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Chateau Pichon-Baron
If one is in search of a true fairytale chateau, I would recommend that one
travels to the Loire Valley, and start with Chateau d'Usse. And if that doesn't
appeal, there are a few others I would suggest, starting with Azay-le-Rideau (right).
But Bordeaux also has its own version of the fairytale chateau, and here too
there are several contenders. Although Chateau Palmer
may warrant a mention, the two chateau that bear the name of the ancient Pichon
vineyard would top the list of many Bordeaux savants. Chateau Pichon-Baron (the
full title of which is Chateau Longueville au Baron de Pichon-Longueville - I
will stick with Pichon-Baron) is perhaps the strongest contender, the witchery
of the keen, conical roofs sitting atop their circular towers lending
the building an almost magical feel.
The seeds of the creation of the Pichon domaine, which was split to form the two Pichons of today, Baron and Lalande, may be found in the late 17th Century, when Jacques de Pichon-Longueville married Thérèse de Rauzan, daughter of Pierre de Mazure de Rauzan. Jacques was descended from François de Pichon and Catherine de Bavolier, the family having assumed the Barony of Longueville when their son, Bernard, married Anne Daffis de Longueville in 1646. Bernard and his consort had two children, François, who by marriage took on the Barony of Parempuyre, and the aforementioned Jacques.
The Rauzan family were not newcomers to viticulture, having already owned vineyards in Margaux, and in 1689 had purchased several plots in Pauillac which, when they came to the Pichon family, were to be the foundation for the Pichon vineyard. In later years these were augmented by the exchange of plots of vines with neighbouring Latour. The estate quickly developed an excellent reputation, second only, at least within the boundaries of the commune, to its more illustrious neighbour. Jacques died in 1731 and the property was inherited by his son, also Jacques, and it passed through two more generations of the Pichon family, Jean-Pierre and then Joseph. Born in 1755, it was Joseph who held tenure during the French Revolution, which saw him incarcerated for a short period of time. He was also the last member of the Pichon family who held sway over all the vines, as upon his death the estate was divided between his children, creating the Pichon faux jumeaux that we know today. Of the five offspring, only one son remained; this was Raoul, who assumed the title of Baron, and would seem to be the heir apparent. Under new Napoleonic laws, however, the estate could not pass intact to a sole recipient, but must be divided between all possible heirs. And so two shares, including that which would have passed to their late son Louis, came to Raoul, and thus the Pichon-Baron die was cast. The remaining three shares passed to the daughters, these vineyards forming the nexus of Chateau Pichon-Lalande.
Raoul de Pichon-Longueville had the old manor house demolished and a fine
chateau (left) built in its place in 1851. Writing in Grands Vins, Clive
Coates asserts that the chateau was modelled on Azay-le-Rideau pictured above, and
I for one can see (some) resemblance, the witch's hat turrets being the most
characteristic feature of each I think. Under his tenure the Pichon-Baron estate
(and also Pichon-Lalande, for the two portions were run as a single business for
several years after their supposed separation) was deemed to be of second growth
quality in the 1855
classification. It seems that it was only upon his death in
1860 that the division was final, with one of the sisters taking the helm
single-handed at Lalande, whilst Pichon-Baron passed to Raoul's cousin, another
Raoul. By 1933, however, the family had run out of potential heirs, and the last
surviving member sold the estate to the Bouteillier family. Under their
management Pichon-Baron continued to enjoy a good reputation, the estate already
having survived the succession of devastation that was mildew, Phylloxera, war
and depression. But the death of Jean Bouteillier in 1961 marked a decline in
the Baron's fortunes. Jean's children were young and inexperienced, and there
was a deficit of leadership and investment.
Through the 1970s and 1980s it was clear that the wines made at Chateau Pichon-Baron lacked the quality that is expected of a second growth. Fermentation temperatures were uncontrolled, macerations was excessively lengthy, and the wine was bottled in the courtyard with no control over the environment. This was the state of affairs when Jean-Michel Cazes (he of Lynch-Bages, and other properties such as Les Ormes de Pez) and AXA Millésimes became involved, with the purchase of the property completing in 1987. AXA Millésimes (who have an admirable portfolio, including Chateau Suduiraut in Sauternes) had huge capability for investment and it was no surprise that there were many changes at Chateau Pichon-Baron. The chai wasn't just renovated, it was completely rebuilt, using a design by architects Patrick Dillon and Jean de Gastines, after the pair won a competition for the best design. The new buildings face each other across the fish pool in front of the chateau, and yet they are hardly noticeable as they are sunk into the ground. The cellars themselves extend beneath the pool in front of the chateau, the cool waters above helping to moderate the temperatures below. The chateau itself, always under-utilised, was renovated, although sadly it remains unoccupied. The result of this investment has been a heady rise in quality, and Pichon-Baron now challenges Pichon Lalande where previously, in my opinion, there was simply no competition.
