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Ancient Port Tasting
Mature Port is an wonderful treat and excellent addition to any cellar; as a
student I recall picking up bottles from the 1970s for very little outlay even
at retail (I'm sure at auction they must have been even cheaper). I enjoyed them
greatly, although true Port aficionados would of course tell me that the best
vintages from that decade are still not at peak even now. This is an opinion I
have to ignore, as I continue to work my through my personal stock which now
largely features the 1983, 1985 and split 1991/1992 vintages (as well as some
single-quinta wines from other vintages of the 1980s and 1990s).
What a pleasure then to gather with other Port fans to taste a small range of perhaps ancient vintage Ports over Sunday lunch (yes, that's right, Sunday lunch). The only caveat was that the bottles were of dubious provenance, having been discovered in a barn in the Cotswolds, caked in dirt, and bearing some unlikely hand-written labels. Only at the tasting were any of the wines reliably identified, and even then only half of them. Only one wine resembled what the label claimed, but for that I think I am grateful! Perhaps this genuine 19th Century bottle was the basis for the misinformation (details below) surrounding the others purchased in the same lot.
The Ports were sampled before and again after a lunch of potted shrimps, Arbroath smoky and cold roast beef with salad, all of which were just sublime. (27/10/06)
Ancient Port Tasting - Tasting Notes
Tasted in October 2006. Click
to locate stockists.
Warre's Vintage
Port 1958:
The capsule suggests that this is Warre's, but the vintage is unclear until we
pull the cork, which reveals it to be from 1958, a decent although rather light
vintage, especially when compared to the other declared vintage of this decade,
1955. The label, however, suggested that this was 1851 Vintage Port, resealed
1952, which is obviously nonsense. Another mature colour here,
orange-tawny-brown, perhaps not quite so dense as the first wine. An interesting
nose; a little high-toned, piquant, slightly baked, ethereal even? The palate is
attractive, rounded, lightly creamy, bright, rather harmonious, although again
there is a little oxidation. A firm finish. Quite stylish really. Easier to
drink than the heavier, slightly sticky predecessor. 16/20
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Graham's Vintage Port
1955: Another three-part moulded bottle claiming to hail from the 1851
vintage, resealed at 101 years of age. Again it is nonsense; the capsule
suggests Graham's, and the cork confirms it to be of the superior 1955 vintage.
The level is very poor though, down to bottom shoulder. The wine has a surprising tawny, orange-brown hue. The nose, however, is bright,
obviously mature, with some appealing woodspice. An elegant palate ensues, very
complete and appealing balanced, ethereal style, rounded, mature, forceful
despite this, just a little vegetal note in the background. Not oxidised though,
despite that low level, which is remarkable. This is certainly in
keeping with the Graham's house style, evident despite the age of this bottle; I
suspect that this is a rather advanced example though. I'm sure
there exist other bottles of this wine in much better condition. 16.5/20
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Taylor's Vintage Port 1912:
Here the capsule reveals this to be of the 1912, although the shipper is
unknown, until the cork is pulled at least. This reveals it to be Taylor's,
generally regarded as one of the best wines from an exceptionally good vintage.
The wine has a gorgeous, orange caramel colour, and the nose is delightful, with
reserved, figgy, floral, really rather stylish characteristics. On the palate,
there is a lovely, creamy, rounded structure with a complete presence on the
palate. Really very good indeed, and certainly the leading wine in this setting. 17/20
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Menis Collector's Port (Paarl, South Africa) 1948: A late addition to
the event brought by another taster; obviously not true Port, but why not
include it here? Finely preserved label, so I suspect this has not been in
bottle as long as some of the Ports above. This has a cloudy, orange brown
appearance with a dirty green rim. The nose has interest, with a sweet, meaty,
alcoholic, tar and axle grease character; do they have any Pedro Ximénez in
South Africa? Rather hot and raisiny. On the palate, sweet and peppery, with a
caramel-toffee-walnut flavour presented in a rancio style. Textured. Very
reminiscent of an Australian liqueur Muscat, adding weight to my thought that
this may have spent a long time in barrel. Interesting wine. 14.5/20
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Unidentified Port #1: The label here suggested that this contained two bottles of Chateau Lafite 1851, resealed 1852, which is a remarkable claim for any bottle; the three-part moulded bottle, however, looks younger than that. The capsule and cork, when pulled, reveal that this was bottled by Hedges & Butler, London, but unfortunately there is no further information such as vintage. A walnut-brown, caramel hue. The nose has a raisiny, toffee-walnut aroma, with a little light vegetal oxidation, later moving into a more woody frame. Impressive texture, rather surprising in view of the likely age of the wine, rather fat and stickily sweet, with a firm and peppery midpalate and finish. This has held together very well. 15.5/20
Unidentified Vintage Port #2, 1966: A three-part moulded bottle, no identifying marks externally, although the cork at least reveals the vintage to be 1966. The shipper, sadly, remains unknown. It certainly has a much more youthful appearance in the glass, with a vibrant red hue at the core, with pink-orange rim. The nose is fairly closed down at first, but opens out to reveal some appealing fruit. Delicate, textured, complete, fairly harmonious, this has a good presence on the palate. Rather spiced, peppery tannin still in evidence. Really quite good, although perhaps not up to the standard one might expect of a top 1966; it doesn't have the expected weight or presence. There is a little potential for further development yet though. 15.5+/20
Unidentified Vintage Port #3: Another wine claiming a heritage dating from 1851, but again I suspect this is nonsense. This is a three-part moulded bottle, with cork heavily encrusted with sediment. Perhaps this is where the pigment from this particular wine has gone, as it has a pale, orange-caramel hue at the core, with a yellow-green rim. Good clarity though. The nose suggests advanced maturity, with a vegetal character, notes of dried leaves, twigs and baked earth. No oxidation, but rather reminiscent of an old Madeira. Light, a little creamy and later fattening up quite a bit, with appropriate acidity for Vintage Port (not Madeira!). Old, leathery, complex style, persistent, fairly complete. This is certainly showing its age, whatever it is. 15/20
Unidentified Vintage Port #4: This bottle is clearly different from the preceding five; this is hand-blown and consequently has a slightly irregular shape. Here there is no available information at all; although the cork was in reasonable condition in part, where the shipper's stamp once was it is quite degraded. The wine itself is another very pale example, with an orange golden hue, but here it is likely that this is appropriate; the bottle and the wine are both in keeping with a 19th Century origin. The nose is dominated by volatile acidity which I fail to get past. On the palate, though, there are some characteristics of note. It is certainly dried out, with unusual organic note of green vegetation with an oatmealy, almond biscuit character. The volatility has a presence too. Interesting, but not something I would choose to drink. Giving points seems particularly inappropriate here, but I have done so, based on pleasure derived, and to place the wine in the context of the tasting. 13.5/20
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