Chateau Angélus (St Emilion) 1998: Harvest began on September 27th and lasted a week. This wine has 66% Merlot and 34% Cabernet Franc although there is also a little Cabernet Sauvignon planted here. Between three and four weeks maceration. A dense colour. Roasted nuts and dark fruits on the nose. Great density when tasted, appealing concentration, and still has plenty of tannic structure at present. A medley of red and dark fruits on the palate, supple tannins and correct acidity. A great presence on the palate, and a good clean finish. 18+/20

Chateau Beausejour (St Emilion) 1998: This property lies adjacent to Angelus. The vineyards are planted with Merlot 70%, Cabernet Franc 20%, Cabernet Sauvignon 10%. Low yields here, 38hl/ha, up to five weeks maceration. Another dense hue. The nose is more straightforward, although packed with fruit and very vibrant. Good structure on the palate, plentiful tannin, with balanced acidity and some texture. Not as full or as impressive as some other wines but nevertheless very good. 16/20

Chateau Beau-Séjour-Bécot (St Emilion) 1998: Juliette Bécot talked us through the wine. The vineyards are planted with Merlot 70%, Cabernet Franc 24%, Cabernet Sauvignon 6%. There were some roasted grapes due to inappropriate leaf-thinning in July. Macerated for thirty days, malolactic in barrel. A very dark, opaque wine. The nose has elegant, very pure, fresh fruit. The palate is rich, velvety and very textured. Beneath this lies structure and acidity. The fruit on the palate shows a slightly bitter, confected edge, although I doubt this will persist. There is good potential here, but it needs five years at least in the cellar. 17+/20

Chateau Belair (St Emilion) 1998: A close neighbour to Beau-Sejour Becot. The vineyards are planted with Merlot 80%, and Cabernet Franc 20%. A lighter, less dense colour here. The nose is more open, with some upfront fruit and a confected edge. It doesn't immediately appeal. The palate is lighter than many other wines here, and has less of everything - tannin, body and structure. There is elegance though - a plus point. Red fruits complete the picture. Good at best. 15.5/20

Chateau Canon (St Emilion) 1998: Purchased by Chanel in 1996; their man on the ground John Kolasa talked us through the wine. An 18 ha site, with ongoing replanting. The vineyards have Merlot 75%, and Cabernet Franc 20%. The grand vin included 46% of the crop. Back to the densely coloured wines here. Dark, plum fruits on the nose, with roasted nuts again. A medium bodied palate, with an appealing velvety touch. Rounded and rich. A good tannic structure behind it, with firm acidity. This is lovely. Great potential. 17+/20

Chateau Figeac (St Emilion) 1998: Situated on gravel close to Pomerol, hence an encépagement different to the other estates; Merlot 30%, Cabernet Franc 35%, Cabernet Sauvignon 35%. Lower yields this year, 31 hl/ha. A fairly dense colour here. A superbly full nose. Dark roasted plums, and a fabulous perfume. Some oak too. Elegance and style are plainly evident on the palate. There is not quite the plumpness and the velvet texture of the other wines - because the blend here is heavy on Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon, with less Merlot, I suspect. But there is body, balanced tannin and acids, and good concentration. Black fruits and a violet perfume. And a good length. One of the best wines here. 18+/20

Clos Fourtet (St Emilion) 1998: Estate owner Philippe Cuvelier talked us through the wine. The vineyards are planted with Merlot 85%, Cabernet Franc 5%, Cabernet Sauvignon 10%. The blend this year included no Cabernet Franc. Macerated for 28 days, fermented in stainless steel, malolactic in barrel. A dense, very opaque wine. A fabulous, open nose, packed with intense fruit. The palate is wonderful - balanced, yet with velvety texture, good concentration and a full flavour, of brambly fruit and smoke. Textured, with a tannic backbone, and a good length. Very impressive. 17.5+/20

Chateau La Gaffelière (St Emilion) 1998: An estate that has remained family owned for longer than any other in St Emilion. The vineyards are planted with Merlot 65%, Cabernet Franc 30%, Cabernet Sauvignon 5%. Fermented in stainless steel, malolactic in barrel. A moderate intensity of hue. A classic nose, with ripe, dark fruits and a perfumed, violet edge. Elegant and balanced on the palate, with a lovely backbone of tannins which sink behind the deep texture. Full, with some concentration. A good, somewhat tannic, length. 16/20

Chateau Magdelaine (St Emilion) 1998: This is a small estate, with just 10.5 ha of vines encircling the chateau. These are Merlot 90% and Cabernet Franc 10%, although this year had less Cabernet Franc in the blend. A moderate density of colour, with sweet, plump, black fruits and some oak. A beautiful texture on the palate, with a velvet edge. It is firm and balanced, with fine tannins and great, fresh acidity. Concentrated, with violet and liquorice flavour. Straightforward but complexity may come with time. 16.5/20

Chateau Pavie (St Emilion) 1998: My first taste of post-Valette Pavie - Gérard Perse took control here in March 1998. Merlot 70%, Cabernet Franc 20%, Cabernet Sauvignon 10%. Yields are a very low 25 hl/ha. A dark, inky and yet vibrant colour. Very concentrated, with dark fruits on the nose. The palate is dense, concentrated, and rich. There is plenty of extract and texture here, not surprising in view of the batonnage employed. The fruit is rich and lovely, the tannins ripe and supple. Toffee and liquorice notes. The most dark, concentrated and textured wine here, but texture is not everything. 17.5/20

Chateau Trottevielle (St Emilion) 1998: Philippe Castéja talked us through the wine. Another small site, just 10 ha, situated on very shallow soils - just 35 cm above base rock. Planted with Merlot 50%, Cabernet Franc 45%, Cabernet Sauvignon 5% although Merlot is over-represented in the 1998 blend. A moderate density of hue. Red fruits, smoke and cashew nuts on the nose. Very fresh, with red fruits, yet still with a velvet edge to the texture. It is lighter than the other wines, but has elegance and balance on its side, and for that I like it. Soft, supple tannins, and correct acidity. Stylish. 16/20

Chateau Cheval Blanc (St Emilion) 1998: The leading estate, together with Ausone. Situated on the plateau across the road from Conseillante and Vieux Chateau Certan, so no surprise that this stands apart from other St Emilion estates. There is Cabernet Franc and Merlot in an approximately 60:40 ratio, but also a little Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon here. A moderate density of hue; certainly not the darkest wine (I think that accolade fell to Pavie). The nose is stunning. It has style and elegance in abundance, with an exotic roasted cashew nut and dark fruit character, laid over some new oak. A fabulous palate, surprisingly approachable, but I think this is because it is so elegant and balanced. There are rich, rounded, dark fruits, with mineral notes. Ripe, supple tannins underpin it all. For me, this is undoubtedly the top wine of the tasting. Brilliant. 18.5+/20