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Jean-Luc Colombo

Jean-Luc Colombo is all things rolled into one - viticulteur, oenologist, consultant and négociant. As such, who better to profile in my investigation of the Rhone Dichotomy, in which I examine the range and quality of wines available from the négociants, such as Delas, Chapoutier and Jaboulet, and individual producers such as Noel Verset and Thierry Allemand. From his vineyards Jean-Luc Colombo produces several cuvées of AC Cornas, but he also has an extensive négociant portfolio covering many other appellations of the Rhone Valley as well as sourcing wines from Roussillon and Provence. What better opportunity could there be to compare home-grown wines with those from a négociant?

Colombo Jean-Luc and his wife arrived in Cornas in the 1980s, and by 1984 they had set up the wine consultancy with which he made his mark. His outspoken opinions quickly ensured his name became well known, although not all agreed with his methods of near organic viticulture, 100% destemming and long maceration - up to a month - to enhance extraction. Colombo ruffled feathers in Cornas and further afield, and as a result there has been much open criticism of his methods. His clients, however, who number in the hundreds and include Chapoutier and Chateau Fortia to name just two, seem to enjoy considerable success using Colombo's methods.

In 1986 they purchased their first vines, the following year being their first vintage. Cornas forms the cornerstone of the Domaine Jean-Luc Colombo portfolio, with three cuvees produced from plots owned and tended by Colombo. The top cuvée is Les Ruchets, a single vineyard wine made using vines purchased from Guy de Barjac, which sees 70% new oak. La Louvée, which sees 100% new oak, sits in the middle of the range, before Terres Brûlées, a blend of wine from eight plots in Cornas, which is kept in used barrels. In addition he also produces a St Peray La Belle de Mai, from 80 year old Roussanne vines. It is Colombo's three cuvées of Cornas, however, that demonstrate the quality available here.

Colombo's influence is spread much further afield, however, most notably by the Vallee du Rhône range, négociant wines which cover most of the appellations of the Rhône Valley. In addition Colombo is involved in a number of estates in the south of France; Domaine de la Côte Bleue near Marseilles which produces Les Pins Couches (Coteaux d'Aix) and vin de pays, Domaine de St Luc in Roussillon where he produces Côtes du Roussillon and Muscat de Rivesaltes and Domaine de Salente near Montpellier, source of Coteaux du Languedoc and more vin de pays wines. (13/4/04)

Contact details:
Address: Pied de la Vigne, 07130 Cornas
Telephone: +33 (0) 4 75 40 36 09
Fax: +33 (0) 4 75 40 16 49

Jean-Luc Colombo - Tasting Notes

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2001

Jean-Luc Colombo Côtes du Rhône Les Forots 2001: From 60 year old vines, 100% Syrah. Dark, ripe fruit on the nose. This has a lovely creamy texture and a delicious presence on the palate. The tannins and acidity are attractively soft. This is impressive for the appellation. 16.5/20 (November 2003)

Jean-Luc Colombo Cornas Terres Brûlées 2001: From 60 year old Syrah vines. A delicious nose here, with a wealth of roasted fruits. Soft, rich, rounded, almost creamy on the palate. There is extract and a ripe tannic structure hovering in the background but this is very approachable now. A modern style. 17/20 (November 2003)

Jean-Luc Colombo Cornas La Louvée 2001: From 70 year old vines. Richly fruited nose here, packed with dark Syrah character. Lovely texture on the palate, a touch less creamy than the Terres Brulees. Rich, with a seam of tannins in the background. Roasted fruit flavours. Lovely. Needs five years. 17+/20 (November 2003)

Jean-Luc Colombo Cornas Les Ruchets 2001: From 90 year old vines. Glossy appearance. Very serious nose here, packed with roasted fruits. Complex palate, rich in extract and structure. Ripe firm tannins. Needs five to eight years. This is tremendous quality, clearly the jewel in the crown as far as the Colombo portfolio is concerned. 17.5+/20 (November 2003)

2000

Jean-Luc Colombo Côtes du Roussillon La Chance de St Luc 2000: 50% Syrah, 50% Grenache. This has fresh fruit on the nose. A lovely mouthfeel, warm and enveloping, with fresh red and black berry flavours. Soft tannins, and correct acidity. This is approachable now. 16/20 (November 2003)

Jean-Luc Colombo Les Pins Couches Coteaux d'Aix Pincouches Rouges 2000: 100% Syrah. Ripe and smoky black fruits on the nose. Soft, rounded, warm and welcoming palate, but backed up by some firm, structured tannins. Needs one to two years in the cellar. 16+/20 (November 2003)

Jean-Luc Colombo Côte-Rôtie 2000: 5% Viognier in the blend here. Nice roasted notes on the nose. Very clean, integrating well on the palate. Excellent fruit and good ripe tannins which show most on the finish. Needs five years yet. 17+/20 (November 2003)

1999

Jean-Luc Colombo Hermitage Le Rouet 1999: 100% Syrah, 18 months in new oak. This is much more restrained on the nose than the preceding wines, but there is a promising wealth of sweet black fruits. Nevertheless, it is surprisingly approachable on the palate, with a lovely texture and ripe tannins. Rich in fruit. Will benefit from further time in the cellar. 17+/20 (November 2003)

1991

Jean-Luc Colombo Cornas 1991: The nose is more closed than some of the other wines. Some coffee and chocolate notes which suggest to me the influence of oak, together with dense berry fruit. Rich, spicy and full of potential on entry. Tannic with good grip. Spiced meats, pepper and fruit flavours, with plenty of texture and body. Needs five years. From a 1991 Northern Rhone tasting. 17+/20 (November 2002)