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Chateau d'Issan
Chateau d'Issan has considerable history; the original chateau dated from at least the 15th Century, and it has been suggested as the location of the English army's final stand following their defeat at the Battle of Castillon. The chateau that stands there today is largely of more recent construction, having been erected in the 17th Century, but it is perhaps no less remarkable, it being a rather attractive (although rather square-faced) moated building. The wine, which is largely produced from the walled vineyard that lies between the chateau and the D2, also has an illustrious history.
Chateau d'Issan: A History
The original fortress was Chateau Teobon, just one part of a succession of battlements on high ground which lined the Gironde. The earliest recorded owners were the Noalhan family, who held the rights to the seigneurie of Cantenac, and who bequeathed the estate to Thomas de Meyrac. It remained with this family until the early 16th Century, passing to Jean de Meyrac, the son, and then to Isabeau de Meyrac. Isabeau married Giron de Ségur, and thus the property was absorbed into the massive Ségur estate, which also included Lafite, Latour and for a while also Mouton. The estate passed through this family to their granddaughter who married into the Salignac family in 1527, and from here it passed to the Ferrière and then the Lalanne families. In the mid-17th Century it came to Pierre l'Essenhault, a knight and local parliamentarian, as part of the dowry of Marguerite de Lalanne. It was l'Essenhault who demolished the old castle and replaced it with the aforementioned moated lodge which still stands today, and thus the property took on his name, albeit an abridged version. The newlyweds and their descendents resided here until 1760, when the property was acquired by a local councillor named Castelnau, the estate subsequently being divided between the Castelnau and Candale families in 1776. The latter took the chateau, renaming it Chateau de Candale. By this time the vineyard was undoubtedly well established, and documents show that d'Issan was one of the earliest classed growth properties to develop an international reputation, with wines exported to many foreign markets, including the UK. They were recommended for the cellars of the Prince of Wales in a letter from a Bordeaux merchant in 1723, and found favour with Thomas Jefferson who makes reference to the estate in a letter he wrote in 1787. The early wines from d'Issan were clearly held in some regard.
The two families continued to hold tenure at d'Issan through to the 18th Century, until the two parts of the vineyard were acquired by Justin Duluc in 1825. Duluc instigated the revitalisation of the vineyard, before selling it on for a considerable profit in 1850 to a gentleman named Blancy, and it was under his tenure that the estate was classified as a third growth in the 1855 classification of Bordeaux. His descendents sold the estate to Gustave Roy, who also owned Brane-Cantenac, in 1866. Roy was a wealthy Parisian who had made his fortune in the manufacture and sale of textiles; he was an absentee landlord, yet despite this the wines continued to enjoy a good reputation during his ownership of the estate. No doubt this was partly due to the considerable investment he made in the property, including the construction of new cellars and a vat room, replacing less desirable varieties in order to focus purely on Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, particularly the former, and instituting an extensive program of replanting on Riparia rootstock.
It was until 1914 that the estate changed hands again, the purchaser this time being a M. Grange, who also owned nearby Giscours. Having survived phylloxera and mildew in the late 19th Century, and in spite of the work of Roy, both the quantity and quality of the wines deteriorated under the tenure of Grange, no doubt compounded by the ensuing economic depression and war. During World War II the chateau was occupied by German troops, as were many of the grand buildings of Bordeaux, and by the time peace arrived it was in a sorry state, as were the vineyards. Their saviour was Emmanuel Cruse, of the famous Cruse dynasty, who purchased the property in 1945. With only 2 hectares of the estate still committed to vines, there was much work to be done. The vineyards required replanting and the dilapidated cellars demanded new equipment, all work which was duly undertaken; it was some time, however, before the chateau received its long-overdue restoration. The Cruse family still own the property today, with Eric Pellon working as technical director. The effort and expenditure they have poured into Chateau d'Issan over the ensuing decades may be paying off, as some recent vintages have given us some very good wines.
