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Chateau La Lagune
Although most of those estates ranked in the 1855 classification lie within the famous communes of St Estèphe, St Julien, Pauillac and Margaux, there are five (discounting the obvious exception of Haut-Brion) that do not. Perhaps most notable of these is La Lagune, the highest ranked of the handful, and the southernmost classed growth estate of all the Médoc. Driving north from Bordeaux through the Médoc, along the D2, La Lagune is the first estate that you meet, and for this reason it is sometimes light-heartedly referred to as the premier grand cru of the region. Neither this estate's location nor its epithet should, however, distract Bordeaux savants from the true worth of this estate; here is a very good source of wines indeed.
The
history of La Lagune, once known as Grand La Lagune, begins in at least the 17th
Century. The origins of the name are uncertain; a common suggestion is that it
is derived from a nearby lagoon (lagune in French) although there is no
evidence that such a body of water ever existed anywhere near
the chateau, and so the name remains a mystery. The earliest documented proprietors of the estate are the Seguineau
family, who were instrumental in establishing La Lagune's early reputation. It
was during their tenure that vineyards were established, and they were also
responsible for the construction of the chateau at La Lagune, a rather
understated single-storey affair in a chartreuse style, in 1715. There
was active viticulture and the consequent sale of wine as early as 1724, and probably for years
before that, although it was many years before the chateau developed the favourable reputation that it enjoys today. The Seguineau family maintained
control of La Lagune during the 18th Century, as the estate survived the
Revolution intact, no doubt in part because they were not of great nobility, but also
because the land was in the shared ownership of many different family members.
In 1819, however, La Lagune was acquired by Jouffrey Piston, and under his
direction the wine's reputation became firmly established; it was thanks to his efforts
that, as mentioned above, the estate was ranked as a troisième cru in
1855. He was succeeded by his son, who subsequently sold the estate to Louis
Sèze in 1898, it then passing to his son-in-law Galy in 1911. Following his time
at the helm, however, the previously successful La Lagune began a spiralling
deterioration, not an uncommon theme for Bordeaux at the time. It was inherited
by a number of different owners, none of whom were of a position to make
significant investments in the estate, and after phylloxera and oidium this
pushed the vineyard into decline. The vines accounted for 50 hectares at the
turn of the century, but by 1954 this had dwindled to just four. La Lagune was
undoubtedly on the brink of extinction.
It is here, at the darkest moment for the property, that La Lagune's modern revival begins. The chateau and vineyards were purchased in 1958 by Georges Brunet, an agricultural engineer, who expanded the estate with the acquisition of a neighbouring plot Petit La Lagune, and together the estate took on its modern name of La Lagune, neither petit nor grand. Brunet undertook a whirlwind redevelopment, overseeing replanting of the entire vineyard and the construction of a modern winery, and within just a few years of his purchase the estate was once again turning out wines which fitted its status as a classed growth. Brunet, however, did not stay long. In 1961, in order to finance the purchase of Chateau Vignelaure in Provence, the estate was sold to René Chayoux of Champagne Ayala, an individual fortunately in the necessary financial position to build upon Brunet's efforts. The chateau was restored, and there was further work on the chai, including the installation of 26 epoxy resin-lined stainless steel fermentation vats, together with a novel system of airtight pipes for transporting the wine from vats to the barrel area, thereby completely avoiding contact of the wine, which is moved by pneumatic methods, with oxygen.
Today the estate is in the ownership of the Frey family, who acquired
Champagne Ayala (and thus La Lagune) in 2000, subsequently selling the Champagne
house to Bollinger in order to fund their acquisition of the Rhône négociant
firm Jaboulet, which had been floundering since the death of its patriarch,
Gérard. Caroline Frey was installed as winemaker, continuing a fine tradition at
La Lagune, instigated in 1964 when the estate, then under the direction of
Chayoux, was the first in Bordeaux to appoint a female manager, Jeanne Boyrie.
