vau Vintage Port 1997: A
cuvée intended for the American market, if you believe the blurb, where
Vintage Port is often consumed in its youth. A deep purple black colour,
with sweet black fruits on the nose. This is mirrored on the palate,
which has rich, chocolate-edged fruit. Still plenty of tannin but with
so much sweet substance and nicely balanced alcohol it does seem
approachable now. From a
1997 Vintage Port
blind tasting. 16.5+/20 (December 2003) (February 2003)
Sandeman Vau Vintage
Port 1997: An intense inky-purple hue, with a
tremendous number of slowly formed legs. Nose has loads
of fruit - berries and plums, is very figgy, and with
time develops some chocolate aromas. The palate has
lovely weight, but is marred by aggressive tannins,
although these have settled after 24 hours. A
fruit-packed palate, more figs, some smoky charred wood.
Good length. Little sediment of note.
16.5+/20 (July 2000)
Tasting notes are ordered by date of tasting, most recent first. I have tried to indicate whether it is a tasting of a new release, or of a wine I have cellared.
Sandeman 20 Year Old Tawny Port NV: Latest release. Rich, figgy, nutty aromas on the
nose. A wonderful texture and richness on the palate, with creamy nut flavours.
Despite the age there is still grip and acidity here. Elegant, wonderful
drinking. 17/20 (December 2003)
Sandeman 30 Year Old Tawny Port NV: Latest release. Elegance yet again. A delicate,
floral edge to the molasses richness that is found on the nose. The palate is
full, sweet and creamy, and packed with texture and nut and fig flavours. This
is fully integrated and nicely balanced. Rich and impressive. 18/20 (December
2003)
Sandeman 40 Year Old Tawny Port NV: Latest release. There's more on the nose here - rich,
warm, roasted flavours. The palate offers an intriguing combination of rich
intensity with an elegant balance. Elegance really is the hallmark of these
three blended tawnies. A touch more power than the 30 year old. Very impressive.
18.5/20 (December 2003)
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