This effort and investment has been divided between the vineyard and the cellars, overseen by Pellon, who was appointed with the express intention of improving quality at d'Issan from the ground upwards. Some of the vines were replanted, somewhat echoing the actions of Gustave Roy more than a century before. The new vines were Cabernet Sauvignon, on new rootstocks, and they were established in vineyards already augmented by new drainage systems. In the cellars a new grape reception facility was established and a new, gentle pneumatic press was added. There were 37 new stainless steel vats of varying sizes installed, ranging from 73 up to 200 hectolitres, to allow plot-by-plot vinification. A new barrel cellar was added to the facilities in 2000, and humidity control as installed in 2006.
Chateau d'Issan - The Vineyards and Wines
The vineyard at d'Issan has been expanded considerably since the acquisition
by the Cruse family, gradually increasing from just a couple of hectares after
the war to the current size of 53 hectares, a small proportion of the entire
estate which covers 120 hectares, most of which is pasture. Until recently these
vineyards included 22 hectares outside the Margaux appellation, some classified as Haut-Médoc and
some as a Bordeaux Supérieur. The former is named for the Candale family, as
Chateau de Candale (typically 6000 cases per annum). The latter, introduced
in 1988, is the product of the vines on the right-hand side of the poplar-lined
driveway up to the chateau (the vines on the other side are AC Margaux), and is labelled Moulin d'Issan (typically 6000 cases per annum).
Both provide for potential confusion with the second wine, discussed below, but they are in fact
sourced consistently from the same vineyards and their differing appellations
should remind us of this. Having said this, in recent years it has been
"all-change" at Issan, with the reclassification of some of these vineyards. In
October 2007 10 hectares of the Haut-Médoc vineyards have been reclassified as
AC Margaux, so the production of the Candale Haut-Médoc will be drastically reduced from the
2008 vintage onwards, and as the fruit is destined for the second wine volumes
of this will be greatly increased.
The main vineyard which gives rise to the grand vin lies adjacent to the chateau, has a typically gravelly terroir and is planted with 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot at a density of 8500 vines per hectare. The fruit is harvested manually and sees a double hand-sorting before delivery into the reception area where there is a third sorting on a vibrating table. Once complete the fruit is transferred to the aforementioned vats and fermented using temperature control under the guidance of consulting oenologist Jacques Boissenot. It is typically macerated here for 21 days, and malolactic fermentation is encouraged, before the wine goes into oak. The grand vin, Chateau d'Issan (typically 5-6000 cases per annum), is sourced from vines with an average age of 35 years, and will see 50% new oak. The average vine age for the second wine, Blason d'Issan (typically 5000 cases per annum, 30-45% of the annual production, although this is set to rise with the expanded vineyard) is 18 years, and this will go into oak of which 35% is new; this has been the case since 1996. The Haut-Médoc cuvées each see 30% new oak per annum. Most wines will see between 16 and 18 months of oak before bottling.
But what of the wines? Certainly, with the latter vintages of the 20th Century I personally feel as though there were few successes at d'Issan. The wines have long been full, rather firm, perhaps more so than many of their peers, but not quite possessing the charm and fragrance that one might look for in Margaux, nor the substance and concentration one might look for in any wine. Many of the wines seemed to linger in the market like lost souls, and I recall not so long ago a local merchant that was still stocking their shelves with the 1978, which you could purchase by the bottle for a fairly reasonable price. A comparison of wines from the late 1990s with the late 1980s reveals an increasingly tangible step up in quality though, and the vintages released since then would seem to continue this trend.
