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Ten Years On: The 1993 Vintage
After the washout that was 1992, and the frostbitten vintage of 1991, the Bordelais were looking for an improvement in 1993. It wasn't to be - the vintage saw record-breaking rainfall during he harvest month of September, dashing any hopes that this might be a great vintage after what had been a very hot summer. The best producers, however, made some good wine. In Burgundy, things were different. The summer was dogged by rain but the weather was always warm, so there were some problems with oidium and mildew. August, however, was very dry, to the point where vines on the poorest soils suffered dehydration stress with blocked maturation of the grapes and thickening of the skins. A little rain in September solved this potential problem. There followed a harvest which was largely successful - more for reds than whites - despite the continuation of sporadic rainfall.
Nowhere else in France faired any better than Burgundy. The northern Rhône was a washout, the southern Rhône better but irregular. Only the best producers in Champagne made wines worthy of purchase. In the rest of Europe, the most significant contribution was from Germany, which enjoyed another fine vintage - an event which became increasingly common through the 1990s. In Australia the vintage resembled Bordeaux to some extent, with record rainfall in South Australia. Nevertheless there were some individual success stories. California didn't see a great vintage with weather again not in their favour.
The following notes are culled from two tastings, the second of which was a tasting dinner hosted by myself. In the first the wines were tasted blind, this rule was only partically followed over dinner. The notes below are as written at the time, and the only wine not included was the 1993 Weinert Gran Vino, as it was corked. (17/12/03).
The 1993 Vintage - Tasting Notes
Tasted in December 2003. Click
to locate stockists.
Gosset Grand Millésime 1993: The first, and thankfully the only,
worry of the evening as the first bottle turned out to be quite dead
through the midpalate. Fortunately another bottle was to hand just
inside the cellar door - the perfect temperature as well. Subsequently
little opportunity for me to make a tasting note! Good colour and sparse
bead. Elegant, maturing nose. Fine, integrated palate - no prominent
acidity here - and good flavour. 17.5/20
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Trimbach Cuvée Frédéric Emile Riesling 1993: A pale colour: Intense
nose, with lime, honey and steel. Fresh, full bodied, a touch alcoholic, but
nicely structured, with a spice and steel edge to a grippy palate. Intense,
quite youthful floral-edged flavours. This has much better grip and acidity than
my last tasting which seemed unbalanced - perhaps that was just an awkward stage?
17.5+/20
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Chateau Pichon-Lalande
(Pauillac) 1993: This has much more colour than the last wine. A
lovely nose - pencil lead, cedar and spice-edged black fruits. Very dry on the
palate, very savoury, a wonderful foil for the food. Aromatic. Full, elegant
rather than opulent or creamy, with integrated tannins. Very classic. 16.5/20
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Domaine de Trevallon (Coteaux d'Aix en Provence Les Baux) 1993:
A densely hued wine. An interesting nose, with notes of beetroot,
pickling spices, and red fruits with a sweet edge. Impressive palate -
very fresh with its bright notes of herbs and red fruits, cut through
with correct acidity. In the background there are more complex organic
notes, like compost. Lovely. 17/20
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Domaine Tempier Bandol Migoua 1993:
Another deeply coloured wine. A challenging nose for some here, but I find it
fascinating. Very organic aromas, of compost and well-hung meat, as well as a
metallic, iron-filings note. In a word, stinky. The palate continues in the same
vein - obvious mature complexity, with more organic character. Still grippy,
although the tannins have just about all gone, still fresh and very much alive.
This is classy stuff. 17/20
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Domaine Santa Duc Gigondas Prestige des Haut Garrigues 1993:
Another dark wine, and an impressive nose. Quite Port-like, slightly
raisiny, with still a little toffee oak apparent. A mature, organic edge
here as well. Good structure and balance on the palate. Sweet, burnt,
slightly hard, dark fruits, with notes of home-made treacle toffee.
Lovely. 17/20
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Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde
1993: Good depth of colour here, but showing more brown maturity than some
other wines. Mature fruit on the nose too, quite stylish, with a touch of iron.
Nicely balanced on the palate, with some leather and vegetal aspects to the
fruit. Finesse and maturity combined (an impressive effort for this appellation
in this vintage). 16/20
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Domaine
Huet Vouvray Haut Lieu Moelleux Première Trie 1993: Paler than the Tokay,
obviously, but still a very rich colour for the Loire. The nose has
honeycomb, smoke, butter, bay, and stony minerals. On the palate there
are piles of fresh acidity carrying forth a raft of intense, minerally, slightly
honeyed fruit with notes of bottle age. Lovely intensity and acidity. This is
brilliant. Needs another five to eight years at least. 18.5+/20
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Von Simmern Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Kabinett (Rheingau) 1993:
A pale golden wine. Obvious Riesling on the nose - plenty of honeyed
lime fruit, with a vibrant, fresh, floral character as well. Some stony,
earthy richness too. There are giveaway petrol elements on the palate,
and it has lovely texture and weight - seems to be German, and of
Spätlese level (and despite the Kabinett designation it probably is).
