Home > Producer Profiles > Loire Profiles > Chateau Pierre-Bise

Chateau Pierre-Bise

On the occasion of my first ever visit to Chateau Pierre-Bise, Claude Papin greeted me warmly; it seems that this was to his credit, as he later explained that the first visitors of the day had arrived whilst he was still sleeping. This early and perhaps rude awakening hadn't dampened Papin's enthusiasm, however, and he soon escorted me into the family kitchen. Here, seated at the family's dinner table and armed with pen and his pad of headed notepaper, Papin began my introduction to his philosophy of wine.

The Papin Philosophy

At the core of the Papin philosophy lie three components - terroir, polyphenols and botrytis. Papin, a former President of the Technical Institute of the Vine and of Wine, works hard to ensure that his wines are what he calls vins de terroir rather than vins de varieté; that is to say they express some aspect of their origin rather than simple, grape-derived characteristics alone. Papin believes that the development of polyphenols in the wine makes a significant contribution to vinous complexity and the expression of terroir, and that botrytis also has an important role to play. To explain his theory on the interplay between botrytis, polyphenols and the preservation of terroir-based complexity Papin made some sketches for me on some notepaper at his kitchen table.

Pierre-Bise

Paraphrasing somewhat, Papin explained that as grapes ripen the sugar concentration increases, but at a certain point they also reach physiological maturity, signified by the change in colour of the pips (from green to yellow-brown). This is an important point in the development of the grape, as physiological maturity influences the style and type of tannins and acidity in the final wine. At this time Papin hopes for the onset of botrytis infection; a rapid shrivelling of the grapes as a result of botrytis will result in a vin de terroir, but in contrast a slowly proegressive botrytis infection will result in a vin de variété. One reason for this may be the cleaving of polyphenols, which allow the grapes to express complexity and terroir, by Botrytis cinerea in the event of slow and prolonged infection. A rapid shrivelling would make this event much less likely, preserving the terroir-derived characteristics in the wine.

The Pierre-Bise Wines and Vineyards

To illustrate his arguments about terroir and wine Papin and I drove up into the hills behind Chateau Pierre-Bise. Here we walked among the Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chenin Blanc vines, and enjoyed our vista over what Papin regards as three distinct mesoclimates. The shrivelled remains of a green harvest littered the ground, lying adjacent to the grass that runs between the rows. The vines desperately threw runners that clawed their way towards the sky. Papin does not believe in pruning the vine during active growth. And on the vines themselves hung bunches of tiny, developing grapes, hopefully carrying the characteristics of the terroir on which the vines grew. From his seemingly ever-changing portfolio of vineyards Claude Papin produces an admirable array of wines, white, red and sweet, all of which have the potential to impress. The best known white cuvée is the Anjou Haut de la Garde, sourced from a north to north-west facing vineyard on the south bank of the Loire with a mixed terroir of schist, sandstone and ryolite, an igneous rock with a high silica content. Just across the river lie the most evocative names of Savennières which have a similar terroir, the two crus Coulée de Serrant and Roche aux Moines, and the famed Clos du Papillon vineyard. At the top of the Haut de la Garde slope is Les Rayelles, source of the fruit for one of Papin's Coteaux du Layon cuvées, although the exact proportions of fruit that go into the sweet Layon as opposed to the dry Anjou depends on the vintage and the quantity of botrytised grapes.

Papin's other great white cuvée in recent vintages has been his Savennières, produced from the rented Clos de Coulaine. This has been a fine and yet very affordable example of the appellation, very drinkable in its youth and yet with great potential for development in bottle, although they can go through a prolonged 'dead phase' when there is no pleasure to be gained through opening one. Despite rumours that this wine was to no longer play a part in the Pierre-Bise portfolio, I ascertained during a visit to the domaine in 2007 that this was not the case, and that Papin, for the time being at least, has maintained his lease here. These rumours followed Papin's acquisition of two other plots in the Savennières appellation, including one in the cru Roche aux Moines purchased in 2004. For this reason we can only anticipate even greater expressions of the Savennières terroir from Papin, although his first vintage with full responsibility for the vines throughout the entire growing season on the Roches aux Moines plot was not until the 2005 vintage. Having tasted the wine, it is breath-taking, and during my 2007 sojourn in the Loire was the first wine I tasted in the three weeks that really took my breath away.