This trend is the direct result of a decision by Emmanuel Cruse, who took charge here at the age of 30 and remains there today, to invest and ratchet up quality at d'Issan; he explained as much to me over dinner at d'Issan in early 2009. Where he made the explanation is perhaps not that important, but my disclosure of received hospitality, in case you think that might taint my opinion of the wines, is certainly important. I don't believe it has, though; I'm not alone in seeing the improvements made at d'Issan come through in the quality of the wines, consumers and critics alike have come to the same conclusion. Cruse knew, I think, that d'Issan was underperforming, and he recognised that quality, and high scores from influential critics, was the way to ensure profitability. The installation of Pellon in 1995 and the subsequent introduction of the second wine were major steps forward, although many other improvements were made, as I have detailed above. And if success can be measured in Parker points then Cruse has made it, as he illustrated with an illuminating account of d'Issan's standing within the commune supported by a multitude of such numbers, all recounted from memory. Alternatively, success may be measured by the price that a newly released case of Chateau d'Issan now commands. As an extreme alternative, perhaps the establishment of Chateau d'Issan as an Honorary Consulate of Finland would be enough to convince some? It is certainly the truth, although the rationale behind this action remains a mystery to me. Whatever the method though, investment does seem, in this case, to have brought due rewards to Cruse. (13/5/04, last updated 15/5/09)
Contact details:
Address: Chateau d'Issan, 33460 Cantenac
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 57 88 35 91
Fax +33 (0) 5 57 8 74 24
Internet:
www.chateau-issan.com
Chateau d'Issan - Tasting Notes
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Chateau d'Issan (Margaux) 2008: This is 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, accounts
for 64% of the harvest, and will see 50% new oak. Picking began on October
1st, although most of the fruit for the grand vin was brought in between October
14th and 18th. Overall yield was just 28 hl/ha (for comparison, in 2007 it was
49 hl/ha). This has a much darker character than
Blason, with aromas of roasted meats, nutty oak and smoky complexity. The palate
is attractive and quite serious, with nice density, rich and ripe fruit, and
good spice. Nice backbone, good length too. A good showing. From my 2008 Bordeaux
primeur assessment. 16.5-17.5+/20 (April 2009)
Blason d'Issan (Margaux) 2008: The second wine of
Issan.
This is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, represents 36% of the harvest, and
will see 35% new oak. The volume is up this year as 10 hectares of Issan
vineyards with the Haut-Médoc appellation have been recleassified in October
2007 as AC Margaux, and the fruit has been included here. The nose is crisp,
with black fruits, perfumed liquorice and a little sweetness. Lean and stony on
the palate, although there is a sweet character to the fruit. Stylich in the
middle, but harder on the finish. Fresh, well judged, with some substance and
appealing notes of vanilla and raspberry. A good second wine. From my 2008 Bordeaux
primeur assessment. 15-16+/20 (April 2009)
Chateau d'Issan (Margaux) 2004: A really quite stylish nose here,
showing a good, typical Margaux perfume. Ripe fruit, attractive and brimming
with characterful aroma. Full, carrying good flavour at the start, then showing
a harder structure through the midpalate, but it continues with a good texture
and it has decent acidity. There is a nice but gentle, rounded sweetness to it.
Quite impressive. From a
Bordeaux 2004 tasting. 16.5+/20 (November 2007)
Blason d'Issan (Margaux) 2004: This is 60%
Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, with 35% new oak. It has a dense colour, with
a very dense core. The nose is rather dark in character, spicy and organic,
meaty, with notes of smoky, high-toast barrel notes still. There is good
substance on the palate, which is rounded, polished and creamy, with nicely
gentle acidity. Underneath, a good, grippy character. Good for a second wine.
Tasted over dinner at Chateau d'Issan. 16+/20 (April 2009)
Chateau d'Issan (Margaux) 2003: An attractive nose here, even though
it carries the warm ripe confit fruit of the vintage. The soft and
rounded texture is immediately apparent on the palate, with a rather appealing
weight and substance, but it has a level of acidity which is on the low side.
And of course there is a big wall of tannins too, leading to a hard finish.