Full and rich, and balanced. On the finish it fans out to give complex
bread and honey notes. Delicious stuff. 18/20
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Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöle Riesling Kabinett (Nahe) 1993:
A slightly paler golden wine. A definite resemblance to the first wine -
Riesling again. This is more austere though, less elegantly aromatic, although
there is plenty of fruit. The same on the palate - lots of vibrant, fresh fruit
and texture, more full and structured than the first wine. The finish fans out
like the first wine, but here offering notes of meal and oat. 18/20
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Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett (Mosel) 1993:
A similarly hued wine, although different on the nose - more restraint and
finesse. Elegant in fact. Nevertheless, on the palate it is big, rich and
mouth-filling. This doesn't distract from amazing finesse and precision to be
found here though. Rich, again more Spätlese than anything else, but with fine
acidity. Notes of orange peel on the finish. 18/20
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Disznókö Tokáji Aszú 4 Puttonyos 1993: A fairly
typical burnished orange-gold colour. A lovely nose, with evident
richness. Dark, traditional thick-cut marmalade, and botrytis - but just
a trace, despite the richness. On the palate it has a rich reasonably
weighty texture and totally correct acidity. Good sweetness here but not
at all unctuous or oily. Fresh and lively would be more apt descriptors. 17/20
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Chateau Musar (Bekaa Valley) 1993:
Paler than the other wines here. A classic nose, definitely Musar, with
roasted-stewed-burnt fruit, cloves, and a lovely, sweet, rounded edge. On the
palate there is a full, sweet, rounded mouthfeel, with a polyphenol influenced
character, but it has the fruit and structure to carry this. Still has some grip
- a trace of tannin still remains - and there is plenty of acidity. 17.5/20
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Valentin Bianchi Elsa's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza)
1993: A very densely coloured wine. Great nose - hints of chocolate, dark
fruits and roasted herbs, and another wine that displays notes of
treacle toffee. The palate has a rich depth of fruit and firm acidity.
There is a smoky, burnt, slightly gamey complexity to it all. Very
impressive fruit, texture and even a little tannin despite the age of
this wine. 17/20
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Errazuriz Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve (Aconcagua) 1993: Deep
colour, showing just a little age at the orange-pink rim. What an unusual nose
though - blackcurrant pastilles, beetroot and herbs, green olive and green
pepper notes. The palate has similar intensely sweet blackcurrant pastille
flavour, with some texture and appropriate acidity. Simple and one dimensional,
although lasting well (that green pepper note was a big clue as it marred many
early Chilean attempts - Chilean winemaking has come on a lot in the past
decade, and there are much more impressive wines available from more recent
vintages). 14/20
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Lindemans Pyrus (Coonawarra, SA) 1993: A blend
of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. An ink-dark wine,
almost purple. Mint and eucalyptus on the nose, very clean, a little
stylish. Clearly we have moved to Australia. Massive palate - loaded
with sweet ripe fruit, and a full, rounded texture. Great structure
underneath it, with plenty of fresh acidity. Very good wine but not
really my style. 17/20
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Lindemans St George (Coonawarra, SA) 1993: The
flagship wine, a 100% single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. Another
densely coloured wine, with a dark, earthy hue. Big blackcurrant fruit
on the nose, with a minty, dark chocolate edge. Another huge and
impressive palate here - brawny, with plenty of sweet ripe tannins for
structure, and minty blackcurrant fruit. Good character on the finish. 17/20
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Lindemans Limestone Ridge (Coonawarra, SA) 1993:
A blend of Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon. A dark, purple-black wine. What a
nose - an amazing wealth of mint, toffee, butterscotch and coconut, with
blackcurrant fruit. Big, rich, sweet palate, with a wealth of black and
red fruits, and still plenty of structure. This still has plenty of
potential for future development. 17+/20
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Tyrell's Vat 9 Shiraz (Hunter Valley, NSW) 1993: What a fascinating
nose - it smells of old boots, with leather, marmite and rubber. Moderately rich
palate with some fruit. The structure is still there though - in fact it is
still a little austere. There are firm, bright acids, red fruits and a streak of
tannin. This is characterful and very enjoyable (much more interesting than my
last tasting almost three years ago when the oak and acidity both seemed too
prominent). 18/20
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Peter Lehmann Stonewell Shiraz (Barossa Valley, SA) 1993: A very dark, youthful
hue. Sweet, black cherry fruit on the nose, and alongside that sweet, vanillin,
toffee-liquorice aromas. On the palate it is similarly full and sweet, but with
good underlying structure. There is a wealth of creamy, vanillin, sweet fruit
but overall it has a dry, full flavoured palate. Still quite a bit of brawny
tannin in fact, with correct acidity. 17+/20
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Yalumba Octavius Old Vines Shiraz (Barossa Valley, SA) 1993: A
slightly more glossy appearance here, with more of a black-purple hue. Intensely
dark fruits with sweet coconut on the nose. Full, rich a touch more balance,
elegance and less brawn than the Stonewell, with some sweet, black fruits and
some similarly sweet, ripe tannins at the finish. Some more savoury notes of
burnt coffee too. 17.5+/20
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