Pierre-Bise

Papin also produces a range of red wines from the two Cabernets and Gamay grown on schistous and carboniferous soils, bottled under the Anjou-Villages and Anjou-Gamay appellations. Some would argue that these are among the finest red wines in the Loire, and I would not argue against that point. These wines have not been anointed with a more defining appellation such as Chinon or Bourgueil, but this is not a good reason to ignore them. Nevertheless, it is with his range of sweet wines from the Coteaux du Layon appellations that Pierre-Bise really enters the premier league of Loire estates. Les Rayelles, drawn from the same vineyard as Le Haut de la Garde, has already been discussed above. The other vineyards and appellations of note are as follows:

The proof, as they say, is in the pudding, and after my sojourn in the vineyards on that first visit I returned with Papin to his house in order to taste the wines of Chateau Pierre-Bise. As I worked my way through the range Papin exhibited another skill, as he entertained my three youngsters with some sleight of hand probably first used to entertain his own sons René and Christophe. Both are now grown up and taking an active interest in the family estate; Christophe spends more time tending the vineyards, whereas René, who studied oenology in Dijon, is more likely to be found in the cellar. No tricks with disappearing corks, however, could distract me from these wines; here is an impressive range indeed. Subsequent visits only confirm my thought that Pierre-Bise is truly a leading light in all of the appellations of Anjou. (18/9/03, last updated 19/3/09)

Contact details:
Address: 49750 Beaulieu-sur-Layon
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 41 78 31 44
Fax: +33 (0) 2 41 78 41 24

Chateau Pierre-Bise - Tasting Notes

Click to locate stockists.

2007

Chateau Pierre-Bise Anjou Blanc Le Haut de la Garde 2007: Good ripe fruit here, with a very rich and forward character. Quite firm and precise on the palate, peppery, rather stylish, with a fine midpalate texture. I sense some power beneath the pepper and spice here. This is good wine. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17+/20 (February 2009)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Savennières Clos de Coulaine 2007: This wine is not so expressive as the Haut de la Garde on the nose, but it expresses some dried fruit nuances. There is finesse on the palate; lively acids and a gentle structure although it has a good backbone overall. It is perhaps a touch diffuse today. Good potential though. An update from the 2009 Salon. 16.5+/20 (February 2009)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Savennières Clos du Grand Beaupréau 2007: This has a great nose, with lively, mineral Chenin character with a bright and appealing style. The palate is polished, gentle and integrated, with a little honey fatness. Broad, laden with minerality, stylish and fine, this wine needs to firm up a little but this may well come in bottle. This should be very good in time. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17+/20 (February 2009)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Savennières Roches-aux-Moines 2007: The Papin family own 2 hectares (out of 33 available) of the Roches-aux-Moines cru, with 1.3 hectares in production. Another impressive nose here, tinged with honey and caramel, with deep and complex layers of flavours. Fat but balanced, with a minerally midpalate structure and a fine, elegant composition throughout. Not up to my memories of the 2005 but certainly a lovely wine. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17.5+/20 (February 2009)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Clos de la Soucherie 2007: From a south-facing slope, this wine has a fabulous nose, full of botrytis, honey and enticing minerals. The palate is gentle and rounded, with a subtle minerality and moderate concentration, showing a nice acid backbone in the midpalate. A touch diffuse, but with very good potential. An update from the 2009 Salon. 16.5+/20 (February 2009)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Rouannières 2007: A very attractive nose, more withdrawn than the Soucherie, subtle, but still showing ripe, golden and honeyed characters. Showing more finesse though; good minerally acidity, notes of pepper, overall a fine character here. Although a little soft-focus towards the end it shows more definition. This could come very good. An update from the 2009 Salon. 16.5+/20 (February 2009)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu L'Anclaie 2007: This has a much more withdrawn character on the nose, and is certainly much more reticent than the preceding two wines. Nevertheless the palate is broad, creamy and grippy, structured and nicely textured, with lots of appropriate acidity underneath. This has very good potential. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17+/20 (February 2009)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Quarts de Chaume 2007: More character here, the nose being light and aromatic, full of honey and wild flowers, although still restrained and well-judged. Broad, concentrated and impressive on the palate, the sweetness nicely counterbalanced by the mineral character. Quite fat and dense. It has a lovely floral, orange peel edge to it too. Nevertheless even with good acidity and minerality this doesn't quite have the definition I would like. Still a very good wine, though. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17+/20 (February 2009)

