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Lanson

The firm that was to become the Lanson Champagne house was established in 1760. The business was led by François Delamotte, who began making and selling Champagne at that time. In 1828, however, his son-in-law entered the business. He was Jean-Baptiste Lanson, and when Delamotte died in 1837 the name of the business was changed to Veuve Delamotte-Barrachin. More of the Lanson family entered the business, and upon the death of Delamotte's widow in 1856 the name was changed to Lanson Père & Fils.

Champagne Lanson Fast forward a century and the family firm comes under the control of the Gardinier Group in 1980, following their purchase of the shares held by Ricard, manufacturer of Pastis. The business than changed hands again, being sold to the BSN Group in 1983, and then to the luxury products group LVMH in 1990. Within four months the house had been sold on to Marne et Champagne (which then traded as Lanson International), having been stripped of its vineyards. What the Mora family, who headed up Lanson International, bought was buildings, Champagne stocks and a winemaker. This obviously raised concerns regarding the likely quality of Lanson Champagne, fears which in my opinion were not realised. This is despite the firm losing its vineyards for the sake, I suspect, of churning out even greater quantities of non vintage Moët & Chandon. Subsequent vintages of Lanson remain of high quality - 1995 and 1996 in particular - although the latter vintage at present demands time in the cellar. Despite this success, however, there was still trouble in the back room. In 2004 the Mora family were forced to sell off a 44% stake to French bank Caisse Nationale des Caisses d'Epargne due to financial difficulties, but in 2005 this stake was once again put up for sale. Things looked gloomy, as no buyer was immediately apparent, and serious financial difficulties seemed very real as the market - in the UK at least - saw two waves of Lanson Black Label NV on sale at rock-bottom prices. Eventually a buyer did creep from the woodwork; in January 2006, Champagne Boizel (headed up by Bruno Paillard) struck a deal with the two main shareholders, the Mora family and Caisse Nationale des Caisses d'Epargne, taking control of Lanson for the princely sum of 122 million Euros. This seems like peanuts compared to the Taittinger deal, struck at about the same time, but Boizel also claimed to be taking on a whopping 400 million Euros of Lanson debt.

For many people, what makes the Lanson style a little difficult to understand is the uncommon practice of blocking the malolactic fermentation, which thus prevents the conversion of malic acid to softer lactic acid (see my glossary entry on malolactic fermentation for more information). The end result is wine which needs time in order to shed its acidic armour and show what yeasty richness and class it has. This is something all critics would do well to remember before dismissing these wines. This goes for both the Black Label NV Brut Champagne, which is usually 50% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Meunier, as well as the vintage Gold Label, which sees roughly equal proportions of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, although the exact quantities vary according to the vintage. These are the first two members of the Cornerstone range, the other two being the Rosé and demi-sec Ivory Label cuvées. Top of the class is the Noble Cuvée, sourced only from Grand Cru vineyards, which is a reserve blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir for the standard blend, although there is also a Noble Cuvée Blanc de Blancs. (9/3/04, updated 9/6/06)

Contact details:
Address: 12 boulevard Lundy, 51100 Reims
Telephone: +33 (0) 3 26 78 50 50
Fax: +33 (0) 3 26 78 50 99
Internet: www.lanson.fr

Lanson - Tasting Notes

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1998

Lanson Gold Label Brut 1998: A very lean character here, minerally and stony in style. The palate is very typical of Lanson, showing a huge core of acidity cutting through all characteristics of the palate. Underneath, however, there is substance. A nicely rounded mousse. This is quite reticent and unapproachable now, but should be very good indeed with time. From the 2008 annual Champagne tasting. 16.5+/20 (March 2008)

1997

Lanson Gold Label Brut 1997: Not a very expressive nose here, rather green, but closed down. Very firm acidity on the palate, a huge structure, very nicely set up for the cellar. Almost painful. Firm mousse, brutally youthful. This needs years. From the 2007 Champagne Information Bureau Tasting. 17+/20 (March 2007)

1996

Lanson Gold Label Brut 1996: The first bottle was corked, which was disappointing. The second, fortunately, was sound. A soft, golden hue with a fine bead, very bright on the nose, with some evolving deep and brioche-like aromas alongside more herbal freshness. Fine and full on the palate, with a more creamy presence than I recall from my CIB tasting last year, although there is still very firm acidity; this remains very youthful, showing a lot of naked structure, and still needs many years. But I have bumped the score up a not inconsiderable notch. From a 1996 Champagne tasting. 17.5+/20 (August 2007)

