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Jaboulet
Jaboulet was founded in the early 19th Century - history has failed to conserve the exact date for us. All we know is that when records began in 1834, there was a Jaboulet making wine in Tain l'Hermitage. This was the man credited with founding the firm of Jaboulet, Antoine. Antoine Jaboulet had twins (I know how that feels) called Henri and Paul, who were a significant driving force in developing the business, so much so that the full title of the family firm is actually Paul Jaboulet Aîné, named after the elder (aîné) of the two boys.
As the decades passed the family had an abundance of sons to look after the business. Paul's sons Louis and Henri, and Henri's sons Louis and Jean all played their part. Then in the later years of the 20th Century Gérard Jaboulet, son to Louis, took the helm. Gérard died in 1997, and following that tragic event no less than seven members of the Jaboulet family ran the business; Michel, Jacques, Philippe, Odile, Frédéric, Nicolas and Laurent made up the team. Philippe Jaboulet was Director of the Jaboulet estates, a job he took over in 1992, after a nasty scuba-diving accident left former director Jacques Jaboulet disabled. The most significant development in the history of Paul Jaboulet Aîné for many years, however, came late in 2005, with news that the business, complete with vineyards and stock of back vintages, had been sold to the Frey family, who also own Chateau La Lagune in Bordeaux. It was reported that French inheritance taxes created the need to sell, but I do wonder whether other reasons, such as a lack of a firm direction, may have played a part.
The
Jaboulet range includes appellations from throughout the Rhône Valley, both
north and south. It includes a decent Cotes du Rhone Parallèle 45 as well
as cuvées from lesser appellations such as Coteaux du Tricastin and there is
even a vin de table. As is the case with other top négociants such as
Chapoutier and Delas,
however, it is in the appellations of the northern Rhône that Jaboulet excels.
And although the family own vines in pretty much every significant appellation, it
is with Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage that Jaboulet has really established its
reputation as an important player in the Rhône Valley. The jewel in the
portfolio has usually been the Hermitage La Chapelle, matched only by the white Hermitage
Chevalier de Sterimberg (named after the hermit that lived on the site of
the chapel on the hill of Hermitage), and all told Jaboulet own approximately 25
hectares of vines on the hill, second only in terms of vineyard holdings to the
local (and good value) co-operative in Tain l'Hermitage and
Chapoutier. There is another old favourite in the
portfolio, this being the excellent value-for-money
Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert.
In recent years the Jaboulet family had extended their vineyard holdings in
the northern Rhône, purchasing the Domaine St Pierre in Cornas in 1993
and the once great Domaine Raymond Roure in Crozes-Hermitage in 1996.
Both sites have been sources of fabulous grapes for Jaboulet, bottled bearing
the recognisable Jaboulet label, but also bearing the name of the original
domaine. One other northern Rhone wine worthy of mention is the St Joseph Le
Grand Pompée, a longstanding feature of the Jaboulet portfolio, named after
a character in La Legende des Siècles by Victor Hugo. Throughout the
1980s and early 1990s many of these wines provided fans of the Rhône Valley with
some delicious and elegant drinking.
Vineyard and winery practices are modern and quality orientated, with destemming, separate vinification of individual plots prior to evaluation and limited use of press wine. There is, however, use of some cultivated yeast. New oak is used for the Hermitage Chevalier de Sterimberg only, the reds go into used barrels. With the acquisition of the business by the Frey family it should come as no surprise that many of these barrels are today first used at their Haut-Médoc estate, Chateau La Lagune, where there is a policy of 100% new oak each vintage, so there is a plentiful supply of one-year old barrels to be shipped over to Tain l'Hermitage. The use of oak at Jaboulet seems sensible, varying from six months for Domaine de Thalabert up to 18 months for Hermitage La Chapelle. The wines are filtered - possibly more than once - prior to bottling.