Today Pichon Baron is managed by Christian Seely, Jean-Michel Cazes having retired from this role in 2000. By this point, the reputation of Pichon-Baron had already been restored, with a string of admirable wines produced particularly during the latter years of the preceding decade. A newly equipped chai completed in 1991, a new bottling line and new practices in the cellars were the cornerstone of the improvements, although the march onwards did not stop there. It was to my disappointment that, on espying the chateau in late 2006, it bore a greater resemblance to a building site than a fairytale castle. But the chateau was untouched, the work concerned the cellars beneath the shimmering pool that lies in front of the chateau. More work, more improvements, more investment. With continued commitment we should see more great wines from Pichon-Baron over the coming years.
The vineyards at Pichon-Baron cover 73 hectares of typical gravel, and are
planted with 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc.
Harvesting is manual, and the fruit destemmed before fermentation in temperature-controlled
stainless-steel tanks at 28°C to 30°C. Malolactic occurs in vat, after which the wine is transferred into French oak barrels
(some may undergo malolactic here) for up to
18 months, using 70% new and 30% one-year old, with racking every 3 months. The
grand vin is Chateau Longueville au Baron de Pichon-Longueville,
Pichon-Baron to you and me, with a typical production of 24000 cases. The second
wine is Les Tourelles de Longueville, introduced with the 1986 vintage, of which
12000 cases are typically produced. Les Tourelles might be regarded a
groundbreaking wine by some; in early 2007 it was revealed that a proportion of
the second wine, those bottles intended for the on trade (restaurants and the
like, not retail sales) would be bottled under a screwcap closure, rather than
the traditional cork. For a deuxième cru, even if it is only the second wine,
this is a bold and admirable move indeed.
The style of the Pichon-Baron is one of contrast to sibling Pichon-Lalande, which has enjoyed a very strong following for many years because of is sensual, seductive nature. Baron, on clawing back the quality necessary to rival Lalande, has demonstrated a more masculine, structured, reserved although not quite reticent style of wine more akin to Latour than Lalande, and no doubt this is in part due to the significant proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend, more than can be found in the sister wine. Pichon-Baron has a special resonance with me, as I recall it as being one of the earliest bottles of classed growth claret I ever purchased, the wine in question being the 1983 vintage at a price well under ten pounds per bottle. I must confess I wasn't very impressed at the time, but enjoyed another bottle more when I tasted it over a decade later. More recent vintages, however, have shown much more character and depth. Of all the vintages from 1997 through to 2005 there isn't a real disappointment, with even the 1997 proving that there were some palatable wines made in this rather questionable year. But it is with the success of 2000, 2003 and 2005 that the real worth shines through, and I hope with continued care this quality will translate through to the lesser vintages as well. (26/2/04, updated 26/1/07)
Contact details:
Address: Chateau Pichon-Baron, 33250 Pauillac
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 73 17 17
Fax +33 (0) 5 56 73 17 28
Internet:
www.pichonlongueville.com
Chateau Pichon-Baron - Tasting Notes
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Chateau Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2007: At Pichon-Baron, 60% of the harvest went into the grand vin, higher than
some other leading estates. Cabernet dominates, at 74%, the balance being Merlot. This has a very appealing nose, intense fruit, with
a floral and aromatic character. Nicely textured, gently weighty, with good grip
showing towards the finish. Firmly structured, not flattering, a touch austere
rather than fleshy. Overall, though, good. From my
2007 Bordeaux
en primeur assessment. 16-17+/20 (April 2008)
Les Tourelles de Longuville 2007: This is 62%
Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc. A rather
flashy, open, stylish nose here, showing pretty and attractive fruit. An
appealing palate showing uncomplicated style, gentle flesh and a nice balance.