2005

Chateau Pierre-Bise Anjou Blanc Le Haut de la Garde 2005: A firm and characterful nose, rather meaty almost, mouthfilling and structured. It is deep, flavoursome and grippy, drily classic rather light and lively. It is very good. 16/20 (July 2007)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Savennières Clos de Coulaine 2005: The wine has a good rich hue on inspection, and the nose has a similar richness. It carries aromas of dried fruits and straw, and a certain mineral funk that I find very appealing. The palate is beautifully fresh on entry, but immediately displays a broad, textured character with some botrytis influence to the fruit here. This is a wine of dry substance, of grip, of depth, although it remains fresh with good acidity and a rather light-footed presence despite the obvious weight. Very well defined, nicely poised, although in the finish it gives way to more muscle and spice. Great length though. A super wine that is deliciously approachable now but which will surely repay cellaring too. Really very good indeed. I will be looking forward to drinking the remainder of my lot over the coming years. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 17+/20 (June 2008)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Savennières Clos de Coulaine 2005: This wine remains in the portfolio despite suggestions that Papin would have given up the lease by now. A lovely quality here, a definite step up from the Anjou, regardless of how good it was. It has that textured, delineated body that seems to define the appellation, rich and long, well defined and yet expansive. Really very good indeed. 17+/20 (July 2007)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Savennières Clos du Grand Beaupréau 2005: Another lovely example of the Savennières appellation, although presented in a different style to the Clos de Coulaine. It has fine definition and the same broad, impacting character that I would expect. Certainly the same level of quality, if not a little better. Very good indeed. 17+/20 (July 2007)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Savennières Roche aux Moines 2005: In the glass it has a rich, straw-gold hue. The nose is a little different to how I remember it; previously lifted and pure, here it displays greater richness, with aromas of honey, overt botrytis, minerals, straw and firm, crystalline fruit. It is still pure in character, but with an undeniable force too. The palate is full, weighty, structured, grippy, firm and flavoursome, and again this is showing very differently to the shimmering elegance I recall last year. It has a slightly bitter character despite the richness, reflecting a raw structure and underlying grip. There is a gentle integration of components, with a sappy and light character on the midpalate which is more in keeping with my memories, with more unrefined elements towards the finish. Although showing differently today, there is still a huge amount of raw potential here, and excellent capability for cellaring. This should be fine given another five or ten years, although it may drink well beyond even that. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 18.5+/20 (June 2008)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Savennières Roche aux Moines 2005: The first vintage for Papin with this Savennières cru. The nose here is just amazing, pure, well defined, lifted and fresh. It is unsurprisingly the same on the palate, a fabulous crystalline purity, with a mineral and honeyed yet dry character which is very, very seductive. Such vibrancy and character! This is simply grand, and certainly one I have added to my cellar. 19+/20 (July 2007)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu L'Anclaie 2005: One of Papin's many cuvées of Coteaux du Layon, this one from schistous soils. It has a lovely aromatic quality on the nose, with a rich, broad and mouthfilling character on the palate accompanied by fine acidity. Another cuvée just full of pleasure, and with such potential. Superb. 18+/20 (July 2007)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Rouannières 2005: Another example, but this one from spilite soils, a rock otherwise known locally as pierre-bise, of course. Rich, honeyed and pure, this is simply lovely. The same wealth of body and texture on the palate with a crisp, defining acidity to lift and balance. In terms of absolute quality, very little to separate these two cuvées. 18+/20 (July 2007)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Rochefort Les Rayelles 2005: This cuvée comes from the slopes at the top of the Haut de la Garde vineyard. Compared to the 2007s showed alongside it has more intensity, more botrytis, but also a little volatile acetone character. The palate has a good style, broad and sweet with soft acidity, although there is a nice freshness at the core. Certainly displaying more sugar than the 2007s reflecting the vintage, and the acidity is there. Very good indeed. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17+/20 (February 2009)

