Home > Producer Profiles > Bordeaux Profiles > Chateau Léoville-Poyferré
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré
One of the three Léoville estates, Poyferré and its peers Barton and Las-Cases have their origins in the grand Léoville estate that dominated St Julien in the 17th and 18th Centuries. The groundwork for the split was laid in 1769, when proprietor Blaise de Gascq died without an heir, as a consequence the estate coming to four family members, the Marquis de Las-Cases-Beauvoir, his brother and two sisters. Before the end of the century, however, the revolution forced the Marquis to flee France, and as a result the estate was sequestered and eligible for sale as a national asset. Staving off this eventuality, the family elected to break up the estate and sell it piecemeal, and so initially only one quarter was sold off, this being the origin of Léoville-Barton. The remaining three quarters remained in the family, and this was the state of affairs when the Marquis was succeeded in 1815 by his son, Pierre-Jean, the Maréchal de Camps under Napoleon. Pierre-Jean inherited most of what remained of the estate from his elders, with a smaller stake coming to his sister, Jeanne. This was effectively the second division of the estate, which was formalised in 1840. Pierre-Jean's holding, half of the original Léoville estate, was the start of Léoville-Las-Cases; Jeanne, who owned just a quarter of the old estate had a daughter who married Baron Jean-Marie de Poyferré, and thus her vineyards were destined to become Léoville-Poyferré.
Although the estate bears the name of the Poyferré family to this day, it was
not in their ownership for any great length of time. Baron Jean-Marie's son made
some ill-judged investments, and as a consequence was forced to sell off many of
his assets in 1866, including Chateau
Léoville-Poyferré, in order to satisfy his creditors. The estate was purchased
by Baron d'Erlanger and Armand Lalande. The Lalande family, and later through
marriage also the Lawson family, held tenure here until World War I had passed.
Perhaps because of these recent events, or perhaps related to the economic
depression of the era, the family then sold the estate on to the Cuvelier
family. Surprisingly, although the Cuvelier family were already committed to
Bordeaux, having already purchased Chateau Le Crock and later
Camensac, they did not
choose to direct operations at their new acquisition themselves. Instead they
elected to employ Roger Delon, of the same Delon family that were
managing (eventually owning the property outright)
Chateau Léoville-Las-Cases, to manage the estate. Originally the arrangement
worked well, as quality at Léoville-Poyferré was high, but over the ensuing
decades the situation deteriorated. The wines of Chateau Léoville-Poyferré were,
for a long time, a sequence of sorry disappointments. During the 1960s and 1970s
the wines were charmless and ungiving, to the dismay of those who were aware of
Léoville-Poyferré's terroir and potential for producing perhaps one of the greatest red
wines of the Médoc, akin to Léoville-Las-Cases and
Léoville Barton. It was at this point, in 1978 to be precise, that
Léoville-Poyferré once again change hands, this time coming to an accountant by
the name of Didier Cuvelier.
Cuvelier had a good head when it came to Bordeaux; although not a winemaker,
he took appropriate advice, first from Professor Emile Peynaud, and later from
Michel Rolland. There was extensive investment, particularly in the vineyard.
Having been strong on Merlot, they were replanted with a focus on Cabernet
Sauvignon. In fact, the proportion of the latter variety more than doubled, from
30% to something in the order of 64%, the balance being 26% Merlot, 8% Petit
Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc, planted at a density of 8500 vines/ha. Despite
this the average age of the vines remained high at 35 years, perhaps as Moulin
Riche, once a cru bourgeois estate but since the 2003 vintage correctly regarded as Poyferré's second wine,
was incorporated into the Léoville-Poyferré vineyard. There was extensive
modernisation of the facilities too, the chai rebuilt in 1984 and then again in
1990, underground water storage installed in 1983, a tasting room and plenty of
new oak. With Didier Cuvelier at the helm, things at Léoville-Poyferré started to turn around. There were a number of favourable vintages during the
1980s, particularly 1982, 1983 and 1985, and there were some
lovely wines from Poyferré. During the 1990s, quality has truly been in the
ascendant, and it seems clear that Poyferré has begun to produce the standard of
wines of which it is capable.