Rather firm tannins showing just on the finish. This has a good quality. From my
2007 Bordeaux
en primeur assessment. 14-15+/20 (April 2008)
Chateau Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2006: A wine on which I was perhaps
overly hard when judging the barrel sample, in April 2007 - or at least it is
showing much better now. Today this shows a
pure, aromatic fruit, and also some integrated oak. Nice, fleshy, balanced,
although with an austere structure underneath. It possess a very firm grip at
the finish, and has a very powerful frame. This is really very good and deserves
a higher score than my last one. From a
Bordeaux 2006 assessment. 16.5-17/20
(April 2008)
Chateau Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2006: Attractive, vibrant red fruit, and a touch
toasty on the nose. The palate has a very dry, reserved character, very firm,
with moderate acidity and a little flesh, not quite enough to cover the tannins
at present. Overall it is very backward today, and seems hugely tannic and yet
lacking in the substance necessary to counterbalance this. This might be a
problem. A disappointment for the AXA Pichon-Baron team, who have been on a roll
recently. From my 2006 Bordeaux
assessment. 14-15/20 (April 2007)
Chateau Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2005:
A bright and forceful nose here, showing crunchy fruit with a fresh, redcurrant
and blackcurrant character with a dash of pepper. Very pure and typical Baron
style on the palate as well, which has supple tannins, well covered with a fine
texture, and a nice acid backbone. Very good indeed; elegant but with weight and
excellent potential. From my tasting of
2005 Bordeaux at two
years of age. 18+/20 (October 2007)
Chateau Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2005: CS 65%, M 30%, CF 5%. A fine colour, rather
vibrant and appealing. Classic dark fruit nose, with bramble notes, quite
expressive when worked hard in the glass but otherwise this is giving little
away today. Balanced and elegant, with ripe, polished fruit over a fine
structure of ripe tannins. There are hidden complexities here, which will be
more readily revealed with time. I think this could be very good indeed, but it
needs time. From my 2005 Bordeaux
en primeur tasting. 17-18/20 (April 2006)
Chateau Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2004: This is immediately expressive and exotic, and
impresses from the very beginning. It has a nose full of spice and fruit, a very
full style, fresh, with lovely acidity, and a nicely delineated style. Plump but
with the necessary grip beneath. Ripe but tightly framed, this delivers a
wonderful sensation. Very fine, and a higher score this time I note. From a
tasting of 2004 Bordeaux. 17.5+/20
(April 2007)
Chateau Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2004:
A newly opened bottle, reserved nose, a little brooding perhaps, but when the
fruit emerges it shows a paradoxical, vibrant freshness. Very nicely balanced on
the palate; a firmer structure, more muted than the other Pichon, more
traditionally styled perhaps. Good acid structure, crisp and fresh, the tannins
only rounding on the finish. This will be fine in the cellar. From my
2004 Bordeaux
assessment. 17+/20 (October 2006)
Les Tourelles de Longueville (Pauillac) 2004: The second wine of
Pichon-Baron. From one of the 12000 bottles
under screwcap. Of the two wines, one under screwcap and one under cork (both
tasted blind) this has the fresher colour. A smoky and gamey nose, with a touch
of iodine. Perhaps a touch reduced? Rounded, sweet, firm, with gentle fruit and
good tannin. Not very vigorous. Good though. The bright colour and note of reduction
suggests screwcap to me. From a
tasting of Les
Tourelles under screwcap and cork at the château. 15.5+/20 (April 2008)
Les Tourelles de Longueville (Pauillac) 2004: The second wine of
Pichon-Baron. This wine, also tasted blind,
turned out to be bottled under cork. It has a remarkably different colour
considering these have only been in bottle a year or two. Although the colour is
more advanced, it still has a smoky and gamey character on the nose, and is clearly in the
same vein as the preceding wine, although it is perhaps less expressive. It
seems a little more fleshy, a touch sweeter. It has clearly evolved differently, and is
attractive. Ready for drinking very soon. From a
tasting of Les
Tourelles under screwcap and cork at the château. 15.5/20 (April 2008)
Chateau Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2003: A rather muted nose compared with
Pichon-Lalande, although still showing exotic, perfumed and violet-infused black
fruits with a roasted nut edge. Succulent, creamy, with firm tannins, quite well
knitted together with the substance of the wine. Full, exotic, slightly brawny,
but with good acidity. There is some finesse here, and overall it's a touch more
exciting than young Pichon-Baron usually is. Lovely floral-tinged finish. A
success! From my
2003 Bordeaux
assessment. 17.5+/20 (October 2005)
Les Tourelles de Longueville (Pauillac) 2003: The second wine of Pichon-Baron. A very good depth of colour on inspection, and a nice nose, quite
restrained in terms of exuberance, but what it does yield is interesting, with
spicy, exotic, raspberry jam and confit cherry characteristics, some of
which obviously reflect the character of the vintage. Fleshy, attractive, but
dry and minerally, quite tightened up, with a seam of polished tannins. A lovely
finish. There are layers of flavour here. Very nice, but not for drinking just
yet to see it at its peak. From the 2007
CIVB tasting.