Unfortunately, although it is without
doubt that La Chapelle has been magnificent in vintages as recent as 1995 and
1996, reports from 1998 onwards suggested that quality faltered - a
travesty in great vintages such as 1998 and 1999. My own tastings of the La
Chapelle cuvée from these two vintages would only support this finding; they are
not shocking wines per se, but when one compares them with their peers, in the
context of a great vintage, it quickly becomes clear that what should be one of
the top wines of the vintage and region is seriously lacking. Is this drop off
in quality related to the death
of Gérard Jaboulet in 1997? My own suspicion is that this is probably the case,
but I suppose only the Jaboulet family themselves can really answer this
question. Whatever the cause, I can only hope that this cuvée,
generally sourced from vines in Les Bessards, Les Greffieux and Le Méal on the hill of
Hermitage - not from the vines around the chapel as is commonly thought - sees a
return to form, and perhaps the firm's acquisition by the Frey family will
provide the impetus necessary to ensure this happens. One very noticeable
development in the short time since they took control of the domaine is price;
often released with a price tag of about £40 in the UK, the 2006 just about
topped en primeur lists with a figure more than double that, approaching £100
per bottle. I look forward with
interest to the opportunity to taste these more recent vintages. (3/3/04, last updated 21/1/08)
Contact details:
Address: Les Jalets, RN 7, La-Roche-de-Glun, 26600 Tain l'Hermitage
Telephone: +33 (0) 4 75 84 68 93
Fax: +33 (0) 4 75 84 56 14
Internet: www.jaboulet.com
Jaboulet - Tasting Notes
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Jaboulet Le Petit Jaboulet Viognier 2007: An appealing nose here, slightly
peachy, with a little pine nut. It has a very plump style on the palate, with
low acidity so typical of Viognier. Lots of texture here, and rather gently
flavoured. This is attractive for the price, but in truth it lacks the
concentration needed to match the texture. A short finish too. From a
Liberty Wines tasting. 13/20 (February 2008)
Jaboulet Condrieu Les Cassines 2006: An unoaked cuvée. This has rather a
mineral character to the nose with some lean fruit. It shows the same qualities
on entry, then a more creamy edge to the midpalate. And although unoaked there
is an appealing toffee edge to the fruit here. My criticism is that there is
perhaps a lack of fruit concentration, but there is a promising, burgeoning
richness through the midpalate. This is the first vintage made with input from
the Frey family; I had hoped for something a little more dramatic. From a
Liberty Wines tasting. 15.5+/20 (February 2008)
Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage Les Jalets 2006: A dusky, raspberry-pink appearance.
On the nose, cherry fruit with an earthy-funky style. A nice weight, gentle
through the midpalate, with some nice tannins at the core. Soft, but with
some decent grip at the finish. There is some potential here. From a
Liberty Wines tasting. 15.5+/20 (February 2008)
Jaboulet Muscat de Beaumes de Venise 2006: A rather pale appearance. It has
an inconsequential perfumed and soapy nose. It has a soft and plump character on
the palate, and although there is some peppery acidity it is totally swamped by
the rest of the wine. There is little here to recommend. From a
Liberty Wines tasting. 12/20
(February 2008)
Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage Blanc Mule Blanche 2005: Marsanne 50%, Roussanne 50%.
Sourced from a 7 hectare vineyard, this cuvée spends nine months in oak. It has
a creamy, buttery character on the nose, with nice honey-tinged fruit. There is
similar pleasure on the palate, good grip from oak-derived tannins, and a
flavour profile of dried and crystalline fruits. Moderate acidity, at best. This
is good. From a Liberty Wines
tasting. 15.5+/20 (February 2008)
Jaboulet Saint Joseph Le Grand Pompée 2005: A dusky, cherry-red hue. There is a
lot of animal character and funk here, over some herbal cherry fruit. Full,
gentle but broad, with a firm tannic core underneath. Rather simple, foamy,
cherry fruit. An undistinguished finish. Short, but grippy. Overall, good. From
a Liberty Wines tasting. 15.5+/20 (February 2008)
Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert 2005: This has a wealth of
creamy, liqueur-like cherry fruit on the nose, with notes of black pepper and
brambles. This has an appealing, clear, fruit definition. The palate is lovely,
with a broad, full, seductive character. It is creamy, but underneath it a
little brawny too. Good structure, with a lean, mineral twist on the finish.
This is very good. From a
Liberty Wines tasting. 16.5+/20 (February 2008)
Jaboulet Hermitage La Petite Chapelle 2005: A moderate depth of colour. Good
cherry fruit on the nose, very primary in character. It isn't huge or very
expressive though, but pretty. There is lots of texture on the palate though, it
is rich, concentrated, deep and creamy. It has a good depth, broad character,
with a good structure of acidity and tannin. Very attractive, with a lot of
potential. If this is the second wine, it will be a delight to taste the grand
vin. A success for the new proprietors, the Frey family. From a
Liberty Wines tasting. 17+/20 (February 2008)
Jaboulet Côtes du Ventoux Les Traverses 2003: Grenache 65%, Syrah 35%.