The wines are fermented in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats of varying sizes, then macerated for up to three weeks, before selection is made. The grand vin is Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (20000 cases per annum), which goes into barrel where malolactic fermentation occurs. Typically the oak is now 80% new each year. The wine rejected from the grand vin is used for Chateau Moulin Riche (17000 cases per annum), the second wine. There is also a third wine, Pavillon des Connetables. But it is the grand vin that appeals to most, and it is a wine that has shown a dramatic improvement over the last two decades. It has gone from being a questionable purchase, to posing a serious threat to the Barton-Las-Cases domination of the old Léoville estate, and of St Julien. They have a distinct style, richer and more open, perhaps, although are still quite classically St Julien, quite classically Bordeaux. The 1996 perhaps marks a turning point, although by this time there had already been marked improvement. But from the mid-1990s Michel Rolland has been consulting here, and the wines show a defined fleshiness and seductive nature which they did not possess before. They deserve to be on the shopping list of any St Julien savant, especially those that would normally consider only Barton and Las-Cases. (15/1/03, updated 9/2/07)
Contact details:
Address: Chateau Léoville-Poyferré, 33250 St-Julien-Beychevelle
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 59 08 30
Fax +33 (0) 5 56 59 60 09
Internet:
www.leoville-poyferre.fr
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré - Tasting Notes
Click
to locate
stockists.
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 2007: A very flattering, rounded nose showing attractive clean fruit and some new oak.
A good density, greater than many of its peers in this vintage. More obvious forepalate concentration, and a nice creaminess in the midpalate. A
supple composition, well covered ripe tannins and balanced acidity. Very good
potential here. From my
2007 Bordeaux
en primeur assessment. 16-17+/20 (April 2008)
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 2006: This has some forceful, seemingly plump,
ripe, smoky fruit on the nose. It has depth. A moderate texture, attractive, a
touch light on texture although there is the barest hint of cream to it at the
edge. Soft, ripe tannins, attractive correct acidity. Nice, rather plump as the
nose suggested, nicely put together. It feels a bit soft and modern to me, but
may firm up and will please many I think. From my
2006 Bordeaux
assessment. 16-17/20 (April 2007)
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 2005: A great colour, and a wonderful purity
on the nose, with essence of dark summer berry fruits being the order of the
day, with a touch of white pepper. This has great depth and is clearly very
impressive. It has a ripe, balanced, rounded composition, it is very firmly
glued together, but has a sweet, harmonious character which is immediately
appealing. There are ripe, svelte tannins which show through only at the finish.
Very nicely judged extract. Very fine indeed. From my tasting of
2005 Bordeaux at two
years of age. 18+/20 (October 2007)
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 2003: Dark, exotic fruit nose. Damsons, with
a hint of blackcurrant. Ripe, balanced, seamless structure. It has a gentle
elegance, with creamy fruit and a peppery edge. Really gentle, fine tannins and
correct acidity. This is very good indeed. Certainly the equal of Léoville
Barton, if not slightly ahead. From my
2003 Bordeaux
assessment. 17+/20 (October 2005)
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 1999: An intense red-purple wine, like many in this flight.
Initially very closed on the nose, but opens up to reveal dense, ripe,
sweet fruit. An impressive presence on the palate, stuffed full of sweet
fruit. Good acidity. Slightly hard texture, but less prominent tannin
than some of the other wines. Five years in the cellar needed here. 16.5+/20 (January 2003)
Pavillon des Connetables (St Julien) 1999: This wine is giving
little away on the nose at the present. There is a
suggestion of some class, and this shows through on a
somewhat light palate. Sharp acidity and dry, spicy
tannins support a layer of blackcurrant and fruitcake
spice. Has some style. From a
Majestic press tasting.
15+/20 (November 2001)
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 1998: Another intense, red-purple wine. The nose doesn't give too
much - some sweet mineral-edged fruit. Quite classy. Bags of structure
on the palate. It's a massive, hard wine, with hidden fruit and plenty
of tannin. Moderate acidity. Five years in the cellar needed here. 16.5+/20 (January 2003)
Chateau Moulin-Riche (St Julien)
1998: Dense red-purple wine. Plentiful fruit on the nose, with a
raspberry, blackberry and sweet blackcurrant profile. Round, firm
structure, with good fruit and fresh, clean acidity. Still some spicy
tannins but drinkable now. It has balance. Overall this is a richer,
purer wine than the others in this flight. 15.5+/20 (January 2003)
Chateau Moulin-Riche (St Julien) 1997: A fairly dense red wine, demonstrating more maturity than the
other two in this flight. Quite classic and elegant on the nose -
violets and flower petals, black fruits and a touch of smoke. Some
fatness on the palate, with dense, sweet and smoky fruit. Good acidity.
The gentlest streak of tannins on the finish but overall ready,
approachable and very attractive. 15.5/20 (January 2003)
Chateau Moulin-Riche (St Julien) 1997: Good density of colour.
Closed down on the nose, with just a suggestion of some
stylish claretty fruit. Plummy, spiced black fruits on
entry, with a good texture. Nice tannic structure. From a
Majestic press tasting.
