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Vintage Port 2003

The 2003 vintage in Europe is beginning to show it's true colours. It was a hot, atypical vintage, and whereas the wines of many regions have in my opinion suffered as a result, the Douro seems to have enjoyed the bake. There has been universal declaration of the 2003 vintage by the major Port houses, the first such declaration since 2000. And having tasted many of the wines, it's plain that this is a great vintage. The Douro is quite used to baking temperatures, and 2003 saw the occasional dousing of rain which must also have helped in the development of the wines, which show masses of ripe tannin, a plush depth of rich but sometimes quite aromatic, floral fruit, together with firm acidity. And this last point is all important; it's the acidity that is missing in many other European wines this year.

The year started with an early budbreak, which followed on from a very wet winter. Flowering occurred in May, and then came the heat, throughout June and July. But this was tempered by the aforementioned rain on June 28th and 29th, and then July 15th. And when a sweltering heatwave hung over the Douro in August once again rain, falling on the 27th and 28th, saved the vines from damaging stress. Harvesting began in early September, and by the time the weather turned at the very back end of the month, all the top wines were already bubbling away in vat. Temperature control of fermentation was essential, however, especially for wineries receiving fruit late in the day after it had been warmed by the Douro sun. Nevertheless, the vintage was a uniform success, although somewhat smaller (about 30%) than 2000.

At the top end, the wines show remarkable freshness of fruit despite the heat. None that I have tasted show signs of having been baked. There are powerful tannins, but this is always the case with young Vintage Port. But the tannins are ripe, firm yet voluptuous. Classic iron fist in a velvet glove of seductive fruit quality. The firm acidity is also very noticeable, and all the more remarkable taking into account the characteristics of the vintage. These wines will make great old bones indeed. (27/5/05)

Vintage Port 2003 - Tasting Notes

Tasted in May 2005. Click to locate stockists.

Gould Campbell Vintage Port 2003: Open nose. Characterful. Exotic spices noted. Open, accessible fruit on the palate. Good, firm structure. This is a lovely, very open style. But there are still masses of tannin. Very good dark fruit finish. More accessible than many now, but has very good potential for the cellar. 17+/20

Quarles Harris Vintage Port 2003: Intense, exotic, spicy, smoky. A more focussed nose than the Gould Campbell. Although somewhat softer fruit on the palate. But there is structure in spades. Seductively textured, with a seam of ripe, powerful tannins. Raw, grippy structure particularly evident on the finish. Greater depth on the palate. Very good potential again. 17.5+/20

Smith Woodhouse Vintage Port 2003: A step back now. A little less expressive. Some dark, spicy fruits. Rounded. More integrated. Very ripe, seamless, pure fruit profile on the palate. But masses of tannin. Not quite the quality of the Gould Campbell, but close. Good potential. 17+/20

Quinta do Roriz Vintage Port 2003: A single quinta, the most recent addition to the Symington portfolio. Mineral character on the nose. Great depth of fruit. Very pure, elegant, expressive. A wealth of fruit on the palate, too, with very ripe tannins. This has quite some finesse. Pure, seamless, high quality. Very good potential. 17.5+/20

Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port 2003: Super ripe, perfumed nose here. Feminine and elegant. Seamless, and again a great depth of fresh fruit. Very expressive. Beneath the fruit hides the firm, tannic structure. Great, precise finish. This is simply super - another great vintage from Vesuvio. 18+/20

Warre's Vintage Port 2003: An exotic nose. Spiced fruit. Perfumed. Open, expressive. This is very impressive. Beautiful purity on the palate. Very stylish, with lovely ripe structure and exotic, spicy fruit. It's very well integrated. The tannins have a paradoxical brutal and yet velvety presence. This is excellent. 18.5+/20

Dow's Vintage Port 2003: Refined. Elegant. This has great style. Chocolate and smoke. Damsons. This has great purity. Beautiful weight and texture. Stunning finesse here. Wonderful balance. Superb, ripe tannins coated in a seamless layer of fruit. Great potential. Possibly wine of the vintage. 19+/20

Graham's Vintage Port 2003: Dark chocolate. More masculine in style here. Smooth, great appeal. Seamless. Spice-laden, grippy structure. This is superb. Approachable and seductive, and a bit of a crowd-pleaser at present. Should be brilliant with time, and another contender for wine of the vintage. 19+/20

Croft Vintage Port 2003: Feminine, slightly sweet character on the nose, black fruits. Lovely presence of fruit. Integrated ripe tannins, but fairly light in terms of substance and concentration compared to the preceding wines. But a lovely fruit profile. 16.5+/20

Skeffington Vintage Port 2003: Beetroot fruit on the nose. Fairly simple character. Light palate. Lacks concentration and texture. Firm acids. There is a good presence of tannins, although they are a little raw and obvious. Lacks star quality that can be found in this vintage. Will be for earlier drinking I think. 16+/20

Delaforce Vintage Port 2003: More colour here, although again a spicy, beetroot, acidic-fruit nose. Soft, with a plumper texture. Ripe tannins, soft and approachable. Unchallenging acidity. Good approachability now. Again though, it lacks the concentration of the vintage. Good. 16.5+/20

Taylor's Vintage Port 2003: Lovely nose, with a typical Taylor's feminine, elegant style, alongside dark fruits and beetroot notes. Concentration here, but with finesse. A slightly raw edge to the tannins, but with good firm acids, and a feminine fruit style. Has the style, and the structure to go the distance. Good potential. 18+/20

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