A sweet, peppery, black fruit nose leads into a sweet, youthful palate with a
herby Grenache character backed up by a good, spicy grip. Decent finish.
Impressive for the appellation. Drink now. 15/20 (September 2004)
Jaboulet St Peray 2002: Good expressive fruit on the nose. Fresh,
full, clean palate. A little fat and weighty. Good fruit here. Balanced. Short
finish. Good. 15+/20 (September 2004)
Jaboulet Crozes Hermitage Les Jalets 2002: Slightly leafy dark fruits
on the nose. Full, firm palate. Medium bodied, with a little tannin. Sweet.
Good, but obviously form a lighter vintage. Drink now. 14.5/20 (September 2004)
Jaboulet Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert 2002: Again a
dark fruit nose. The suggestion of delicacy here as well. A sweet edge to the
fruit on the palate, just a little grip and texture. Quite light, reflecting the
vintage. Shortish finish. Drink now. 15/20 (September 2004)
Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 2002: A difficult vintage, with strict
selection necessary. Very pure, dark colour. Firm, meaty, orange-peel notes
along the ripe Syrah fruit. Good Syrah character on the palate, minerally and
meaty. Plenty of firm tannin in the background, and the necessary acidity too.
Not one of the great La Chapelles, but it has classic style as well as
potential. 16.5+/20 (September 2004)
Jaboulet Crozes Hermitage Mule Blanche 2001: Lemon edged almost
tropical fruit layers on the nose. Very clean palate. Pure, racy acidity and
great freshness to it. Balanced. Absolutely lovely. 16+/20 (September 2004)
Jaboulet Hermitage Le Chevalier de Sterimberg 2001: Closed on the
nose, but there are nuances of honey and lemon to be found. A reserved palate.
It shows structure, and elegance. Develops a real weight and creamy texture
through the midpalate. Full and impressive. This has very good potential but
needs five to seven years cellar time before showing its best I think. 17+/20 (September 2004)
Jaboulet Côtes du Rhône Parallele 45 2001: Lovely, black fruit nose.
Sweet, dark cherries on the palate. Fairly full and rounded, some grip. Good for
the appellation - a good vintage for the south, of course. Drink now and over
the next couple of years. 15.5+/20 (September 2004)
Jaboulet Chateauneuf du Pape Les Cedres 2001: Good, plump, Grenache
nose. Sweet and ripe, herby fruit palate. Rounded, some tannin giving a little
structure. Good balance. A négoce wine, but a worthy one in what was an
excellent vintage. 15+/20 (September 2004)
Jaboulet Hermitage Le Taurobole 2001: A cuvée I've not tasted before;
another négoce wine which also sometimes contains declassified fruit.
Ripe nose showing a little rubber. Ripe, firm and creamy palate. Full, fat,
rounded palate with spice and orange-tinged fruit. A little zip. Good typicity
here. Needs three to five years. 16+/20 (September 2004)
Jaboulet Cornas Les Grands Terrasses 2000: Dark, slightly meaty fruit
here. This is more like it - obvious concentration on the palate, sweet-meaty
fruit, and good creamy texture. But quite a bit of evolution too, with soft ripe
tannins which are surprisingly ready other than a firm showing in the finish.
But it is a négoce wine. Good. Drink over the next five years. 16+/20 (September 2004)
Jaboulet Crozes Hermitage Les Jalets 2000: Deep purple hue. A nice nose,
of black fruits with a twist of meat, pepper and oak. Full bodied, showy,
textured on the palate. Fairly low acidity and a lick of tannin for structure.
Nice wine for current drinking. Tasted at
The Lower Place. 15.5/20 (March 2004)
Jaboulet Cotes du Ventoux Les Trois Mas 1999: Sweet
and perhaps a touch confected on the nose. Grenache
dominated raspberry fruit. Fairly simple on the palate,
with sweet fruits and a low level of somewhat chalky
tannins. From a Majestic
press tasting. 14.5/20 (November 2001)
Jaboulet Cotes du Rhone Mule Noire 1999:
Another nose with some pleasant fruit. More interest on
the palate. Smooth black fruits, less confected, with
soft tannins and correct acidity. From a
Majestic press tasting.
