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Twenty Years On: The 1983 Vintage
Vintage conditions were very good in many winemaking regions of the world during 1983. The wines of Bordeaux have never received the acclaim of those from the 1982 vintage, but many have been more affordable for that. Many critics accept that the Margaux communes in fact produced better wines than they had done the previous year, and in the past these have been worth seeking out. Nevertheless, at this stage in their lives it is unlikely that any will appear at bargain prices! Read my Bordeaux 1983 blind tasting for more on the vintage in this region.
Elsewhere in France, the northern Rhône fared very well in 1983, Hermitage leading the way, with good Côte-Rôtie and Crozes-Hermitage also. The southern Rhône produced good wines but not up to the standard in the north. Some good red and white Burgundy was made, although many parts of the region suffered with rot, stringent selection was vital, and as always approach these wines with caution - many are best avoided. In Burgundy quality was very patchy, with the reds ranging from excellent right down to poor, and more universal disappointment with the white wines. In the rest of Europe, Germany enjoyed a great vintage, and wines of Spätlese quality and above are drinking well and many will still keep. Champagne enjoyed a good vintage although many are now past their best. Many good and age worthy Ports were also bottled (see my Vintage Port 1983 tasting for more on this), and in contrast to Champagne these are drinking well now and many will continue to improve.
In the New World, the 1983 vintage failed to produce more than a few outstanding successes. In Australia, New South Wales produced arguably the best wines, with Hunter Valley Semillon leading the pack. The Californians lacked elegance. Other New World countries which today produce some world class wines were of much less interest two decades ago. (23/4/03)
The 1983 Vintage - Tasting Notes
Tasted in April 2003. Click
to locate
stockists:
Lanson Brut Champagne 1983:
I can't call this 'Gold Label' because back in the early 1980s the labels were
red! A good colour that doesn't cause any great concern. Still quite a good bead.
The nose is bready, doughy, with some typical green apple aromas from
blocked malolactic fermentation which give a big clue as
to the identity of the producer. There's also some evidence of oxidation on the nose, which
is matched on the palate, which has a touch of sweetness. Still has good acidity and is
certainly drinkable. 15.5/20
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Chateau L'Enclos (Pomerol) 1983:
A mahogany-tinged wine, which is densely coloured. An interesting nose, which has
wood-spice and grassy, garden mint notes. Full, somewhat fat, a little oily even,
on the palate. Good sweet fruit, a slightly burnt note, and some farmyard notes.
A full, rich and creamy texture so typical of
Pomerol develops after a little while in the glass. 17/20
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Clos Rene (Pomerol) 1983:
This wine has a brighter, more mature colour. There is a fresher, more youthful nose,
which is in keeping with this finding, with aromas of blackcurrant fruit and volcanic
minerals. On the palate it displays the fat richness one might expect. The mouthfeel is
very dry, with some tannins still showing on the finish. Burnt fruit with a mineral edge.
Impressive stuff which has plenty of life left in it. 17+/20
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Chateau Rauzan-Ségla
(Margaux) 1983:
A dark, red-brown colour here, which is very dense. Rich and impressive fruit on
the nose, which precedes a wonderful palate. It is richly textured, still with a
touch of grip, but with a soft, silky character. Maturing roasted fruit.
Beautifully structured and put together, with perfectly integrated acidity. This
is brilliant. 18.5/20
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Chateau Pichon-Lalande
(Pauillac) 1983: Another darkly coloured wine. A wonderful nose, which is intense and powerful, inviting
one to taste. Aromas of dark fruit and minerals, with chocolate, mocha and even a touch
of toffee. Powerful, rich and sweetly textured on the palate, but still with fine, crisp,
mineral-edged fruit. Again, wonderfully balanced acidity. Fantastic stuff. 18.5/20
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Chateau Coutet (Barsac) 1983:
Sampled from two half bottles, both with a lovely rich golden colour. The first showed
rich botrytis on the nose, and a powerful, sweet palate. Good fruit acids. Notes of
elderflower and acacia. This is the lighter of the two bottles, and it is very
good. The second is better, showing even greater richness and power. Fuller and
richer on the palate, more fat and weighty. Also has lovely, balancing acidity.
This is lovely stuff. 18/20
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Jasmin Côte-Rôtie 1983:
The paler of the two northern Rhônes tasted here. An interesting nose,
with aromas of cherry-flavoured medicine, cloves and other spices, and a touch of wood.
Richness and good texture on the palate, but quite elegant and not a lot of weight.
More of the cloves character noted on the nose, and it still has some good fruit.
Rich, rounded finish. 17.5/20
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Guy de Barjac Cornas 1983:
This is a much denser colour, a bright and vibrant red. Quite chemical on the nose, which
is full and spicy, but with a strong vein of acetone volatility. The palate is very full,
rich and sweet. Amazingly it still has quite a youthful structure, a characteristic often
ascribed to the appellation. Ripe tannins are still showing up, especially on the finish,
with correct acidity. The volatility also shows up through the palate. There's a touch
of power here, and bags of texture. Delicious. Approachable now, although it still politely
requests further time in the cellar. 17/20
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Mas de Daumas Gassac (Vin de Pays de l'Herault) 1983:
A dark, red-mahogany coloured wine. A quite intense nose, rich with sweet,
burnt, smoky fruit. Delightfully balanced and appropriate on the palate, which
still has plenty of fruit and brilliantly fresh acidity. Meaty, chewy edge to
the texture. This has great fluidity and considerable elegance on the palate. 18/20
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Grans-Fassian Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Auslese 1983:
This wine has a very good colour, a fresh, pale yellow-golden hue. There are
classic Riesling aromas on the nose, which is very fresh, redolent with citrus
fruits and minerals. The nose is fresh and ripe, with no hint of sweetness, and
suggests Alsace more than Germany, but the palate quickly changes this
impression. It is very sweet and rich, creamily textured, but with mineral and
floral flavours and a fine, balanced acidity. This is intense, impressive stuff. 17/20
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