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Chateau Duhart-Milon

Chateau Duhart-Milon is one of the few properties in the 1855 classification of Bordeaux to lack a true chateau; the wine is in fact finished in a large warehouse off a side street in Pauillac, a warehouse which I discovered for myself in early 2010. This curious fact does not seem to have any detrimental effect on quality, however, which is currently high and still climbing, the estate having benefited in recent years from revitalising investment following its acquisition - shortly before it perhaps disappeared altogether if its rapid rate of shrinkage was anything to judge by - by Eric Rothschild, of neighbouring estate Lafite-Rothschild.

History

The origins of Duhart-Milon are somewhat obscure, and the history of the estate preceding the Revolution is lost in the mists of time. Nevertheless, when the estate first appears in the texts concerning Bordeaux, early in the 19th century, the vineyards seem to have already been expansive, judging by the volume of wine produced, and the quality was also high. At this time the estate was in the ownership of a gentleman named Mandavy, and it remained so until his death at some point during the 1830s.

At this point the vines of the Mandavy-Milon estate were inherited by Pierre Castéja, who was also bequeathed 14 hectares of vines following the death of an elderly widow by the name of Duhart. Local legend has it that Duhart was a pirate in the service of Louis XV who settled at Pauillac upon his retirement; his house sat on the edge of the Gironde until the 1950s, and was the inspiration for the image on the modern Duhart-Milon label. Bringing together these two vineyards, Castéja found himself in control of a 40-hectare estate which now went by the name of Duhart-Milon, Milon relating to a small village not far from the vineyard in the north-western part of the Pauillac commune. It was during Castéja's tenure that the property was deemed a quatrième cru when classified in 1855. After his death, his descendents ran the estate, employing André Delon, who also ran the show at Léoville-Las-Cases, as manager.

What followed is by now a familiar tale; phylloxera and oidium ravaged the vineyard, followed by war and depression which inhibited the then-necessary investment and development, and with the passage of time Delon and the Castéja family were forced to sell off some vineyards, whilst the vines in others grew old and died. One notable sale was to the proprietor of Batailley (before the split that gave rise to Haut-Batailley), who bought 15 hectares. By the end of World War II the vineyard covered barely 17 hectares (on an estate accounting for more than 110 hectares of the Médoc), and the wine was as good as nonexistent. The property passed through the hands of five different owners in just a quarter of a century, the frost of 1956 adding to the devastation in the vineyard. This lack of continuity only served to worsen the situation; when it was rescued from an ignominious end by the Rothschild family in 1962, the estate was in need of massive reinvestment. Nevertheless, Baron Eric de Rothschild was certain he had made the right decision. "It would have been nonsense not to acquire such a great neighbouring vineyard", he said.

Today the estate is under the management of Charles Chevallier, who occupies the same role at Lafite-Rothschild, with Christophe Congé in charge of activities in the cellar and Régis Porfilet looking after the vines.

The Vines and Wines

The vineyards, dominated by dying vines and overly-rich in Petit Verdot, were completely cleared, drainage installed, and new vines planted in a similar proportion to that found at Lafite-Rothschild. The estate and vineyard expanded dramatically with the purchase of new plots and an active program of replanting, the vineyard reaching 42 hectares in 1973, 71 hectares by 2001 and at the latest count 73 hectares, on an estate that covers 152 hectares. Today the vines, which are harvested by hand, remain predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, this variety accounting for 67% of the vineyard, with 33% Merlot. The Cabernet Franc, which once accounted for 3% of the vines, seems to have been grubbed up. They are planted on fairly typical soils for the region of fine gravel, mixed with Aeolian sands, on a tertiary limestone bedrock. These vines continue to mature, just one part of the explanation for the consistent improvement seen in the wines over recent years and decades, the vineyard now over 30 years of age on average. They are picked by hand, up to 2001 by a team shared with Lafite but from then onwards by a team of pickers dedicated solely to Duhart-Milon.

Then came revitalisation in the chai, which is not located on the estate, but at the aforementioned warehouse (pictured above) very close to the Gironde in Pauillac. New enamel lined equipment was installed, followed subsequently by stainless steel vats, and the wine sees a temperature-controlled fermentation with a cuvaison of up to 25 days. After malolactic fermentation the wine goes into oak barrels (produced in the cooperage at Lafite), the length of time depending on the cuvée. The wine is racked every three months, and then fined using egg whites before bottling. The blend for Chateau Duhart-Milon the grand vin (typically between 22,000 and 25,000 cases per annum), is dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, typically 70 to 80%, the balance Merlot. It goes into oak for up 14 to 16 months, with usually in the order of 50 to 55% new barrels each vintage. There is a second wine, introduced in 1986, called Moulin de Duhart (typically 5-7000 cases per annum), not Milon du Duhart as some seem to think, which takes deselected vats, mostly the produce of young vines. This is a much more even blend, with typically 55 to 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40 to 45% Merlot, and it will spend up to ten months in two-year old barrels before bottling. There is also a third wine Baron de Milon (typically 3-5000 cases per annum), with a similar assemblage, handled in the same manner as Moulin de Duhart.