Boyrie, who stepped into the shoes of her husband who had ran the estate up until his
death, was in charge until she died in 1986; she was succeeded by her daughter, Caroline Desvergnes, who had been working on the estate since 1972. Today the estate is
overseen by Thierry Budin, who holds sway over 70 hectares of vineyards
(dominated by a single block of 57 hectares) entitled to the
Haut-Médoc
appellation, planted on a croupe of
Mindelian gravel. This is a sandy-gravelly mix, laying over a Quaternary gravel,
an arrangement that resembles the terroir of Graves somewhat, at an
altitude of 15 metres above sea-level which aids drainage, especially important
with these slightly more moisture-retentive soils. The vines are 50% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and an unusually high 10% Petit
Verdot, planted at 6500 vines/ha, and harvested by hand with a typical yield of
43 hl/ha. After temperature-controlled fermentation the wines spend 15 months in
100% oak, a longstanding feature of the wine, and a practice more commonly
associated with first growths. It tends to make it stand out in blind horizontal
tastings. Old barrels - and there are many with such a regime - are now used at Jaboulet.
The grand vin is Chateau La Lagune, of which 33000 cases
are typically produced each year, and the second wine is Moulin La Lagune,
or Chateau Ludon Pomies Agassac prior to 1998, of which about 8000 cases are produced.
I find the wine produced at La Lagune to be big, tannic and masculine, and when youthful it is frequently marked by the aforementioned liberal use of new oak. Nevertheless it is of good quality, and as the vintages mature the oak is surprisingly well absorbed by the wine, leaving us with a full, meaty, substantial drink which is good value. Some have suggested that it deserves a higher rank than troisième cru. I am always fearful that this obsession with determining which estates should be promoted or demoted may detract us from more worthwhile activities, such as determining which estates are turning out good wines at good prices. La Lagune has often been a candidate for inclusion on just such a list, with a number of young vintages such as 1996 and 2000 showing great potential, and 1983 being one of my favourite older vintages. (4/3/04, updated 23/11/05, updated 31/5/07)
Contact details:
Address: Chateau La Lagune,
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 57 88 82 77
Fax +33 (0) 5 57 88 82 70
Chateau La Lagune - Tasting Notes
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Chateau La Lagune (Haut-Médoc) 2005:
The fruit in the nose is sweet and ripe, with a slightly meaty edge, and a
trace of honey oak. It has weight on the palate, with a good balance of tannins
and acid, the former nicely covered. It is nicely composed and quite harmonious,
although the aromatics are lagging behind a little. I would think these will
come good in bottle though. Very good potential indeed. From my tasting of
2005 Bordeaux at two
years of age. 17+/20 (October 2007)
Chateau La Lagune (Haut-Médoc) 2004: A rather sexy nose, evocative,
full of fresh fruit and of course lots of spicy oak. On the palate it is full,
but well poised, with sweet fruit. It is well rounded but has a nice grip,
texture and acidity. This has a nice style; another good wine from an
under-rated vintage. 16.5+/20 (February 2007)
Chateau La Lagune (Haut-Médoc) 2004:
Rather closed, but when worked hard it does reveal a little deep, oaky
fruit. Appealing texture, with lots of ripe, velvety tannins. A rather fat, rich
style, but nicely cut with a firm acidity. Rather hard to judge, but it has good potential.
From my 2004 Bordeaux
assessment. 15.5-16+/20 (October 2006)
Moulin La Lagune (Haut-Médoc) 2003: This is very typical of the
vintage; it does not have a particularly deep hue, but there is a lot of
confit fruit on the nose, and some flashy oak. On the palate it is rounded
and attractive, with a touch of cream, and surprisingly approachable tannins. It
has little focus, a rather loose, unknit style, but it has appeal and is quite
ready now. 14.5/20 (February 2007)
Chateau La Lagune (Haut-Médoc) 2000: A surprisingly light colour, and
not giving a lot away on the nose. The oak is evident, with a little spice, but
otherwise no real character. The palate is full, creamy, rounded but obviously
closed down. It has a good presence and texture, but with no other character
showing at present it s difficult to judge. This should not be taken as a
definitive opinion of this wine. 15.5-16.5+?/20 (February 2007)
Chateau La Lagune (Haut-Médoc) 2000: A glossy, red-purple hue. Dense,
pure and powerful fruit on the nose. The same on the palate, with spice and
exotic fruit. It has structure, creamy texture and correct acidity. Lovely, but
so immature. Needs 10-20 years in the cellar. 17.5+/20 (January 2004)
Chateau La Lagune (Haut-Médoc) 1998: A deep, glossy, red-purple, more
youthful wine. An exotic nose, full of smoke and spice. Piles of texture and
extract on the palate, with a smooth, creamy, rich texture. Packed with flavour
but also structure at present, and is, unsurprisingly, somewhat unapproachable. Needs five years
at least. 16.5+/20 (January 2004)
Chateau La Lagune (Haut-Médoc) 1996: This has lost the pure colour of
youth and is beginning to show early maturity. Very classically styled on the
nose, full of stylish, smoky fruit. On the palate it has a similar purity of
obviously Cabernet fruit, like many wines of the 1996 vintage. Lots of firm,
ripe, tannic structure still in evidence, but very nicely balanced, elegant and
glossy. 17+/20 (January 2004)
Chateau La Lagune (Haut-Médoc) 1990: More vibrant colour here. Some
different characteristics on the nose too, with notes of organic, vegetal aromas
alongside smoky, meaty fruit. The palate is packed with fruit, is full,
structured and grippy. More intensity. Also holds more tannin than the 1988 and
1989, and clearly needs a few more years in the cellar yet. Lovely potential.
