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Ten Wines from Charles Joguet

Although perhaps one of the best-known names of the Chinon appellation, it is in truth some time since Charles Joguet passed on the responsibility for this domaine to others, a fact that is apparent every time I meet the young and dynamic François-Xavier Barc, the current face of the domaine. Perhaps, with this thought in mind, I should give some credit to those responsible for the wines we are buying and drinking today.

Since Joguet's retirement in 1997, the domaine has been under the control of a number of characters, the most prominent perhaps being Alain Delaunay. My profile gives added detail. More recently, however, Delaunay has also seen fit to move on, and the domaine is now essentially in the hands of François-Xavier Barc. Barc had worked at the domaine during the late 1990s, but after gaining experience elsewhere he returned in 2003 to take up the joint position of viticulturist and winemaker. He pays attention to detail, abhors machine harvesting (his reaction to this question, put to him when I first met him in 2006, was a picture to behold), and is moving the domaine gradually towards more organic viticulture.

It is surely no coincidence that, in my opinion, the wines of Charles Joguet have been getting better and better since the 2003 vintage. Perhaps the ripeness of 2003 and 2005 plays some role in this perception, but wines from 2004 and 2006 are no slouches either. I think, under Barc, Charles Joguet is once more - as it was under Joguet himself - one of the most significant domaines of the Chinon vignoble.

Charles Joguet

I have already given an account, as detailed as I can manage, of the Charles Joguet vineyards in my profile, but I present the above newly produced map as a recap. The domaine itself is located in Sazilly, on the left bank of the Vienne, and it is no surprise therefore that most of the vineyards we associate with the domaine - Clos de la Dioterie, Varennes du Grand Clos, Clos de la Cure - are located here, close to the village. The odd-man-out is the Clos du Chêne Vert, which is much closer to Chinon itself, on the opposite bank. Other wines in the portfolio - Cuvée Terroir, Petites Roches - are sourced from elsewhere or are a blend. For a full rundown on the vineyards and the cuvées, see my Charles Joguet profile, where all my recent tasting notes - including those presented below, tasted in late 2007 - are collated. (15/4/08)

Ten Wines from Charles Joguet - Tasting Notes

The wines here were tasted in London with François-Xavier Barc in November 2007. The wines presented include a number from the 2006 vintage, one or two very recently bottled, as well as a selection from older vintages. Click to locate stockists:

Charles Joguet Clos de la Plante Martin Sec (Touraine) 2006: This is the only white cuvée in the portfolio. A nice nose, very fresh and lively, chalky but with an open style, and a slightly honeyed edge. Full, rather plump, but not over done. A little grip. Slightly low acidity, perhaps, but fine melon and pear flavour. Really rather good. 15/20 (November 2007)

Charles Joguet Chinon Cuvée Terroir 2006: This has a moderately pale hue, and a furry nose, with an animalistic tinge to the fruit. Fresh, mineral, firm and quite grippy in the midpalate, with nice flavour. Although the nose suggests this will be a lighter style this actually has a lot of impact and tannic structure on the palate, perhaps from the blended press wines that may be used in this cuvée. Firm finish. Good. 15+/20 (November 2007)

Charles Joguet Chinon Petites Roches 2006: A warmer nose than the Cuvée Terroir, with deeper fruit and a firmer character. Rounded, well knit together, with red fruits over a tannic grip. Slight mineral leanness underneath it all, and a grippy finish. Good. 15.5+/20 (November 2007)

Charles Joguet Chinon Cuvée de la Cure 2006: Only bottled two weeks prior to tasting. A really dark colour, with dark and dense fruit evident on the nose. Full and almost creamy on the palate, big structured and impressive. Rich in fruit, with a crunchy cranberry and cherry freshness. Good composition and potential here. Very good. 16.5+/20 (November 2007)

Charles Joguet Chinon Clos du Chene Vert 2006: This has only been in bottle two weeks at the time of tasting. There is some sweet fruit character on the nose, but it is not very expressive, perhaps as a result of this recent action. On the palate it has texture and structure and lots of substance. Good ripeness of tannins and fresh acidity. Lots of grip here. Really good potential. 16.5-17+/20 (November 2007)

Charles Joguet Chinon Clos de la Dioterie 2006: A barrel sample. Despite this it shows lovely creaminess of fruit on the nose with a sweet character, but also a green and sharp edge which may resolve when this wine has fully undergone malolactic, which isn't the case at the moment. A firm core of tannin, in fact quite a bulk of it, but good acidity to match. Lovely substance and possibly really very good potential indeed here. May be a touch superior to the Chene Vert. 16.5-17.5+/20 (November 2007)

Charles Joguet Chinon Les Varenne du Grand Clos 2005: A glossy hue, and a lovely nose, rich and laden with fruit. Similarly attractive, creamy style on the palate, a good combination of slightly hard-edged tannins well covered by fruit, and overall a lot of substance. Good acid backbone. Grippy finish. This has a good potential for the cellar. Very good indeed. 17+/20 (November 2007)

Charles Joguet Chinon Les Varenne du Grand Clos 2004: Another chance to taste this wine. Sweet red fruit, dark and meaty depth showing now. It has a good presence on the palate, being round and well knit, not quite seamless but very well held together. Elegant, with a good grip underneath, fresh acidity and a lovely freshness as a result. Still drinking very well today. Very nice indeed. 16-16.5+/20 (November 2007)

Charles Joguet Chinon Les Varenne du Grand Clos Franc de Pied 2004: Rather quiet on the nose, a little berry fruit, opening up to reveal a little more with air. A nice, gentle style on the palate, much more so than the corresponding wine made from grafted vines. Round, complete, quite harmonious. A soft composition although there is a vein of tannins underneath. I think this is good but I think I just prefer the impact of the former wine. 16+/20 (November 2007)

Charles Joguet Chinon Les Varenne du Grand Clos 2001: A fairly good colour here, fading a little with age, but this is appropriate. A lovely, liquorice-laced style has emerged here, mature fruit character, although still fresh. Slightly lean in style on the palate, elegant and stylish. It has appeal but is eclipsed by better vintages I think. Nevertheless this makes for attractive drinking now, and that is what I would recommend doing if you have any. 16/20 (November 2007)