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Yves Cuilleron

Yves Cuilleron is a superstar of the Northern Rhône, his reputation riding on his very fine white wines from Condrieu, although he also produces sound Côte-Rôtie and St Joseph. Yves took control in 1986, following the decision of his uncle Antoine to sell the domaine. Although Antoine had made consistently good Condrieu, the wines never really excelled, and Yves set about rectifying this. What has made his success all the more remarkable is that prior to this decision Yves had no viticultural experience at all, and had in fact trained as a mechanic.

In the next few years, new purchases of vineyards increased the holdings of the domaine considerably, and Yves became one of the most significant producers of Condrieu in the appellation. His holdings allow him to produce three different cuvées. Cuilleron's basic cuvée is La Petite Côte, made from the youngest vines, with an average age of 15-20 years. The vines that provide the fruit are situated on the sand and granite hillside above the village of Chavaney.

The majority of La Petite Côte is fermented and raised in stainless steel to maintain youthfulness and freshness of aroma, although once fermentation is nearing completion 30% is transferred to oak casks where it will age for about ten months in order to add some roundness to the wine. As with all Cuilleron's wines, a full malolactic fermentation (the conversion of sharp malic acid to softer lactic acid) is encouraged, and frequent agitation of the lees helps to provide depth and flavour. La Petite Côte is surpassed, however, by Cuilleron's vieilles vignes (old vines) cuvée, Les Chaillets. This wine is produced from vines grown in terraced vineyards, hence the name Les Chaillets (meaning terraces), also above the village of Chavaney. The wine is treated with similar care, with frequent bâtonnage and full malolactic, but here over 80% of the final wine receives some oak maturation. Finally, Yves Cuilleron also makes a sweet example of Condrieu, which is quite unusual for the appellation. This is the Ayguets cuvée, and it has an excellent reputation. In view of this producer's performance today I would have no hesitation in snapping up any bottles that come my way. (24/10/01)

Contact details:
Address: Verlieu, 42410 Chavaney
Telephone: +33 (0) 4 74 87 02 37
Fax: +33 (0) 4 74 87 05 62
Internet: www.isasite.net/cuilleron

Yves Cuilleron - Tasting Notes

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Yves Cuilleron Viognier VdP des Collines Rhodaniennes 2009: Not yet bottled. 100% Viognier, half fermented in steel and half in old barrels. Very floral on the nose, perfumed, with a chalky sweetness. A softly-styled palate, some gentle grip to it, with a hint of pine kernels. More taut in the finish, quite spicy here too. There is structure to it but it is very unintegrated at present. Needs a little time to come together I think. From an Enotria tasting. 15-16+/20 (March 2010)

Yves Cuilleron Condrieu La Petite Côte 2008: Fermented in old barrels, bottled June 2009. A wonderfully expressive nose, with hints of honeycomb, the scents of lilac, with sweet fruit reminiscent of tangerine and peach. Supple, nicely styled, good substance, gentle but defined. A spicy grip, good acids, evocative aromatics, and overall very fine. From an Enotria tasting. 17+/20 (March 2010)

Yves Cuilleron Condrieu Les Chaillets Vieilles Vignes 2008: Sourced from vines aged between 30 and 60 years, this sees one-third new oak, the rest older, but fermentation is entirely in wood. A denser wine, seemingly more withdrawn, lilac again, pine kernels, apricots. A rather warm feel to it, but still very well defined. Some good substance to it, a really nice presence overall. An excellent composition, and good length too. From an Enotria tasting. 17.5+/20 (March 2010)

Yves Cuilleron St Joseph Les Pierres Sèches 2007: Fermented in steel and after a couple of weeks into old oak for 18 months. Sweet Syrah fruit on the nose here, fresh and slightly smoky, although with a touch of rubber. Clean, well-framed, supple and light-footed body. Fresh fruit, a good stony lift to it, just a touch more gamey through into the finish. An attractive wine. From an Enotria tasting. 16.5+/20 (March 2010)

Yves Cuilleron Côte Rôtie Bassenon 2006: Fermented in steel and after a couple of weeks into oak, 50% new, for 18 months. Includes 10% Viognier. There is a matt hue developing here already, and the nose is gamey with notes of roasted cherry fruit. Supple fruit on the palate, plenty of substance underneath though. A softly composed finish, ripe tannins, quite grippy, with firm structure to the finish. Seems quite open and evolved in some respects though. Good. From an Enotria tasting. 17+/20 (March 2010)

Yves Cuilleron St Joseph Les Serines 2001: Vibrant red hue but no great depth of colour. Cherry fruit on the nose. Nicely balanced on the palate, bright cherry flavour, although overall somewhat lean. From a Northern Rhône 2001 tasting. 14.5+/20 (March 2003)

Yves Cuilleron St Joseph L'Amarybelle Vieilles Vignes 2001: Bright, garnet red hue, again no great depth. Chewy, slightly confected cherry nose. Balanced, and some pleasing fruit. Lacks a bit of fat or texture. From a Northern Rhône 2001 tasting. 15+/20 (March 2003)

Yves Cuilleron Côte-Rôtie Terres Sombres 2001: Better depth of colour here. Dusty, cherry fruit nose, with a roasted character. Lovely fruit on the palate, some typicity, with a rounded texture and good balance. Peppery finish. From a Northern Rhône 2001 tasting. 16+/20 (March 2003)

Yves Cuilleron Condrieu La Petite Côte 1999: A lemon yellow colour, with a complex spicy, nut and honeysuckle nose, with very subtle background aromas of caramel, toffee and vanilla representing the oak maturation that some of this wine sees. There is also an underlying layer of clean, white fruit. Quite full and rich on the palate, nutty, with a creamy edge setting off the meaty, mealy, savoury flavours. There is a balanced, honeyed edge to the fruit, with a sweet and spicy finish, which gives more than a suggestion of power. A good length, with honey and quince notes. A delicious combination of clean fruit with a meaty, savoury sheen. 17/20 (October 2001)

Yves Cuilleron Condrieu Les Chaillets Vieilles Vignes 1999: This wine has a slightly fuller colour, and the nose has more prominent honeycomb and mealy aromas, signifying a greater oak influence. The palate has a softer and creamier texture, but with great structure on entry. It remains very rich through the midpalate, with flavours of honey, nuts, spices and Mediterranean pastries. Balanced acidity. This is a powerful wine with a great length. Overall quite remarkable. Surely has some potential for improvement. 18/20 (October 2001)

Yves Cuilleron Condrieu Les Chaillets Vieilles Vignes 1997: A pale, golden yellow appearance belies the richness that this wine possesses. The nose is intensely aromatic, with floral, lychee and sweet tangerine notes. A peachy, apricot and pine nut palate follows, but most impressively a rich, liquorous and delicious mouthfeel. Lovely balancing acidity keeps it lively. Unsurprisingly there is a tremendous, lingering length. This demonstrates the depth and complexity that may develop with just a little bottle age. A true vin de garde. 19/20 (October 2001)