17.5+/20 (January 2004)
Chateau La Lagune (Haut-Médoc) 1989: A little more dense that the 1988.
Quite classic fruit on the nose, although with notes of toffee and burnt-caramel
oak. Full, rich, yet balanced on the palate. Still some oak here too, in fact,
although otherwise this is a nicely integrated wine ready for drinking now. The
toffee oak hasn't faded much since my last tasting, but the tannins certainly
have. Nice
grippy structure. Elegance, with creaminess. Delicious stuff. 17/20 (January 2004)
Chateau La Lagune (Haut-Médoc) 1989: Another well coloured wine. On the
nose, big creamy toffee and vanilla aromas give the identity away. More big
tannins on the forepalate with this wine, with ripe fruits and creamy vanilla. A
fragrant edge. Tannic. Good fruit through the midpalate, persisting on the
finish. Probably ready now with decanting. The presence of still perceptible oak
is typical of La Lagune. From a
1989 Bordeaux blind horizontal tasting. 17/20 (May 2000)
Chateau La Lagune (Haut-Médoc) 1988: A
dark, maturing colour, showing more youth than the previous wines. Burnt,
roasted fruit aromas on the nose. Full, rich and sweet palate. There is
delicious flavour, and it is very nicely balanced too, with a lovely structure
underpinning it all. 17/20 (January 2004)
Chateau La Lagune (Haut-Médoc) 1986: This is very different. It has a
dark maturing hue, with piles of ripe, creamy, mulberry fruit. On the entry
there is a similar wealth of fruit and texture which stays through the
midpalate, but then the huge, spicy, dominating tannins, so typical of this
vintage, raise their head. This is still a tannic monster. I am beginning to
wonder whether some 1996s have the substance to outlast the tannin. 17/20 (January 2004)
Chateau La Lagune (Haut-Médoc) 1983: This is a touch denser and more
youthful in appearance than the 1981. The nose has some sweet, mature fruit,
with a floral edge, but also a touch of volatile acidity. The palate is full,
sweet and creamy, with a lovely texture. It has a big, mature flavour profile,
with some structure showing on the finish. There's a nice touch of grip too.
Much more seductive than the 1981. 18/20 (January 2004)
Chateau La Lagune (Haut-Médoc) 1981: A very mature colour. Quite
aromatic on the nose, with a meaty quality. Rounded texture, but not silky. In
fact it has rather a firm, hard palate, with a little tannin still present on
the finish. Not at all dried though, and there is bags of mature flavour,
although also an apple-like note of madeirisation. Compared with my last
tasting, may well be heading downhill now. Nevertheless, lovely. 17/20 (January 2004)
Chateau La Lagune
(Haut-Médoc) 1981: A mahogany red wine. Lovely
fruit on the nose, and a touch floral. There are aromas
of cinders and fine, sharp treacle toffee. More good
cassis fruit as well as green peppercorns on the palate.
Medium bodied, with a fairly high acid, and soft,
integrated tannins. A touch creamy and a toffee edge. The acid
shows on the finish which is quite sharp, although there
is quite a length. From a 1981
Bordeaux blind horizontal tasting. 17/20 (September 2001)
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