Lanson Gold Label Brut 1996: Expressive, rather surprising nose, demonstrating some peachy stone fruit that is atypical for Lanson. Again, does this represent recent disgorgement? The texture is rounding out a little, but overall it is still terribly tight, with very firm acidity. Lovely fresh mousse though. This needs years. From the annual Champagne Information Bureau Tasting. 16.5+/20 (March 2006)

Lanson Gold Label Brut 1996: A pale lemon hue. A stylish nose, with very pure lemon edged fruit, with little nuances of nut and marzipan, opening out to reveal smoky, mineral notes. A very youthful palate, dominated by acidic fruit on entry, but with a fair amount of richness and fatness poking through towards the endpalate. Rounded and creamy if held in the mouth, with a fresh, elegant mousse as well. More green apple and citrus fruit acidity evident on the finish. There is fine quality here. Needs four to eight years in the cellar. 17.5+/20 (March 2004)

1995

Lanson Gold Label Brut 1995: Another pale, lemon-straw, but slightly golden colour with a sparse, fine bead. The nose here is marked by cinder toffee and praline, with a little mushroom and seashell minerality and a nuance of autolysis. The palate is really quite elegant, fresh but edged with toffee, praline and toast, another forcefully flavoured wine with lots of complex roasted fruits coming in through the midpalate, and also a slightly confected edge here. Appealing though, quite typical firm acidity, still lots of potential for the cellar here. Very enjoyable. From a 1995 Champagne tasting. 17-17.5+/20 (August 2007)

Lanson Gold Label Brut 1995: A mid-gold colour, and a fine but sparse bead. A nose of autolytic yeast derived aromas, with rich, nutty notes. The palate has richness to match the nose, with fine, elegant acidity, a creamy texture, and a firm, succulent mousse. Lemon and nut flavours. Delicious wine, with an almost opulent creaminess, which is just about arriving at its drinking window. 17/20 (March 2004)

1994

Lanson Gold Label Brut 1994: Yeasty and biscuity on the nose, with plenty of fruit. Fantastic depth of flavour on the palate, a creamy note to the texture, with some nutty complexity to the flavour. Rich, with balanced acidity. From an Oddbins tasting. 16.5+/20 (November 2001)

1989

Lanson Gold Label Brut 1989: A moderate golden hue. Unsurprisingly a tight, sparse bead. Pretty well locked down on the nose at first - served just a little too cold. As it warms it offers up nutty, marzipan aromas, but still cut through with the trademark Lanson note of acidic green apples. A fresh, vigorous mousse on the palate. Creamy, with nutty flavours. Mature, slightly biscuity, with a good mouthfeel. Brilliantly fresh for its age. 17/20 (March 2004)

Lanson Gold Label Brut 1989: A deep and rich golden hue, with a wonderful bead. Good mature aromas, almond nuts, coffee, toasted brioche, a suggestion of oxidation. Good weight and good flavour on the palate, creamy richness sitting very well with a fine, gentle mousse, which creams up nicely on the finish. Coffee and almond flavours. 17/20 (April 2002)

Lanson Gold Label Brut 1989: A moderately deep golden wine. The nose is serious, rich and yeasty, with almond marzipan overtones. A superbly fresh and somewhat obvious mousse. The palate has an excellent combination of acidity and a creamy, yeasty richness, leading into a good length. 17/20 (January 2001)

Lanson Gold Label Brut 1989: An overpowering yeasty and nutty nose. On the palate it is biscuity, yeasty, with pleasant citrus-lemon acidity. Quite dry. Good length. This is one of many unfortunately brief notes from a 1989 Champagne tasting. 16/20 (June 2000)

Lanson Noble Cuvée 1989: Surprisingly fresh on the nose, with just a buttery edge to the lemon-fresh fruit. A superb palate, again amazingly fresh, with apple and lemon flavours predominating, but with a honeyed, mealy richness in the background. There's just a slight creamy edge to the texture. I feel this wine has the potential to one day be a great Champagne, and I would continue to cellar for another five years at least. From an Oddbins tasting. 18/20 (November 2001)