Nevertheless it all sits together reasonably well and taken within the context
of the vintage I find this to be good. It is just superior to the 1996, tasted
alongside. 16+/20 (November 2007)
Chateau d'Issan (Margaux) 2003: Ripe and open on the nose, big and
expressive with black cherry fruit. Very typical of the vintage. A huge presence
of tannin on the palate, although they are quite well coated with fruit and
texture. They come to the fore on the finish though. Low acidity, as you might
expect, but overall this isn't bad, and approaches a balance that some wines of
this vintage find difficult to achieve. 16.5+/20 (November 2006)
Chateau d'Issan (Margaux) 2002: CS 78%, M 22%. Some youthful, quite
primary black fruit on the palate here. A little perfume, gravelly character,
attractive, with some yet to integrate oak. Nicely crisp fruit, with a good
tannic structure beneath, good acidity. Rather one-dimensional at present, but
has potential. 15.5+/20 (November 2006)
Chateau d'Issan (Margaux) 1999: This still has a red fruit profile as
it did when I last tasted it in 2003, although it is fairly reticent today. A
lean palate, showing a lot of structure with a rather thin coating of texture.
But overall it is rather muted, inexpressive, but I suspect this is just an
awkward stage. Very difficult to judge in its current condition. 15.5-16.5/20 (November 2006)
Chateau d'Issan (Margaux) 1999: A restrained, slightly medicinal,
red-fruit nose, again with a touch of beetroot like the 1996, and a little oak
still. Impressively dense and structured palate, with firm tannin underpinning
plenty of sweet fruit and correct acidity. This needs five years in the cellar.
15.5+/20 (November 2003)
Chateau d'Issan (Margaux) 1996: This is showing quite a mature hue
now, the density of pigment is falling off at the core, leading out to a pink,
mature rim. Nicely perfumed nose, complex, with meat, iron and earth notes all
playing a role. A very gentle and supple style on the palate, rather caressing
in nature, a nice texture, mature character, but a rather short finish. A low
impact style. This is
quite advanced considering it is a great left bank vintage, and taken in that
context it is disappointing. Intrinsically, though, it is nice, supple wine for
drinking now. 15.5/20 (November 2007)
Chateau d'Issan (Margaux) 1996: This has a very pure,
Cabernet-dominated nose that is typical of wines of the 1996 vintage. There is
lovely perfume and a gravelly note too. The palate mirrors the nose, with
classic, pure Cabernet fruit with a sweet edge, delightful poise and a stylish
texture. Alongside there are notes of red fruits and beetroot. Lovely. 15.5+/20
(November 2003)
Chateau d'Issan (Margaux) 1995: This wine, which I
first tasted in London 6 years ago, has developed a lot since then. The nose has
plenty of mature character now, with meaty fruit, tea leaves and rusty iron
filings. The palate is lovely, gentle and elegant, very harmonious, light and
integrated. Dry and yet bright, with good figgy fruit, this has turned out to be
very good. To be critical, underneath the fine aromatics there is a rather
diffuse structure, a rather soft and ill-defined palate, but the wine still
gives plenty of pleasure. Tasted over
dinner at Chateau d'Issan. 16.5+/20 (April 2009)
Chateau d'Issan (Margaux) 1995: Dense, earthy fruit on the nose, with some beetroot notes.
The palate is lovely, with some typicity in the perfume that adorns the fruit,
which has a dense, earthy character like the nose. A good, sweet roundness, but
appropriate tannic structure underneath. This one needs five years yet. 15.5+/20
(November 2003)
Chateau d'Issan (Margaux) 1989: This mature wine,
now 20 years old, still has a fine although overtly aged colour with a fading
rim. Meaty, mature, tea-leafy, but with lovely freshness still. The palate is
rather lean, stony and defined, but there is some substance to it. There is some
grip and backbone too, but more cushioning flesh would be welcome. The finish
is bright and rather peppery. A pretty wine which is starting to fade I think.
Good though. Tasted over dinner at Chateau d'Issan. 16.5/20 (April 2009)
Chateau d'Issan (Margaux) 1988: Mature nose, with some sweet, caramel-coated fruits. The
palate is savoury, quite rounded and attractive, and mature. There is still an
appealing, gravelly edge to the fruit. Integrated structure. Ready now, but
should drink well for five years plus. 16/20 (November 2003)
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