16.5-17+/20 (October 2007)
Chateau Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2002: A barrel sample. A dense, almost exotic
nose, obviously very youthful. With it's rich, rounded and creamy texture, it's
clear this wine still has plenty of baby fat.
Good acidity and plenty of tannins in the background. This is one for the cellar
- needs a decade or more. 16.5+/20
(November 2003)
Chateau Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2001: A dark, classically styled, black fruit
nose. Again a touch of roasted nuts. Lovely texture. A touch light but it has
elegance. There are appropriate tannins which need a little time - five years -
and there is correct acidity. Delicious mix of red and black fruits. This is my
kind of wine. 17+/20
(November 2003)
Chateau Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 2000: A very dark, impenetrable colour. The nose
is closed, but gives some notes of roasted fruit and roasted nuts. There's a
lovely fat texture on the palate, but with plenty of tannin and acidity to back
it up. Dark, brooding, fruit. A splendid effort. 18+/20
(November 2003)
Chateau Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 1999: This is rich, with a slightly rounded edge
to the fruit, with appealing touches of cashew nuts and roasted herbs. A full, rich,
rounded texture on the palate, with some fatness. Soft tannins and slightly low
acidity. This is very enjoyable indeed. 17+/20
(November 2003)
Chateau Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 1998: This is closed on the nose. The palate at
first offers chalky tannins with some texture. Nicely balanced, although simple,
closed
and backward at the moment, but it has potential. Underneath there is some good
structure. Needs three to five years in the cellar. 17+/20
(November 2003)
Chateau
Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 1998: What a fantastic nose - all cedar
and cigar box, with pencil shavings and classically restrained
blackcurrant fruit. Fine elegance on the palate, with firm and crisp
tannins, great acidity and some power to the fruit. A drying, tannic
finish. From an Oddbins
tasting. 17+/20
(November 2001)
Chateau Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 1997: Obviously mature from inspecting the
colour. Pleasant, mature fruit on the nose. Clean. A fat texture, with still a
little unresolved tannin. Firm acidity. There is some sweet, pastille like
fruit. For drinking over the next couple of years. A rare performance for this
vintage. 15.5/20
(November 2003)
Les Tourelles de Longueville (Pauillac) 1997: The second wine of
Chateau Pichon-Baron. This wine has a dark and appealing red colour, with just a
surprising and somewhat worrying hint of mahogany. Clearly has elements of class
on the nose, very typically Pauillac. Soft and rounded on the palate, it builds
texture in the mouth. Subtle, balanced tannins and acidity, and lovely
blackcurrant fruit. Just lacks a little concentration. From a
Majestic press
tasting. 15/20
(November 2001)
Les Tourelles de Longueville (Pauillac) 1988: From a half bottle. No
need to decant. Good, mature colour. Classic left bank nose, with mature,
gravelly, Cabernet fruit. Firm, savoury palate. Still rather upright tannins
which will improve over the next three to four years. Good flavour though.
Meaty, masculine, serviceable claret of quality but not finesse. Very good.
Tasted at The Vintners Rooms. 16.5+/20
(February 2005)
Chateau Pichon-Baron
(Pauillac) 1983: Another moderately intense mahogany wine.
A ripe berry fruit nose, opening up to reveal some smoky
complexity. A little austere on the palate, with some
unintegrated tannins and obvious acidity. Oriental spices and good
fruit, with a creamy texture. Some length. From a
Bordeaux 1983 blind tasting.
17.5+/20
(November 2000)
Chateau Pichon-Baron (Pauillac) 1961: This has some lovely fruit on the
nose, which is elegant, with a minerally red berry character. This is stylish
and expressive, with a great depth. The palate is big, structured and
impressive, still showing quite a bit of grip. This is another wine in this
tasting which has a complete, rounded, style, although there is a bit of
meatiness to it too. A fine, slowly fading finish. Great length. Really nice
wine here. From a 1961
Bordeaux tasting. 18/20
(June 2007)
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