15.5/20 (November 2001)
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 1996: A dark red-purple wine. There are aromas of dense, sweet
blackcurrant fruit, cherries and minerals on the nose. The palate offers
plenty of sweetness and a full, rounded texture. There's a nice weight,
lots of fruit and ripe tannins in the finish. Good acidity. This is
nowhere near as hard and backward as when last tasted in April 2001, and
is clearly coming out of its shell. Nevertheless I would recommend
another two or three years before trying another. 18.5+/20 (January 2003)
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 1996: A great, deep purple
colour leads to a nose of cassis fruit, with a classic stony-mineral St Julien
edge appearing, not present on last tasting. A fruit-packed palate, with lovely
texture and impressive structure. Less austere than last time, but still a real
keeper. Expect to cellar for 10 years or more. From a tasting at
Edencroft. 18+/20 (February 2002)
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 1996:
A dense and dark wine. Powerful, dark blackcurrant fruit. Slightly hard
and austere. Similarly austere on the palate, with deep, rich fruit and
a good tannic backbone. A big yet balanced wine. Found hiding in a vertical tasting of Chateau Léoville-Barton.
18.5+/20 (April 2001)
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 1995: A red-purple wine. Classy, youthful, typical St Julien on the
nose. Sweet blackcurrant fruit. Closes down in the glass after a little
while. Fat and rounded texture on the palate. Plenty of fruit. Lots of
tannin on the finish, but acidity on the low side. This one needs two or three
years more in the cellar. 17.5+/20 (January 2003)
Chateau
Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 1994: Lovely colour, still with depth, good
intensity at the rim, and a hue that suggests youthfulness. And a classic nose,
too. Stylish, very typical, mineral fruit, with some exotic soy sauce and
liquorice notes. Full, structured, very dry, with grippy tannins still showing
through the midpalate, good depth and texture, and more than a little extract
here. Smoky, stony fruit. Short finish with some furry tannins. Just at the
stage I like claret - still with fruit, but balanced, with largely integrated
tannins, and showing interest and typicity. And still probably on the way up. At
best over the next 5-8 years. 17.5+/20 (February 2005)
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 1985: A good colour, although also demonstrating some maturity. The
nose is much more vibrant and typical than those of the preceding two
wines. It is dense, with plenty of blackcurrant fruits, minerals and
rose petals. Textbook St Julien. Great balance and fluidity on the
palate, the hallmark for me of the 1985 vintage. Correct, integrated
tannins and acidity. Overall supple, attractive and very approachable.
Wonderful stuff. 18.5/20 (January 2003)
Chateau
Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 1983: Moderately deep hue.
Reserved, stylish nose, a touch floral, with red fruit notes. Textured palate, a
little creamy, although it doesn't quite have the desired body through the
midpalate. Integrated tannins and good flavour though. A little length. Good,
although this chateau has turned out much better wines in more recent vintages.
Ready now. From a Bordeaux 1983
tasting. 16/20 (February 2005)
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 1983: A mature colour, but still with bright red nuances. Sweet,
ripe but gamey fruit on the nose. This is followed by a lovely presence
on the palate. A meaty, mouthfilling weight, with plenty of sweet fruit.
A low level of ripe tannins provide some backbone, and there's correct
acidity. This is a more brawny, slightly harder wine, and lacks the
elegance of some other vintages. Nevertheless, there is quality
here. 17/20 (January 2003)
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 1982: Of the three wines here this has the greatest depth of colour,
yet also demonstrates the most evidence of maturity. Obvious style on
the nose, the dense, pure fruit joined by complex mineral and meaty
aromas. The palate has richness, but also balance and elegance. There's
plenty of everything - it still has lots of fruit, and there are still
some tannins on the endpalate and finish. Good acidity too. Pleasing length.
18.5/20 (January 2003)
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 1961: A moderately deep colour
here, a little murky perhaps, but an attractive appearance all the same. A
sweet, meaty, roasted nose, with a glorious perfumed character. It has a mineral
freshness, edged with a little toffee and cloves. Finely textured on the palate,
sweet and rounded, quite complete, a touch fleshy and grippy, this is really
admirable. A little freshness too. Very good indeed. From a
1961 Bordeaux tasting. 17/20
(June 2007)
Chateau Le Crock (St Estèphe) 1996:
Le Crock is another Cru Bourgeois estate owned by
the Cuvelier family. Dark red-purple, less intense in colour than the
following two wines. Initially quite green and stalky on the nose,
although this soon blows off, leaving pleasant fruit with a slightly
hard, metallic edge. Overall it seems somewhat rustic. There's good
plump fruit on the palate, and a spicy tannic backbone which shows
particularly on the finish. Somewhat incongruous alcohol on the finish
also. No finesse here but pleasant enough. 15+/20 (January 2003)
Home - Site index - Site updated October 07, 2008 - © The Winedoctor 2000 - 2008 - Wine Scores - RSS