Opinion

Having tasted a small selection of vintages over the years the improvement in quality has been tangible. The 1982 was a good wine, but not quite of the standard one might expect from what is frequently hailed as one of the greatest vintages of the late 20th century. It was outshone by the 1996, which might not surprise us too much, but the 1998 also showed rather well in comparison, which is more alarming. But the vines by this time have another sixteen years on them of course, and the vineyard and chai have seen another sixteen years of investment.

Each year at the primeur tastings the wine - or rather barrel sample - of Duhart-Milon is lined up for assessment alongside its grander neighbour Lafite-Rothschild and also that estate's second wine, Carruades de Lafite. Increasingly the sample has shown very well in comparison. These are now very good wines, taking on an even greater dimension with each tasting. The main hurdle to purchasing and enjoying these wines is now price; they are being taken up by the wave of Lafite-love that is currently sweeping across the Far East, along with the other Rothschild wines, namely Lafite and Carruades of course. When that happens, the price tag only goes up it seems. The 2009 is a case in point; within a day or so of release, the wine was trading at a price close to 50% higher than that of the (very small volume, of course) first tranche release. The prices of back vintages also began to climb, and Duhart moved away from being wine for drinking and inched one step closer to a likely new role as an investment vehicle. (17/7/02, last updated 5/8/10)

Contact details:
Address: Chateau Duhart-Milon, 33250 Pauillac
Telephone: +33 (0) 1 53 89 78 00
Fax +33 (0) 1 42 56 28 79
Internet: www.lafite.com (Domaines Rothschild)

Chateau Duhart-Milon - Tasting Notes

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Chateau Duhart-Milon (Pauillac) 2009: Cabernet Sauvignon 63%, Merlot 37%. The colour here is dark with good concentration, and the nose has a tightly defined fruit character, reticent rather than open, with a light sprinkle of chalk over some floral, black fruits. The palate has a very polished style, with a shell of fruit sitting around a core of very firm tannins which, although a strong component of the blend, do not over-ride the other elements. The texture is actually quite appealing, although it does have a stony-reserved style. Lovely supple fruit beneath though. Bold rather than exciting, but very good. From my 2009 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 17-18+/20 (March 2010)

Chateau Duhart-Milon (Pauillac) 2008: The harvest here did not begin until October 1st, finishing on October 15th, and the wine is 73% Cabernet Sauvignon and 27% Merlot. This has dense, reserved, linear fruit character on the nose, with good style. A note of perfume too. The palate is fine, showing stony, lean fruit but a nice weight to the middle. Lovely ripe tannins, substance and finesse. Fine extract and a good finish. Certain potential here. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 17-18+/20 (April 2009)

Chateau Duhart-Milon (Pauillac) 2007: This was tasted between Carruades and Lafite, and it struggled in this setting. Less expressive, and a rather gamey character to the fruit. The palate is similarly ungiving, although it shows rather nice texture and well covered tannins. No greenness. Broad, with more grip and a good texture. Reserved, but demonstrating good potential. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 15-16+/20 (April 2008)

Chateau Duhart-Milon (Pauillac) 1998: Another deep purple wine, this time with an exotic nose, of Eastern spices and sweet fruits. Full bodied on the palate, with an austere, firm texture, and similarly firm tannins. Lovely flavours, with sweet cherry fruit, Oriental spices and a medicinal edge. Correct acidity. Drinking 2006 onwards. 16.5+/20 (July 2002)

Chateau Duhart-Milon (Pauillac) 1996: A deep purple wine, obviously youthful, and unsurprisingly quite closed on the nose. The palate, however, is absolutely packed with fruit, is round and sweetly textured, with plenty of tannin and gentle acidity. This will be a lovely wine. Certainly developed from my last tasting. Drinking 2004 onwards. 17+/20 (July 2002)

Chateau Duhart-Milon (Pauillac) 1996: Lovely colour. Somewhat hard and austere on the nose. Minerals, wet stones, ink and notes of violets sit with some crunchy fruit. Very balanced on the palate, and quite an elegant stance for such a young wine. Lots of stony, blackcurrant fruit, ripe tannins and correct acidity. Give it another five years. From a Bordeaux 1996 horizontal blind tasting. 17+/20 (July 2001)

Chateau Duhart-Milon (Pauillac) 1993: Just a tinge of tawny in an otherwise attractively coloured red-purple wine. The nose is also still quite youthful, with aromas of coffee, toffee and fruit. A pleasant weight on the palate, although undoubtedly the lightest wine here. Spicy tannins, fairly tart but not unapproachable acidity, and some good, peppery fruit. A short finish, but a good effort from this vintage. 15.5+/20 (July 2002)

Chateau Duhart-Milon (Pauillac) 1983: This wine has a slightly darker red-mahogany hue, setting it apart from the others a little. The nose is more elegant than the others, with some stony, mineral notes, and later some earthy notes. The palate is fairly big and creamy. There are good, integrated tannins, attractive fruit, and some hot spices towards the finish. Good length. From a Bordeaux 1983 horizontal blind tasting. 16+/20 (November 2000)

Chateau Duhart-Milon (Pauillac) 1982: A dark, mahogany coloured wine cut through with a tinge of red. Very mature on the nose, with floral and spice elements. Nicely rounded but firm texture is apparent on entry, with soft integrated tannins. Meaty, tobacco and sweet fruit flavours, with spicy acidity and a clean finish. Ready. 17/20 (July 2002)