14.5/20 (November 2001)
Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert 1999: A lovely depth of
colour, deep and glossy, and the nose is immediate and very evocative. It throws
forth wonderful aromas of cherry, kirsch, smoke, dark and gamey meat, dense,
rich with plenty of smoky, vibrant fruit. Later it shows a lot of furry, gamey,
animalistic qualities. The palate is quite lovely, quite forceful and well
endowed with fruit, but fresh and well defined, not quite creamy but certainly
with plenty of texture and substance. Showing a lot of youthful character at the
moment, although also some immature complexity. A furry quality like that on the
nose. This is really very attractive, and has plenty of potential. Like the
1998, it knocks the La Chapelle of the same year into a cocked hat, only even
more convincingly. 17/20 (April 2007)
Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert 1999: A glorious red-black
colour when poured, quite deep and intense. The nose is full of rich Syrah character,
with summer berry and cherry fruit character, chocolate and spice. There is fine
structure on the palate, which is full bodied, with a strong, full, sweet texture, and good acidity
for balance. The tannins, although ripe and chewy, are very accessible, and this wine is drinking surprisingly well now.
Nevertheless, it is packed with primary fruit and pepper flavours, and will
doubtless improve with time in bottle. 16.5+/20 (July 2002)
Label
Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1999: A reassuring colour in one way at
least, in that it has an attractive shine, a nice youthful appearance and a
moderately deep core, but it doesn't have the dense colour and concentration
that we might hope for. An attractive nose, with dark berry fruit, and a rubbery
Northern Rhône edge - something I find in a number of wines from the region from
time to time. Rather light on the palate though, lacking in concentration, still
showing a faint vein of tannins, but there is an absence of impact, texture or
really interesting character. There is no real structure to speak of; in fact,
it seems very deficient in this department indeed. Some nice character here, in
itself a nice but rather light wine, drinkable and not the awful shocker some
seem to find, but given this was the greatest Northern Rhône vintage for eight
or nine years, this is very disappointing. 15.5 - 16?/20 (April 2007)
Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert 1998: A fairly deep
colour, not opaque, but with a nice depth of pigment. It has quite some appeal
on the nose, with typical meaty, gamey characteristics, with some smoky
dustiness and burnt cherry. Overall it is open and certainly expressive. More
meaty, gamey fruit on the palate, with a touch of sweetness to the texture, with
a bittersweet edge to the brambly fruit. Slightly foursquare, with some bare
structure on the finish, and rather firm acids here too. But overall it is good,
and is certainly approachable now although I think another year or two, no more,
will see this wine at its best. It rather puts the La Chapelle of the same year
to shame. 16.5+/20 (April 2007)
Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1998: A nice depth of colour, although it is by no means opaque, and here
begins my litany of qualifications. This wine has an attractive depth of pigment, but when one
considers that this is a Hermitage, reputedly one of the top examples of the
appellation, at eight years of age, and from a very good vintage, the intensity
of colour is perhaps not all that we would expect. The nose is never exuberant, but has an
appealing nature, with a reserved, admittedly slightly dusty, smoky-meaty
character. It certainly has a feel of maturity, with what primary fruit ever
existed already long gone. The palate has a creamy, milky feel to it, and again
a mature, gamey, dusty character. There is a diffuse, chalky tannic presence, as
well as rather firm acidity, backing up a nice, middleweight presence. It
seems a little coarsely put together at the finish, with a lots of structure
showing, and just a little length. But overall this was better than I expected,
no doubt reflecting my low expectations. I have seen this described as thin,
dusty and emaciated, in fact as rather undrinkable. Those words are too harsh.
This is a wine which is showing rather advanced maturity (bearing in mind how
other vintages have fared over the years), although it is still very much on the
way up judging by the structure of the wine, and which offers hope that in a few
years time it will be nicely integrated and pleasant to drink. It will not,
however, be a long-lived example of the appellation. Was it worth the money? No.
Is it a great Hermitage? No. Does it bring back memories of the birth of my
first son in 1998, which these bottles were bought to commemorate? Yes. And for that reason alone I
suspect I will continue drinking these with my very own personal pleasure. For label images and more see my
Wine of the Week write-up.
