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Chateau Léoville-Poyferré
One of the three Léoville estates, Poyferré and its peers Barton and Las-Cases have their origins in the grand Léoville estate that dominated St Julien in the 17th and 18th Centuries. I have already given an account of the original Léoville estate's ancient history in my profile of Léoville-Las-Cases, and so here I deal only with the division of the property which led to the creation of the three vineyards we know today. The groundwork for the split was laid in 1769, when proprietor Alexandre de Gascq died without an obvious heir, as a consequence the estate coming to four family members, the Marquis de Las-Cases-Beauvoir, his brother and two sisters. Before the end of the century, however, the Revolution forced the Marquis to flee France, and as a result the estate was sequestered and eligible for sale as a national asset. Staving off this eventuality, the family elected to break up the estate and sell it piecemeal, and so initially only one quarter was sold off, that which belonged to the Marquis in exile. This section was the origin of Léoville-Barton. The remaining three quarters remained in the family, and this was the state of affairs when the Marquis was succeeded in 1815 by his son, Pierre-Jean, the Maréchal de Camps under Napoleon. Pierre-Jean inherited most of what remained of the estate from his elders, with a smaller stake coming to his sister, Jeanne. This was effectively the second division of the estate, which was formalised in 1840. Pierre-Jean's holding, half of the original Léoville estate, was the start of Léoville-Las-Cases; Jeanne, who owned just a quarter of the old estate had a daughter who married Baron Jean-Marie de Poyferré, and thus her vineyards were destined to become Léoville-Poyferré.
Although the estate bears the name of the Poyferré family to this day, it was not in their ownership for any great length of time. Nevertheless their tenure was a significant one; it was under the direction of the Poyferré family that the estate was ranked as a deuxième cru in the 1855 classification, a coup matched by both the Barton and Las-Cases estates. It was also around this time, however, that oidium began to ravage the region and it was this, perhaps compounded by financial difficulties consequent upon some ill-judged investments, that prompted Baron Jean-Marie's son to sell off many of his assets. In 1865 Chateau Léoville-Poyferré was purchased by Baron d'Erlanger and Armand Lalande, bankers and local courtiers. The Lalande family, and later through marriage also the Lawton family, held tenure here until World War I had passed. Perhaps prompted by these terrible events, compounded by the economic depression of the era and the ravaging of the vineyard by phylloxera and mildew at the end of the 19th Century, the Lawton family sold the estate on to the current owners, the Cuvelier family.
The Cuvelier family were already well known in Bordeaux as négociants, the Maison de Négoce de Vins Henri Cuvelier having been established in Haubourdin in 1804. It was not until the early 20th century, however, that Paul and Albert Cuvelier, Henri's descendents, began to acquire vineyards in the region. They began in 1903 with Chateau Le Crock and later on in 1913 with Camensac, although their ownership of the latter was short-lived. There followed a hiatus during World War I, during which Paul Cuvelier and his nephews spent much time in Argentina, a repose which seems significant in view of the family's purchase, admittedly more than 80 years later, of vineyards in that country.
The Cuvelier Renaissance
The acquisition of Léoville-Poyferré was without doubt the jewel in the Cuvelier crown. Nevertheless they did not choose to direct operations at their new acquisition themselves, instead electing to employ Roger Delon, of the same Delon family that was managing (eventually owning the property outright) neighbouring Léoville-Las-Cases, to run the estate. Originally the arrangement worked well, as quality at Léoville-Poyferré was high, but over the ensuing decades the situation deteriorated. Under Max Cuvelier, the next generation, there was no significant improvement. The wines of Chateau Léoville-Poyferré were, for a long time, a sequence of sorry disappointments. During the 1960s and 1970s the wines were charmless and ungiving, to the dismay of those who were aware of Léoville-Poyferré's history and fine terroir, all of which suggested it had the potential to produce perhaps one of the greatest red wines of the Médoc, akin to Léoville-Las-Cases and Léoville Barton. But as the saying goes, the night is darkest just before the dawn; in 1979 the baton was passed to Max's son, Didier Cuvelier. Trained as an accountant, first sight of Didier might not have inspired much hope, but his arrival in fact marked the beginning of the Poyferré renaissance which has continued through into the early years of the 21st century.
Cuvelier
had a good head when it came to Bordeaux; although not a winemaker,
he took appropriate advice, first from Professor Emile Peynaud, and later from
Michel Rolland. There was extensive investment, particularly in the vineyard,
with increased planting of Cabernet Sauvignon being one important change. There was extensive
modernisation of the facilities too, the chai being rebuilt in 1984 and
then again in 1990, underground water storage installed in 1983, a tasting room
and plenty of new wood in the cellars; recent vintages have seen as much as 75%
new oak. With Didier Cuvelier at the helm, things at Léoville-Poyferré started
to turn around. There were a number of favourable vintages during the 1980s,
particularly 1982, 1983 and 1985, and there were some lovely wines bearing the Poyferré
label. During the 1990s and early years of the 21st century quality has truly been in the
ascendant, and it seems clear that Poyferré is again producing the standard of wines of which it
has always been capable.