2004

Chateau Pierre-Bise Anjou-Gamay Sur Spilite 2004: Gamay, most likely from the Rouannières vineyard. A ripe and vibrant colour. Roasted berry fruit, blackcurrant and liquorice, leather and tar. Medium bodied, a little silkiness on entry and throughout the midpalate. It reveals some coffee-tinged plum fruit character and a fine, grippy, tannic structure in the middle, with a minerally, bony and stony edge. A little austere on the finish, and bitterly interesting, with notes of nettles, green peppercorns and garden mint alongside a slightly caramelised meat finish framed by the overtly tannic structure. Really rather good, and set to improve in the cellar. 16.5+/20 (September 2006)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Chaume 2004: This wine has deepened a little in colour, and is taking on a wonderfully rich, lightly coppery, onion-skin hue. Delicate aromas drift from the glass, of thyme and oranges, with a fine minerality. there are even elements of white chocolate, with gentle touches of hazelnut, honey and nougat. Beautifully rich and creamy and yet nicely poised on entry, with a melange of oranges, caramel and honey-toasted nuts, this has a remarkable character. There is a freshness to it, a slightly dry structure which affords it great presence and poise, although the memory of this fades as the finish, characterised by citrus and nuts, lingers on and on. Brilliantly polished, with a seamless texture and not a hair out of place; this is a superb and complex wine which is very fine indeed for drinking now, but which will only get better I feel. From a tasting of Layons & Chaumes. 18.5+/20 (December 2009)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Chaume 2004: At last the INAO have settled on a sensible name for this appellation! This has lovely depth, with a broad, textured creamy-gritty palate that is very reminiscent of the 1996 which I tasted a year or two ago. This gives much pleasure now, and certainly has potential for the cellar too. Another one that I have added to the cellar. Fabulous. 18.5+/20 (July 2007)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Quarts de Chaume 2004: This has a fine, rich, rounded, balanced and very pure character on the nose. It has a fine definition on the palate and the structure and fresh acidity for some time in the cellar I think. Certainly full of potential, this wine may well surpass the Chaume of the same vintage, but for the moment I must confess that I prefer the former. Very good indeed. 18+/20 (July 2007)

2003

Chateau Pierre-Bise Anjou-Villages Sur Spilite 2003: This was sold to me as Gamay, but any Loireophile worth his salt knows that Anjou-Villages can only be Cabernet. Once again this is most likely from the Rouannières vineyard. It has a vibrant hue, dark red at the core with a youthful, purple rim. Classic Loire nose, of fresh cherry stones with little nuances of tobacco and green peppercorns, with a firm, stony core. In character and flavour very reminiscent of wines from other schistous terroirs (mainly the Languedoc in my experience) on the palate, with a firm mineral detachment and wonderfully vibrant acidity, supporting some well delineated cherry-stone fruit with a little ripe raspberry joy on the finish. Wonderful style, so characterful, rounded off by a puckering, tannic finish. Really very good indeed, with good potential for the cellar. 17+/20 (September 2006)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Chaume Premier Cru des Coteaux du Layon 2003: Bottled at a time when Chaume was obviously still enjoying this exalted status. A very rich colour marks this wine as potentially offering something very special, and indeed the nose would seem to support this notion, with fabulous aromas of botrytis, honey, quince and minerals. Fabulously rich and almost creamy on entry, then striding across the midpalate with a very consistent style, before rounding up in a firm, structured finish which needs time in the cellar to round off. Nicely balanced too, by some appropriate acidity. This has just lovely style and great character, and is drinking beautifully now and will do so over the next few years, and I think will produce something very interesting indeed if left in the cellar for a little longer than that. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 17+/20 (September 2006)

2002

Chateau Pierre-Bise Anjou-Gamay 2002: A cult wine in some circles. This was a barrel-sample drawn for me as there were no bottled stocks available for tasting. A touch cloudy still at this stage - to be expected. Plenty of raspberry and black berry fruit. Great depth of flavour on the palate, with tannins and structure. 16.5+/20 (August 2003)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Rouannières 2002: A mineral-laden nose. Richly textured on the palate, which has an impressive full, round, liquorous honey mouthfeel. Complexity comes in the form of crushed rocks, beeswax and boiled sweets. This is brilliant. 17.5+/20 (May 2004)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Quarts de Chaume 2002: A fabulous golden-orange colour here. Honey, quince and cinder toffee on the nose. Full, sweet and liquorous on the palate, with crisp acidity and wonderful balance. Incredible characterful wine. Excellent. 18+/20 (May 2004)