16.5+/20 (April 2007)
Jaboulet Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise 1998: A fresh,
aromatic, dessert grape nose. A classic fresh palate,
with good acidity and an attractive level of residual
sugar providing a well balanced, rich but not opulent
mouthfeel. Very clean and never cloying, this wine gives loads of pleasure at a
great price. Simple but delicious. 15/20 (November 2000)
Jaboulet
Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert 1996: Little
difference in colour with these three wines, but this is
perhaps the least opaque wine in the flight. Lots of new
oak apparent on the nose, with burnt caramel and orange
peel notes. Quite a round, full-bodied and stylish
palate, underpinned by a strong tannic backbone. Lots of
good, dark, inky fruits. No troublesome acidity, in fact
should make for a balanced wine once all the oak has
integrated. From a 1996
Northern Rhône blind tasting. 17/20 (July 2001)
Jaboulet
Crozes-Hermitage Domaine Raymond Roure 1996: Rhône
drinkers will be familiar with Jaboulet's
Crozes-Hermitage from Domaine de Thalabert, but a more
recent acquisition is the Domaine Raymond Roure. This
wine has a dark, deep purple hue. Caramel oak on the
nose. A rich mouthfeel on the palate, with big, sweet,
spicy fruit. Another wine with too much toffee oak for me
at present, but it may integrate with time. From a
Rhône
blind tasting. 17+/20 (January 2001)
Jaboulet Hermitage
La Chapelle 1996: A really attractive hue here, still plenty of pigment,
just showing some appealing maturity, but good depth. And a lovely nose too,
full of youthful potential, with bittersweet cherry fruit swirled in little
notes of roasted meat, smouldering embers and even touch of rather atypical
garrigue. Richly creamy on entry, with a firm presence of rather svelte tannins
and fresh acidity, giving a lovely sense of extract, all combined to give a
delicious depth and structure. Good cherry fruit too, but overall its the
appealing texture and those almost roasted, ripe tannins that impress. There is
a presence, a certainty of a fine future here that I find really persuasive,
assisted by a decent albeit rather tannic length. Jaboulet has been criticised
(perhaps rightly) in recent years for turning out lesser wines (and has been
subsequently sold by the family), but it is clear to my palate that whenever the
rot set in, it was certainly after the 1996 vintage. From a
1996 vintage ten years on
tasting. 18.5+/20 (December 2006)
Jaboulet Cornas 1995: Good colour, a garnet red with a touch of maturity. The nose
is full of spice and peppery fruit, but is not lush or overblown. Very fresh on the palate,
with good acidity, although still somewhat backward, with firm tannins which come to dominate
through the endpalate. Nice red fruits. Needs three years at least. From a
1995 Northern Rhône
blind tasting. 15.5/20 (March 2003)
Jaboulet Cornas Domaine St Pierre 1995: A glossy and vibrant red-purple hue. A gorgeously
aromatic, gamy nose, with a high-toned edge giving it a lift. There is a slight raisined,
over-ripe quality to the fruit aromas. Like the basic bottling this too is very fresh on the palate,
with good acidity, and it is still tannic, although there is enough substance to match. There
is more texture, with a rounded, creamy quality, and
sweet, slightly raisined fruit. Luscious and enjoyable but would benefit from two to three years in
the cellar. From a
1995 Northern Rhône
blind tasting. 17.5+/20 (March 2003)
Jaboulet Cornas Domaine
de St-Pierre 1995: From the St-Pierre estate, which
lies behind the Reynard and Les Chaillots vineyards, and
which was purchased by Jaboulet in 1993. This wine has
big, black fruit and oak on the nose. The palate is rich
in fruit and spice, with smoky, charred aromas. Tannins
are integrating nicely. From a
Rhône
blind tasting. 17/20 (January 2001)
Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1995: Another impressive looking wine. A dark, glossy, black
wine, fading to a deep-red mahogany tinge at the rim. The nose has luscious, smoky, game and
meaty fruit. Massive weight on entry, sweet and rounded texture. Packed with fruit. Plenty of
tannin, serious and balanced. Correct, firm acidity. This wine will go the distance. Needs five years
in the cellar, at least. From a
1995 Northern Rhône
blind tasting. 18.5+/20 (March 2003)
Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de
Thalabert 1994: This is a dense purple hue, with some tawniness.
Sweet fruit on the nose, with a bouquet of violets, rose petals and
charcoal. There are some fading toffee notes in the background. The
palate has some hard tannins, but appealing fruit, good body and strong
acidity. This will make an elegant wine when it has integrated more. From a 1994
Northern Rhône blind tasting. 17+/20 (February 2002)
Jaboulet Cornas 1991: A bottling specially selected
by the UK's Wine Society. Unusually the label declares an alcohol concentration
of 12.9%, a precision rarely seen today. In the glass it has a very deep colour,
a red-black core still, with a red garnet rim; it certainly has an impressive
appearance considering it is approaching its 17th birthday. The nose initially
gives lots of deep fruit, which offers much promise. Then there comes a more
animal vein, a little hot-smoked-barbecue note and even a touch of caramel. On
the palate the tannins are ripe, well integrated although showing a flourish on
the endpalate. There is good, well-balanced acidity and deep, furry fruit.