The Vineyard
Having previously been strong on Merlot, under the direction of Didier Cuvelier many of the vineyards were replanted, now with a focus on Cabernet Sauvignon. In fact, the proportion of the latter variety more than doubled, from 30% to its current figure of 65% (35 hectares), the balance being 25% Merlot (17 hectares), 8% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc (together 11 hectares), planted at a density of 8500 vines/ha. Along with the program of planting the vineyard expanded, from just 48 hectares in 1979 to its current 80 hectares, matching the area committed to the vine during the Belle Epoque, before the 20th century decline took hold.
In the vineyard the vines are encouraged to root deeply by an annual working over of the soil to a depth of 50 cm in alternate rows. The vineyard work is largely manual, with early removal of unnecessary shoots, control of yields by debudding and green harvesting, leaf stripping to improve aeration and fruit exposure, hand-pruning and hand-harvesting. Much of the work is led personally by viticultural manager Bruno Clenet, who keeps 30 vines in each plot for his own experimentation, and so that he can learn how the different plots behave. The result of all this work is a yield typically in the order of 45-50 hl/ha.
Before the harvest begins Didier Cuvelier, Michel Rolland, Bruno Clenet, oenologist Isabelle Davin and maître de chai Didier Thomann walk and taste in the vineyards in order to plan the picking. The process can be repeated on a weekly basis until the team decide the that the time is right for the harvest to begin. Once underway, the fruit is picked into small crates for transport to the chai where they are sorted mechanically and by hand twice over, before pressing and fermentation.
Vinification and Wines
The wines are fermented in the 35 temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats of
varying sizes, then macerated for three to four weeks, before selection is made. The grand vin is Chateau Léoville-Poyferré
(20000 cases per annum), which goes into barrel where malolactic fermentation
occurs. Typically the oak is now 75% new each year. Wines produced from the
plots once belonging to the cru bourgeois estate Chateau Moulin Riche (17000 cases
per annum), which was incorporated into the Léoville-Poyferré vineyard in the
early 20th Century, are vinified completely in cuve, before transfer into
a mix of new and one-year-old barrels.
The issue of a second wine at Léoville-Poyferré is a slightly complicated one, up until the 2001 vintage this being a role filled by Pavillon des Connetables. With the absorption of Moulin Riche into the vineyard, however, this label was used as the Poyferré second wine, if I understand correctly, in the 2002 and 2003 vintages. Since then Moulin Riche seems to have regained its separate identity somewhat, and from the 2004 vintage the new second label - which takes wine from vats felt to be of insufficient quality for either Léoville-Poyferré or Moulin Riche - is Pavillon de Poyferré, raised in one- and two-year-old barrels. All the wines see 18 to 20 months in oak, with racking every three months and an eventual fining with egg whites before bottling.
Thankfully putting such label confusion aside, it is the grand vin Léoville-Poyferré that appeals to most here, and it is a wine that has shown a dramatic improvement over the last two decades. They have a distinct style, in earlier vintages richer and more open, perhaps, although still quite classically St Julien, quite classically Bordeaux, but in more recent vintages also very structured, serious, joyous and yet cerebral too. The 1996 perhaps marks a turning point, the first tangible evidence of a true renaissance, although by this time there had already been marked improvement. Today the wines show a defined fleshiness and seductive nature which they did not possess before, a feature surely attributable to the dedication and commitment of Didier Cuvelier and his team, if not the continued consultation from Michel Rolland. Léoville-Poyferré is no longer the black sheep of the Léoville family; this estate now plays on an equal footing with Léoville-Barton; a different style, of course, Barton being the more reserved, harder, more backward style early on, a contrast to Poyferré's slightly more voluptuous nature, but little different in terms of absolute quality. These wines deserve to be on the shopping list of any St Julien savant. (15/1/03, updated 9/2/07, 17/6/09)
Contact details:
Address: Chateau Léoville-Poyferré, 33250 St-Julien-Beychevelle
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 59 08 30
Fax +33 (0) 5 56 59 60 09
Internet:
www.leoville-poyferre.fr
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré - Tasting Notes
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Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 2008:
Dense fruit here, more meaty in style than the Barton equivalent. Fresh and
supple on the palate, creamy, with black cherry character. Dense and rich, but
with good tannin. Well balanced acids, substantial, very concentrated, with a
meaty richness. It shows but fruit than the Barton, but it has the same backward
structure, and lots of potential. From my
2008 Bordeaux
primeur assessment. 17.5-18.5+/20 (April 2009)
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 2007: A very flattering, rounded nose showing attractive clean fruit and some new oak.