2001

Chateau Pierre-Bise Savennières 2001: An expressive nose, full of pure rock and mineral aromas. Beautifully pungent. A similar impression on the palate, underpinned by the complex mineral, straw that comes from this variety. Delicious. 16/20 (May 2004)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Savennières Clos de Coulaine 2001: This has a welcoming, pale lemon-yellow hue. Warm hay and a touch of honey on the nose. Balanced, elegant, although showing plenty of body and alcoholic structure. It fans out through the midpalate, though, to really impress, with a complex array of flavours. Honey without sweetness, and straw too. Real character here. Tasted at Les Delices du Chateau in Saumur. 17+/20 (June 2004)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Clos de la Soucherie 2001: A good colour, fairly rich deepening lemon-gold. The nose is quite ethereal, with floral notes and honey. Sweetly textured on entry, rich throughout, with honey and beeswax through the midpalate, and a new caramel-citrus twist at the finish. Very long, firm and composed. A touch grippy at the end even. There is a little organic note in the middle, perhaps an evolving secondary note, but overall still very good indeed. From a tasting of Layons & Chaumes. 17.5+/20 (December 2009)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Clos de la Soucherie 2001: Elegant, fruit dominated nose, a touch ethereal, showing botrytis with a little exposure to air. Rich, apricot, honey, mineral character on the palate, matched by sufficient acidity. Mouth-coating, expansive, almost luscious feel. But has great balance. Shows some grip at the finish. Long, lingering presence. Delicious, with superb potential; should improve over the next 5-8 years. From a Loire Extravaganza tasting. 18+/20 (July 2005)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Clos de la Soucherie 2001: Grown on carboniferous soils. A lovely, floral, elegant nose. A fantastic palate - rich and honeyed, loaded with minerals, with tremendous texture and complexity. Botrytis in evidence. Beautifully balanced. 18/20 (August 2003)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu L'Anclaie 2001: A rich orange-gold now, and a great nose, full of honey and beeswax, with elements of white chocolate, quince and nougat. A lovely palate, rich and layered, full of creamy quince and honey and very, very stylish. This is showing not only intensity, but also a fabulous balance of structure, and a lovely textural quality to the substance of the wine. This seems to have been more touched by botrytis than the Soucherie and Rouannières cuvées, and in the finish there is sweet oatmeal biscuit, honey and caramel. This is brilliant stuff, potentially a very long-lived and a wine I shall be happy drinking many years in the future I think. From a tasting of Layons & Chaumes. 18.5+/20 (December 2009)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu L'Anclaie 2001: Mid-golden hue. Quite classic nose, showing talc and mineral-infused citrus fruit, coated in honey. This comes through on the palate, which still demonstrates a very primary, oily, viscous, honeyed fruit palate, with a minerality like that on the nose, cut through with some fairly firm acidity. Whilst lovely to drink now, this is destined to be a long-lived cuvée. Will improve in bottle over the next decade with ease. Great quality here. From a Loire Extravaganza tasting. 18+/20 (July 2005)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu L'Anclaie 2001: Grown on schist. Honey, botrytis and beeswax on the nose, with floral, acacia notes - this is brilliant. There's an amazing texture on the palate which has mineral and botrytis flavours to mirror the nose, and bags of texture. Wonderful, flavoursome, structured finish. I'm actually drinking another bottle as I type up these notes. 18/20 (August 2003)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Rouannières 2001: This has a delightful aroma, rather more expressive than the Clos de la Soucherie that preceded it. It gives a blast of pure, crystalline honey, with lots of quince-botrytis elements, then notes of herbal tea and a fine, rocky minerality. The palate starts of broad but very well defined and polished, and lusciously sweet. There is a little element of high-toned volatility running through it, but only at the level that provides interesting complexity, and on top of that I find a note of subtle, toasty, Maillard-like, golden-roasted meat. The finish is slightly organic, savoury and very, very long. From a tasting of Layons & Chaumes. 18+/20 (December 2009)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Rouannières 2001: A tinge of golden colour here. Gorgeous nose; smoky, stony, cordite-infused. Very organic, almost animalistic character. This is showing lovely development. Big, rich, sweet, luscious palate. Incisive acidity, which becomes apparent on the endpalate once the seductive texture has played its part. That organic, minerally character again. Lemons, oranges, botrytis? This is simply superb, and also shows great development compared to my tasting at the domaine. Great length. From a Loire Extravaganza tasting. 18+/20 (July 2005)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Rouannières 2001: Grown on spilite. More delicate than the previous wines, gently honeyed. Elegant balance of honey and mineral flavours, texture and acidity on the palate. Has a luscious texture. Great length. 18/20 (August 2003)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Quarts de Chaume 2001: This is a bright and yet deeply golden wine, which shows good evolution on the nose, where there are aromas of light toffee and honey, orange blossom, minerals, quartz, botrytis, apricot and more. But there is also something less tangible too, a seam of savouriness, more like oatmeal; it is fine and appealing. A beautiful palate ensues, tangerine brightness and sweetness combined, bright and acid-rich marmalade, full and creamy too, and full of crusted minerals like the nose. Brilliant, fresh and yet sweet, complex, overall a brilliant wine. Although a delight now, a little more than the three Layons tasted alongside, this wine absolutely demands to be cellared for a good few years yet. From a tasting of Layons & Chaumes. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 19+/20 (December 2009)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Quarts de Chaume 2001: Attractive, light-golden colour. Intense nose; chalky, mineral, botrytis character, with wild honey, honeysuckle and pepper. Sweet, impressive palate, with plenty of impact from the moment of entry. Lovely acidity, countering the rich, oily, viscous style. Minerally, organic, savoury yet seductive. Great length. Very good indeed, with great potential. 18.5+/20 (July 2005)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Quarts de Chaume 2001: This is a little muted on the nose. Nevertheless, the wine has plenty of texture and structure on the palate. Flavours of sweet orange marmalade, with complex notes and great acidity. It has plenty of botrytis but doesn't come across as very sweet on the palate. Another brilliant wine in the making. 18.5/20 (August 2003)