1983

Lanson Brut 1983: I can't call this 'Gold Label' because back in the early 1980s the labels were red! A good colour that doesn't cause any great concern. Still quite a good bead. The nose is bready, doughy, with some typical green apple aromas from blocked malolactic fermentation which give a big clue as to the identity of the producer. There's also some evidence of oxidation on the nose, which is matched on the palate, which has a touch of sweetness. Still has good acidity and is certainly drinkable. From a 1983 vintage twenty years on blind tasting. 15.5/20 (April 2003)

Non-Vintage

There follows a wealth of tasting notes on the non-vintage Black Label cuvée, which has acted like a house fizz for me from time to time. Given an appropriate length of time in the cellar - perhaps three to five years - it drinks very well. Tasting notes are ordered by date of tasting, most recent first. I have tried in each case to indicate whether it is a tasting of a new release, or of a wine I have cellared.

Lanson Black Label Brut NV: Current release. Iodine and seaweed on the nose again, a very firm and youthful style. The palate has bright acidity but it is more flashy in the midpalate, where it shows more rounded creaminess and a soft mousse. Lots of promise here. It has the firm acidity of Lanson, but also a touch more softness than I would normally expect. Does this reflect new ownership, or the base vintage? From the 2008 annual Champagne tasting. 16+/20 (March 2008)

Lanson Black Label Brut NV: Purchased Autumn 2005. It has only been about six months since I last took a look at this wine. Tonight I didn't pay great attention to it as it was a mere prelude to dinner with guests. Nevertheless, it is developing nicely, with some good maturity showing through towards the end of the palate. Still a lively bead and plentiful mousse, though, although it is all a touch more harmonious than I seem to recall from my last tasting. Really very good indeed, still clearly on the way up, and although very drinkable now I would like to see what another six months does. A 2007 Christmas wine. 16.5+/20 (December 2007)

Lanson Black Label Brut NV: Purchased Autumn 2005. A clean, lemon-golden hue. Very fine, tiny bead. Lemony, nutty, fresh, quite fine, moving ever more towards a mature style, as indicated by fleeting nuances of mushroom, nut oil and creamy coffee. Very nice indeed on the palate, which has a full, creamy style cut through by wonderfully fresh acidity and a fine, pervasive and persistent, well formed, gently prickling mousse. Lovely depth on the finish. Overall this is very good indeed, and keeps getting better. I think I still have a case to work through. 16.5+/20 (May 2007)

Lanson Black Label Brut NV: Purchased Autumn 2005. Another bottle of this bulk purchase - it has been fascinating to watch the minute developments with every tasting. A pale straw gold with a minimal bead, but still a moderate size. It has depth, and notes of lovely, smoky, minerally, crunchy oat biscuit. Freshness in abundance. There is a little appealing biscuity apple fruit apparent at first, belying the wines Pinot heritage, then more depth, and a creamy base, with citrus fruit swirled in. A full creamy mousse gives a hedonistic, full-on creamy-cappuccino finish. Slightly brutal on the finish, showing this will yet improve, but this is certainly ready, and is even better for drinking than the last time just a few months ago. 16.5+/20 (March 2007)

Lanson Black Label Brut NV: Current release. Bright, steely, herbal and mineral, and still showing just a little sulphur. Very sharp, laser like precision, well defined palate. Firm, lovely mousse coating it all though. Another typically sharp non-vintage style from this house. Has good potential for the cellar. From the 2007 Champagne Information Bureau Tasting. 16+/20 (March 2007)

Lanson Black Label Brut NV: Purchased Autumn 2005. The first bottle was corked. The second has a lovely, hazy, pale straw colour, with a moderate bead. On the nose there are pleasing, forward notes of honey and straw notes, and little hints of richness. Alongside the full and fresh mousse there is plenty of interest, with mineral and seashell tones alongside more exuberant peachy notes, with an unusual slightly sandy-salty feel, wrapped up in an impressive, vinous mouhfeel. This wine doesn't have the dominating malic acidity that occurs in young Lanson BL although only cellared for just under a year. This delightfully fresh, cleansing, well defined wine is maturing nicely. It is ready to drink now, but should improve over next 3-5 years (if not more). 16+/20 (July 2006)