A good density, greater than many of its peers in this vintage. More obvious forepalate concentration, and a nice creaminess in the midpalate. A
supple composition, well covered ripe tannins and balanced acidity. Very good
potential here. From my
2007 Bordeaux
en primeur assessment. 16-17+/20 (April 2008)
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 2006: This has a lovely character on the nose, beautifully sweet fruit, in a very
different fashion to the corresponding Barton, with a much more open, accessible
style. The fruit is dense though, and on the palate it is supple, with ripe
tannins showing quite dry through the midpalate, and with nice acidity too.
This is good. From a tasting of
2006 Bordeaux
at two years of age. 17+/20 (October 2008)
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 2006: This has some forceful, seemingly plump,
ripe, smoky fruit on the nose. It has depth. A moderate texture, attractive, a
touch light on texture although there is the barest hint of cream to it at the
edge. Soft, ripe tannins, attractive correct acidity. Nice, rather plump as the
nose suggested, nicely put together. It feels a bit soft and modern to me, but
may firm up and will please many I think. From my
2006 Bordeaux
assessment. 16-17/20 (April 2007)
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 2005: A great colour, and a wonderful purity
on the nose, with essence of dark summer berry fruits being the order of the
day, with a touch of white pepper. This has great depth and is clearly very
impressive. It has a ripe, balanced, rounded composition, it is very firmly
glued together, but has a sweet, harmonious character which is immediately
appealing. There are ripe, svelte tannins which show through only at the finish.
Very nicely judged extract. Very fine indeed. From my tasting of
2005 Bordeaux at two
years of age. 18+/20 (October 2007)
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 2004:
Darker in character, and more exotic than the Léoville-Barton on the nose,
although it still seems quite tightly packed together, with restrained and dark fruit
closely intertwined with smoky, exotic aromas. It starts off very gentle and
composed on the palate, before opening out to show some ripe peppery tannins,
firm acidity and a nice, vinous style. This has good substance, plenty of grip
in the mouth, and a firm, meaty finish. This is very nicely held together, and
overall is very good indeed. From a
2004 Bordeaux tasting
at four years of age. 17.5+/20 (November 2008)
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 2003: Dark, exotic fruit nose. Damsons, with
a hint of blackcurrant. Ripe, balanced, seamless structure. It has a gentle
elegance, with creamy fruit and a peppery edge. Really gentle, fine tannins and
correct acidity. This is very good indeed. Certainly the equal of Léoville
Barton, if not slightly ahead. From my
2003 Bordeaux
assessment. 17+/20 (October 2005)
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 1999: An intense red-purple wine, like many in this flight.
Initially very closed on the nose, but opens up to reveal dense, ripe,
sweet fruit. An impressive presence on the palate, stuffed full of sweet
fruit. Good acidity. Slightly hard texture, but less prominent tannin
than some of the other wines. Five years in the cellar needed here. 16.5+/20 (January 2003)
Pavillon des Connetables (St Julien) 1999: This wine is giving
little away on the nose at the present. There is a
suggestion of some class, and this shows through on a
somewhat light palate. Sharp acidity and dry, spicy
tannins support a layer of blackcurrant and fruitcake
spice. Has some style. From a
Majestic press tasting.
15+/20 (November 2001)
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 1998: Another intense, red-purple wine. The nose doesn't give too
much - some sweet mineral-edged fruit. Quite classy. Bags of structure
on the palate. It's a massive, hard wine, with hidden fruit and plenty
of tannin. Moderate acidity. Five years in the cellar needed here. 16.5+/20 (January 2003)
Chateau Moulin-Riche (St Julien)
1998: Dense red-purple wine. Plentiful fruit on the nose, with a
raspberry, blackberry and sweet blackcurrant profile. Round, firm
structure, with good fruit and fresh, clean acidity. Still some spicy
tannins but drinkable now. It has balance. Overall this is a richer,
purer wine than the others in this flight. 15.5+/20 (January 2003)
Chateau Moulin-Riche (St Julien) 1997: A fairly dense red wine, demonstrating more maturity than the
other two in this flight. Quite classic and elegant on the nose -
violets and flower petals, black fruits and a touch of smoke. Some
fatness on the palate, with dense, sweet and smoky fruit. Good acidity.
The gentlest streak of tannins on the finish but overall ready,
approachable and very attractive. 15.5/20 (January 2003)
Chateau Moulin-Riche (St Julien) 1997: Good density of colour.
Closed down on the nose, with just a suggestion of some
stylish claretty fruit. Plummy, spiced black fruits on
entry, with a good texture. Nice tannic structure. From a
Majestic press tasting.