Overall it is rich, textured but well held together, with lots of extract and
weight. Little notes of orange and apple skin add complexity, and the finish is
imbued with a drop of caramel, more prominent than on the nose. A very enjoyable wine good for current drinking,
although there is certainly no hurry, and indeed this may show further
development yet. For label images and more see my
Wine of the Week write-up. 17+/20
(January 2008)
Jaboulet St Joseph Le Grand Pompée 1990: Big, ripe, almost
minty nose, with raspberries and toffee. Another richly textured wine,
with again prominent berry fruits on the palate. Tannins more
integrated, though, and overall the wine is much more ready. From a
1990 Northern Rhône
blind tasting. 17.5+/20 (May 2001)
Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert 1990: This is a
legendary Thalabert, probably the best Jaboulet has ever produced. An
interesting nose to open the flight - beef extract, tea and vegetal
aromas dominate. There is some classic grilled meat aroma which soon
blows off, as well as hints of charcoaled oak. Quite a tannic palate,
but fat and rich, with some forward acidic berry fruit showing.
Definitely some barbecued meat notes here. Lovely wine, still on the way
up. From a
1990 Northern Rhône
blind tasting. 18+/20 (May 2001)
Jaboulet Cornas 1990: A hard and austere nose, with just a
hint of smoked meats, and some strawberry fruit. Moderate tannins on the
palate, with some toasty new oak. Quite vivacious, upfront fruit.
Typically Cornas. From a
1990 Northern Rhône
blind tasting. 16.5/20 (May 2001)
Jaboulet St Joseph Réserve Personelle
1988: A remarkably youthful, dense, red-purple appearance. Toffee
oak on the nose is a mark of this producer, but there is also plenty of
raspberry fruit. Plenty of fruity acidity on the palate, with lots of
extract and tannin. Big and lushly textured.
From 1988 Northern Rhône
blind tasting. 17/20 (July 2002)
Jaboulet St Joseph
Reserve Personelle 1985: Quite a rich and opulent
colour here, denser than several of the wines in the next
flight. The nose drips with the caramel, burnt toffee and
custard-vanilla aromas that indicate lashings of new oak,
a dead giveaway that this is Jaboulet. A beautifully
fresh, rounded yet heavily oak-influenced palate, with a
charred caramel flavour. There is some fairly fresh and
smoky raspberry fruit though, with good acidity which has
helped maintain that freshness. On the endpalate this
wine is drying out and is somewhat disjointed, so drink
up if you have some. From a blind tasting of older
Northern Rhône wines.
15.5/20 (October 2001)
Jaboulet Hermitage La
Chapelle 1982: A darker hue, with some tawny
development. The nose is fine and quite elegant, loaded
with aromas of crushed raspberries, with a background
note of tar. The palate is similarly brimming with fruit,
there are soft, structural tannins and balanced acidity.
The fruit is layered with complexities, pepper, spices,
suggestions of charcoal and smoke. Despite its age it
still maintains a fairly rich texture, with almost an
oily edge. The finish leads into a good length. From a blind tasting of older
Northern Rhône wines.
17/20 (October 2001)
Jaboulet Hermitage La
Chapelle 1980: This has a red-mahogany colour, and is
perhaps the least densely coloured wine here. The nose
has powerful aromas of butter, with some gently frying
bacon, a touch of coconut, and perhaps a few notes of
stewed vegetables. Deliciously fine texture on the
palate, with soft, integrated tannins and acidity
supporting a fading layer of. raspberry fruit, with some
bacon and smoke nuances on the endpalate. This wine is
mature, and in fact there are some notes of deterioration
on the drying finish. Nevertheless, enjoyable. From a blind tasting of older
Northern Rhône wines.
16/20 (October 2001)
Le Petit Jaboulet NV: A tasting of the current release. Thought to be
predominantly Grenache, up to 90% of the blend although Nicolas Jaboulet
informed me it is impossible to give accurate figures at this level. Sweet
cherry Grenache character on the nose. Simple, rounded, soft sweet cherry
palate. There is a little grip beneath it all. Uncomplicated. Drink now. 14/20 (September 2004)
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