Lanson Rosé Label NV: Barely pink, and rather dirty on the nose, showing heavy-handed sulphur. Despite this the palate holds together well, has a creamy mousse and an attractive balance. There is firm acidity, and a decent red fruit character. Nevertheless, the nose has it. Not a great wine. From the annual Champagne Information Bureau Tasting. 14/20 (March 2006)

Lanson Ivory Label NV: Current release. Probably one of the more widely distributed cuvées here. Rather simple perfumed fruit on the nose. Full, creamy, sweet and slightly foamy mousse. This lacks character, but certainly has an approachable structure. Bitter finish. Not the best demi-sec here! From the annual Champagne Information Bureau Tasting. 13.5/20 (March 2006)

Lanson Black Label Brut NV: Purchased Autumn 2005; so this bottle fresh off the shelf! Lemon gold hue, with a fat, youthful bead. Fresh, acidic white fruits with plenty of bready, yeasty notes alongside a lemon streak; typically Lanson. Full palate, unintegrated, firm and full-bodied. It shows firm acidity, although somewhat less green than previous early tastings of the Black Label, but this is still very much an adolescent. Should be fine with 2-5 years in the cellar. 16+/20 (October 2005)

Lanson Black Label Brut NV: Purchased Summer 2003. The last bottle of a six-pack which I seem to have demolished in record time. This bottle showed best of the lot. Lovely colour, pale gold, but showing the barest hint of coppery onion skin. Fine, herbal, baked bread nose with a touch of honey and nut. Gorgeous, almost creamy aromas, if that's possible! Full, bright, delightful palate, showing great style but also with a creamy, nutty, coffee-edged richness. Great finesse here, balanced with fine acidity and a texture on the more hedonistic side for Lanson. I would have never thought it the NV if tasted blind. Delicious. 17/20 (April 2005)

Lanson Black Label Brut NV: Purchased Summer 2003. Elegant, pale, lemon-gold hue. Good, fine bead. The nose shows aromas of fresh, acidic green apples, reflecting the malic acid present in the wine, the result of blocking the malolactic fermentation which is the policy of this house. Also developing more secondary, nutty aromas. Very fresh on the palate. That green apple acidity shows first, with maturing coffee and nut nuances on the midpalate. Nice creamy edge to the mousse. With more aeration this shows some rich, bready, coffee toffee notes, which owe their presence to the maturity of this lovely wine. 16.5+/20 (March 2004)

Lanson Black Label Brut NV: Purchased Spring 2001. This wine still has a fine, pale, lemon-gold hue, with a fine bead. The elegance carries through onto the nose, which has some secondary nut and coffee characteristics alongside classic Lanson green apple aromas. The palate has great acidity, which carries emerging secondary coffee and nut characteristics from the midpalate through to the finish. Great pleasure comes from the creamy mousse. Finishes with some richness, displaying hints of more obvious maturity to come. A delicious non-vintage Champagne which often offers great value for money. From a tasting of aged non-vintage Champagne. 16+/20 (May 2003)

Lanson Black Label Brut NV: A tasting of the NV cuvée on the market at the time of writing. A lovely nose, crisp and fresh, with some yeasty fruit. Strong mousse on the palate, with the sharp, crisp acidity so typical of Lanson. Medium bodied with a good depth of flavour. From an Oddbins tasting. 15.5/20 (November 2001)

Lanson Black Label Brut NV: Purchased Summer 1999. Two bottles consumed within a few weeks of each other. The first has a delightful lemon-gold colour, and a plentiful bead. A lovely fresh, lemony, mineral nose. The palate is clean, with revitalising acidity and some complex biscuit and bread nuances. Delicious stuff. The note for my next bottle also describes a lemon-gold hue, moderately fine bead. Herbaceous nose, with citrus and peach fruit, background toasty brioche. On the palate a somewhat over obvious mousse although this settles with time. Lovely creamy texture, superb balancing streak of acidity, more citrus fruit, again a hint of ripe peach, and a hint of marzipan nuttiness. Delightful finish, with a savoury note that makes it difficult to put the glass down. Suggestive of some development since last tasted. The second note is from an English sparkling wine and Champagne tasting. 16.5/20 (August 2000)