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Wines of South Africa 2008 Part 2

Wines of South Africa 2008 After part one of these tasting notes, in which I featured the white wines, naturally we now have the reds. Here there was perhaps a more consistent showing than with the whites, although that is not to say there were no ups and downs here.

Some of the first wines I tasted were those from Cloof; these proved to be good wines, even if the choice of names for these wines was rather questionable in some cases. The Very Sexy Shiraz is, unsurprisingly perhaps, a rich and opulently styled wine, so in one respect the name does a good job in conveying some information about its character. But that doesn't mean it isn't a little naff in my opinion. 'Fun' would be another way of putting it, I suppose. There was refreshing honesty when discussing The Cellar Blend, however, which is indeed a cellar blend of small, left-over aliquots of wine which would have otherwise been sold off for bulk wine or distillation. Considering its humble origins, this wine was pretty good.

Otherwise there were strong showings from a number of estates, not least Rustenberg (with the successful John X Merriman), Quoin Rock and TMV. As with the whites, a number of these were being poured by Richard Kelley MW of Richards Walford. It was also he that brought the two fortified wines described here, including the popular Axe Hill Port-lookalike. His is clearly a successful, well-chosen range. All the notes, whether good or not-so-good, are presented below. I have also included stockist information, as well as links through to wine-searcher. Prices are as a guide only. (5/6/08)

Wines of South Africa 2008 Part 2 - Tasting Notes

Tasted in April 2008. Click to locate stockists.

Red Wines

Cape Chamonix Troika (Franschhoek) 2005: Cabernet Sauvignon accounts for 90% of this blend, the rest Cabernet Franc. A good nose, sweet fruit, well defined and fresh. Slightly warm and fleshy, but nicely integrated, a ripe and balanced character. Good grip. A little length. This has good potential. 16+/20 (Woodwinters, £12)

Cloof The Cellar Blend Red (Darling) 2005: A mix of press wines and other remnants left over after blending, this wine has a bright and expressive nose, with aromas of canned strawberries and black pepper. Light in character, but full of freshness and fruit, this has a light and flavoursome style with good acidity. Considering its start in life, this is really very good. 16+/20 (Cloof Wines UK, £9.99)

Cloof The Very Sexy Shiraz (Darling) 2005: Very nice, sweet, black fruits on the nose here. Notes of pepper, with a very slightly meaty, gamey vein. Well rounded, with a ripe styles of fruit. Fleshy, forceful, but the oak is well integrated. Nice grip and acidity, and despite the overtly rich style a good grippy, tannic finish. 16.5+/20 (Cloof Wines UK, £9.99)

Cloof Crucible Shiraz (Darling) 2006: Produced from a single plot of bush vines planted in 1998, typically 3-4000 bottles per annum. Creamy black fruits, intense, rich, concentrated, but also fresh and displaying fruit complexity. Vibrantly sweet fruit, a touch herby and confected, but on the whole bright and well defined despite the obvious richness. A full-on style, although with a zippy undercurrent, and overall very good. 17.5+/20 (Cloof Wines UK, £29.99)

Cloof Lynchpin (Darling) 2005: An attractive, rich fruit nose here. A creamy texture, but fresh with good acidity. A gentle but broad midpalate, a nice grip. A good and interesting composition here, with a well structured finish. Sweet and very well formed. 16.5-17+/20 (Cloof Wines UK, £19.99)

Paul Cluver Cabernet Sauvignon (Elgin) 2003: Warm, rather feral, is there some low-level Brettanomyces here too? Characterful, and initially it seems quite nicely poised on the palate, with stacks of fruit. But in the midpalate it seems very stony, dried out and rather mousey. All in all this doesn't carry much appeal for me. 12/20 (Great Grog, £10.25)

Ken Forrester Gypsy (Stellenbosch) 2004: Slightly perfumed and stony fruit here, although beneath it there is a warm, slightly feral character. Soft, gently fleshy, with some grip underneath. An attractive presence, nice weight, good energy and fruit complexity. This has a very good and well-structured character, and a good finish. This has potential. 17+/20 (Abbey Fine Wines, £17.95)

Foundry Syrah (Stellenbosch) 2004: A lovely, expressive nose here, with some stony and well defined fruit, A lovely flesh, and a good weight, this is textured but elegant. Fleshy, sappy, broad but balanced, this is attractive and approachable. 17+/20 (Woodwinters, £17.50)

Groot Constantia Shiraz (Constantia) 2005: Oak, charcoal and burnt toffee here, all laid over some very dark fruits. Soft and unfocussed palate, gentle style, broad and attractive. Peppery, slightly fleshy, but not very well defined overall. Decent. 14/20 (Cockburns of Leith, £11.99)

Groot Constantia Cabernet Sauvignon (Constantia) 2006: A soft and warm nose, although overall it is rather inexpressive. A gentle style on the palate, fleshy and balanced, with a little perfumed, chalky fruit. An attractive, unassuming character. Nice wine. 15.5-16+/20 (Cockburns of Leith, £12.50)