15.5/20 (November 2001)
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 1996: A dark red-purple wine. There are aromas of dense, sweet
blackcurrant fruit, cherries and minerals on the nose. The palate offers
plenty of sweetness and a full, rounded texture. There's a nice weight,
lots of fruit and ripe tannins in the finish. Good acidity. This is
nowhere near as hard and backward as when last tasted in April 2001, and
is clearly coming out of its shell. Nevertheless I would recommend
another two or three years before trying another. 18.5+/20 (January 2003)
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 1996: A great, deep purple
colour leads to a nose of cassis fruit, with a classic stony-mineral St Julien
edge appearing, not present on last tasting. A fruit-packed palate, with lovely
texture and impressive structure. Less austere than last time, but still a real
keeper. Expect to cellar for 10 years or more. From a tasting at
Edencroft. 18+/20 (February 2002)
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 1996:
A dense and dark wine. Powerful, dark blackcurrant fruit. Slightly hard
and austere. Similarly austere on the palate, with deep, rich fruit and
a good tannic backbone. A big yet balanced wine. Found hiding in a vertical tasting of Chateau Léoville-Barton.
18.5+/20 (April 2001)
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 1995: A red-purple wine. Classy, youthful, typical St Julien on the
nose. Sweet blackcurrant fruit. Closes down in the glass after a little
while. Fat and rounded texture on the palate. Plenty of fruit. Lots of
tannin on the finish, but acidity on the low side. This one needs two or three
years more in the cellar. 17.5+/20 (January 2003)
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 1994: Lovely colour, still with depth, good
intensity at the rim, and a hue that suggests youthfulness. And a classic nose,
too. Stylish, very typical, mineral fruit, with some exotic soy sauce and
liquorice notes. Full, structured, very dry, with grippy tannins still showing
through the midpalate, good depth and texture, and more than a little extract
here. Smoky, stony fruit. Short finish with some furry tannins. Just at the
stage I like claret - still with fruit, but balanced, with largely integrated
tannins, and showing interest and typicity. And still probably on the way up. At
best over the next 5-8 years. 17.5+/20 (February 2005)
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 1985: A good colour, although also demonstrating some maturity. The
nose is much more vibrant and typical than those of the preceding two
wines. It is dense, with plenty of blackcurrant fruits, minerals and
rose petals. Textbook St Julien. Great balance and fluidity on the
palate, the hallmark for me of the 1985 vintage. Correct, integrated
tannins and acidity. Overall supple, attractive and very approachable.
Wonderful stuff. 18.5/20 (January 2003)
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 1983: Moderately deep hue.
Reserved, stylish nose, a touch floral, with red fruit notes. Textured palate, a
little creamy, although it doesn't quite have the desired body through the
midpalate. Integrated tannins and good flavour though. A little length. Good,
although this chateau has turned out much better wines in more recent vintages.
Ready now. From a Bordeaux 1983
tasting. 16/20 (February 2005)
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 1983: A mature colour, but still with bright red nuances. Sweet,
ripe but gamey fruit on the nose. This is followed by a lovely presence
on the palate. A meaty, mouthfilling weight, with plenty of sweet fruit.
A low level of ripe tannins provide some backbone, and there's correct
acidity. This is a more brawny, slightly harder wine, and lacks the
elegance of some other vintages. Nevertheless, there is quality
here. 17/20 (January 2003)
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 1982: Of the three wines here this has the greatest depth of colour,
yet also demonstrates the most evidence of maturity. Obvious style on
the nose, the dense, pure fruit joined by complex mineral and meaty
aromas. The palate has richness, but also balance and elegance. There's
plenty of everything - it still has lots of fruit, and there are still
some tannins on the endpalate and finish. Good acidity too. Pleasing length.
18.5/20 (January 2003)
Chateau Léoville-Poyferré (St Julien) 1961: A moderately deep colour
here, a little murky perhaps, but an attractive appearance all the same. A
sweet, meaty, roasted nose, with a glorious perfumed character. It has a mineral
freshness, edged with a little toffee and cloves. Finely textured on the palate,
sweet and rounded, quite complete, a touch fleshy and grippy, this is really
admirable. A little freshness too. Very good indeed. From a
1961 Bordeaux tasting. 17/20
(June 2007)
Chateau Le Crock (St Estèphe) 1996:
Le Crock is another Cru Bourgeois estate owned by
the Cuvelier family. Dark red-purple, less intense in colour than the
following two wines. Initially quite green and stalky on the nose,
although this soon blows off, leaving pleasant fruit with a slightly
hard, metallic edge. Overall it seems somewhat rustic. There's good
plump fruit on the palate, and a spicy tannic backbone which shows
particularly on the finish. Somewhat incongruous alcohol on the finish
also. No finesse here but pleasant enough. 15+/20 (January 2003)
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