2000

Chateau Pierre-Bise Anjou Blanc Le Haut de la Garde 2000: Fresh, clean, floral nose, with obvious notes of botrytis. Despite this it is very dry on the palate, with bags of character. There is a tannic structure unusual for a white wine, but it works very well. Great texture. 16.5+/20 (August 2003)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Savennières Clos de Coulaine 2000: A rich but clean, mid-golden hue. The nose is delightfully vibrant, precisely fragrant rather than over the top. The fruit has a lightly dried character, sweet but not excessively so, vibrant too, like a little cube of desiccated pineapple. Later, there are gently presented elements of Chenin Blanc, a pillow of soft straw and a light seam of Demerara sugar. Despite this it has a fleshy but very dry quality on the palate, with a lovely purity to it, although with plenty of that dried yet minerally fruit and straw character. There is a rather firm grip at times, backed up by a fine, honeyed and velvety texture, and the acidity is perfectly integrated. My only issue is that there are moments when it seems to drop away in the midpalate, but this really is splitting hairs. Overall it has a lovely, almost marrowy substance and a nice length. Really good wine; I wish I had more! For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 17/20 (March 2010)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Savennières Clos de Coulaine 2000: A rented plot. A lovely nose, honeyed and aromatic. Warm, round and mouthfilling on the palate. More elegance than the Anjou, with more complexity too. It still has structure though. 17+/20 (August 2003)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Anjou-Villages 2000: A Cabernet Franc - Cabernet Sauvignon blend grown on schist. Good fruit on the nose, with stony elements. Quite a sweet and ripe palate, but with plenty of structure. 15.5+/20 (August 2003)

Chateau Pierre-Bise Anjou-Villages 2000: A Cabernet Franc - Cabernet Sauvignon blend grown on a mixture of spilite and schist. This is more earthy, minerally and complex than the previous wine. Plenty of depth and structure. An excellent mouthfeel. 16/20 (August 2003)

1996

Chateau Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon Chaume 1996: A fabulous, expressive nose, with lovely butter and toffee aromas. Splendid botrytis showing on the palate, with a blend of honey, toffee and quince. There are complex mineral notes, with simply fabulous acidity. This wine has decades ahead of it. Superb. 18.5+/20 (May 2004)