Lammershoek Zinfandel/Syrah (Swartland) 2006: A very organic nose, and it seems a little stripped out, perhaps a touch metallic. This is also true on the palate, which shows simple fruit, but has more substance than you might expect. Decent wine. 14.5/20 (Woodwinters, £11)

Max Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Petit Verdot (Stellenbosch) 2004: This is 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, the remaining 44% equal portions of Merlot and Petit Verdot. Rather meaty and gamey on the nose, showing attractively perfumed fruit. Well defined, rather sappy, firming up a little later on. Broad, with a lovely character, and appealing fruit definition towards the end. Good potential here. 16.5+/20 (Woodwinters, £17.50)

Quoin Rock Cape Blend (Stellenbosch) 2001: This is Shiraz, Pinotage and Merlot, in equal proportions. It has some lovely, complex, sweet fruit on the nose, with a complex, organic and aromatic character. A lovely texture, fresh and vigorous, with a good depth of sweet fruit. Rich, stylish and ripe, this is full of potential, and offers very good value at this price I think. 17+/20 (Woodwinters, £10.50)

Rustenberg John X Merriman (Stellenbosch) 2005: A complex blend, this is 54% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 3% Malbec. Warm and ripe fruit, rich although quite well defined. The same characteristic comes through on the palate, which is elegantly composed, showing a fresh, fruit-rich character. It is a little fleshy, with good flavour and well balanced grip and acid. Very good indeed. 17.5+/20 (Great Grog, £10.75)

Rust En Vrede Merlot (Stellenbosch) 2005: Attractive, ripe fruit here. The palate is fresh but textured, with a nice extract and a delightfully perfumed character. Fleshy, ripe, very appealing, with some grip. Nicely balanced. Good. 16+/20 (Great Grog, £10.75)

Rust En Vrede Cabernet Sauvignon (Stellenbosch) 2004: A nice ripe fruit character here, just a little gamey edge to it. Attractive, fleshy, but nicely composed, this has a gentle balance but overall it is sweet, rounded, although it is showing slightly warm, savage fruit. Soft and rather short finish. It seems a touch hot here too. 15/20 (Great Grog, £15.49)

Sequillo (Swartland) 2004: The second vintage for this wine, which is 80% Syrah, with 10% each Mourvèdre and Grenache. A concentrated and characterful nose, with some dusty and peppery cherry fruit, and some ripe, complex fruit. A lovely texture on entry, then it withdraws to a more balanced poise. Gentle but fresh and defined, with lots of intensity and a abroad, sappy substance. Very good indeed. 16.5-17+/20 (Woodwinters, £15)

TMV Viktoria (Tulbagh) 2005: This is 60% Syrah, with equal parts Cinsaut and Cabernet Sauvignon making up the balance. Sweet, rich, slightly buttery dark Syrah fruit here. Lovely presence, rounded and creamy-silky, with lots of character underneath. Good acids, rather impressive overall. Delicious potential. 17-17.5+/20 (Woodwinters, £13)

Vergelegen Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (Stellenbosch) 2004: This includes 7% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc. A slightly warm and diffuse character on the nose, with a spicy and open style, edged with toffee and marshmallow. The same comes through on the palate. arm and fleshy, soft and spicy, with a broad tannic structure through the midpalate. Some grip. Decent wine. 15/20 (Widely stocked, £13.89)

Vergelegen Merlot Reserve (Stellenbosch) 2004: This includes 15% Cabernet Franc. Not a very expressive nose here, broad and fleshy, but structured beneath it, with a nice tannic grip at the core. Good sappy character, quite harmonious composition, well poised. Not showing much flavour other than a little sweet Merlot character on the finish, so rather closed down today, and difficult to judge definitively. But good potential here, I think. 16-16.5+?/20 (Widely stocked, £12.79)

Vergelegen Prestige Red (Stellenbosch) 2002: This is 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc. A nicely perfumed nose, attractive and aromatic, the Cabernet Franc is showing through to the wine's benefit. Full and sappy, gentle presence at first, a firmer midpalate grip thereafter. Quite elegant, a note of lifted purity. Not a long finish but overall very good. 16.5-17+?/20 (Cornelius & Tesco, £26)

Fortified Wines

Axe Hill Cape Vintage (Calitzdorp) 2003: A South African Port-lookalike, indeed labelled as such on the domestic market. It comprises 45% Tinta Barocca, 45% Touriga Nacional and 10% Souzão. A lovely nose, dusty, sweet, ripe and rich. Somewhat organic, animalistic, a little savage. Sweet and creamy, rounded, dark and concentrated, this is a wine with lots of kick. Very nicely composed though, fresh and firm, with great character. Impressive potential. 17.5/20 (Woodwinters, £17)

Nuy Winery Rooi Muscadel (Robertson) 2006: This is red Muscadel, fortified. It has rich Muscat fruit on the nose, aromatic, open and sweet. Full of character. A long, sweet, lingering finish, heady and rich. One positive aspect to this wine's character is it apparently lasts forever, once opened. Good. 15/20 (Woodwinters, £8)