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Ten Years On: The 1991 Vintage

Following almost universal success in 1990, it is only natural that there would be many relative disappointments in 1991. Some regions, however, produced fabulous wines, exceeding the quality of the previous vintage. Without doubt the greatest successes were in California, the Northern Rhone and Iberia , but elsewhere some exceedingly good wines were made also.

The vintage was a difficult one for Bordeaux. A spring frost damaged the developing buds of many vines. As the vines recovered they threw out new buds, but as these were developing much later then usual this resulted in a delayed harvest - picking started well into September for the Merlot, and October for the Cabernet. Weather is an important factor with such a delay, and late September saw heavy rainfall. Many top estates declassified their entire crop. Those wines that were made are, generalising, made for early drinking.

In Burgundy there was also frost, with prolonged flowering caused by a generally cold spring, with much coulure and millerandage. A warm summer helped to bring along the development of the fruit. There was trouble with the odd hail-storm, but otherwise things progressed well until a late-September harvest. Not a great vintage, although many good red wines were produced. In the Rhone, as mentioned above, the conditions were excellent - see my Northern Rhone 1991 blind tasting for more on this. Germany, Spain and Portugal all enjoyed a good vintage, with a number of Port houses choosing to declare, although a couple held out for the 1992 vintage instead.

Further afield California was also a success, as were parts of Australia. (4/12/01).

The 1991 Vintage - Tasting Notes

Tasted in December 2001. Click to locate stockists:

Bordeaux

Chateau Haut-Marbuzet (St Estèphe) 1991: A lovely mahogany red colour here. Loads of fruit on the nose, despite this wines age, with some notes of coffee. Spicy fruitcake nuances suggest a dominance of Merlot. Quite elegantly textured on the palate, fairly sharp and bright, with somewhat prominent acidity. There's a weakness in the structure which belies the inadequacies of the 1991 vintage in Bordeaux. 15/20

Chateau Pichon-Lalande (Pauillac) 1991: Here's a beautifully coloured dark, mahogany red wine, with a nose redolent of smoke, cedar, pencil-lead - a classic Pauillac nose. The palate is elegant and structured, with wonderful tannins, balanced acidity, and superbly restrained berry fruit. This is brilliant stuff, with great quality and character of fruit. 18/20

Rhône

Yvonne Verset Cornas 1991: A dark purple wine, with just a shade of mahogany. The nose is medicinal, with charcoal, rose petals and a thin vein of fruit. Very elegant on entry, with acidic raspberry fruit and more of those charcoal and medicinal notes. The tannins are quite sharp, dry, somewhat hard. A clean finish with some power. This is classic Cornas. Yvonne is the wife of Noel Verset, and the fruit was sourced from vineyards belonging to Noel's brother. 17.5/20

Robert Michel Cornas "La Geynale" 1991: A good burnt-red, slightly mahogany colour. Restrained, slightly stony fruit on the nose, with some suggestion of toffee. The palate is more classic, however, with hard, meaty flavours, smoking charcoal and some nice fruit. The tannins are still quite firm and dry, and there is peppery acidity. 17/20

Languedoc

Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc (Vin de Pays de l'Herault) 1991: An impressive golden colour, but in a dry wine of this age one wonders about the possibility of oxidation with such a hue. Indeed, the nose has aromas of apple pie and toffee, with notes of madeirisation/oxidation. Fairly flat and inexpressive on entry, with cinder toffee oxidative notes, with a slightly bitter finish. Drinkable, interesting, but falling apart. 15.5/20

Mas de Daumas Gassac (Vin de Pays de l'Herault) 1991: This wine has a deep red purple colour. A touch austere on the nose, with plenty of black fruits with a youthful edge. The palate follows a similar line, although it seems somewhat austere and withdrawn. There is some stylish fruit hidden in the wings. This is a serious, styled wine, which needs a good few years to come round yet. 17/20

Lebanon

Chateau Musar (Bekaa Valley) 1991: A pale mahogany colour, with a classically unusual nose, with leather, macerated berry fruit and a good lick of volatile acidity. This is classic Musar, easily identifiable on the nose. The palate has sweet, leathery fruit, with animal and farmyard nuances, and that VA is still quite evident. Tannins are nicely integrated. There's a fantastic sweet and spicy intensity of smooth fruit on the finish. Drinking beautifully. 18+/20

Australia

Orlando Lawson's Padthaway Shiraz 1991: This is the most richly coloured wine in this flight. The nose is loaded with pastille and cassis fruit, with layers of menthol and oak. The palate follows up with lush and spicy fruit, with peppery acidity, and soft, easy tannins. More spice on the finish. This is a big, powerful and impressive Australian Shiraz. 16/20

California

Ridge Vineyards Lytton Springs 1991: This is denser and more purple than the previous three wines. Sweet coconut and toffee on the nose, with a wealth of black fruit. More sweet and round fruit on the palate, with a fine, almost elegant stance, despite the jammy edge to the fruit which quickly develops through the midpalate. It builds to a spicy and powerful finish, where the tannins are a little more apparent. 16/20

Ridge Vineyards Geyserville 1991: This wine has a similar dark and dense purple colour. Similar character on the nose also, with the aromas of sweet oak and a rich vein of black fruit. Likewise, the palate is a combination of spicy, vanillin oak and lots of sweet, lovely fruit. 16/20

Shafer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 1991: A dark red-purple colour. Again, this wine has lots of smoky fruit gum aromas. On the palate there are ripe, structural tannins. Plenty of fruit, with a sweet and smoky character but also with a degree of elegance. Great balanced acidity. This is very impressive, structured stuff. 18/20

Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Fay Cabernet Sauvignon 1991: A great purple colour with tawny nuances here. The nose, however, seems very youthful, with sweet blackcurrant fruit gum notes, coffee, toffee and smoke. The palate is rich and round, full of rich cassis and pastille fruit. Good supple tannins and balanced acidity. This is extremely good. 17.5+/20